Wattflyer RC Network: RC Universe :: RCU Magazine :: RCU Forums :: RCU Classifieds :: RCU User Reviews :: RCU YouTube
Home Who's Online Calendar Today's Posts RealTime Post Spy Mark Forums Read
Go Back   WattFlyer RC Electric Flight Forums - Discuss radio control eflight > R/C Electric Power - Batteries, Chargers, ESCs and More > Brushless Motor Construction
Register Members List Wattflyer Extras Articles Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read Social Groups

Brushless Motor Construction Discuss design and construction of custom Brushless motors

Thank you for your support (hide ads)
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 05-15-2010, 05:30 AM   #1
RodRatio
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 25
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
iTrader: (1)
Friends: (0)
Default Park 480 prop shaft

I have noticed that the hobbyzone motor bearings are quite delicate, a robust prop strike is all it takes to make the bearings crunchy and noisy. I really crashed a Park 480 big time, a real well digger, the prop shaft broke off cleanly where it leaves the motor. The new shafts are cheap enough, but won't the bearings be trashed? I know the Park motors are a notch above the OEM hobbyzone, but I really have no idea what I'm doing here - should I even bother with a new prop shaft? Also, I have no clue as to how I replace anything in a brushless motor. Comments?
RodRatio is offline  
  Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2010, 08:43 PM   #2
stanlazi
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 60
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
iTrader: (1)
Friends: (0)
Default got the shaft

Isn't there anyone out there that can tell use how to replace the shaft on these 480.??
I have my e-flite 480 apart and can not get the stub of the broken shaft out.
I hate to use a hammer. One of the guys said to use a vise.
Help
stanlazi is offline  
  Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2010, 11:35 PM   #3
dumo01
dumo01
 
dumo01's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Columbus, Ohio
Posts: 766
Thanked 99 Times in 99 Posts
Club: Westerville Model Aeronautics Assc
iTrader: (0)
Friends: (7)
Default Park Zone motor repair

The motor shaft is secured in two places the collet at the back a of the motor and at the front of the bell housing. You can see the set screw in the collet in the picture located above the jaw of the clamp as well as the empty set screw hole at the front of the bell housing. There will be two set screw on either side of the bell housing. Typically I have found these set screws to need a 1.5 mm hex wrench. You will need to back the screws out quite a bit, I would just take them out completely and place them somewhere safe. I have found the are prone to hit the floor and are quite effective at hiding. If the shaft was bent in the bearing, bell housing etc if may still be a bit tough to remove the shaft and may need a bot of persuasion. The bell housing is able to slide off the front of the motor until you re-secure it to the shaft. Make sure you get the flat spots lined up with the set screws on your new shaft. The other issue you may find is that the bell housing is prone to develop cracks, either from crash damage or if you tighten the set screws at the front of the bell housing too much. I have tried using a little thin CA into these cracks when I have found them and then clamping the bell housing crack closed with a set of vice grips until the glue has a chance to set. If you use too much and it accumulates inside the shaft hole it will be tough to get the shaft back in when the glue dries. Not sure as yet how well this repair will hold up, seems OK so far, but I am keeping a close eye on the motor to see if ( when) the cracks open up again. Sets up a pretty impressive vibration when it spins up if those cracks are starting to open up.
Good luck with it


Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCF1231.jpg
Views:	344
Size:	154.5 KB
ID:	128446
dumo01 is offline  
  Reply With Quote
Old 05-24-2010, 03:19 AM   #4
stanlazi
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 60
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
iTrader: (1)
Friends: (0)
Default shaft

Thanks for the detailed help.
I can not get the shaft out of the bell housing.
I tried goof off, acetone and tonight WD40
It is really in there
sl
stanlazi is offline  
  Reply With Quote
Old 05-24-2010, 07:37 PM   #5
RodRatio
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 25
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
iTrader: (1)
Friends: (0)
Default

I saw an instructional video (I forget where) and the guy uses a small drift punch and a ball peen hammer to remove and reverse the direction of the shaft. It looks like it takes a pretty good whack to get the shaft to move. My only experience with cartridge sealed bearings is with bicycle hubs, and this is a big no-no.
RodRatio is offline  
  Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-2012, 01:49 AM   #6
Fishbonez
Love my Stinger
 
Fishbonez's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Wyoming
Posts: 2,223
Thanked 105 Times in 104 Posts
Club: Cheyenne Hill Hoppers
Send a message via AIM to Fishbonez Send a message via Yahoo to Fishbonez
iTrader: (0)
Friends: (17)
Default

I know this is an old thread but, in case someone was wondering I know I was.
I just performed the above and as long as you use a rubber mallot or a hammer with a rag over the shaft 2 pices of wood so the bell housing does not move you will be fine does not require a good wack or a vise.

