Charged and discharged my trojan t28 stock lipo twice today!! Just charged it up and again it took only 20mins for the stock charger to show it was fully charged...Obviously a fault with either the battery or charger..Sent for a new battery yesterday so will see if that charges ok, if not it must be charger..Anyone recommend a good lipo charger??
I was putting my cub into the car yesterday morning when this guy who has lived 5 doors along from me for the last 20years stopped and asked me where i fly my plane,,Anyway to cut a long story short, 10 mins later iam standing in his garage surrounded by approx 15 planes..He is now learning me to fly(ive only been flying 3 weeks)..Hows that for a bit of luck..lol.cheers!
What is the voltage on the battery at the end of charge? (measured with DVM.) No reason to got to the field if the battery is not fully charged. You may want to get a cell checker - very convenient and cheap.
Also, what are you using for powering the charger?
I use a DVM to monitor the individual cell voltage whenever I check the pack voltage before and after each sortie and charging cycle.
I've been utilizing the Hobbico Accucycle Elite for over 2yrs to maintain my NiMh and LiPo packs. It is limited for max charging rate with both ports are in use but newer unit may differ to mine.
Flew a few sorties with the T28 and F4u this weekend and they looked great in the sky after looking at them in the hanger all winter and windy/wet spring.
A little rusty and unsure and a lot of skil...luck as well as reinforcement of the structural weak points made it survivable.
I hand launch and belly land on grass.
One aileron servo (stock)wasn't working but the control was deflected to max probably hit that arm on the last landing. I held the servo to the wing with my thumb while forcing the servo arm to neutral position.
It works smoothly with nor glitches/binding or damaged gears now after six sorties.
I've replaced both stock aileron servos with HS 56HB on my F4u.
Due to some very strange issues with my radio gear (Spektrum AR500) my Airforce T-28 Trojan has crashed twice as a direct result from radio not responding. I have thrown it away and gone back to Castle Creations BERG 4-Channel Super Narrow band DSP 72Mhz.
A few repairs to share with you all....:popcorn:
She took to the sky again!
Photo Credit by David Hart
I got to attend a fun-fly some time ago when a whole "squadron" of T-28's came in either the original "Navy orange/white" or the newer Air Force "gray" colors ... which made for some interesting formation flying . . . so I went online found a paint scheme I liked and broke out the air brush . . . I went to Lowe's for some "sample" paint cans . . . the reproduction is of a 1950's era Edwards AFB T-28A ... decals were provided by Cali-Grafix . . . I'm still trying to locate a more "scale" pilot figure bust . . . .
"Fires Fought - Tigers Tamed - Rebellions Quelled - Hums Eliminated - Short Circuits Lengthened"
and always remember : " Real Pilots Fly Taildraggers when they're not on a Harley ! "
I highly recommend to check the AMP draw of the combined servo duty current draw and look out for higher than normal AMP draws. This is useful to detect a servo going bad and as in my case a Push Rod with a sleeve getting hung on the wire! All of which has the potential in losing your model (Crash).
I will be using my Watt Meter.
My model has crashed twice citing RF loss (Spektrum AR500). I have investigated and found the possible reason!!! Can you believe that the Nose Wheel Steering Rod / Sleeve was not allowing the servo to move!! The Sleeve was getting hung on the metal rod itself like someone taking a HOT Hair Blower and heat shrinking the sleeve material! Of course that is just describing how it felt when I took off the Push Rod from the Servo and tried to push it myself by hand.
I bought the model used so, no telling...
Anyway, I looked in my hobby drawer and found a Park Zone Replacement for the Elevator and cut to size for Nose Wheel Steering duty and all is fine now!!
However, my thoughts are that the BEC on board the Stock Switch Mode 30-AMP E-Flite ESC got overheated as a result from holding Full Right Rudder to perform Knife Edges and Bang, lower Voltage or Brown out and lost RF!
Okay a few pictures!
Taking no chances, I opened up a brand new AR600 and it is working perfect! I will however, place the old AR500 in my Slow Stick and Observe it closely for any RF faults and which I seriously doubt I will have any issues.
Oh, my work with the Stock Motor!
This morning my model flew for the normal 7 minute flight and did not notice the bearing noise that much since it is at the lower RPMs.
The model performed flawlessly and those Knife Edges all around the field was spectacular as usual. No brown outs or loss of RF!
The landings (A few Touch & Goes) were completely successful and no issues with the Nose Wheel Steering.
Now that I have experienced the first broken nose gear steering arm (after the 12th landing) due to tall (clumpy) grass landings (and my lack of ability to land it spot on everytime).....I'm considering bumping up the size of the wheels.
The stock wheels work great on very short (1/2") grass and all hard pack surfaces, but I spend most of my time flying at soccer fields and open spaces where the ground keeping is not always predicatable.
I'm thinking that going to a 2.5" wheel will make a difference....the stock wheels are just shy of 2.0"......the question is where to find a light weight soft rubber wheel and hub that will fit the stock wire axle. Also, is it best to stay uniform and replace all the wheels rather than just the nose......?
I've done a little web searching but have come up with little that seem to be as light weight as the stock material.....?
I've got to believe you PZ Trojan guys have a few ideas.......and please, no "belly" landing suggestions........I do not hand launch or care to even consider such. The bird is designed to ROG and I like my foam and paint just as it is......lol
All is well.......I found both Dubro and GreatPlanes wheels (2.5" foam, solid hub) just a bit narrower than the 3/4" stock, at my favorite LHS, Hobbytown........may have to drill out a hair to fit axle (better than being to sloppy).......same price as on-line.
I'll give them a go.....hope it makes a difference (until my landing skills improve)......lol.
Got the Dubro 2.5" wheels installed. Looks a bit more scale than the stock wheels...added coppper tubing sleeve to hub to reduce axle slop. They spin pretty smooth but the additional hub width did not leave much axle thread for retainer nut, was able to get 4 turns and added thread lock. secured nicely.....haven't landing tested yet but taxi'd around the driveway without a hitch. I'll "brake" them in tomorrow morning....lol
What a difference the new wheels made on the bumpy turf this morning.......not only were the landings smoother, but I was able to both ROG and taxi after landings.....in grass an inch high. They didn't make any discernable difference in flight characteristics as well........now to able to land a little closer to my target space, but at least I don't have to hike 50yards to retreive her anymore.......lol
Just an amazing Saturday (02-06-2016) late morning in Central Florida! Kind of on the Chilly side for us warm blooded swap dwellers! However, we all came prepared with our Winter Clothes (Shorts, T-Shirts!)
Here is my buddy's, Gerry (simano) pictures showing my Continuous Knife Edge flight with my Park Zone T-28D "Airforce" Trojan all around the field.:p