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Old 12-29-2012, 01:47 PM   #1
Noahsark6
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Default Mis-alligned Cessna 182 flaps/rudder

Hi
I received a cessna 182 for christmas. After many hours trying to figure out the horrendous instructions i finally assembled it. However, the flaps aren't in-line with the ailerons, one is too raised and one too low. The rudder is also to one side. I've tried adjusting it with trim but it is still off centre. So, my question is:
How can I manually move the flaps/rudder and make them stay there without them springing back?

Thanks alot
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Old 12-29-2012, 03:33 PM   #2
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Not knowing what plane you have this is a wild guess. There should be adjustments on the linkages that you can use to center your control surfaces. Then use your Transmitter trims for flight adjustment.
Henry
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Old 12-29-2012, 03:51 PM   #3
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I'm guessing since it has "flaps" it should have adjustable control clevises. Un-connect the control rod at the flap/rudder and screw the clevis in or out as needed to align the surface.
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Old 12-29-2012, 04:36 PM   #4
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Welcome to WattFlyer!

Before you adjust any physical pushrods, make sure to power everything up per the instructions, then center all the trims in the transmitter. Then adjust the pushrods (usually by disconnecting the clevis from the control horn on the control surface, then turning it in or out as necessary) until the surface is centered. If you don't center the trims on the transmitter first, you may not have enough trim left over for when you need it.

Also, since it sounds like you're very new to this, it is standard practice to remove the propeller when doing anything like this. Electric planes/helis are actually more dangerous than their fuel powered counterparts, as they can start by themselves when you least expect it! There's usually at least one horror story per month between the various forums I visit, and some people are kind enough to post the gory photos of how they butchered themselves!

Now, before you run out and fly that, I'm guessing you've never flown RC before. Most here would like to see you be successful. (Some just want video of the destruction! ) To that end, I don't want to see this happen to you:

Here we go again

So I suggest reading some of this first:

6 keys to success

And here's some more in-depth reading to understand your plane's electronics, especially learn about the proper handling of lipo batteries, if that's what your plane uses.

Everything you wanted to know about electric powered flight

I could go on, but I'm running on an assumption of your skill level. Is this your first RC plane? Is this your first RC anything? There's just too many stories where someone gets a plane, runs out and tries, crashes, and decides the hobby sucks. But if you take your time, get the appropriate help, you can be successful and experience a great hobby. I would highly recommend searching here for an RC flying field near you and make a visit. Even bring your plane and most likely there will be plenty of people who would be more than happy to help you get started.

AMA club finder

Good luck, and please ask any questions you have!
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Old 12-29-2012, 06:15 PM   #5
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Thanks alot for the replies and tips. It's an AMS cessna 182 1400mm plane. I've flown rc helis before but not planes. There are adjustments on the linkages, they are all on the lowest hole, but that's still too high. I'll go and try ypur suggestions and report back in a bit.
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Old 12-29-2012, 06:20 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Noahsark6 View Post
Thanks alot for the replies and tips. It's an AMS cessna 182 1400mm plane. I've flown rc helis before but not planes. There are adjustments on the linkages, they are all on the lowest hole, but that's still too high. I'll go and try ypur suggestions and report back in a bit.
Can you not screw / unscrew clevis on the control rods ?

Nigel

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Old 12-29-2012, 09:22 PM   #7
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Moving the linkage to another hole does not alter the centre position of the control surface but by how much it is moved by the servo.

The centre position is adjusted by altering the effective length of the rod. This is normally achieved by disconnecting the clevis from the horn, screwing the clevis in or out along the rod as appropriate and then reconnecting the clevis.

Once you have achieved a neutral control surface with the servo at neutral trim it shouldn't need adjusting again - unless you crash and damage something!

I hope this helps.
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Old 12-29-2012, 09:37 PM   #8
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Wooo. It's all done. I did indeed have to screw the clevis in along the rod. I feel a bit stupid now, i should have seen it. Thanks for the help everyone =)
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Old 12-29-2012, 10:00 PM   #9
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Great! Now, you might want to make sure all the clevises are on the furthest hole out on the control horn. Since you're new to flying planes It would be best to set the control a little less aggressive(hole furthest from the control surface)
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Old 12-29-2012, 10:20 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by DCDetector View Post
Great! Now, you might want to make sure all the clevises are on the furthest hole out on the control horn. Since you're new to flying planes It would be best to set the control a little less aggressive(hole closest to the control surface)
Just checked and adjusted, thank you. I'm hoping to fly it for the first time tomorrow (weather dependant). I've read the above posted articles, but is there anything else i should know?
Thanks
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Old 12-29-2012, 10:47 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by DCDetector View Post
Great! Now, you might want to make sure all the clevises are on the furthest hole out on the control horn. Since you're new to flying planes It would be best to set the control a little less aggressive(hole closest to the control surface)

I think he should set his pushrods in the hole furtherest from the control surface.
Henry
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Old 12-30-2012, 03:47 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by quorneng View Post
Moving the linkage to another hole does not alter the centre position of the control surface but by how much it is moved by the servo.

The centre position is adjusted by altering the effective length of the rod. This is normally achieved by disconnecting the clevis from the horn, screwing the clevis in or out along the rod as appropriate and then reconnecting the clevis.

Once you have achieved a neutral control surface with the servo at neutral trim it shouldn't need adjusting again - unless you crash and damage something!

I hope this helps.
A lot of models because the horn and servo arm are rarely exact opposite geometrically - moving in out with regard to holes can in fact create a slight change of trim. Not much - but as model gets faster / more sensitive - it can make a difference.

I'm glad that he's now realised to screw the clevis in / out etc.

Nigel

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Old 12-30-2012, 03:52 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Henry Sistrunk View Post
I think he should set his pushrods in the hole furtherest from the control surface.
Henry
As we all know ...

Connect Inner most hole on servo arm - gives less movement.

Connect Outer most hole on servo arm - gives more movement

(all due to arc of movement)

Connect to Inner most hole on surface horn - gives more surface movement

Connect to Outer most hole on surface horn - gives less surface movement

(due to arc vs rod distance moved).

All models need a combination of the above to arrive at sensible surface movement, then Tx uses EPA and/or D/R to reduce to desired movement.

Nigel

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Old 12-30-2012, 04:17 PM   #14
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Henry Sistrunk thanks for pointing out my error. I corrected my post.
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Old 12-30-2012, 04:31 PM   #15
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You are quite welcome. I pondered over your post for some time thinking I might be wrong. Sometimes my thinking gets a little off.
Henry
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