Now I need a airplane bad

[maxflyer]

The STC is a pretty good flyer. I think a lot of its success is a result of the airfoil shaped into what would otherwise be a flat-plate wing. It has an amazing amount of lift, and even thermals and slope soars well. AUW is 8oz. on mine. With a 2s 950 MAH lipo I use up less than 400 MA after 10 minutes of leisurely flying. Pirkey has a couple of videos that show its amazing capabilities, considering its a 3 CH model. I'm sure he is using a more powerful motor than my Blue Wonder. I'm also flying at 7000 MSL, which makes a difference. I've dorked it quite a few times, but have never had to repair it...until today. Five minutes after I launched into basically calm conditions, a ferocious wind arose, and before I could get it around for an approach, the wind grabbed it and swept it several hundred yards downwind. After an hour's search I found it in someone's field. The wing had been wrenched off, a strut was missing, and there were a couple chunks out of the fuselage. It's easily repaired, but I might just fabricate another fuselage because it's so cheap and easy. I was ready to dismiss this design until I had several hours on it. Pirkey just seems to have gotten everything right on this unassuming design. As a trainer, or as a quick-grab for 10 or 20 minutes of easy fun, it's hard to beat.

[BigO]

Thanks I found the plans im going to get some Foam next weekend or next time i go to town

[maxflyer]

If you are going to try the STC, I suggest a couple mods. The weak part of the design is the gear. It just doesn't hold up. You will often have to tweak or bend the legs into a new position, or just back into the original position after ending up on your nose. My solution is to form individual legs, as shown, binding them to thin ply with wraps of Kevlar thread, then running beads of epoxy along the length of the wires. After curing, they are glued to a balsa block, creating a sandwich, about the same thickness as the fuselage. I then cut a matching rectangular chunk out of the fuselage bottom, and glued the gear sandwich into place. I later slapped on a couple of pieces of foam to hide the upper section of the sandwich on both side of the fuselage. This setup is very sturdy, and allows continuing readjustment of the wire legs. I also suggest moving the gear 1/2" - 1" forward of the plans location. On an A/C like this, it is virtually impossible to land it in a stiff breeze and keep it from ending up on its nose. The plane is so light that your final flare just balloons it back into the air. I also recommend adding 2 inches to the wing span. It makes for much more of a floater, while still retaining the ability for basic 3-CH aerobatics.

[BigO]

Originally Posted by maxflyer

If you are going to try the STC, I suggest a couple mods. The weak part of the design is the gear. It just doesn't hold up. You will often have to tweak or bend the legs into a new position, or just back into the original position after ending up on your nose. My solution is to form individual legs, as shown, binding them to thin ply with wraps of Kevlar thread, then running beads of epoxy along the length of the wires. After curing, they are glued to a balsa block, creating a sandwich, about the same thickness as the fuselage. I then cut a matching rectangular chunk out of the fuselage bottom, and glued the gear sandwich into place. I later slapped on a couple of pieces of foam to hide the upper section of the sandwich on both side of the fuselage. This setup is very sturdy, and allows continuing readjustment of the wire legs. I also suggest moving the gear 1/2" - 1" forward of the plans location. On an A/C like this, it is virtually impossible to land it in a stiff breeze and keep it from ending up on its nose. The plane is so light that your final flare just balloons it back into the air. I also recommend adding 2 inches to the wing span. It makes for much more of a floater, while still retaining the ability for basic 3-CH aerobatics.

yup this is how Im going to go

[maxflyer]

BTW, I have gotten most of the components from strongrcmotors.com. Don Is a good guy to work with. Heads Up RC also can't be beat. I did end up with a Turnigy Plush 10A ESC on this bird, to minimize weight. Its throttle ramp-up is a bit grainier than some more expensive units, but it's reliable, and dirt-cheap from Hobby King (be prepared to wait a while after you order). You can use blue FF foam for this build, or do as I did and order an entire box of the white stuff from modelplanefoam.com. There's enough foam there to build quite a few birds.

