Tired of googleing

[flyyy]

New to electric but flew in the old days. Can you use blade connectors for battery to esc hook up? Is it normal for the last couple of batteries on the positive side of a 8 cell pack [series] to get hot enough to burn black dents in your wifes desk when you run a 28-26-1300 kv full throttle just to see how long the pack will last? Stuff was boiling out of last 2 batteries. Last but not the least. I have bought 7 different brands of esc's. Only 2 had any instructions and the escs have more beeps than the instructions so I'm not just real sure what modes are not set. Whats with the lack of directions. I got a hobbyking 40 amp besc that knows more songs than the Eagles. Anyone know what I mean?

[CHELLIE]

Welcome to Wattflyers you really need to get a Wattmeter and know what the limits are on your motor, esc and batteries, if using lipos, you never want to discharge them below 3 Volts per Cell , or you will destroy them, they are not like Ni Cads or NiMH batteries, its best not to use crimp on blade or bullet connectors, they will give you problems, solder bullet connections and deans are the best to use, anderson power poles are the best to use on battery connections, here is some info for you, hope it helps, Chellie

http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31071

http://www.powerwerx.com/anderson-powerpoles/

30 amp Andrewson power polls are all you need


http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...54#post6747271

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1043104


PS to save yourself from a lot of Headaches, only use Turnigy ESC, they are the best ESC for the Money, you can pay more for other ESC, but why I never had any trouble with them for Normal use, you cant beat them.

[CHELLIE]

for some great info on motors, esc and lipo set ups, look at Heads up Rc, Jeff has some great info with his motors as far as prop selection, esc selection and lipo selection for a Balanced power system.

http://www.headsuprc.com/servlet/the...lectric/Detail

I have used Jeffs motor Pages when setting up my own power system, so i dont over amp a motor, lipo or esc and burn it up, by not knowing any better. I have learned a lot on Jeffs Heads Up Rc Web Page, Jeff has a lot of great items too, he has the 3.5 mm solder on plugs that you need for the connections and deans and heat shrink tube, tell Jeff that Chellie sent you Hope that helps, Chellie

http://www.headsuprc.com/servlet/the...ors/Categories

http://www.headsuprc.com/servlet/the...ugs/Categories

[slipstick]

Blade connectors, bad. Extremely hot cells, very bad. Stuff boiling out of cells, super bad. Running motors full throttle while stationary with no cooling air flow, terrible idea. I've bought dozens of ESCs, all had instructions either in the packet or in the vendor's website.

Perhaps you're just not lucky at electrics .

Steve

[MaxAdventure]

In addition to what Chellie and slipstick said;

Cooking nickle batteries is asking them to explode. And I don't mean shooting fantastic flames like Chellie mentioned on LiPo (which if you'd had LiPo that got that hot, you would have already seen them start the desk on fire) but with shrapnel like a grenade. Nickle packs are wicked when they blow.

Checking your amp draw with a meter is the only way to test safely.

Try looking for a quality speed control like a castle creations, Jeti, Scorpion, Shulze, Kontronic and you'll get better instructions.

If using Google is that rough, you may want to stick with pre-packaged systems from your local hobby store where they can support the Greatplanes or EFlight setup and you won't have any questions whatsoever. These work great, good quality, and supports local business.

[MaxAdventure]

I went back and re-read all of your posts to date.

the two things that helped me get started in electric flight:

1- started with a known good combo motor+esc+prop+battery

so, look for something that is a complete package, what are the specifications on that set up, and copy it using the parts source you want. Match the motor volts and rpm/volt, match the ESC amp rating, match the prop, and match the recommended number of cells

2- wade through all the info on the net. Sure, there is a lot of garbage out there and it gets frustrating trying to pick something out good in your searches, but if you take a few key points, search those to understand better, then come back to other sources of info, it starts making sense.

The stuff from China: sounds like you already know the lesson of 'never ever ever back order'. also be aware there seems to be little thought customer support, once the sale is made you are on your own. The last big gotcha is quality control is very inconsistent, and often not there. Most of the stuff is copied good designs and reworked to be able to sell at a low price for mass sales. Mostly I think this consists of using lower quality material.

another Google chore for you - look for electric helper tools. there are a lot out there. (motor calcs, battery references, motor references, etc)

some I've bookmarked:
http://www.brantuas.com/ezcalc/dma1.asp
http://sim.tomsrc.com/page.php?2#op-map
http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27019
http://members.cox.net/moorman1/cg1.htm
http://adamone.rchomepage.com/
http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~atong/ (huge list of hobby pages categorized)

[flyyy]

Thanks to all. Here is the thing.
1.I have a amp watt meter and was watching it when the nimh pack got so hot and it was only pulling 12 amps on 20 amp esc.
b. I have a package unit and thats one that has no instructions for esc.
3. Turnigy has only 1 chart to stick program plush, sentry, and basic escs of all sizes [18 in all] thats where I get more beeps than the chart says.
4. I never back order but when placing order it says in stock and the stuff gets here and the main things I need is back ordered and it says they should be here in about 4 weeks. What do you do except never ever buy anything from them again.
5. I haven't been able to find anything on c rating on nimh batteries maybe they can't unload like lipo. I don't know..
6. Thanks to Steve but why are blades bad, and if you don't try the motor, esc, and batteries on the ground how do you know how long you can fly without landing to prevent draining lipos past 80%. I know you will say that the esc will prevent that, but thats what I'm not so sure of since not one esc has programmed like the instruction I have been able to hunt up on the web says.
7. My local hobby store is 140 mi. away.
8. The only thing I am real sure of is that maybe Steve is right in that I don't have much luck with electrics.