Happy flying may your crashes be limited and if they are not limited let them be cool.
Fishbonez is offline  
  Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-2012, 02:29 AM   #7
swimmer
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Derby, Kansas
Posts: 225
Thanked 11 Times in 9 Posts
iTrader: (0)
Friends: (2)
Default

Hold it....don't beat on it!

Take a piece of 2x4 and drill a hold through it just larger than the shaft. Put the shaft in the hole then use a vise as a press to push the shaft out. All the 480 shafts I've changed can be removed from this point easily or if you have to use a pin to back the shaft to push it on out. Use the vise to push the shaft back in backing it with another piece of wood if necessary. Very easy and no damage.
swimmer is offline  
  Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-2012, 02:43 AM   #8
Fishbonez
Love my Stinger
 
Fishbonez's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Wyoming
Posts: 2,223
Thanked 105 Times in 104 Posts
Club: Cheyenne Hill Hoppers
Send a message via AIM to Fishbonez Send a message via Yahoo to Fishbonez
iTrader: (0)
Friends: (17)
Default

Originally Posted by swimmer View Post
Hold it....don't beat on it!

Take a piece of 2x4 and drill a hold through it just larger than the shaft. Put the shaft in the hole then use a vise as a press to push the shaft out. All the 480 shafts I've changed can be removed from this point easily or if you have to use a pin to back the shaft to push it on out. Use the vise to push the shaft back in backing it with another piece of wood if necessary. Very easy and no damage.
That would work and a great idea, however one must have a vise. I don't have one for example and I do not recommend beating it either just a little harder than a tap. Also I could not use a vise if I had one because my shaft broke flush with the housing. Well I take tha back I could use a vise but I would have to put something like my drive pin to give the required press

Happy flying may your crashes be limited and if they are not limited let them be cool.
Fishbonez is offline  
  Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-2012, 02:54 AM   #9
swimmer
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Derby, Kansas
Posts: 225
Thanked 11 Times in 9 Posts
iTrader: (0)
Friends: (2)
Default

Originally Posted by Fishbonez View Post
That would work and a great idea, however one must have a vise. I don't have one for example and I do not recommend beating it either just a little harder than a tap. Also I could not use a vise if I had one because my shaft broke flush with the housing. Well I take tha back I could use a vise but I would have to put something like my drive pin to give the required press
Is there enough shaft to grip with vise-grips? Usually you can twist the shaft out of the end bell from there.
swimmer is offline  
  Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-2012, 03:11 AM   #10
Fishbonez
Love my Stinger
 
Fishbonez's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Wyoming
Posts: 2,223
Thanked 105 Times in 104 Posts
Club: Cheyenne Hill Hoppers
Send a message via AIM to Fishbonez Send a message via Yahoo to Fishbonez
iTrader: (0)
Friends: (17)
Default

Nope didnt try that. But another possibility though

Happy flying may your crashes be limited and if they are not limited let them be cool.
Fishbonez is offline  
  Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-2012, 03:13 AM   #11
swimmer
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Derby, Kansas
Posts: 225
Thanked 11 Times in 9 Posts
iTrader: (0)
Friends: (2)
Default

Originally Posted by Fishbonez View Post
Nope didnt try that. But another possibility though
Grip the shaft and twist the end bell off it. Should come right off.
swimmer is offline  
  Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-2012, 03:58 AM   #12
Fishbonez
Love my Stinger
 
Fishbonez's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Wyoming
Posts: 2,223
Thanked 105 Times in 104 Posts
Club: Cheyenne Hill Hoppers
Send a message via AIM to Fishbonez Send a message via Yahoo to Fishbonez
iTrader: (0)
Friends: (17)
Default

Great idea swimmer. They really are not that hard to remove. Was really surprised that mine came out so easy. The key is not to put any burs or bend the shaft when removing or replacing them.

