Crazy idea?

[WayneG]

I have a Gentle Lady fuselage and Radian wings.
I plan on combining them into 1 plane.

Will it work? I think it should.
Thought of the following names
Gentle Ladian
Rough Lady

Any ideas?

[earthsciteach]

No idea if it will work or not, but I like the name "Radiant Lady."

[CHELLIE]

Originally Posted by WayneG

I have a Gentle Lady fuselage and Radian wings.
I plan on combining them into 1 plane.

Will it work? I think it should.
Thought of the following names
Gentle Ladian
Rough Lady

Any ideas?

Sure it will work just watch the incidence on the wing and elevator, keep them at 0-0 incidence, and a 25% CG from the leading edge, and i Think you will be fine, take care, Chellie

[Rockin Robbins]

There's a magic spot on that Radian wing at 70mm back from the leading edge. Your sink rate will be about 50% of that recommended at 63mm. It's a long way back from 25% of the chord but this particular airfoil really responds to it!

[WayneG]

Thanks for the replies and advice

[AEAJR]

I would be intereted as to how you plan to mount the wing. Teh Radian is a plug in shoulder mount and the GL tis a top mount rubber band on fuselage.

Love to see the photos of the set-up.

BTW, I like Radiant Lady too.

[CHELLIE]

Originally Posted by AEAJR

I would be intereted as to how you plan to mount the wing. Teh Radian is a plug in shoulder mount and the GL tis a top mount rubber band on fuselage.

Love to see the photos of the set-up.

BTW, I like Radiant Lady too.

I Think he can just epoxy the radiant wing together in the middle, and epoxy or gorilla glue some plastic skin from a milk bottle on the wing in the middle where the rubber bands will go, so the rubber bands dont dig into the foam, that should work ok, i have done that many times, hope that helps, Chellie

[WayneG]

The idea is still in its infancy. Details still to be worked out. I like Chellie's ideas

[AEAJR]

From an aerodynamic point of view, the section that goes inside the Radian is not clean. So you would probably want to create some kind of shell to smooth the airfoil. You would likely carve off the areas that mate with the Radian fuse.

So there is some carving and some adapting to do it properly. But for a quick mount and throw. It would be pretty easy to do. I would just strap it on and throw it, over the high grass.

I would use the Radian CG setting on the wing as a first approximation.

[Rockin Robbins]

I've often wondered how a built-up wing would work in a Radian fuselage...

We now return to our regularly scheduled programming.

[AEAJR]

Wings don't really care about what fuse they are on, other than weight and incidence.

[kyleservicetech]

Originally Posted by AEAJR

So there is some carving and some adapting to do it properly. But for a quick mount and throw. It would be pretty easy to do. I would just strap it on and throw it, over the high grass.

Next time you're in Ace Hardware or similar type store, take a look for "Lightweight Spackling Compound". This is a very light weight filler that is very easy to sand and shape into what ever configuration that is required. My 1/2 pint container is 10 years old, and I'm still using it. When it gets a little thick, just add a few drops of water to it.

It really helps to slightly wet the balsa wood or foam before putting this stuff on. After drying, it has the same consistancy or strength as the typical foam products used in our models.

If you want a much stronger surface, wait for at least 24 hours, then place a few drops of thin CA on it. And make sure the CA is foam safe if using on any foamed areas. Once you've placed CA on this stuff, it is much harder to sand.

[CHELLIE]

Originally Posted by kyleservicetech

Next time you're in Ace Hardware or similar type store, take a look for "Lightweight Spackling Compound". This is a very light weight filler that is very easy to sand and shape into what ever configuration that is required. My 1/2 pint container is 10 years old, and I'm still using it. When it gets a little thick, just add a few drops of water to it.

It really helps to slightly wet the balsa wood or foam before putting this stuff on. After drying, it has the same consistancy or strength as the typical foam products used in our models.

If you want a much stronger surface, wait for at least 24 hours, then place a few drops of thin CA on it. And make sure the CA is foam safe if using on any foamed areas. Once you've placed CA on this stuff, it is much harder to sand.

Great idea with the lite weight spackle and CA, I use a little epoxy mixed with the lite weight spackle, that helps also to make a very strong repair or surface finish.

[Rockin Robbins]

Originally Posted by AEAJR

Wings don't really care about what fuse they are on, other than weight and incidence.

