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Old 11-29-2012, 06:36 AM   #1
kyleservicetech
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Default Kyleservicetechs Hanger 9 Katana model

Just picked up a Hanger 9 Katana 50 ARF model airplane for electric conversion.

This model has 59 inch wingspan, 825 square inches, and a 58 inch long fuse. The weight of all the model parts (without radio equipment or electric power equipment) comes out to 63 ounces.

Power will be a 6S2P A123 battery pack, Hacker A50-12S with a 15X10 APC-E prop, and a Castle Creations 80 Amp Phoenix ICE ESC, parts that I all ready have on hand, ready to go.

Since the model is designed for a Power 52 electric motor, a little conversion was required to mount the Hacker motor. The Hacker motor is about 3/8 inch to long, so the motor plywood mount had to be shortened by 3/8 inch.

From first appearances, model is very well designed. It should an excellent medium sized model for one Kilowatt electric power. WWW.motocalc.com predicts 1200 watts, 7740 RPM on the 15X10 prop, 73 MPH blade pitch speed, and a rate of climb of 2800 Feet per minute, straight up.

Photos will be presented as the conversion is in progress.

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Old 11-29-2012, 11:43 AM   #2
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Old 11-29-2012, 11:04 PM   #3
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Old 12-08-2012, 08:30 PM   #4
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Default Hanger 9 Kantana Update

The Kantana model is finished, and ready to fly. Only problem is it's raining outside, 34 degrees F, and not looking good for the next week. This model is one of the best models I've converted to electric power, with lots of room for the motor/esc/6S2P A123 battery pack. The photos show just how much room is left inside the model. The finished weight is 7.6 pounds. Might have been able to save about 6 ounces by using a LiPo battery, but to me, the extremely long life of the A123 batteries, along with zero risk of fire hazard makes it worthwhile.

Figure #6 shows the built up 6S2P A123 pack with the Anderson Power Pole connector and my balance connector both CA'd to a piece of 1/8 inch 5 ply plywood. The whole battery is covered with one of those 2 liter soda bottles. The A123 cell supplier is www.voltmanbatteries.com.

The Hacker A50-12S motor turns the 15X10 APC-E prop at 7540 RPM, pulling 1130 watts, 65 Amps and 17.3 Volts out of the 6S2P A123 battery pack. That works out to 148 watts per pound.

The receiver/servo power is derived both from the Castle Creations 80 Amp ICE ESC and its built in switch mode BEC, plus a CC 10 Amp uBEC. These two supplies are programmed for 6.4 VDC and are isolated from each other with two 10 Amp Schottky diodes in the red leads of each unit.

A few minor changes were made to the assembly of this model. The rudder pull - pull cable connection was changed to a metal clevis as shown in the photos. The cable was pulled through the clevis, and a brass piece of tubing was crimped over the wire. (A high quality crimper was used, NOT just a pair of side cutters!)

Two standard sized servos were used in the two elevators, mostly because the recommended servos were not in stock anywhere. This required opening up the servo location in the fuse. One very good tool for doing this type of balsa surgery is one of those Craftsman "Multi-tool" or similar type of power tool. This tool makes it easy to make accurate square cuts through balsa, plywood, you name it.

Note the split black tubing found at Ace hardware for the wire conduits in the fuse. Those pieces of split tubing were glued in place by small drops of hot melt glue. That split tubing helps clean up the cabling appearance of the finished model.

The LCD display in figure 6 is my flight monitor that counts total flights, total ampere hours, total flying time in hours, minutes, seconds, and either the current amps pulled by the motor when it's running, or current ampere hours on the battery pack when the motor is not running.

Note the "wings" added to the rudder servo. These wings are superglued to the round servo disk, and pinned in place by short pieces of solid copper wire. The whole thing is CA'd in place. I'd NEVER use this on an elevator or aileron servo, but it seems strong enough. (The hobby shop was out of the long servo arms.)

I'm debating about the wheel pants, our flying field is grass, and other club members have had issues with wheel pants on our field.

Take a look at the attached photos.


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Old 12-08-2012, 11:36 PM   #5
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Hi Denny Nice Job I Would not trust that rudder servo arm, that looks like a weak link to me, if anything, use a piece of aluminum straight across with a hole in the middle and drill 2 holes for mounting screws to the round servo attachment, CA does not work well on servo arm plastic, it will just peel off, look around for a long servo arm, what servo are you using, I will look for one for you, Take care, Chellie

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Old 12-08-2012, 11:45 PM   #6
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Denny a Futaba servo arm is compatible with the Savox servo

SC-0254MG Servo


Technical data
  • Classification: Standard (20mm) (0.79in)
  • Dimensions (Length x Width x Height) approx.: 40.7 x 20.0 x 39.4mm (1.6 x 0.79 x 1.55in)
  • Weight approx.: 49g (1.73oz)
  • Operating voltage: 4.8V to 6.0V
  • Regulating time for 60░ at 4.8V / 6.0V approx.: 0.19s / 0.14s
  • Pulling load at 4.8V / 6.0V approx.: 62Ncm / 72Ncm
  • Holding force at 4.8V / 6.0V approx.: No information
  • Pulse width at servo middle position approx.: 1500Ás
  • Pulse repetition max.: 70Hz
  • No-load current at 4.8V / 6.0V approx.: 6mA / 6mA
  • Blocking current at 4.8V / 6.0V approx.: 1.3A / 1.5A
  • Number ball bearings: 2
  • Motor type: Brush motor
  • Material gear: Metal gear
  • Material servo chassis: synthetic
  • Length connection cable approx.: 300mm
  • Compatible servo arms: Futaba

