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| WWI Era Discuss all your favorite WWI warbirds here! |
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#176 | ||
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Evansville, IN
Posts: 687
Thanked 14 Times in 14 Posts
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Looks great! I like the little details like the foot step and wing skids.
I haven't done much with mine lately. Still need to work on the new Spandaus...going to work on doing some photo-etch cooling jackets, but I need some warmer weather to work on that. I did manage to make an acceptable pair of more scale-like wheels. Today, I picked up a Dr.I with the AnyLink module. For the record, the Tactic micro board has an auto-link feature which allows it to bind...well automatically (of course) to the module. I assume this happens each time it is powered up...so be wary of this when flying with other birds with the same brick. I really wanted that AnyLink module and needed another brick so it worked out to be just a tiny bit more to get the entire plane along with it. I also have a complete "parts airframe" so ultimately, this means I can experiment with impunity! =) |
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#177 | ||
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New Member
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I've been watching this thread with great interest. I appreciate all the great ideas.
I'm just about done with my FZ Dr1 repaint. I chose Lothar von Richtofen's markings. Paints are Model Master's Enamels. I've added a few details like the steps and lifting handles and details to the motor. DJ's cockpit details too. I still have the wing tip skids to add. This sure was a great flier before. I hope I haven't added too much weight. I guess I have to post a couple more times before I can ad a photo. ![]() Thanks again for the inspiration gentlemen! |
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#178 | ||
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Now a photograph!
Stripped the red off with blue tape on ghe wings, and debonder on the fuse. Dry brushed the green streaks then airbrushed on the yellow. Had no luck trying to print decals with ink-jet (then sealing). These are just on regular label material. I think I'll remove them though and try to figure out how to make good water slide decals. I have a selection of crosses I did and sized with PhotoShop. If anyone would like the file, I can send it to you. ![]() Here's a pic of the rotary. ![]() Intake manifolds came from old 1/32 scale radial engine exhaust manifold. Push rods are stretched sprue. I guess I should try a painted prop next. |
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#179 | ||
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Dope&Fabric
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Virginia/Delaware
Posts: 1,352
Thanked 82 Times in 76 Posts
Club: Mile High Club
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Very nice!!!!!!!!!!!
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#180 | ||
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Member
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Yes very nice mods Lucky Dog , looking great
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#181 | ||
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New Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: long island,ny
Posts: 19
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Club: long island silent flyers
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Friends: (1)
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#182 | ||
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Cheshire, UK
Posts: 789
Thanked 24 Times in 23 Posts
Club: A lone flyer!
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Very nice
but it would be even better if that Oberursel went round with the prop. ![]()
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#183 | ||
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Flying Fish
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You don't even have to use decal paper. You can use tissue paper. Look on the net to find how to articals to print on tissue paper.
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Now for my last stunt, a forward flip on landing.
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#184 | ||
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Thanks for the kind words and ideas. Actually, a second coat of sealer did the trick, and even though the blacks aren't as black as I'd prefer, I'm using the water slide decals. I do have some clear that I'll use for the serial number and weight table.
I've read some about printing on tissue, I'd like to try it sometime. I'm planning on doing an Albatros next with lozenge camo. |
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#185 | ||
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I crunched my rudder again being careless. Truthfully, It's very frail (I think) at the hinge. So, I'm trying to build a very light weight built up one using cane reed.
Soaked the reed for an hour or so then shaped it around a cardboard form, then let it dry overnight. ![]() Then added the ruder hinge area made from 1/64 balsa laminated cross grain with piece of old 5 1/4 floppy disc inserted for the hinge. Cross pieces are 1/32 balsa. ![]() I just wish I had a clue as to it's weight compared to the stock foam rudder. I have some small dia. CF rod that I could have used for the cross braces. I wonder if it would be significantly lighter? Here's a test fit before covering. The shape's not quite as a round as it should be.
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#186 | ||
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New Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: long island,ny
Posts: 19
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Club: long island silent flyers
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i also broke off the rudder, right after i finished the handles. i used a piece of old floppy disc to become the hinge-it is quite strong now. i've used the disc for one of my albatros rudders also.
