Remote field charging setup

[C-Three]

Sorry if this is a semi-duplicate thread... all the reading of charging large or small LiPos at high or low rates, of various sizes, deep-cycle amp hour ratings, etc. is getting too technical for even my way of thinking. I'd like to short circuit (pun intended) the massive volumes of technical reading and get straight to what the members here think would be a good solution to one particular situation:

We dry-camp at a number of fun-flys throughout the summer season. Length of trips usually runs between 2 and 5 days. I need to charge a variety of packs at the field. On the small side, we're flying a lot of the $.99 ParkZone and HobbyZone micros, and on the big end I've got a few 2,800mAh 4S 14.8V LiPo packs for the CZ Yak. I may go slightly larger in the future, but for the 25% GP Yak I've elected to go gas as the electric setups are just too expen$ive. There are also a variety of ignition and receiver NiCd, LiPo, LiFe, and NiMH packs. To top it all off, I've had to charge both Spektrum and Futaba radios at these events in the past (I've since learned to lock up the Tx and prevent curious 3-year-olds from flipping switches!)

What I'm looking for is a portable hobby-bench AND field charging station/system. A charger (or two) that can do multiple chemistries, and possibly multiple packs at a time... at the fastest possible rate while still maintaining a high degree of safety, balancing, etc. Most of the good computer chargers I'm seeing are DC, so I'm also looking for battery suggestions. Then, while we're dreaming and engineering perfection, how about a 110v inverter or power supply so I can plug the whole mess into the outlet at the bench at home to both recharge the big battery(ies) and use the computer charger(s) on the bench. Cherry on top of all this fluffy icing? Is there some sort of switch (or auto-switch) to use the 110A/C when available (plugged in) or the big battery when the 110 is unplugged?

Discuss and let's see if I can put together a parts list for a build to get this thing together.

Thanks!
-Case

[Wrongway-Feldman]

Try a couple of these chargers.
http://www.hobbypartz.com/skychb6chdup.html
Has built in powersupply so will run off 110. Also comes with alligator clips for a 12v dc source such as a deep cycle battery. Does everything you require of it including being able to charge every type of battery available.

[Wildflyer]

Well this is what is use at the field

I have a Ford 250 7.3 diesel, it has two LARGE batteries up front, I ran a 6 gauge wire from a dedicated fuse, close to left front battery, the wire runs down through protected sleeves clear to the back corner of my pickup box. I have a electrical box mounted there and have 2 sets of banana plugs, Deans plug, XT60 plug, and I am going to add a cigarette lighter plug. I use a slide out in my truck as my model/flight bench at both of the fields I fly from.

I have 3 model chargers mounted on a piece of plywood about 8" X 24". One is a Hobbieco Elite, a Hobbieco Fast Field charger (both of these are dual output chargers and multi type) and a Astro flight 109 lipo charger. I can charge 5 at once if I had enough balancers. These are all wired to a common bus, and it plugs in with one cord. The Astro 109 has a input voltage readout, so I always know how my truck batteries are holding out.

At home the charger board plugs into a 13.3vdc ,11 amp output Astron power supply. I'm not in much hurry at home, so the 11 amps is fine. The truck could deliver 60+ amps.

Any portable battery to use at the field will have to be very large to charge your batteries for a week end. I can simply start the truck for a little while if I get down to far, but so far I have been out all day flying, and could not tell any difference when I started my truck.

We would all like to have a 10 lb battery with about 1000 amp hours, or a portable nuclear power plant for those long dry camp sessions, but I can't find one, so this is my answer to my problem, your best answer may be different, but I hope it works as good.

[CanCanCase]

I like that SkyCharger for AC/DC operation. I've also had a Venom AC/DC Pro model recommended for the same purposes. Can anyone clarify (or even just list) the selection of re-branded AC/DC multiple-chemistry chargers out there? Is there any good reason why I shouldn't just pick up 2 or 3 of the cheapest models available?

Building a panel tied to the car/truck battery is a good idea...

Oh, and I'm interested in this thread because I posted the question in the first place (and have since been educated and had the kinks worked out with the 2 handles!)

Thanks again!
- Case

[kyleservicetech]

Originally Posted by C-Three

Sorry if this is a semi-duplicate thread... all the reading of charging large or small LiPos at high or low rates, of various sizes, deep-cycle amp hour ratings, etc. is getting too technical for even my way of thinking. I'd like to short circuit (pun intended) the massive volumes of technical reading and get straight to what the members here think would be a good solution to one particular situation:

We dry-camp at a number of fun-flys throughout the summer season. Length of trips usually runs between 2 and 5 days. I need to charge a variety of packs at the field. On the small side, we're flying a lot of the $.99 ParkZone and HobbyZone micros, and on the big end I've got a few 2,800mAh 4S 14.8V LiPo packs for the CZ Yak. I may go slightly larger in the future, but for the 25% GP Yak I've elected to go gas as the electric setups are just too expen$ive. There are also a variety of ignition and receiver NiCd, LiPo, LiFe, and NiMH packs. To top it all off, I've had to charge both Spektrum and Futaba radios at these events in the past (I've since learned to lock up the Tx and prevent curious 3-year-olds from flipping switches!)

What I'm looking for is a portable hobby-bench AND field charging station/system. A charger (or two) that can do multiple chemistries, and possibly multiple packs at a time... at the fastest possible rate while still maintaining a high degree of safety, balancing, etc. Most of the good computer chargers I'm seeing are DC, so I'm also looking for battery suggestions. Then, while we're dreaming and engineering perfection, how about a 110v inverter or power supply so I can plug the whole mess into the outlet at the bench at home to both recharge the big battery(ies) and use the computer charger(s) on the bench. Cherry on top of all this fluffy icing? Is there some sort of switch (or auto-switch) to use the 110A/C when available (plugged in) or the big battery when the 110 is unplugged?

Discuss and let's see if I can put together a parts list for a build to get this thing together.

Thanks!
-Case

That's kind of a tall order. You're looking at a big deep cycle battery, something on the order of a 70 pound 120 Ampere marine battery, or RV backup battery. Especially if you want to put in several days of flying.

They can be hard to find, but look for a deep cycle battery, not one that is a "Deep Cycle/Engine Starting" type of battery.

[CanCanCase]

I'm surprised nobody's mentioned the idea of a small generator to recharge the big battery each evening... One of the electric heli guys in our club packs his Honda genset around.

- Case

[kyleservicetech]

Originally Posted by CanCanCase

I'm surprised nobody's mentioned the idea of a small generator to recharge the big battery each evening... One of the electric heli guys in our club packs his Honda genset around.

- Case

I've done that, but some places don't allow engines or generators at their camp sites. None are allowed in Wisconsin State campgrounds.

As for generators, what I did years ago was hooked up a 50 Amp 12 volt automotive alternator to a 3.5 Hp Briggs and Stratton engine, and used that alternator to recharge my deep cycle battery used for lights and a DC fan in a pop up camper. It would take an hour or so to recharge that battery. It took the full horsepower out of that Briggs engine to run that alternator! At least for the first 5 minutes or so until the deep cycle battery voltage came up a little bit.

I'd be a little reluctant to just switch the battery cable on or off between the alternator and the deep cycle battery. Switching transients and sparks could blow the three phase rectifier inside the alternator.

If you do this, you need to get inside the alternator and put a toggle switch into the alternators field winding. If you don't, as soon as you try to start the engine with the rope start, the alternator kicks in, and instantly prevents the engine from starting.