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Old 12-17-2012, 06:36 PM   #1
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Default E flite apprentice battery removal

Im not sure about others that have this plane or if this is how most planes are but when trying to unplug the lipo from the plane its really hard to do it without pulling the wires from the esc. I understand you want a tight battery connection and you dont want it coming loose but its so tight that when i remove it im afraid somethings going to break.
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Old 12-17-2012, 07:05 PM   #2
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I just use better connectors (better for me) that are easier to separate.

Anderson Power Poles for me...

Mike
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Old 12-17-2012, 08:17 PM   #3
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Yes, those stock plugs are brutal. I put some creatively installed zip-ties for a while, so they were like rings you could pull on. Went to Deans eventually.
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Old 12-17-2012, 11:19 PM   #4
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I would like a nice tight fit better than a loose one so if its hard to get apart it must make good contact . joe
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Old 12-17-2012, 11:26 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by road king 97 View Post
I would like a nice tight fit better than a loose one so if its hard to get apart it must make good contact . joe
But that is simply not true. APP's work wonderfully and are very easy to separate.

I watched a guy DESTROY his plane getting overheated Deans ultras apart.

Just sayin'

Mike
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Old 12-18-2012, 12:15 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by rcers View Post
But that is simply not true. APP's work wonderfully and are very easy to separate.

I watched a guy DESTROY his plane getting overheated Deans ultras apart.

Just sayin'

Mike
My sons aprentice does not have deans plugs on it from the factory it has those two round plug thingys .lol If the deans plug over heated it had a bad conection to begin with and got worce ,might have even melted together. My van melted a plug from a bad conection for my heating fan and i had to rewire it . I have never seen a (real) deans plug go bad but after my van fried its plug it would no surprize me. joe
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Old 12-18-2012, 12:55 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by road king 97 View Post
My sons aprentice does not have deans plugs on it from the factory it has those two round plug thingys .lol If the deans plug over heated it had a bad conection to begin with and got worce ,might have even melted together. My van melted a plug from a bad conection for my heating fan and i had to rewire it . I have never seen a (real) deans plug go bad but after my van fried its plug it would no surprize me. joe
The EC3's are terrible - and as the OP points hard hard to separate. The Dean's issue was from overheating, then misshaping them when soldering (in his case). Many don't know how to properly solder and heat stuff up way too much.

Deans Ultra's are great but the just needed some grips. There is no question they are good connectors. But so are APP's and I can separate them with one hand.

Try that with Deans or EC3's. And I will put a properly crimped APP against any top connector for draw usage too. They have great surface area but a good design allows them to separate easily.

Mike
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Old 12-18-2012, 12:57 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by rcers View Post
I just use better connectors (better for me) that are easier to separate.

Anderson Power Poles for me...

Mike
Agreed:
Anderson Power Poles are good, but these Anderson's are even better.
http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=64539

(I've got both in my connector inventory)

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Old 12-18-2012, 01:19 AM   #9
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I have had one set of deans plugs that were tuff to get apart but the rest of mine are not that bad. I see some using electrical lube to make it easy and some drill a hole in each side of the contected plug for a set of snap ring plyers to go into and then its easy to get them apart . Most of the guys i have seen switch over to other plugs just dont want to solder or cant. I have all my esc's and battery packs set up with deans and iam not changing them all now. joe
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Old 12-18-2012, 01:57 AM   #10
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Buy a set of snap ring pliers. Very easy- several members in my club have since purchased.
http://www.harborfreight.com/snap-ri...eads-3316.html
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Old 12-18-2012, 05:14 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by road king 97 View Post
I have had one set of deans plugs that were tuff to get apart but the rest of mine are not that bad. I see some using electrical lube to make it easy and some drill a hole in each side of the contected plug for a set of snap ring plyers to go into and then its easy to get them apart . Most of the guys i have seen switch over to other plugs just dont want to solder or cant. I have all my esc's and battery packs set up with deans and iam not changing them all now. joe
Yup
For other wattflyer readers, once you have the Anderson Power Pole connectors and the $39 crimper that goes with them, installing those connectors on their respective wires takes perhaps 30 seconds each.

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Old 12-18-2012, 11:33 AM   #12
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Yep I agree and can have a half dozen pairs of Anderson's on before your iron is hot.
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Old 12-18-2012, 05:17 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by rcers View Post
Yep I agree and can have a half dozen pairs of Anderson's on before your iron is hot.
LOL, but true.

A club member who admits to being not happy while using a soldering iron, picked up the Anderson Power Pole connectors and their crimper.

He just removed all his Deans connectors and replaced all of them with the Andersons.

