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Old 06-03-2012, 10:09 PM   #1
Flysfloats
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Default Top Flite KittiWake

I am about half way completed in building this old kit (circa '87) and want to power it with an electric motor. Flying weight is estimated to be 3-3.5 lbs and it was recommended to be powered by a .19 to .29 glow engine.

I am considering a brushless 3010 1400kv motor, 40 amp ESC, and a 2200mAh battery for this effort. I will be flying it off of a lake at 3,700 msl so density altitude is a possible consideration on a hot day (tee-hee).

So what do you think, is this enough power for sport flying with basic aerobatics??

Thanks for the help. Flysfloats
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Old 06-05-2012, 11:10 PM   #2
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I had a Kittiwake, and I had a lot of trouble with the tip floats catching on the takeoff run. The aluminum struts to the MAIN Float were soft and when the TIP floats caused a big splat at takeoff speed, the main-float struts would need to be straightened.
I built-up the turtledeck from formers and 1/16 balsa sheeting instead of the balsa plank/carve to shape that was supplied with the kit.
I finally flew it without the tip floats. When I put wheels on it, it was sensational. I had an OS.20FP and everybody kept asking what motor I had. It's a small-scale Kaos.

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Old 06-06-2012, 04:13 AM   #3
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Hello Jim: I haven't heard from you since the R/C Hangout days. Thank you for the comments on the KittiWake. I am going to proceed with it and may try to beef things up a bit as a result of your experience.

I am still hoping to get some input on what size electric motor would be appropiate for this? Since I live on a lake wheels are a pain for me and I love the water. I am looking forward to flying an electric off of the water as so far I have only flown the Fun Cub off of sand in Baja. Fun to try something new.

Later, FF PS On the RC Hangout I was Floatflyer, sadly, not available here.
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Old 06-06-2012, 11:09 PM   #4
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It was my first floatplane. I tried it tail-heavy once and it was scary. I tried it nose heavy and it flew well but did not want to flare.
No real problems with the torque-rod aileron setup, but small servos are available now that will fit in the wing. I had to scallop the hold-down plate in the fuselage to clear the torque-rods with the center-mounted aileron servo.
I think I would try carbon-fiber sheet to make the landing gear struts, and bolt them to the sides of the fuse instead of the bottom. Maybe even modify the float to have a v-bottom.

I always thought it would be fun to blow the plans up 25% and use a .60 on it.

RC Hangout was a long time ago. I hope the KW works well for you.

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Old 06-10-2012, 04:22 PM   #5
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Continuing on with my build. Will look at adding some of your "improvements" as I get further. Now starting on the fuselage. Main float is pretty much done but nothing on tip floats yet. Wing is done except for mounting servo and wing tip blocks. Still undecided on what to power this with? FF
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Old 06-12-2012, 08:55 PM   #6
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The fuselage is not super roomy. plan ahead with the location of your servos, battery pack, receiver, etc. You might want to make the top of the fuselage into a battery hatch.
Aileron servos in the wing, Mini servos mounted behind the wing in the sides of the fuselage or even farther back.
Is I ineptly tried to relate before, it was sensitive to where the CG is.

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Old 06-19-2012, 05:02 PM   #7
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Jim: Thanks for the suggestions. A hatch on top of the fuselage is a must, good idea. I am going to lengthen the gear legs to increase the clearance for a larger prop. I also am going to make my own tip floats out of 2" foam, glass and resin them. To try and avoid the catching of the tip floats, I am thinking that if I extend the tip floats to either touching the water or just barely above the water, the plane might not tip to one side so much and catch a tip float, more like a mini trimaran set up, what do you think?? Later, FF
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Old 06-20-2012, 11:58 PM   #8
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There are those who make their own rules, but running the tip floats down so the bottom of the tip float is at the height of the top of the step has worked for me.
Having very high tip floats means that when they finally touch the water, you are well and truly out of shape. Lowered tip floats dance lightly across the surface.
Also the incidence of the planing surface of the tip floats should be 8 degrees, and the planing surface of the floats should be 4 degrees. Check HERE: the best technical article about RC floats I have found. http://www.smilesandwags.com/Floatsite/westwood.html
Arm yourself with this and the Cunningham article and you will have everything you need to be successful at floatplanes.

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Old 07-28-2012, 12:10 AM   #9
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You have been quiet for too long. How's the Kittiwake coming?

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Old 07-28-2012, 03:03 AM   #10
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Jim: I am a bad boy. I have not worked on my Kittiwake for some time, big changes in our lives. First, I started on a Foamie, I have a thread on the foamie forum under Sorta of ---. Mixed results at best!!!

The other change is that our house in BC was sold in 2 days and we have to vacate by Aug 1st!!! Until last week we were homeless, knew sort of what area we wanted to be in but could not find a home to our liking AND in our price range. That has changed as we have a deal on a place in Oak Harbor, WA which is on Whidbey Island. Don't know where I will fly on floats but there is a nice looking flying club that uses part of the Whidbey Island Navy base for it's flying field. All in all, we are looking forward to the change. Once I am settled in I will start finish the Kittiwake and post the reslts. Later, FF
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