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Old 12-08-2012, 11:50 PM   #7
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http://www.chiefaircraft.com/han-3577.html





4-40 3D Extra Long Futaba Full Servo Arm


Item: HAN 3577
Price: $12.95

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Old 12-09-2012, 12:52 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by CHELLIE View Post
Hi Denny Nice Job I Would not trust that rudder servo arm, that looks like a weak link to me, if anything, use a piece of aluminum straight across with a hole in the middle and drill 2 holes for mounting screws to the round servo attachment, CA does not work well on servo arm plastic, it will just peel off, look around for a long servo arm, what servo are you using, I will look for one for you, Take care, Chellie
Hi Chellie
Yeah, that piece of aluminum looks like good idea. At least until I can get to the hobby shop 20 miles away and see what they have in stock now.

Those "ears" are both glued and fastened with a piece of solid copper wire soldered on the bottom side. I put about 20 pounds of force on that servo arm, but still

That's why the metal clevis was used. The original was a simple loop of the pull cable through a hole in the servo arm. Not adjustable!

As you indicated, the servo arm used came from my Futaba stock.

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Old 12-09-2012, 02:13 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by CHELLIE View Post
Hi Denny Nice Job I Would not trust that rudder servo arm, that looks like a weak link to me, if anything, use a piece of aluminum straight across with a hole in the middle and drill 2 holes for mounting screws to the round servo attachment, CA does not work well on servo arm plastic, it will just peel off, look around for a long servo arm, what servo are you using, I will look for one for you, Take care, Chellie
Good idea
I've got a lot of circuit board fiberglass sheet around, so one was chopped up and attached with a pair of 2-56 screws. Those 2-56 nuts were CA'd with super thin CA and treated like a rivet with a hammer. They will never come loose.

New photo attached.


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Old 12-09-2012, 04:28 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by kyleservicetech View Post
Good idea
I've got a lot of circuit board fiberglass sheet around, so one was chopped up and attached with a pair of 2-56 screws. Those 2-56 nuts were CA'd with super thin CA and treated like a rivet with a hammer. They will never come loose.

New photo attached.
Perfect Now i can sleep tonight LOL, Take care and have fun, Chellie


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Old 12-10-2012, 09:46 PM   #11
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Default More flights on the Kantana

The Kantana now has 24 flights on it, and it's getting more fun to fly with each flight.

Rock solid in acrobatics, and on a windless day, can land the model tail wheel first without the model snapping all over the place.

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Old 01-11-2013, 01:43 AM   #12
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Default Hanger 9 Katana 9 Maiden Flights

I just did the maiden flights on my Hanger 9 Kantana model with 850 Square inch wing, 8 pounds weight, and powered by a Hacker A50-12S motor. The motor uses a 16X8 APC-E propeller, and a 6S2P A123 battery pack. That A123 pack would be similar to a LiPo 4400 Mah battery pack with five cells.

With this setup, the motor pulled 62 Amps on the ground, with 16.9 Volts and 1130 watts. The motor turned that 16 inch propeller at 7500 RPM on the ground. The Castle Creations ESC flight data was downloaded, it showed the current dropped to about 37 amps at wide open throttle, turning the prop at 8200 RPM.

This power system hauls that model straight up, and keeps going. The Kantana is a very nice model, and is very easy to convert to electric power.

As indicated before, this Katana model is a very easy conversion to electric power. It is fully acrobatic, and will do just about anything you desire. My first flights were with the ailerons at about 60% on the dual rates. This was way to sensitive for my tastes. More expo (40%) made it more reasonable. At full recommended aileron though, this model rotated at over two revolutions per second.

The temperature at the field was 41 degrees F, with winds at 10-15 MPH. Stalling is a non-issue, the model would stay controllable at low throttle and 50% up elevator. Nice.


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Old 04-01-2013, 03:04 AM   #13
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Default Katana four more flights

We finally got rid of the snow on our club's flying field, even though the ground is frozen solid.

So, on 03-22-13, put four more flights on the Katana. The original prop was a 16X8 that worked OK. So, a 16X10 was put on the Hacker A50-12S motor.

This motor pulled 65 Amps as measured with my Craftsman digital clamp on ammeter. The CC ICE ESC information was downloaded after the flights, and results match the Craftsman #82369 meter.
The ICE download info is below:
On Takeoff
RPM=6900, Amps = 79A, Watts=1320W, Batt Volts = 16.1

On level full throttle flight:
RPM=7500, Amps = 57A, Watts=970W, Batt Volts = 16.8V

The motor was cold after landing, but it was only 48F outside that day.

Going from the 16X8 to the 16X10 prop made a very substantial difference in motor amps and watts on level full throttle flight, up from about 37 Amps or so to 57 Amps. Right now, I'm running a 15X10 APC-E prop, but might go back to the 16X10 when the weather warms up. Seems to me, the hotter weather affects the propeller and it's pulling power.

With this model running at 160 Watts per pound, it flew very well with a 20 foot take off to vertical flight out of sight.

The model absolutely HAD to have a pilot, so unfortunately, one was added!


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