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Old 02-27-2014, 03:15 PM   #1
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Default Anyone seen the Tom-E-Boy from Mountain Models?

Is the Tom-E-Boy from Mountain Models a fun plane to fly?

Would it be possible to build a two-part wing for easy transport?

Does Mountain Models make good products?

The MM website calls for a Power D1811-2000 Outrunner. I am not familiar with this motor, is it important to use this exact motor to get a good fit, or could an Eflite outrunner be just as easily used?

Also calls for 3.7 gram servos, Power HD or Mountain Models - is there a Futaba equivalent or are the servos best purchased along with the plane from Mountain Models?

Plans call for SoLite covering - I have plenty of TowerCote and UltraCote, but I assume I need something lighter. Where can I find a covering like SoLite?
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Old 02-27-2014, 03:49 PM   #2
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Looks awesome...

You must use the lighter covering... You can get it from Stephen Aero, Tower carries it as Coverite Micro Lite...
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXGDV9&P=7

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Old 02-27-2014, 08:21 PM   #3
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Mountain Models makes great kits. I have not tried any of their Micro/Small models, but I do have their Dandy, P-51, EVA with both the Sport and Bipe Wings and the Firestorm. All kits are great.

For all, here is a link to the Tom-E-Boy
http://www.mountainmodels.com/produc...roducts_id=715

The wing span is 30 in or so. Not sure if it could be made as a two piece wing. You could try emailing Brian at Mountain Models directly and ask him. He's a great guy.

I have bought some motors/electronics from Mountain Models and everything I have bought has worked well. I am not a Futaba guy, so I can't comment on finding that brand of stuff. I have bought the SoLite covering from Mountain Models as well, it's under "Covering and Trim" on their web site. But like Mike posted, the Coverite-MicroLite is really the same stuff as far as I can tell.

In general, it is very common to substitute your own electronic stuff into kits. For example, I buy a lot of my electronics from HeadsUpHobby.com You just need to be careful to use parts that are of the same size, weight, capability...

Steve

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Old 02-27-2014, 11:10 PM   #4
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Default Radio for Tom-E-Boy

Mountain Models says to use a Micro RX (Berg4L or Spektrum 615e).

I have an older 72 mhz transmitter. What kind of receiver would I need for this Tom-E-Boy plane, and do I need a special micro crystal as well?
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Old 02-28-2014, 07:19 AM   #5
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Anyone seen the Tom-E-Boy from Mountain Models? Is the Tom-E-Boy from Mountain Models a fun plane to fly?

Would it be possible to build a two-part wing for easy transport?

Does Mountain Models make good products?

The MM website calls for a Power D1811-2000 Outrunner. I am not familiar with this motor, is it important to use this exact motor to get a good fit, or could an Eflite outrunner be just as easily used?

Also calls for 3.7 gram servos, Power HD or Mountain Models - is there a Futaba equivalent or are the servos best purchased along with the plane from Mountain Models?

Plans call for SoLite covering - I have plenty of TowerCote and UltraCote, but I assume I need something lighter. Where can I find a covering like SoLite?






The motor seems very reasonable priced from Mountain Models, you can use any motor you want to as long as its not to heavy for the plane, same goes for the Esc and the lipo. with the recommended lite weight of this plane 4.5oz , its a indoor flyer, I dont think it will handle any kind of wind very well. its to lite and big. it will be a kite.

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Old 02-28-2014, 07:22 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by skyler View Post
Mountain Models says to use a Micro RX (Berg4L or Spektrum 615e).

I have an older 72 mhz transmitter. What kind of receiver would I need for this Tom-E-Boy plane, and do I need a special micro crystal as well?
Hi The Berg 4L receiver is the best Receiver for 72Mhz IMHO, its made by Castle Creation in the USA, Its all I use on 72mhz, never a glitch or any problems, only use a Castle Creation micro crystal with a berg receiver, also use a small piece of scotch tape to help hold in the micro Crystal, just a little cheap insurance from vibrating out. The wing is only 30" long, no need to make it a 2 piece wing, IMHO the Flying weight is very very Lite, IMHO it wont be a good out doors flyier built at 4.5 oz, it will get tossed all around by the wind with the suggested low power system, its more of a indoor plane, it may not fly very well in any kind of wind. Just my 2 cents worth, It it was mine, i would use HXT 9 gram servos, a 1800KV micro motor, 7x6 apc prop , 25 amp esc and a 1000mah 3 cell lipo to put some weight on it and some better power to handle any kind of wind, but thats just me use the covering that you already have if your going to do outdoor flying. Sometimes you need the extra weight for momentum with a little wind blowing at 5 to 15 mph.

http://www.pricemachine.com/berg-rec...86987D4AAD2B00

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Castle-Creat...item35d2767f73

Specifications:
  • Wingspan: 30.25 in
  • Length: 19.4 in
  • Wing Area: 159 sq in
  • Flying Weight: 4.5 to 5.0 oz
  • Wing Loding: 4.0 to 4.5 oz/sq ft
  • Controls: 3 (Elevator, Rudder, Throttle)
  • Power: D1811-2000 Outrunner
  • Battery: 2S-300 to 2S-360 Rhino or PolyQuest LiPo

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Old 02-28-2014, 07:58 AM   #7
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Default Micro Motor PowerSystem with some power to it

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...cro_Motor.html

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...ontroller.html

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...Lipo_Pack.html

6x6 prop
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...ropellers.html

7x6 prop
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...ler_7x6_E.html

Here is my friend Kosh flying his plane with this 1800kv micro motor on 3 cells and a 7x6 prop, you dont have to use WOT but its nice to have the power when needed.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MgV17GlLMlI

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Old 02-28-2014, 04:41 PM   #8
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Default Dandy Sport from Mountain Models

Originally Posted by Stevephoon View Post
Mountain Models makes great kits. I have not tried any of their Micro/Small models, but I do have their Dandy, P-51, EVA with both the Sport and Bipe Wings and the Firestorm. All kits are great.

