I've been trying to find some thin balsa ply to skin it with, and if I can keep the overall weight down, I was thinking of doing a setup like the EFlite Albatross, i.e., a receiver brick, and just have elevator/rudder, and a small gearbox setup like the 'tross has, or maybe that setup with a bigger motor, I dunno, or maybe just a nice static model to go with the others...
"Skinning" i.e. inlaying with little fitted pieces of sheet balsa glued between stringers and formers will make the finished model look good but adds a lot of weight in glue and balsa. If you complete this as a display-only model (highly recommended), inlaying is good, use sandable aliphatic wood glue. For covering, use light weight silkspan and adhere covering with a glue stick or paint water thinned aliphatic glue to framework, let dry, and adhere it with a covering iron. Trying to discourage a first time Guillows conversion is often not worth it. You will learn things either way.
Inlay...hmm...didn't think of that method, I was just going to cut sheets to form, and just glue that over the frame, with maybe some colored plastic sheet for looks, but yeah, I do agree it's gonna be way too heavy to fly, so it'll go on the shelf with the other statics. Would be kool though...my Dad would certainly look down with a bit of pride that at least ONE of his kids followed in his steps...
Also occurs to me that one option (not that I'm going to) is a Cox .049 glow motor, but I believe that setup is for a tether line flying arrangement with no control surfaces...kinda like the Cox P51 I used to have, and if memory serves that plane had elevator...
Beginning builders/flyers get all glassy-eyed looking at Guillows kit box art and think that converting one to electric RC will be cheap and easy and that model will fly well. They can be converted and fly well if you have done it a number of times and developed the skills to choose the light enough power and RC gear, mount things to minimize tail heaviness/need for nose weight, and have developed the quick reflexes to get you through the maiden flight without re-kitting. It is far better to choose a larger model designed for electric powered RC, follow the recommendations for motor and battery to use, and build it light and straight for better chance of sucess.
See "Pat's Custom Models" website for examples, building tips, and links to detailed build threads on RCG Scale electric plane forum.
There is also a "sticky" on the RCG Scale Electric Plane forum with links to hundreds of Guillows and other rubber kit conversions
There are a ton of kit's that make for rubber to R/C conversions, below is a .jpg of my latest addition to the fleet. While they take more time to build up and think out the linkage set up than the standard PNP kit. The fumes from the dope need to be vented or you get complaints at home. They also take up alot less room than the standard kit. If a mistake is made, no biggie, just cut it out and start again When you show up at the next meet, your the only one flying one like it. This one uses the motor and electronics from the micro P-51 and flys like a champ. Just pay attention to the balance points on the blue prints and have fun.
PS: Note that Capt RJM used an ultra light RC and power system as well as very light building and covering techniues, he's no beginner. Sig 29'er is good as a fun rubber powered indoor free-flight model. Grandson and I built a pair and had a lot of fun flying them indoors.