[BigO]

Thanks for the links max.
I got some foam from the lumber yard and getting the plans printed out
My next Question is about the radios
It is my understanding that tx and rx must be compatible.
What do i want RSSS or RHSS, mode 1 or mode 2
Im looking for a good radio one that if i give the tx a drop test i say dang it not
O NO !!!!! A mid rang good one if you could recommend a brand or a place to look
Also when i buy a tx should i buy more than one rx

[maxflyer]

Radios are a whole 'nother discussion. You will probably find the best advice on that forum. Budgetary concerns may override a lot of other factors. I think that if things are really tight, and you are not going to be flying in a busy location, 72 MHZ used equipment is the way to go. 72 MHZ stuff is dirt cheap now. Even an advanced computer radio can be had for a fraction of the cost of 2.4GHZ stuff. Rx's are dirt cheap too. If I were in your shoes I would find a good computer FM radio and a couple receivers and start with those until I had some experience and a few airplanes under my belt. You can easily move to 2.4GHZ later. And all the other stuff, batteries, ESC's, servos, etc., can all move to the newer system with you when you switch over. People like Chellie are big fans of the older gear, as you can see in some of her posts. Don't be mislead into thinking you're losing out by not going with the latest and greatest 2.4 gear. There's still plenty of life in the 72 MHZ stuff, especially if you are budget-restricted.

[BigO]

thanks for the help everyone

[BigO]

today I got my foam. It got here undamaged and on time How in the world is that thin foam going to fly?
Im going to cut it out tomorrow after work
Going to make the wings 1" longer

[maxflyer]

On the STC the fuselage is strengthened with a CF rod. Fiberglass strapping tape applied to the wing leading edges, and along the wing from root to tip, both top and bottom, plus the bamboo struts, attached with hot glue, make for a surprisingly rigid wing. As soon as you apply the tape you will be amazed at how much the wing resists bending. This tape does not want to stretch, so when it is applied both top and bottom the foam sheet won't bend either. Fiberglass tape, both the type with the longitudinal glass fibers, and the type with the fibers in a crosshatched web, will become frequent building aids. Colored and clear packaging tape are also useful, but provide nowhere near the same structural strength as the glass tapes. I also mix pieces of EPP foam into the structure in select places where I need additional strength and resiliency. I have 1 1/2" slabs of it which I cut to size on a band saw. I recommend Foam-Tac glue if you can find it. I also use quite a lot of hot glue, but it will tend to come loose in very cold wx. Don't forget a good supply of very sharp razor blades.

[maxflyer]

I have built a foam design of my own, which I have been testing. It is a direct descendant of the STC. It is longer and more stable - a bit longer wing - more glider-like, and has a more simple tail structure, intended to eliminate the 2-piece elevator. It also has a narrow 3D fuselage which allows interior placement of the electronics, which cleans up the structure and protects the components. I will post more on this soon.

[BigO]

I got it cut out and the fuselage glued up and went to bed Ill use whats leftover of the CF rod in the elevator. The foam was 27"x39" so the wingspan is 39".

[BigO]

I got the 3mm cf rod What do you use for the motor mount?

[maxflyer]

That depends upon your motor style. Strong RC motors (and others) sells a couple different prefabbed mounts, one designed to mount to a flat firewall and another that will mount onto a dowel or tube. This is one of those areas where you will have to express some creativity. Try something. Try something else if you think it isn't working so well. That's one of the good things about starting with a simple airplane like this. If something breaks or isn't working as you would like, cut it out, cut it off, glue over it, etc, until you find something that works. It's best to have a good supply of props. In the beginning, even with a prop saver installed, you're likely to break a few. You don't want to be grounded just when you are beginning to get the hang of it. MOST IMPORTANT: get that CG correct! when you support the plane with fingertips under the wings it should hang level, or very slightly nose-down, at 1/4 to 1/3 back from the leading edge. The further back the CG, the more sensitive the flight controls will be. Clamp all your gear temporarily to the fuselage (tape, rubber bands, etc.) until you find locations where you end up with the CG at the proper location. Then attach everything permanently.

