Corrosion Block

[donjiskra]

Corrosion Block
This is a new product to me, so I looked it up:
http://www.nocorrosion.com/how-corro...trol-works.htm
Sounds good and I like the fact that it doesn't leave a "gummy residue" unlike Corrosion X
A 12oz spray can costs $15.00 and a 6oz is $7.00

Mailing Address:

Midwest Corrosion Products
2813 193rd Street
Lansing, IL 60438

[crash-rc]

Don, did you ever get any of the Corrosion Blockand if so have you tried it. I called and talked to them on the phone just the other day and the gentleman that I talked to was very helpfull and ansewered all my questions. The stuff won't stain clothing and things like Corrosion X does and no oily mess. The stuff in the spray can foams when it comes out and I was told it will even remove rust stains from boat carpet. The smaller pump can doesn't foam and sounded like it would work better as you could pump it into a jar then soak ESCs and receiver boards. I was pretty much garanteed that it would keep you from frying your ESC. Come March 1 I am going to get the small can of the stuff

[donjiskra]

No I haven't. It sounds very interesting. Let us know.

[jimsp]

I bought the 4oz size of Corrosion Block to give it a try on protecting by ESC’s from water. It has a pump spray with a thin applicator tube which seemed ideal for applying small amounts of this stuff exactly where you want it. Corrosion Block is a thin oily like substance.

For my test I used a GWS brushless ESC that I knew experience that water would stop it from working but not destroy the ESC. I didn’t take off the heat shrink but applied the Corrosion Block from both ends of the ESC. The applicator tube allowed me to get under the heat shrink and assure the CB got on both sides of the circuit. It wicked in fairly well with some of it coming out on the other side.

When I dunked the ESC in water the motor shuddered and eventually stopped. The same thing happened when I sprayed the ESC on the end that the motor wires came out. In either case a simple shake of the ESC restored it to normal operation. This convinced me that it wasn’t simply a case of the water reaching a spot that the CB hadn’t reached.

[Larry3215]

I dont know if Id give up on the stuff just yet.

I had some problems even with CorrosionX when I applied it the way you did. You would think that shooting it in the ends like that is good enough to cover the entire board but it often isnt.

Try pooring enough of that stuff into a small container to completely dunk the controller and work it for a while to be sure all the air bubbles are out.

I put mine in one way then turn them upside down and then sideways both ways then lay them flat both ways then take them out and put them back in the opposite way etc etc. I really give the stuff a chance to get into and under and around every possible nook and cranny and chip on the board. The oil needs time to soak into small spaces.

Remember, water is thinner than the corrosion block so it can penetrate into smaller spaces easier than the oil can. You need to work at it a bit and give it some time.

Of course, it still may not work as well as CorrosionX but I think you need to give it a better chance.

[crash-rc]

I agree with Larry on this one, I used the spray can of Corrosion X and the spray tube and sprayed the ESC really well from both ends. I Fried 3 ESC's doing it that way. I have since sprayed the can into a mayo jar and now soak ESC's and receivers for about 3 days turning and swishing the jar around when I think about it. Haven't fried and ESC since I started doing it this way. I am still going to order a can of Corrosion Block next week just to try it out and I will use the soak method

[kyleservicetech]

Originally Posted by donjiskra

Corrosion Block
This is a new product to me, so I looked it up:
http://www.nocorrosion.com/how-corro...trol-works.htm
Sounds good and I like the fact that it doesn't leave a "gummy residue" unlike Corrosion X
A 12oz spray can costs $15.00 and a 6oz is $7.00

Mailing Address:

Midwest Corrosion Products
2813 193rd Street
Lansing, IL 60438

Before I retired, the company I worked for had serious problems with moisture affecting the circuit boards of our high power circuit breakers that are usually installed outdoors.

After a lot of expensive testing, they went to a total encapsulation of the circuit board with a rubberized compound especially designed for this purpose.

To bad its not available to the common market, it was expensive though.

For those that are thinking of using silicon type caulking material. DO NOT!!!! THAT IS A NO NO!

This stuff has a noticeable smell as it cures. That smell is acetic acid or something like that, that will eat off the circuit board traces from your circuit board in a half year or so. (That little fact cost our company some $500,000 years ago, when one of our suppliers encapsulated relay coil windings. The stuff ate the insulation off of the magnet wire, and eventually killed the controls battery. We had to recall two years production.)

If the encapsulation material does not say on the container "suitable for electronic use" don't use it for your radio stuff.

[Larry3215]

Yeah, there is a special silicone that is intended to be used on electronics. It MUST say that on the label though. The stuff I saw was black.

Some people use epoxy too. There are special types just for conformal coating.

Castle Creations will conformal coat your esc for I think $7 if you send it in to them. You can also order new ones pre-coated if you order from them direct.

[kyleservicetech]

Originally Posted by Larry3215

Yeah, there is a special silicone that is intended to be used on electronics. It MUST say that on the label though. The stuff I saw was black.

Some people use epoxy too. There are special types just for conformal coating.

Castle Creations will conformal coat your esc for I think $7 if you send it in to them. You can also order new ones pre-coated if you order from them direct.

Yeah, we also used some black potting compound for toroid current transformers. But, that stuff cured rock hard after about 24 hours. I'd be reluctant to use it on electronics, it was designed for transformer type windings. (We bought it in two sets of 55 gallon drums!)