[Glacier Girl]

Flyy we're here to help. We call it "Paying it forward" We've all been in your shoes, and we were taught either by others, or in my case a lot of money spent learning the hard way.

Ok lets start with #1 On your list above.
Smoked the nimh pack. More then likely the pack was not up to the draw of the system. If you can provide us with the info on the pack we will be more then happy to check it out and advise you on it's use.

#1b, again tell us which one you got and where you got it, and we can more then likely provide you with the info on it. Thing you will find is these Chinese escs change their programming on a whim, and sometimes it's not the esc at fault but your tx, that isn't being recognized fully by the esc.

#3 Again as above in #1b.

#4 Welcome to internet ordering. Not like walking into the LHS and holding the item in your hand. Stock might have been available but in the time it took you to place the order, ten others beat you to the item. Usually if it's limited stock on something I don't order it, unless the site has the capability of telling me that the item is back ordered before sending the order. Be happy you got the other stuff you ordered, some places will hold the entire order until the back order is filled.

#5 lipo to nimh is like comparing an F-35 to a Curtis Jenny. Even with the few bad things with lipos, and most of them are owner induced, a lipo is worlds away better then the old nimhs. As for a C rating on nimhs, about the only place to find that kind of info is from battery suppliers, like CheapBatteryPacks.com

But again if you can provide the info whether it be the packs you have, or the use you wish to use them on, I'm pretty sure we can help you out.

#6 Blades have their place. But not in places where you are running amps. The current needs a good solid connection to flow through, which blades don't do very well. What happens is the poor connection usually starts an arcing condition, which builds a deposit on the blades. This raises the resistance in the connection, which means more work for the battery to feed the esc/motor. It finally gets to the point where either the battery gives up, or the connection gets so hot it fails.

#6 A Watt meter is the most important tool to have when flying electric. It can give you the specs you need in less then 10 seconds to determine your systems health. And using those specs you can also ball park how long your pack will fly the plane.

I say ball park, because nothing is constant. You could have an old pack that falls off quickly which could screw your calculations. You may have a power system that unloads in the air and reduces draw, which could lengthen your fly time.

#7 That's easy...........MOVE!!!! Best I can offer you there, is if you have a question, fire away on the forums. Someone is sure to have the answers for you.

#8 It's not you. It is mind boggling to wrap your senses around electric flying at first.
But take your time and hang in there, and one day it will click, and you to will be Paying it Forward to a newbie. If you think about it, I'm pretty sure you didn't fly perfect your first time out in the old days, it took practice to learn the nuances of doing it. Same thing all over again.



Lastly, if you can't find an answer, PM me. I'll give you the web site of my club. We fly anything, stinking gas to electric, micro to full scale, helis, and even cars/trucks, and an occasional boat. You will not meet a crazier bunch of guys, but they will have the answers for you.

p.s. and addendum to #6 above.
As mentioned, running an electric motor and esc, and even in some cases a pack for extended length of time, with no cooling air flow, is usually followed by what we call the Magic Smoke appearing. When the Magic Smoke leaks out it's not a good thing. But also even if you don't see the smoke, the heat can damage the magnets in the motor.

p.s.s. WELCOME TO THE ADDICTION

[flyyy]

Thanks, I must keep in mind that most of you weren't around the last time that I actually flew rc. The nimh are 2300 mah aa by Tenergy. I made the pack and yes I know how to solder. The package deal with no instructions is Dynam 18 amp esc. I found a website with Dynam chart; However, it doesn't correspond to the one I have. Instructions say after setting timing it will beep to let you know it is through and will save the settings. Well this thing keeps beeping more options. I've given up on nimh so forget trying to figure out why the pack got so hot at 12 amp. As for the question on blades its hard to pay radio shack $14 for 2 3.5mm bullets when the last you bought from hobbyworld or hobbywing or what ever name they are using today was 1.99 for 10 pairs, but like most of their other stuff they are out of stock. As for the chinese esc. where else in the world makes electronics nowadays? Its a tad frustrating but I guess it all averages out. The $5.00 a gal. nitro is now $16.00 a quart. On the other hand the cheapest servo I ever bought back in the day was $42. Now y
you can get 5 for $12. Go figure? By the way whats a F-35. I thought the newest was only up to F-22