Very, very true. you sure would have to be careful about the shape of the wing to go into the shoulder of the fuselage. Outside of that you could go with just about any shape you chose.

It's hard to imagine any true improvement in the Radian's flying characteristics by radical wing replacement. Of course you could change its flying characteristics totally by going with a thin section higher speed airfoil, but then you're not comparing apples to apples and lose the ability to compare performance meaningfully.

It's hard to see any up side to wing replacement. Still, it would be fun for somebody!

I like the Radiant Lady more.

[kyleservicetech]

Originally Posted by CHELLIE

Great idea with the lite weight spackle and CA, I use a little epoxy mixed with the lite weight spackle, that helps also to make a very strong repair or surface finish.

Hi Chellie
Epoxy with the spackle??? Got to try that one. With rubber gloves that is.

[CHELLIE]

Originally Posted by kyleservicetech

Hi Chellie
Epoxy with the spackle??? Got to try that one. With rubber gloves that is.

yes, the Pattern Plane guys use that to make wing fillets with micro ballon and lite weight spackle is the same thing. yes, use latex gloves

http://www.airfieldmodels.com/inform...dles/index.htm


How to Make Perfect Fitting Wing Saddles for a Model Aircraft
This tutorial will show you a way to achieve perfect fitting wing saddles. It will not show you how to set up the wing properly.
Prior to performing these steps, the wing should already be mounted true and square to the fuselage using wing bolts or rubber bands and dowels.
For years I attempted to fit and sand wing saddles to achieve a perfect fit and was never successful. I could get a perfect fit in both saddles but by that time the wing wouldn't be level.
My solution is to sand the saddle as close to a perfect fit as possible and use small shims (when necessary) to level the wing. The shims can be 1/4" square pieces of 1/64" plywood or material of suitable thickness.
The shims will not be bearing the load of the wing. All you need to do is strategically place them where they'll keep the wing where it is supposed to be. After the wing is squared, leveled, etc., the wing saddle can be cleaned up into something presentable.
Also see

• How to Mount a Wing to a Fuselage

Tools and Materials

• Shim material if needed
• Epoxy and micro-balloons or Silicone sealant
• Waxed paper, plastic food wrap or plastic iron-on covering (Monokote)
• Masking tape
• Spatula (balsa scrap works)
• Single edge razor blade

[kyleservicetech]

Originally Posted by CHELLIE

yes, the Pattern Plane guys use that to make wing fillets with micro ballon and lite weight spackle is the same thing. yes, use latex gloves

http://www.airfieldmodels.com/inform...dles/index.htm

Hi Chellie
1:30AM, you stay up later than my wife and I! (Wifey stays up to 2 or 3 AM. (Severe back pain issues. Don't ask!)

In this day of ARF's, the actual building of a model has changed. Right now, I'm finishing up converstion of an old 130% scratch built version of the Limbo Dancer model of about 10 years ago.

Previous power was a vastly overloaded geared Astro 05 motor on 10 Nicad cells. I actually cut a dozen 1/16 inch diameter aluminum fins that were pressed over the 05 motor to keep from melting it.

The new power system is a Hacker A40-10L motor with 6S1P A123 cells. Cut over a pound of weight out of it with the new power system.

Now, just waiting for the A123 cells to show up from http://www.voltmanbatteries.com/servlet/StoreFront. These guys are a little more expensive than direct from China, but they are located in Ohio, not half way around the world. Their main business is rebuilding battery packs from just about any battery operated power tool.

Hey, the sun's out! First time in near two weeks around here. Got to go flying.

[CHELLIE]

Originally Posted by kyleservicetech

Hi Chellie
1:30AM, you stay up later than my wife and I! (Wifey stays up to 2 or 3 AM. (Severe back pain issues. Don't ask!)

In this day of ARF's, the actual building of a model has changed. Right now, I'm finishing up converstion of an old 130% scratch built version of the Limbo Dancer model of about 10 years ago.

Previous power was a vastly overloaded geared Astro 05 motor on 10 Nicad cells. I actually cut a dozen 1/16 inch diameter aluminum fins that were pressed over the 05 motor to keep from melting it.

The new power system is a Hacker A40-10L motor with 6S1P A123 cells. Cut over a pound of weight out of it with the new power system.

