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Old 10-16-2012, 04:08 AM   #1
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Default flyzone albatross motor problem

My new flyzone albatross flys well, but only for a minute or less. The problem ocurs with any battery(same batteries work fine in Nueport). Motor binding somehow? or defective? Any help appreciated.
George

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Old 10-26-2012, 02:01 PM   #2
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hello I need some info about thisa plane: what is the albatros motor?? is a coreless? 6,7,8 mm diam??? and what gearbox 3:1, 4:1??? and what prop?? thanks
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Old 10-26-2012, 06:10 PM   #3
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Sounds like a battery issue to me. The Albatross may be pulling more amps than the Nueport so the problem only shows up on the Albatross.

At least try a new good quality battery and see if it cures the problem.
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Old 10-27-2012, 11:32 PM   #4
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Default micro albatross

Sorry,no motor specifications were provided.


Good idea about the battery but it did not cure the problem.I opened up the fuselage to make sure there was no binding.It seemed to help but not enough. Must the motor or gearing.



thans,george

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Old 10-28-2012, 09:47 AM   #5
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Default

If it's not the bettery then I guess realistically that only leaves the motor. Those little 7mm brushed motors don't last very long so that could conceivably be the issue.

The motors are cheap so not a big deal to try one: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...P?I=LXCKWB&P=8
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Old 10-30-2012, 12:32 AM   #6
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Default albatross motor

I have ordered motors,gearboxes and props, I will see how it works out.

George
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Old 10-30-2012, 01:30 PM   #7
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I had similar problems with mine. Then the propeller fell off. Then it wouldn't bind to the the tx anymore. I took it back and got a refund.

Pete
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Old 10-31-2012, 07:53 AM   #8
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Default Flyzone Albatros motor problem

<My new flyzone albatross flys well, but only for a minute or less. The problem ocurs with any battery(same batteries work fine in Nueport). Motor binding somehow? or defective? Any help appreciated.>
George


George, I'm on my third Flyzone Albatros. (Note the German spelling, Guys.) This one flies great, BUT, I had a similar experience with a different ultra micro which makes me believe that your problem is with the TRANSMITTER! Here's why I say that:

My original TX worked like a champ for 8-10 flying sessions, then, one day, this foamie would launch normally and fly for about 40 yds only and then would slow down to the point where it would make a beautiful landing (even though I still held full throttle)! It had worked beautifully up to this point and even binded successfully to two spare fuselages (w/full electronics).

After the problem began, the TX then gradually lost ALL function on any of the three models. So, my experience at least began like yours.

Since you state that your Albatros is new, I suggest that you look for help under the warranty terms ..... check the mfr's manual. When you contact the distributor, you'll need to specify whether you have the RTF (w/the original TX) or the TX-R version (Tactic 2.4 gHz TX). You need to cite the Model No. on the carton.

The Hobbico Product Support people are knowlegeable and helpful.

I hope you get "out of the woods" on this and are able to enjoy your Albatros!

Virg.
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Old 10-31-2012, 11:55 PM   #9
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Default albatros motor

Thanks for the suggestion,but another transmitter did not help. I bought the model in february but did not fly it until recently,so I am fiddling with it myself. Motor shaft has shifted and I have lost the pinion gear.When new parts arrive I will replace motor and gearbox. These little micros are a fun change of pace.

George
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Old 11-01-2012, 03:44 AM   #10
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Default Albatros Motor

<These little micros are a fun change of pace.> With this attitude, you are going to enjoy this aspect of the hobby, George.

Looks like you have figured out your problem .... loss of the pinion gear. This'll require getting to the inside of the fuselage to access the motor and gearbox. I'd suggest that you do NOT follow the usuall advice of opening the fuselage by separating it along the side seams. On this biplane, there's the problem of the wings being tied to each other as well as to the fuselage. To take these apart is a bear unless you can separate the struts ONLY where they join the (white) unpainted bottom of the upper wing. This will avoid the unavoidable damage to the painted surfaces. You would then be able to separate the upper from the lower fuselage halves and have total access to all the innards.

My approach would be to cut a hatch at the nose. This would be glued back after your inside repairs, Any gaps would handled by using a foam filler and painting. This would avoid the hassle of removing the upper wing. Once back in the air, you'll really feel accomplished!

Keep us updated on your progress,

Virg.
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Old 11-08-2012, 12:21 AM   #11
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Default motor replacement

I have access ,but the next challenge will be dealing with the tiny wires .the new motors are probably at the PO,but since we live in the wilderness we only get there about once a week.

