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Old 01-19-2013, 06:15 PM   #1
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Default How do i set up servos on seperate powerpack

Currently building a low wing trainer and my thoughts are now on powering the servos. I will have 5 servos(2 x aileron, 1 x flap, rudder and elevator) and a pair of electric retracts. My Lipo will be a pair of 1800mah 3s in parallel. Should i be powering the servos and retracts with a seperate battery and if so how do i go about setting it up. Does anyone have a diagram. The servos are only little 9g affairs.

Again thanks.
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Old 01-19-2013, 06:46 PM   #2
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It sounds like your plane is fairly large.

On my medium to large planes, I prefer to use a separate battery to power the entire control system. On my 6 lb Trainer (Sig LT 25) I have a 5 cell nimh 2000mah 6V battery powering everything except the motor. It weighs less than 4 oz. If your plane is smaller you can use the 750 mah packs. I feel this is the safest way to go.

If you want to do this here is what I did.
On a normal ESC with a BEC in it, cut or remove the red wire from the ESC plug. With an OPTO ESC it has no BEC so there is no problem.

It is possible to power servos separately from the receiver, but I see no need to do that, the receiver does not use that much current. We used to fly with 450-500 mah packs and thought nothing about it, it was state of the art at the time.

If you want to do it the second way let me know and I will draw up a system to do it, but it is more complex than just using a separate battery for the flight system.

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Old 01-19-2013, 07:37 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by Wildflyer View Post
It sounds like your plane is fairly large.

On my medium to large planes, I prefer to use a separate battery to power the entire control system. On my 6 lb Trainer (Sig LT 25) I have a 5 cell nimh 2000mah 6V battery powering everything except the motor. It weighs less than 4 oz. If your plane is smaller you can use the 750 mah packs. I feel this is the safest way to go.

If you want to do this here is what I did.
On a normal ESC with a BEC in it, cut or remove the red wire from the ESC plug. With an OPTO ESC it has no BEC so there is no problem.

It is possible to power servos separately from the receiver, but I see no need to do that, the receiver does not use that much current. We used to fly with 450-500 mah packs and thought nothing about it, it was state of the art at the time.

If you want to do it the second way let me know and I will draw up a system to do it, but it is more complex than just using a separate battery for the flight system.
So how do i connect the battery pack to the RX?
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Old 01-19-2013, 07:38 PM   #4
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also do i need to connect a ubec?
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Old 01-19-2013, 07:47 PM   #5
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your Rx if 6 channel would use the last channel and you will need to pull the red wire of the 3 colored wires that go from the esc to the Rx if the esc already has a bec in it. if the esc says "opto" on it than you need the ubec or aux battery for sure.. no ubec needed if using the aux battery as described above.

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Old 01-20-2013, 12:07 AM   #6
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The deciding factor for me would be the BEC rating of your ESC and the servos you are using. Since you are using an 1800 mah battery I presume the plane is not very large and that you have micro servos. If the BEC integrated in your ESC is 3 amps or larger I would use that.

If not, I might use a separate BEC of 3 amps or larger. Wiring instructions would come with the BEC.

A separate battery pack for the receiver might be hard to fit and would definately make the plane heavier but that would work too.

Whether you use a separate receiver pack/battery or a separate BEC, you would cut the red wire from the ESC. Now the ESC will no longer power the plane and you will require a separate BEC or a battery.

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Old 01-20-2013, 12:48 AM   #7
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A pair of 1800's... think more like 3600 3 cells...

I would run a good quality bec, or clip the wire on your speed control and run a good old fashioned receiver pack.
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Old 01-20-2013, 04:01 AM   #8
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If you were to use a separate battery as I do, the battery would plug into the lead from the on/off switch, then the switched lead plugs into the receiver battery in pins.

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Old 01-20-2013, 06:43 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by npowell28 View Post
Currently building a low wing trainer and my thoughts are now on powering the servos. I will have 5 servos(2 x aileron, 1 x flap, rudder and elevator) and a pair of electric retracts. My Lipo will be a pair of 1800mah 3s in parallel. Should i be powering the servos and retracts with a seperate battery and if so how do i go about setting it up. Does anyone have a diagram. The servos are only little 9g affairs.

Again thanks.

This seems to be overkill for your model, but is what I use on my 1000 watt and larger models. The ESC is a Castle Creations ICE unit with built in switching uBEC. The added weight is about 3/4 ounce or so.

The Shottky diodes are special units that provide about 1/2 of the voltage drop of a typical silicon diode. These Shottky diodes are widely used in high capacity power supplies and similar items. Cost is about $2 each from www.digikey.com. These diodes prevent the two 5 volt supplies from the ESC and the external uBEC from interacting with each other. Don't wire up this type of scheme without them. Digikey is a very large electronics supply house that sells to anyone with a credit card.

http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...Q035-ND/358618 (Order soon! They only have 1700 in stock!)


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Old 01-20-2013, 02:44 PM   #10
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One Downside of a separate battery pack for the receiver. If you grew up in electric then you may not be accustomerd to having to charge a receiver pack separately from the motor pack.

If you forget to charge that receiver pack, good-bye airplane. If you run with the built in BEC or a separate BEC then you only have one battery to charge.

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Old 01-20-2013, 03:26 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by kyleservicetech View Post
This seems to be overkill for your model, but is what I use on my 1000 watt and larger models. The ESC is a Castle Creations ICE unit with built in switching uBEC. The added weight is about 3/4 ounce or so.
I agree - overkill for a model this size. I good quality BEC is all you need.

I use separate LiFe batteries for power once models get to 4lbs or so. But as Ed points out it is important to charge those.

Mike
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Old 01-20-2013, 05:49 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by rcers View Post
I agree - overkill for a model this size. I good quality BEC is all you need.

I use separate LiFe batteries for power once models get to 4lbs or so. But as Ed points out it is important to charge those.

Mike
Or, what I use on the larger models is a Castle Creations 10 Amp uBEC plus an A123 battery backup. After flying with this for several years now, it's been my experience that the A123 battery only needs to be topped off once and a while. 99% of the flying takes place with the uBEC providing the power.


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Old 01-22-2013, 04:18 PM   #13
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Having done a weight check on my model i'm now wondering do i really need a seperate battery pack? What are the pro's and con's of having one?
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Old 01-22-2013, 05:09 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by npowell28 View Post
Having done a weight check on my model i'm now wondering do i really need a seperate battery pack? What are the pro's and con's of having one?
As previously indicated, check into the Castle Creations 10 Amp uBEC. These units are powered directly from your LiPo battery, and have 5 Volt DC 10 Amp output that simply plugs into your receiver's battery input.

That's what I use on all of my models with motors that run at 1500 watts and less. They've been flawless over many many flights.

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Old 01-23-2013, 05:37 AM   #15
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Pro - battery that is independent of everything else.

Neg- Space in fuse. Weight, A second battery you have to remember to charge

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