[maxflyer]

Another suggestion: First Flight - If you are going it alone, find a nice open, smooth paved area to take off from. DO NOT TRY A HAND LAUNCH! With little experience it is likely to be too difficult to get your hand back on the TX in time to get control of the plane without over-controlling. Gradually throttle up until the plane begins to roll. Let it take off on it's own - leave the elevator alone if it's climbing smoothly and at a shallow angle, until you have plenty of altitude. A touch of rudder to keep it straight if necessary. Once you get to altitude, if things are reasonably balanced, you will discover one of the most important characteristics of a plane like the STC...it basically flies itself! SMALL corrections, then leave it alone. The need for constant corrections means the CG is not quite correct, or you need to compensate with rudder/elevator trim. Another reason to get plenty of altitude, you will need it to explore the trim switches. When landing (into the wind) do not fly the airplane to the ground. Line it up and gradually reduce throttle until it begins to descend. Try to hold the nose at a constant angle once descent begins. It will likely seem the plane is coming down very fast! Don't be intimidated. Hold your angle of attack until very close to the ground, then apply a steady and increasing bit of up elevator. You want it to slow gradually until it reaches a stall just above the ground. You want to avoid over-reacting with too much up elevator in the last second or two, which will likely result in a severe nose-up zoom and a landing on your nose (bye-bye prop!). This is one of the easiest airplanes you will ever fly (assuming you build it properly). Have fun, and remember, it's only a few bucks...just keep it in the vicinity and out of the trees. You always want to recover your RC gear, even if you re-kit the airplane.

[BigO]

It stiffened up nice. I can see this thing flying with no problem .
Its not hard to build.

[maxflyer]

Excellent Work! Consider locating the gear an inch farther forward than indicated in the plans. Your landings will be easier.

[AEAJR]

Originally Posted by maxflyer

Radios are a whole 'nother discussion. You will probably find the best advice on that forum. Budgetary concerns may override a lot of other factors. I think that if things are really tight, and you are not going to be flying in a busy location, 72 MHZ used equipment is the way to go. 72 MHZ stuff is dirt cheap now. Even an advanced computer radio can be had for a fraction of the cost of 2.4GHZ stuff. Rx's are dirt cheap too. If I were in your shoes I would find a good computer FM radio and a couple receivers and start with those until I had some experience and a few airplanes under my belt. You can easily move to 2.4GHZ later. And all the other stuff, batteries, ESC's, servos, etc., can all move to the newer system with you when you switch over. People like Chellie are big fans of the older gear, as you can see in some of her posts. Don't be mislead into thinking you're losing out by not going with the latest and greatest 2.4 gear. There's still plenty of life in the 72 MHZ stuff, especially if you are budget-restricted.

Take a look here if you want to understand radios

How to select your first radio
http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=68741

Tips for new pilots

> Six Keys to Success
http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18

[BigO]

thanks for the links AEAJR

I ordered the motor and such today. I got this from Strong RC Don was a lot of help
bullet connector,JST connector,
950 mAh 2S Nano tech. Battery
Prop 7X6 orange pack of 5
motor KEDA 2730
Stick Mount Axial
Simple 10A ESC for Brushless motors
Prop saver for 3.0 mm shaft
5 g servo

Landing gear and push rods Ive got out in the shed
wheels and a batt charger ?? are all i need ??

Thanks for the help

[BigO]

New question if im use packen tape for a hing do i tape the top side and the bottom
the rudder is binding a little and the stabilizers are stiff

[maxflyer]

Hinge is cut in a v-shape from the bottom side. Knife edges touch on upper surface when the two pieces are placed together. Tape goes along the upper hinge line. Turn surfaces over. Apply tape to one surface. Form it down into the v-shaped recess between the two surfaces and press it home with your finger. Control surface will now bend in both directions. Fiberglass tape can make the hinge very stiff. Sometimes plain or colored packing tape is best for this. You can work the surfaces back-and-forth to stretch the tape a bit and loosen things up.

[BigO]

Got my parts last week got a chance to work on the airplane today
got the hinges working good going to use Popsicle sticks for control horns
for a motor mount I'm going to glue a plastic tube on the cf rod then use
http://www.strongrcmotors.com/Mount%20Axial%20smjpg.jpg
Butt the first time i did it I dident get the plastic tube straight and the motor is pointed up. Im guessing this aint right.
My Question is Should the motor be mounted straight on with a little down???

[maxflyer]

Up is not likely to be good. strait is OK. I have probably 2 degrees of down and right thrust on mine, just eyeballed.

[BigO]

Thanks max Thanks for all the help

[BigO]

I flu it today Had a ball . Found 2 kids about 16 I guess that fly little blue foam missiles.
Thay gave me a flying lesson . Thay showed my how to make a tape hing.
It flu the popcicle stick control horns are not that great and my push rods are to short so I moved the servos back witch through the cg off so the batt was hanging off the nose
But it flu