George
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Old 11-16-2012, 05:40 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by flyingbear View Post
I have access ,but the next challenge will be dealing with the tiny wires .the new motors are probably at the PO,but since we live in the wilderness we only get there about once a week.


No updates for 10 days! I'd like to know:

1.) How did you gain access to the electronics? a.) Removing the upper wing and separating the upper and lower fuselage halves, or, b.) cutting a hatch in the fuse?

2.) Did you receive shipment of the spare motors?

If you need help on soldering the new motor wires in, just ask. I may be the world's worst solderer, but I found a way to do this job without any harm to the foam parts!

Keep 'em flying,

Virg.
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Old 11-16-2012, 11:45 PM   #13
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I separated the halves and disconnected the struts from the lower wing,this gives reasonable access.Motors arrived promptly.

Any soldering advice will be welcome.

George
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Old 11-19-2012, 08:36 PM   #14
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Default Albatros motor replacement

<Any soldering advice will be welcome.>

George, I finally found time to take a stab at your request.

Unless you're at least a fair solderer, I'd start with an article on the subject through Google. Any one of these would be pretty much standalone. They all would probably contain the following:

- Bare the wire ends. (This would be fairly short on these tiny wires; about 3/16" is enough);
- Place a length of heat-shrink tubing over one of the wires for later use;
- Arrange the model on the bench so that you can extend the motor leads as far as possible to one side;
- Place foil around the adjacent fuselage parts to avoid heat from the soldering iron getting anywhere close to the foam parts;
- CRITICAL SUGGESTION: this is the hard part ..... You'll need a small block of wood, about 1/2" thick and tall enough to reach up to the extended motor leads. Cover the 1/2" upper edge with foil, taped onto the wood.
- TIN the two wire ends to be soldered. Tape down the two tinned ends on the wood, side by side, touching each other. Put flux on both wire tips. Put a small blob of hot solder on the iron and just TOUCH the two leads. The joint will sizzle and fizz for a second. When safely cooled, untape the new joint, slide the heat-shrink over the joint and shrink by just touching the material MOMENTARILY and REPEATEDLY until it shrinks O.K.

You'll find that trying to BARE these tiny wires is close to impossible. If no success, try BURNING the insulation off by just touching the end with the soldering iron.

Try the wood block trick unless you have a "third hand" gadget. One or the other is essential.

Keep giving us feedback as this discussion should be helpful to others working on their micros.

Keep 'em flying,

Virg.
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Old 11-22-2012, 11:15 PM   #15
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Default soldering tiny wires

Good ideas! I wiill try to get to it soon. Iwill report results.

George
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Old 11-26-2012, 12:11 AM   #16
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Default albatros motor

It is back together and check OK on the bench. Too windy to fly.Separating fuselage halves and disconnecting strut from lower wing worked well. Glued strut back,taped fus. with Blenderm tape in case I want to open again.Biggest problem was very short wires from ESC to old motor.Used locking tweezers and burned off insulation.Soldered and used shrink tube.Thanks for the help.Really to small for my big hands!
Is there a small or micro with ailerons?

George
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Old 11-26-2012, 05:36 AM   #17
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Talking Albatros Surgery

Originally Posted by flyingbear View Post
It is back together and check OK on the bench. Too windy to fly.Separating fuselage halves and disconnecting strut from lower wing worked well. Glued strut back,taped fus. with Blenderm tape in case I want to open again.Biggest problem was very short wires from ESC to old motor.Used locking tweezers and burned off insulation.Soldered and used shrink tube.Thanks for the help.Really to small for my big hands!
Originally Posted by flyingbear View Post
Is there a small or micro with ailerons?
O.K. on the bench, Eh? Let's hope that you have cured the problem for sure. These things can surprise you!

Ultra micros with ailerons? I don't think so, since only a small movement of the sticks already produces quite a change in flight direction or attitude. You could, though, search the internet under the two brand names that produce the bulk of ultra micros (UM's), namely PARKZONE & FLYZONE.

Since turning is already too twitchy with rudder only, why use ailerons? Maybe to stay level in crosswinds? With more experience, I find that I have ample control as is.

I think you'll find that the next largest foamies (parkflyers) sometimes have ailerons.
I have my eye on a Cessna 182 that has both ailerons and FLAPS (!),and spans about 37".

Enjoy these little buggers!

Virg.
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