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#187 | ||
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I must be doing something wrong then. When I've tried to CA (foam safe) the hinge using a pice of floppy, the whole area just seem to turn very soft.
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#188 | ||
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New Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Santa Barbara, CA
Posts: 5
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Hi, I just got a Dr.1 and couldn't be happier with it! It's a really fun little machine and handles great for a R/E/T. Took it out to the park tonight for the maiden and flew through three packs just goofing around. Really liked it, though I need to work on my WWI landing skills, to be sure
![]() Got a short video for anyone interested, filmed with my 808 #16 key fob camera mounted with velcro to the brim of my hat: http://vimeo.com/36942846 Steve |
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#189 | ||
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New Member
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I bailed on the idea of a built up rudder. Too heavy. Someone suggested a Styrofoam plate, (it's is just the right thickness) and made a new rudder.
I flew it Fri. in the small school gym our club flies in in the winter. It was very squirrely around the pitch axis. I assumed it was tail heavy and rigged a bigger battery fixed just behind the fake motor and it helped, but it still was not as docile as before. Not sure what the issue is. But I guess I should really check the balance. I suppose the top wing incidence could be off too.It did look nice in the air, and man will it turn on a dime, even with the slightly smaller rudder. I managed to bang it up by nose diving trying an Immelman too low. Some repairs to the motor needed. After 6-7 dis-assemblies now, it's starting to look a bit haggard. |
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#190 | ||
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 224
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
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LD-- You may need some parts: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...I=HCAA2555&P=Z
Or some foam to make new parts: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...3C%2FB%3E+foam I got one yesterday at the WRAM Show. Mike |
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#191 | ||
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New Member
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Hi Mike,
Thanks. I already ordered a set of tail feathers from Tower a while back when I broke the original rudder being careless. I just didn't want to have to again when I screwed up that one. Also, Tower still has the 1mm stuff on back order. The styro plate worked great.
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#192 | ||
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 224
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
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I've just begun experimenting with heat applied to Depron. I need a bit of inspiration to go further.
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#193 | ||
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New Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 1
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I hope someone could answer a question for me. I just bought the Tx-R version of this plane and I bind it to my Tactic TTX600 radio I already had. I want to move the rudder control from the left stick over to the right aileron stick as this is how I am used to flying and it is really awkward for me to fly with the rudder on the left instead of on the right stick. Is there a way to do this or must I get used to controlling left and right turns with the left stick. I hope this makes sense. Thanks!
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#194 | ||
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New Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 2
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#195 | ||
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New Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 2
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Originally Posted by Lucky Dog
GREAT WORK! Impressive the way you formed that. I"ve got to dig up an old floppy for my "floppy" tail wing as well.
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#196 | ||
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Flying Fish
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Now for my last stunt, a forward flip on landing.
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#197 | ||
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 31
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Originally Posted by Lucky Dog
have you tried Testors decal paper for inkjet printers?
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#198 | ||
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New Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 3
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Originally Posted by fast_dude2002
Did you ever get an answer to your question? I just got one of these and have the same problem except I'm just using an old jr Quattro tx I had laying around
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#199 | ||
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I think you turn the tx off, hold the right stick trim button down and turn the tx back on. Or is that for reversing? I'll try and see if I can duplicate. I had to use the Tactic a while ago when my 6Xi was in the shop.
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#200 | ||
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New Member
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My second Dr1 I'm going to do as 152/17. My Lothar Dr1 came out really heavy and flies poorly, so I figure 152/17 (only top wing, rudder, cowl and rear fuse is red) will be lighter.
So far I've only repainted the rudder and cowl (mostly to distinguish from other Dr1s flying in our small gym). The stock ones just fly so well, I putting off possibly screwing up a second one). ![]() Wheels I have found more scale size wheels. The stock FZ Dr1 uses the same wheels and the smaller scale Albatros. DuBro's microlite 1.5" wheels work well. I painted them gray to duplicate the synthetic rubber the Germans used. I used red wrapping paper for the wheel covers and attached with spray adhesive. The color was a near perfect match. Added weight was only 1g. No discernible difference in flight behavior. ![]()
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