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Old 05-16-2012, 08:03 PM   #26
DragonWeezel
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Default Southern tip of Puget Sound

I live in Olympia, WA where the sound is so calm, and the space so wide open, that "NOT" flying there is difficult. I've resisted so far, but had I known of my Seawind's unfortunate winter demise, I'd have tested her out there while eating @ Anthony's Hearthfire Grill!

I'm going to be searching for this corrosionX stuff to soak my Icon A5 in, because I don't know if I can resist flying from there too much longer...
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Old 05-19-2012, 12:59 PM   #27
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Not hard to find:www.corrosionx.com

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Old 05-19-2012, 01:57 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by Jim Casey View Post
Not hard to find:www.corrosionx.com
Hey jim sorry if this has already been asked but, I have a HZ Super Cub with floats and it is looking at me asking to take her out to the water. Do I need corrosionx on foam? Just unsure thanks in advance

Happy flying may your crashes be limited and if they are not limited let them be cool.
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Old 05-19-2012, 02:46 PM   #29
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Jim,

I second Fish's question. We're having an AMA sanctioned float fly on June 3rd at the lake adjacent to our field. I''m bringing the HZ SC with floats and my scratchbuilt Convair Sea Dart. Not salt water, but is there a water repellent I can apply or should I wrap the electrics in plastic wrap?

I have zero experience at float flying so this will be a new adventure for me.

Thanks,

Hawk

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Old 06-16-2012, 02:38 AM   #30
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I missed the June 3 deadline. Sorry.
most components will live if they get wet IN FRESH WATER and are carefully dried. But not the ESC. I nosed my plane over and IMMEDIATELY shut off power. Took the ESC home, removed the shrink wrap and heat sink, and let 'er dry out for a week. I plugged it in and got a loud POP and a blue-green flash. And a dent in my credit card.
Soak the ESC in CorrosionX. then do the receiver and all the connectors if you want to be careful. Servos:you can seal the cases and the shaft exit with dielectric grease, which is more effective then opening them up. If you DO open them up, Do the PC boards, but only the motor bearings with a tiny drop and stay away from the potentiometer.

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