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Old 12-18-2012, 06:59 PM   #14
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I use only XT60 connectors. Similar current capacity and size to Deans but easier to get a hold of and separate and a little easier to solder. Nice and cheap too.
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Old 12-18-2012, 09:56 PM   #15
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Yes, the EC3 connectors (blue) are hard to get apart sometimes. Personally I only plug mine in about 3/4 of the way in and they are pretty secure. I have never had them separate during a flight. All my planes except my AXN Floater Jet have the EC3 connectors. My AXN has Deans, but I have an adapter that allows me to use my EC3 equipped batteries in it.
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Old 12-19-2012, 10:05 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Chucksolo69 View Post
Yes, the EC3 connectors (blue) are hard to get apart sometimes. Personally I only plug mine in about 3/4 of the way in and they are pretty secure. I have never had them separate during a flight. All my planes except my AXN Floater Jet have the EC3 connectors. My AXN has Deans, but I have an adapter that allows me to use my EC3 equipped batteries in it.
Every one has the one's they like or stuck with because they have so many planes and battery packs set up with them . Happy holidays guys . joe


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Old 12-21-2012, 05:25 AM   #17
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I actually like the ec3 connectors, and they are compatable with tx60's I believe, I that's the style hobby king used to sell. I made a couple of adaptars for my 1300mah park zone battery's to deans.

After shopping at heads up, they use deans on the esc's and battery's, so I converted everything to deans, and I don't have too many problems. They can be a bear to solder with a 30watt iron though.
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Old 12-21-2012, 01:03 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by hayofstacks View Post
I actually like the ec3 connectors, and they are compatable with tx60's I believe, I that's the style hobby king used to sell. I made a couple of adaptars for my 1300mah park zone battery's to deans.

After shopping at heads up, they use deans on the esc's and battery's, so I converted everything to deans, and I don't have too many problems. They can be a bear to solder with a 30watt iron though.
Go to a 50 watt and keep the tip clean and your soldering will go smoooooth. joe
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Old 12-21-2012, 07:11 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by road king 97 View Post
Go to a 50 watt and keep the tip clean and your soldering will go smoooooth. joe
Or, even better, go to a 100 watt TEMPERATURE REGULATED soldering iron. They are an order of magnitude better than those unregulated irons that overheat when not used, burning up the tip, or "underheat" when soldering something heavy duty.

Take a look:
http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=59884







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Old 12-21-2012, 08:33 PM   #20
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I had a nicer iron and a gun, but burned them both up. A 30w iron isn't too bad if you have patience, but a good iron really is night and day.
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Old 12-21-2012, 08:41 PM   #21
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I use EC3 connectors on eveything. I find these very simple to solder and put together. I do agree that the real E-Flite / Parkzone connetors are really tight. I use the ones from HobbyKing. They work just as well, but require just a little less force to connect and disconnect. Never had an issue with the these in the 3 years I have been using them. My planes have 2 to 4 cell power setups and the max current is around 35 amps on any plane.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...airs_set_.html

It is a pain that there is no standard power connector.

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Old 12-22-2012, 12:17 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by hayofstacks View Post
I had a nicer iron and a gun, but burned them both up. A 30w iron isn't too bad if you have patience, but a good iron really is night and day.
Yeah
That is a big difference between a plain old soldering iron and one that is temperature regulated.

Those regulated units don't overheat, and burn up the tip.

And, I do have an assortment of soldering irons. Take a look at the attached files. IMHO, those soldering iron guns are not worth buying. In fact where I worked before retiring they were not allowed for use in the production lines.

The second photo shows the two irons used for 99.9% of my soldering work. A Weller 40 watt temperature regulated soldering iron, and a Weller 100 watt temperature regulated soldering iron. Both of these units heat up in about one minute, ready to go. That Weller 40 watt temperature regulated soldering iron was used on the production lines at work by the dozens. Most of them were powered up 8 hours a day, and would last for a year or more before the handset had to be replaced. Mine is six years old, and its gone through about 4 soldering iron tips during that time. (Those tips are iron plated)


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Old 12-22-2012, 03:28 AM   #23
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Another vote for APPs. I also use them on HAM radio gear.
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Old 12-22-2012, 05:48 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by MX5Seeker View Post
Another vote for APPs. I also use them on HAM radio gear.
My only complaint about those APP connectors, their red and black plastic housings tend to separate from each other after a lot of use.

So, a permanent cure when first building them up, is to put a tiny drop of super thin CA between the two plastic housings. With this, they will NOT come apart!

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Old 12-24-2012, 02:39 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by kyleservicetech View Post
My only complaint about those APP connectors, their red and black plastic housings tend to separate from each other after a lot of use.

So, a permanent cure when first building them up, is to put a tiny drop of super thin CA between the two plastic housings. With this, they will NOT come apart!
I actually put a drop or two of hot glue through the hole they have for the "pin". Holds them well and I can always scrape or drill it out.
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