Happy flying may your crashes be limited and if they are not limited let them be cool.
Fishbonez is offline  
  Reply With Quote
Old 04-03-2012, 04:04 AM   #13
swimmer
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Derby, Kansas
Posts: 225
Thanked 11 Times in 9 Posts
iTrader: (0)
Friends: (2)
Default

Originally Posted by Fishbonez View Post
Great idea swimmer. They really are not that hard to remove. Was really surprised that mine came out so easy. The key is not to put any burs or bend the shaft when removing or replacing them.
Realize every time you replace the shaft the hole gets a little bit larger. Make sure your set screws are tight when putting your motor back together. Use a little Lock-Tite.
swimmer is offline  
  Reply With Quote
Old 05-15-2012, 03:07 PM   #14
solentlife
Super Contributor
 
solentlife's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Ex UK Brit now in Latvia west coast - Ventspils
Posts: 5,917
View solentlife's Gallery47
Thanked 234 Times in 231 Posts
Club: Founder Member Ventspils RC Club. Ex Waltham Chase and Meon Valley Soaring.
Awards Showcase

Scratchbuilders Award  Scratchbuilders Award  Outstanding Contributor Award  125mph Speed Demon 
iTrader: (0)
Friends: (15)
Default

Originally Posted by swimmer View Post
Hold it....don't beat on it!

Take a piece of 2x4 and drill a hold through it just larger than the shaft. Put the shaft in the hole then use a vise as a press to push the shaft out. All the 480 shafts I've changed can be removed from this point easily or if you have to use a pin to back the shaft to push it on out. Use the vise to push the shaft back in backing it with another piece of wood if necessary. Very easy and no damage.
The problem with a vise is the getting all square and not crooked ....

Personally ... I mount the bell on a block and use a drift punch and small flat face hammer. It takes one smart good punch and shaft is on it's way. Once I have a start and the shaft hole is open - I take another shaft of the next size down .... that finishes the job.

The secret as I see it - is the right drift punch. It has to be a flat end not pointed and with minimum taper.

222kph PKJ,EDF Concorde, Mini4,Mig3,T45,PKJ twin,ME109,Edge540,Cessna182,Skymaster Biplane,F15,F16,Badius,Ultimate,SE5,Qbee10,450 Heli,V911,J3 Cub Founder 9x forum: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Flysky_RC_radio/
- Subscribe my Youtube: "solentlifeuk"
solentlife is offline  
  Reply With Quote
Old 05-15-2012, 03:56 PM   #15
swimmer
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Derby, Kansas
Posts: 225
Thanked 11 Times in 9 Posts
iTrader: (0)
Friends: (2)
Default

Originally Posted by solentlife View Post
The problem with a vise is the getting all square and not crooked ....

Personally ... I mount the bell on a block and use a drift punch and small flat face hammer. It takes one smart good punch and shaft is on it's way. Once I have a start and the shaft hole is open - I take another shaft of the next size down .... that finishes the job.

The secret as I see it - is the right drift punch. It has to be a flat end not pointed and with minimum taper.
Never had a problem using the vise. Centering is very easy. Pounding on any shaft/end bell is asking for problems. Glad your way works for you.
swimmer is offline  
  Reply With Quote
Old 05-15-2012, 08:21 PM   #16
hayofstacks
Super Contributor
 
hayofstacks's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Utah
Posts: 1,553
Thanked 115 Times in 114 Posts
iTrader: (0)
Friends: (5)
Default

For the price of a park 480, I would think about replacing it with a cheaper motor from heads up rc. Not that eflight doesn't make good motors, but you can get one that will match or exceed the efligh one for about half.

My sport 450 motors I have replaced the shaft 3 or 4 times by losening the single set screw with a 1.5mm allen wrench, then I tap the shaft holding the back of the motor until the "c" clip pokes out enough to pullthe clip off, then I grap some good adjustable pliers, or my trusty old kline 9" linesman pliers, and pull it out by grabbing onto the groove the clip fits into. You only have to tap the shaft 1mm or so outwards, then you can simply pull it out without damaging anything.