Now, just waiting for the A123 cells to show up from http://www.voltmanbatteries.com/servlet/StoreFront. These guys are a little more expensive than direct from China, but they are located in Ohio, not half way around the world. Their main business is rebuilding battery packs from just about any battery operated power tool.

Hey, the sun's out! First time in near two weeks around here. Got to go flying.

Glad to hear that you have some good weather to fly in, its been windy out my way for weeks, gusting to 70 mph at times, the micro balloon and epoxy is old school, used to do that over 30 years ago, most of the new people getting into this hobby, will never experience building with balsa, and tissue paper or silk span and dope or forming fillets for their wings, its a dying art form I like the A123 cells, I will be starting to use them in my larger planes, my smaller and medium planes i dont think would benefit from using A123 cells, as they are a little heavier than a lipo for the same power, but i like the fact that they charge up real quick, so you dont have to buy 3 pack to keep flying the same plane while the lipos are charging, and thats a savings right there Take care and have fun, Chellie

[kyleservicetech]

Originally Posted by CHELLIE

I like the A123 cells, I will be starting to use them in my larger planes, my smaller and medium planes i dont think would benefit from using A123 cells, as they are a little heavier than a lipo for the same power, but i like the fact that they charge up real quick, so you dont have to buy 3 pack to keep flying the same plane while the lipos are charging, and thats a savings right there Take care and have fun, Chellie

Hi Chellie
If you go to a model with more than 1KW, I can recommend the Cellpro Powerlab 8 charger, having used one now for several months.

The Cellpro chargers (Cellpro 4S, 10S, '8') are "additive" chargers, where the charger brings up any low cell to the same voltage as the other cells, before completing the charge cycle.

Just came back from the flying field an hour ago, put 5 flights on my 3000 watt model, and one flight on my 1KW model. That Cellpro Powerlab 8 charger completes the recharge cycle in about 19 minutes. I typically take about 60% capacity out of the A123's. Just a note though, seems like these 2300 MAH A123's check out at about 2100 Mah or so, at currents on the order of 35 Amps per cell.

Regards
Nice.

[CHELLIE]

Thank you for the info Dennis, that will be a great help, Take care, Chellie

[kyleservicetech]

Originally Posted by CHELLIE

Thank you for the info Dennis, that will be a great help, Take care, Chellie

Hi Chellie
Have a good weekend!!!

[mred]

Originally Posted by CHELLIE

yes, the Pattern Plane guys use that to make wing fillets with micro ballon and lite weight spackle is the same thing. yes, use latex gloves

http://www.airfieldmodels.com/inform...dles/index.htm


How to Make Perfect Fitting Wing Saddles for a Model Aircraft
This tutorial will show you a way to achieve perfect fitting wing saddles. It will not show you how to set up the wing properly.
Prior to performing these steps, the wing should already be mounted true and square to the fuselage using wing bolts or rubber bands and dowels.
For years I attempted to fit and sand wing saddles to achieve a perfect fit and was never successful. I could get a perfect fit in both saddles but by that time the wing wouldn't be level.
My solution is to sand the saddle as close to a perfect fit as possible and use small shims (when necessary) to level the wing. The shims can be 1/4" square pieces of 1/64" plywood or material of suitable thickness.
The shims will not be bearing the load of the wing. All you need to do is strategically place them where they'll keep the wing where it is supposed to be. After the wing is squared, leveled, etc., the wing saddle can be cleaned up into something presentable.
Also see

• How to Mount a Wing to a Fuselage

Tools and Materials

• Shim material if needed
• Epoxy and micro-balloons or Silicone sealant
• Waxed paper, plastic food wrap or plastic iron-on covering (Monokote)
• Masking tape
• Spatula (balsa scrap works)
• Single edge razor blade

Hi Chellie;
Quit a few years ago we used to make wing fillits and wing bedding using Sig Epoxy-Lite and it worked great. We would put Saran Wrap on the wing to keep the Epoxy-Lite from sticking to the wing during this operation and then would take a heat gun and shrink out all the wrinkels. Put enough on to make sure it was filling all the imperfections on the saddle and then bolt the wing back on. Wait overnight for it to set up and then you just needed to trim off the excess on the outside of the fuselage. It's not that hard to do and makes perfect wing beds every time............

Ed