Battery connections

[dheaton]

This is a battery from a plane that I already have flying and the speed control that I have for a new plane. The connectors are a different type. Is there a connection piece that can go between the two that will work? Or should I just buy another battery maybe a lipo with the correct connection?

[earthsciteach]

Don't buy another battery! You can easily replace the connector or make an adapter.
There is no standard connector and everyone has their preference of which type to use.

The blue connector is an EC3. The other one is, um, well it sort of looks like a modified EC3 to me. Are you sure they don't fit together? (Don't mean to insult with a stupid question.)

You will need a solder iron and solder to replace any connector. If you don't have one, you can pick one up for a few bucks at radio shack or large hardware store. Please go online and google "soldering LiPo battery connectors," or something of the sort. There is a bit of a technique and care must be taken not to allow the battery or esc to overheat with soldering. That said, it really isn't complicated.

You'll want to standardize your connector type. I use Dean's connectors. They aren't my favorite, but all my flying friends use them, so it allows me to mooch off of their batteries! The EC3 connector is fine and comes on the ParkZone planes. There is also the XT-60 which Hobbyking ships with their batteries.

Choice is up to you!

[xmech2k]

If you have a local hobby shop nearby, you can check if they have prefabricated adapter cables, or you could make one of your own. The one on the left looks like the E-Flite EC?(3,5?). I think the one on the right is known as a JXT. Be careful with those guys. I know this guy who found it was easy to connect those with reverse polarity and fry all your electric retracts...

Some people complain that there is too much of a power loss due to added resistance of the additional plugs in an adapter cable, but I think unless you're pylon racing or have a giant edf or something, it should be negligible. I have one in at least one of my planes.

[JetPlaneFlyer]

Check the Blue one, it's an EC connector of some type, probably an EC3. The name will be marked on the plastic

The red one looks like an HXT, but it seems shorter than the typical HXT, or it could be an EC3 copy.

You might find an adapter somewhere but far and away the best fix is to standardise on one connector for all your models and just cut off the other connector and solder on the type you want. Soldering is a must have skill if you fly electric.

[earthsciteach]

Hey, xmech-were you spying on me that day I made that universal adapter and neglected to remember that I had to reverse polarity on one of the connectors to make it work?

POOF!

[xmech2k]

Those guys are right. I think the jxt is a tiny connector. Duh!

Anyways, here's a site that is a wonderland of connectors:

E-Power

They might have the adapter you're looking for, or will have the parts you need to make them the same. I didn't care much for the E-Flite connectors because they were so hard to separate. If you do decide to start soldering, I HIGHLY recommend that Dr. Marty's no-clean flux they sell on that E-Power site I linked. Works great! (No, I'm not affiliated with them in any way!)

[xmech2k]

Originally Posted by earthsciteach

Hey, xmech-were you spying on me that day I made that universal adapter and neglected to remember that I had to reverse polarity on one of the connectors to make it work?

POOF!

LOL! Nope. I did the one I quoted above myself to a P-51, then I made an extension and reversed polarity on on end like you mentioned for my Skyray. Lucky I didn't fry anything in the Skyray... I noticed when the wires started getting real hot real fast when I plugged it in!

[xmech2k]

All this talk of soldering, but what's that connector that you only need to buy a ~$30 crimper and no need to solder? I've seen some guys who know way more about this stuff than I do raving about them, and I may change over myself. Hopefully one of those smart guys will chime in here.

[JetPlaneFlyer]

99% sure that the red one in a 3.5mm HXT:


you would be hard pushed to find a proprietary EC3 to 3.5mm HXT adapter (with correct gender at both ends). Chop and solder is your best bet.

[JetPlaneFlyer]

Originally Posted by xmech2k

All this talk of soldering, but what's that connector that you only need to buy a ~$30 crimper and no need to solder? I've seen some guys who know way more about this stuff than I do raving about them, and I may change over myself. Hopefully one of those smart guys will chime in here.