I have not repaired or replaced a motor yet by doing it this way. I have also swapped out the same shaft multipul times for several other motors I have had. If you ever brake it right off the bell and you have an extra, you can slip the "c" clip off the back of both motors, and then just swap bells withough having to worry about messing with the easily stripped set screw. Heads up also carries the set screws in a 5 pack. Brought sever motors back to service this way.

Always use lock tight on the set screws.
hayofstacks is offline  
  Reply With Quote
Old 05-15-2012, 08:49 PM   #17
swimmer
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Derby, Kansas
Posts: 225
Thanked 11 Times in 9 Posts
iTrader: (0)
Friends: (2)
Default

Originally Posted by hayofstacks View Post
For the price of a park 480, I would think about replacing it with a cheaper motor from heads up rc. Not that eflight doesn't make good motors, but you can get one that will match or exceed the efligh one for about half.

My sport 450 motors I have replaced the shaft 3 or 4 times by losening the single set screw with a 1.5mm allen wrench, then I tap the shaft holding the back of the motor until the "c" clip pokes out enough to pullthe clip off, then I grap some good adjustable pliers, or my trusty old kline 9" linesman pliers, and pull it out by grabbing onto the groove the clip fits into. You only have to tap the shaft 1mm or so outwards, then you can simply pull it out without damaging anything.

I have not repaired or replaced a motor yet by doing it this way. I have also swapped out the same shaft multipul times for several other motors I have had. If you ever brake it right off the bell and you have an extra, you can slip the "c" clip off the back of both motors, and then just swap bells withough having to worry about messing with the easily stripped set screw. Heads up also carries the set screws in a 5 pack. Brought sever motors back to service this way.

Always use lock tight on the set screws.
I don't buy EFlite motors anymore. To many others available that have good performance and are much more affordable. I use motors from HeadsUp, Hobbypartz and HobbyKing and really don't have a favorite unless it would be the MonsterPower 46. That is one very nice motor. Have yet to replace a shaft in any of these motors.

Sound like you have a good system to replace shafts. Glad it works for you.
swimmer is offline  
  Reply With Quote
Old 05-24-2012, 06:14 PM   #18
solentlife
Super Contributor
 
solentlife's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Ex UK Brit now in Latvia west coast - Ventspils
Posts: 5,917
View solentlife's Gallery47
Thanked 234 Times in 231 Posts
Club: Founder Member Ventspils RC Club. Ex Waltham Chase and Meon Valley Soaring.
Awards Showcase

Scratchbuilders Award  Scratchbuilders Award  Outstanding Contributor Award  125mph Speed Demon 
iTrader: (0)
Friends: (15)
Default

Now there's a thing ............ I see others saying it - but I have never used Loctite on the motors shaft set-screws. With all the motors I have ... not one has ever shown any signs that I should do that.

For those who need C clips ... shafts .... bearings ..... set screws ......... go to RCtimer.com ........... he has it all ............

222kph PKJ,EDF Concorde, Mini4,Mig3,T45,PKJ twin,ME109,Edge540,Cessna182,Skymaster Biplane,F15,F16,Badius,Ultimate,SE5,Qbee10,450 Heli,V911,J3 Cub Founder 9x forum: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Flysky_RC_radio/
- Subscribe my Youtube: "solentlifeuk"
solentlife is offline  
  Reply With Quote
Reply

  WattFlyer RC Electric Flight Forums - Discuss radio control eflight > R/C Electric Power - Batteries, Chargers, ESCs and More > Brushless Motor Construction

« Previous Thread | Next Thread »

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Question Park 450 and Park 480 Equivalent gfdengine204 Heads UP RC discussion 14 02-27-2009 11:15 PM
E-flite Park 480 on a SF 10x4.7 prop? GreenAce92 Power Systems 6 07-12-2008 02:37 PM
E-flite Park 480/which prop? 68Blkbrd Power Systems 12 04-08-2008 11:28 PM
Broken E-flite Park 480 Shaft metaglypto Aerial Photography 4 09-08-2007 02:48 PM
Standard Prop with the Mini Edge 540 Park 480 mtuhoop24 Power Systems 7 07-17-2007 08:54 PM


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 11:31 AM.


Powered by: vBulletin
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright 2005 WattfFlyer.com
RCU Eflight HQ

Charities we support Select: Yorkie Rescue  ::  Crohn's & Colitis Foundation



Page generated in 0.70957 seconds with 58 queries