[CHELLIE]

Thats Right We are here to Help it took me 1 year to get comfortable with E Power, its not easy, its a steep learning curve, its going to cost you some money to learn, but, once you do learn E Power, there is nothing Like it
use Heads Up Rc web page and motor selection chart to get Started, Jeff has some great prices, and he SHIPS FAST, normally 2 to 3 days I Learned a LOT from Jeffs motor charts in the beginning, so I am Passing this No Brainer Info to You to get started with take care and have fun, Chellie.


http://www.headsuprc.com/servlet/StoreFront


PS Jeff @ Heads Up Rc is Starting up a New Sister Store, Heads Up Hobby, and will be selling planes and more neet stuff, you heard it here First

[CHELLIE]

Originally Posted by flyyy

Thanks, I must keep in mind that most of you weren't around the last time that I actually flew rc. The nimh are 2300 mah aa by Tenergy. I made the pack and yes I know how to solder. The package deal with no instructions is Dynam 18 amp esc. I found a website with Dynam chart; However, it doesn't correspond to the one I have. Instructions say after setting timing it will beep to let you know it is through and will save the settings. Well this thing keeps beeping more options. I've given up on nimh so forget trying to figure out why the pack got so hot at 12 amp. As for the question on blades its hard to pay radio shack $14 for 2 3.5mm bullets when the last you bought from hobbyworld or hobbywing or what ever name they are using today was 1.99 for 10 pairs, but like most of their other stuff they are out of stock. As for the chinese esc. where else in the world makes electronics nowadays? Its a tad frustrating but I guess it all averages out. The $5.00 a gal. nitro is now $16.00 a quart. On the other hand the cheapest servo I ever bought back in the day was $42. Now you can get 5 for $12. Go figure?

Most of us are OLD FARTS here on Wattflyers I am 56 going on 29 LOL

[flyyy]

Chillie is right about headsup rc. I have received 2 shipments and they or he is right out the door with your stuff. Freight cost is $5 vs. $46 from China. Only problem is I didn't buy the esc's there. Wish I woulda...

[slipstick]

Originally Posted by flyyy

The nimh are 2300 mah aa by Tenergy. I made the pack and yes I know how to solder.

Consumer AA cells are not intended to deliver any real current. The high capacity (mAh) ones are particularly bad.

Originally Posted by flyyy

As for the question on blades its hard to pay radio shack $14 for 2 3.5mm bullets when the last you bought from hobbyworld or hobbywing or what ever name they are using today was 1.99 for 10 pairs, but like most of their other stuff they are out of stock.

Unfortunately the reason blade connectors are cheap is because they're no good...they simply won't handle much current.

Be thankful for all the stuff that is a lot cheaper now (like radios, servos, batteries etc) and don't try to cheap out on the other parts. It might help if you ask questions first and THEN buy things rather than spending your money and then asking why the cheap stuff you've bought doesn't work too well....but you already know that really, you're just having a bit of a rant .

BTW there are plenty of other vendors on the price scale nearer to Hobbyking than Radio Shack....but you do have to look around for them or maybe ask here first .

Steve

[Glacier Girl]

Well I can tell you right off the bat, the Turnigy AA cells are junk. I bought a set to build some rx packs out of. They lasted all of about 5 minutes running the receiver. They could not handle even that light load. I even ran a couple of cycles through em to condition them. If you noticed they aren't even listed on HK's site anymore. I wonder why?



As for the F-35, well just like electric systems the military is advancing at a pretty rapid rate too. The F-35 is the latest generation of fighter. http://www.aerospaceweb.org/question/planes/q0163.shtml


Oh and Chellie is an old fart. Me I'm a young 51 going on 12.

[Glacier Girl]

Whoops, almost missed the esc info you posted. Another welcome to the new age of electric flying. It's called rebadging.

Companies buy stock from another company, and put their sticker on the product.

What you have there is the infamous and old TowerPro 18 amp esc. It's actually a nice little esc, especially for the money.

The heatshrink color gives it away, it's been around for years, which is ancient in electronics. It's now badged as the Mag 8 on Hobby King's site.


Anyhow, that esc has had probably a half dozen changes to it's programming, so dependent on which version you have, it may take some playing with it to figure it out. Try this one, http://www.hextronik.com/docs/hextronikescecono.pdf



Back to the rebadging. Tower Pro, which is actually Hextronic, is rebadged more then any other brand I know of. TP was one of the first out there in the so called "Cheap" Chinese versions of electronics for our use. There are more places selling this stuff under different names then you can shake a stick at.

Often these companies don't even remove the TP labels, they just lay theirs right over it. Sometimes they don't even go that far. You'll find combo sets out there, where they relabel the esc but not the motor. I see this a lot in the smaller motors, like the 2410-09, 12,18,21's. The company will have some wizz bang name plastered on the esc, but as soon as you look you'll see the Tower Pro info on the motor bell.