That would be Anderson Power Poles. they are good connectors but physically very big, over 40mm (1 1/2") long for a single 30Amp connector, so fitting in smaller models could be a problem.

[dgjessing]

Originally Posted by xmech2k

All this talk of soldering, but what's that connector that you only need to buy a ~$30 crimper and no need to solder?

Soldered joints are much better than crimped in pretty much every way...

[kyleservicetech]

Originally Posted by dheaton

This is a battery from a plane that I already have flying and the speed control that I have for a new plane. The connectors are a different type. Is there a connection piece that can go between the two that will work? Or should I just buy another battery maybe a lipo with the correct connection?

For the somewhat larger models, those Anderson Power Pole connectors work pretty well. They can be simply crimped, making assembly a very quick project:

http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=46890

[xmech2k]

Originally Posted by JetPlaneFlyer

That would be Anderson Power Poles. they are good connectors but physically very big, over 40mm (1 1/2") long for a single 30Amp connector, so fitting in smaller models could be a problem.

Darn! There's always a trade-off!

[kyleservicetech]

Originally Posted by dgjessing

Soldered joints are much better than crimped in pretty much every way...

Need to digress here

Most any company that has done quality control studies on soldered terminals versus crimped terminals have found that PROPERLY crimped connections are more reliable, and have lower overall resistance.
http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=46890

But a crimped terminal can not be simply un-soldered and reused like a soldered connection.

As for the Anderson Power Pole connectors, we used them for decades at work, by the thousands every month. Very few if any problems with them. Those connectors we used at work were of a higher quality than the "Anderson Power Pole" connectors though.

Take a look:
http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=64539

[dheaton]

Yes, you are right the blue one is an EC3. I didn't even look to see if it was on the side and it is. The red one has no markings and does not fit the ec3 connector. The red one is on the end of a new Super Tigre Electric power 20A speed control. Hmm just noticed that is says on the esc "2-35 Lipo-2A BEC. Does that mean it needs to be hooked to a Lipo battery? The battery that I have came with my Super Cub and is a 11.1v 1300mah 15c.

Originally Posted by earthsciteach

Don't buy another battery! You can easily replace the connector or make an adapter.
There is no standard connector and everyone has their preference of which type to use.

The blue connector is an EC3. The other one is, um, well it sort of looks like a modified EC3 to me. Are you sure they don't fit together? (Don't mean to insult with a stupid question.)

You will need a solder iron and solder to replace any connector. If you don't have one, you can pick one up for a few bucks at radio shack or large hardware store. Please go online and google "soldering LiPo battery connectors," or something of the sort. There is a bit of a technique and care must be taken not to allow the battery or esc to overheat with soldering. That said, it really isn't complicated.

You'll want to standardize your connector type. I use Dean's connectors. They aren't my favorite, but all my flying friends use them, so it allows me to mooch off of their batteries! The EC3 connector is fine and comes on the ParkZone planes. There is also the XT-60 which Hobbyking ships with their batteries.

Choice is up to you!

[dheaton]

Thanks everyone for all the help. I am new to electrics and there is a lot to learn. Sense most of what I have uses the Ec3 connectors I guess I will cut the end of the battery and go with that one. Does anyone have a link to the soldering guides suggested above? I am not that good at it but I have done it some.

[JetPlaneFlyer]

This one is quite good, it's for motor bullet connectors but the EC3 are basically the same connector with a plastic case:

YouTube Video

[gramps2161]

You can cut the housing down in size if you need to. I learned this from a video on youtube.
Here are a couple of pics there is a indent on one side of the housing. You need to cut it just before the indent. After you assemble the connecter into the housing use a little hot glue to help support the wire. I used a little CA when connecting the red and black together not much is left to slide them together.
I love these connecters and they are all I use now.