[jimsp]

Well I gave the Corrosion Block another try and it didn't work. As soon a the ESC was immersed in water the motor sputtered and stopped. When I took the ESC out of the water the motor started working again. This time I left the ESC in the Corrosion Block for 4 days inside a plastic bag. I turned the ESC over a few times and even squeezed the bag trying to force the CB into the ESC. The CB is very thin and must have totally covered the ESC.

[kyleservicetech]

Originally Posted by jimsp

Well I gave the Corrosion Block another try and it didn't work. As soon a the ESC was immersed in water the motor sputtered and stopped. When I took the ESC out of the water the motor started working again. This time I left the ESC in the Corrosion Block for 4 days inside a plastic bag. I turned the ESC over a few times and even squeezed the bag trying to force the CB into the ESC. The CB is very thin and must have totally covered the ESC.

Yeah, our company first tried using thick epoxy coatings on our circuit boards to prevent condensation from screwing it up. That epoxy still allowed moisture to get in.

The encapsulation we used was rather heavy, rather like 60 weight motor oil. But, leave a tiny pin hole in the encapsulation container, and the whole damned batch of encapsulation would leak out through that pinhole before the encapsulation cured, something that took about 24 hours. This encapsulation winds up covering the circuit board with about 3/8 inch of encapsulation.

I watched one of our test engineers pour water with a garden hose over that circuit board (6 by 13 inches) while it was powered up. The full force of that garden hose had absolutely no effect on the board. And, that board had live voltages of 215 volts DC in it!

You really have to be careful with this encapsulation stuff though. It won't let anything like water penetrate into the circuitry. And because of that, anything that was trapped inside the encapsulation, like solder flux will not be able to escape. Yep, we had issues, and had to replace about a hundred circuit boards when the vendor did not properly clean the circuit board before encapsulation. These danged contaminated circuit boards passed all factory tests, and took about a year to fail.

[Larry3215]

Originally Posted by jimsp

Well I gave the Corrosion Block another try and it didn't work. As soon a the ESC was immersed in water the motor sputtered and stopped. When I took the ESC out of the water the motor started working again. This time I left the ESC in the Corrosion Block for 4 days inside a plastic bag. I turned the ESC over a few times and even squeezed the bag trying to force the CB into the ESC. The CB is very thin and must have totally covered the ESC.

Thats too bad it didnt work. Would have been nice to have a less messy alternative to CorrosionX.

Thanks for keeping us posted!!

[texasclouds]

are you guys wanting to block corrosion or actually run under water?

[kyleservicetech]

Originally Posted by texasclouds

are you guys wanting to block corrosion or actually run under water?

My understanding is that they want the ESC to keep working if it gets hit by water spray during take off or landing in water, and to not be damaged in case of a "dunking"

[Modifier]

Used Tool dip back in the day of my electric boats and cars. Brushed on the dip stuff on the servo case seams and wire exits. a couple coatings usually did the trick. no more water glitches.
http://www.google.com/products/catal...wAA#ps-sellers

[texasclouds]

Originally Posted by kyleservicetech

My understanding is that they want the ESC to keep working if it gets hit by water spray during take off or landing in water, and to not be damaged in case of a "dunking"

I'd assume a product like this would only be suited for preventing damage, but not submersed operation. Water resistence not proofing.

[Larry3215]

The CorrosionX product actually does both. It stops corrosion and it allows esc's and rx's to actually keep working when submerged.

They also survive being under water while power is applied. That is what kills esc's and rx's. If you dunk an esc or rx in water it will be fine as long as no power is applied until after it dries out.

I should be clear and note that when water gets on the pins of the crystal it de-tunes the rx and you loose control. How ever, if it has been treated with CorrosionX, it will start working again as soon as the water drains off.

We were hoping to find a product that is less messy to use than CorrosionX. Its consistency is like 30 weight motor oil.

[texasclouds]

Originally Posted by Larry3215

We were hoping to find a product that is less messy to use than CorrosionX. Its consistency is like 30 weight motor oil.

For the thicker product, have you tried applying it warm/hot to flow better?

[crash-rc]

Corrosion X had a commercial where they actually treated the electronics of a 5" black and white TV then put it in an aquarium under water and watched the TV. On one of the forums there was someone who said that he seen this done in person.

[Larry3215]

I saw a CorrosionX commercial several years ago with a full size TV in a swimming pool. Cant find it now but here is the small TV in the aquarium.

[Bill G]

Originally Posted by kyleservicetech

Before I retired, the company I worked for had serious problems with moisture affecting the circuit boards of our high power circuit breakers that are usually installed outdoors.

After a lot of expensive testing, they went to a total encapsulation of the circuit board with a rubberized compound especially designed for this purpose.

To bad its not available to the common market, it was expensive though.

For those that are thinking of using silicon type caulking material. DO NOT!!!! THAT IS A NO NO!

This stuff has a noticeable smell as it cures. That smell is acetic acid or something like that, that will eat off the circuit board traces from your circuit board in a half year or so. (That little fact cost our company some $500,000 years ago, when one of our suppliers encapsulated relay coil windings. The stuff ate the insulation off of the magnet wire, and eventually killed the controls battery. We had to recall two years production.)

If the encapsulation material does not say on the container "suitable for electronic use" don't use it for your radio stuff.

Good point. I learned about WD40 removing insulation, when using it on a doorbell plunger coil. Freed it up and worked well, for one day. Probably a number of compounds that will dissolve wire varnish.