[kyleservicetech]

Originally Posted by dheaton

Thanks everyone for all the help. I am new to electrics and there is a lot to learn. Sense most of what I have uses the Ec3 connectors I guess I will cut the end of the battery and go with that one. Does anyone have a link to the soldering guides suggested above? I am not that good at it but I have done it some.

Take a look at a soldering info site I just posted:
http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/show...786#post893786

[xuzme720]

One thing to remember, never ever cut both wires at the same time! Your cutters will short the battery and you can get a nasty flash burn not to mention probably destroying the battery.

[Stevephoon]

Here's the horizon hobby instructions and video. This is how I solder these and build the connector.

http://www.horizonhobby.com/article/...-assembly-tips



Steve

[riverrat]

Guys

http://thejigsup.net/

Someone here posted one
of these a few months ago.

Just the trick for these old
fat fingers!

Regards
Jimmy

[dgholmes59]

Originally Posted by xuzme720

One thing to remember, never ever cut both wires at the same time! Your cutters will short the battery and you can get a nasty flash burn not to mention probably destroying the battery.

+1

Don't overlook this post!! Very IMPORTANT! Didn't take me long to learn this lesson. LOL

There are many great videos on Youtube for soldering connectors.

[kyleservicetech]

Originally Posted by dgholmes59

+1

Don't overlook this post!! Very IMPORTANT! Didn't take me long to learn this lesson. LOL

There are many great videos on Youtube for soldering connectors.

Fifty years ago, when my wife and I were first married, we lived in an apartment where the landlord added 120 VAC outlets by nailing television antenna twin wire to the wall and hooking them up to the outlets. That was illegal as heck, and was a real fire hazard.

I watch this guy cut both wires at the same time with a wire cutters while the power was on. We moved out of that fire trap apartment two weeks later. Never did use those outlets.

[E-Challenged]

I use male and female Deans Ultra connectors from the hobby shop for battery packs and speed controls. The male one goes onto the two speed control wires, the female one goes onto the two battery pack wires. ( Get this right) Deans Ultra terminals are arranged like a "T". Top of the T goes to the (red) positive wires and the other goes to the (black) negative wires. Deans connectors come with heat shrink tubing to insulate the finished soldered connections. I use a pair of vice grips to lightly grip and hold the Deans connector body during soldering. Cut off the old battery connector one wire at a time so you don't short the wires. Strip about 1/4 " of insulation off one of the battery wires. Slide heat shrink tubing onto wire toward the battery. "Tin" the wire, i.e. fill the strands with molten solder and let cool. Next apply a little solder puddle to each of the connector terminals.. Hold the wire against the terminal and reflow the solder and let the solder bond the wire and terminal, remove heat as soon as solder has flowed and hold wire steady as solder solidifies.Check connection for smooth solder flow. Slide tubing over the connection and shrink with a heat gun as used to shrink model covering. Strip and tin other battery wire, slide on heat shrink tubing,( be careful not to short terminals with iron tip or solder) solder wire to other terminal, position tubing over connection and shrink with heat gun.

I prefer a simple 37-47 watt soldering iron with replaceable flat sided tip for connector soldering. Buy 60/40 or 63/37 tin/lead alloy "leaded" electronic rosin core solder. DO NOT BUY "LEAD FREE" solder, it takes a lot more heat to flow and gives poor results. I also use a little rosin type paste flux for most soldering. Solder guns are hard to use and control for small soldering jobs. A little extra dab of soldering flux helps solder flow easily. Keep wiping the iron tip to keep it bright and shiny free of blackish oxidation which retards solder flow.

The trick to any connector soldering is to get a small bridge of solder to conduct heat from the iron tip to the wire and terminal. Wire and terminal must be hot enough for solder to melt and bond the two together with low electrical resistance. When wire and terminal are hot enough feed in only enough solder to bond the wire and terminal together smoothly.

There is a pretty good Deans Ultra soldering video on You Tube by Lucien Miller who sells Scorpion brushless motors etc. on his website, Innov8tive Designs. Connector soldering is hard to describe in words, easier to understand on videos.