For all, here is a link to the Tom-E-Boy
http://www.mountainmodels.com/produc...roducts_id=715

The wing span is 30 in or so. Not sure if it could be made as a two piece wing. You could try emailing Brian at Mountain Models directly and ask him. He's a great guy.

I have bought some motors/electronics from Mountain Models and everything I have bought has worked well. I am not a Futaba guy, so I can't comment on finding that brand of stuff. I have bought the SoLite covering from Mountain Models as well, it's under "Covering and Trim" on their web site. But like Mike posted, the Coverite-MicroLite is really the same stuff as far as I can tell.

In general, it is very common to substitute your own electronic stuff into kits. For example, I buy a lot of my electronics from HeadsUpHobby.com You just need to be careful to use parts that are of the same size, weight, capability...

Steve
The Dandy Sport looks like it would be a great way to learn to use spoilers. How could it be built with a two piece wing?
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Old 02-28-2014, 05:47 PM   #9
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Here's my Dandy with the Sport Wing. I don't think it would be possible to break the wing into two pieces.




The "Regular" dandy which does not have ailerons does have a large two piece wing, but each half is about the size of the Dandy Sport wing. The Dandy's wings are just attached with rubber bands, so they are easy to take off.

The Mountain Models EVA Sport does have wing halves that come apart. It's a little larger of a plane, but still a nice park flyer. As a suggestion.. On the Mountain Models web site when you are looking at the details of a plane, open up the Manual. (Under the Manual Tab) These are the building instructions. You can get a good feel on the construction of the wings in those.

Steve

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Old 02-28-2014, 06:45 PM   #10
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The Dandy will be a better outdoors flyer with the same power system as posted on post #7

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Old 02-28-2014, 06:57 PM   #11
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Default Do I need5 channels with the EVA?

Originally Posted by Stevephoon View Post
Here's my Dandy with the Sport Wing. I don't think it would be possible to break the wing into two pieces.




The "Regular" dandy which does not have ailerons does have a large two piece wing, but each half is about the size of the Dandy Sport wing. The Dandy's wings are just attached with rubber bands, so they are easy to take off.

The Mountain Models EVA Sport does have wing halves that come apart. It's a little larger of a plane, but still a nice park flyer. As a suggestion.. On the Mountain Models web site when you are looking at the details of a plane, open up the Manual. (Under the Manual Tab) These are the building instructions. You can get a good feel on the construction of the wings in those.

Steve
Am thinking to get two of the EVAs, one for me and one for my son to learn on. I have a 7 channel radio, my son has 4 channels. Can the EVA run on 4 channels in some way? The EVA calls for 2 channels for ailerons....here are the specs...

http://www.mountainmodels.com/produc...roducts_id=215
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Old 02-28-2014, 09:15 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by skyler View Post
Am thinking to get two of the EVAs, one for me and one for my son to learn on. I have a 7 channel radio, my son has 4 channels. Can the EVA run on 4 channels in some way? The EVA calls for 2 channels for ailerons....here are the specs...

http://www.mountainmodels.com/produc...roducts_id=215
Yes the EVA can be setup to run on 4 channels. You would need a "Y" cable on the two aileron servos so they can use the same radio channel. (One connector on your RX would be split into both aileron servos)

Steve

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Old 02-28-2014, 09:28 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Stevephoon View Post
Yes the EVA can be setup to run on 4 channels. You would need a "Y" cable on the two aileron servos so they can use the same radio channel. (One connector on your RX would be split into both aileron servos)
i see the MM specs call for
Steve
Thanks Stevephoon...is this E-flite brushless motor a good choice...

It is a Power 110 brushless outrunner, at 295Kv. The MM specs call for

  • 100+ Watt Brushless Motor (Geared stick-mount or Outrunner
  • 3S 1500 MAh LiPo
At 295Kv would this E-flite motor be slow as you would get from the geared stick mount motor?



http://www.e-fliterc.com/Products/De...odID=EFLM4110A

http://www.mountainmodels.com/produc...roducts_id=215

Would I need something special to built the Eva Sport with a firewall mounted motor, not stick mount?
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Old 02-28-2014, 09:47 PM   #14
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Default Or would E=Flite Park 450 890Kv be better?

Would this E-flite motor be a good fit, at 14a continuous, with 3S seems it would be correct in that MM calls for 100+ watts.


http://www.e-fliterc.com/Products/De...rodID=EFLM1400

Product Specifications

Type: Brushless outrunner Size: Replacement for 370 or 400 Bearings or Bushings: One 4 x 8 x 3mm Bearing, and One 4 x 9 x 4mm Bearing Recommended Prop Range: 9x6 to 11x3.8 Slow Flyer or 10x5 to 12x6 Electric Voltage: 7.212 RPM/Volt (Kv): 890 Resistance (Ri): .20 ohms Idle Current (Io): .70A @ 8V Shaft Diameter: .16 in (4mm) Overall Length: 1.30 in (33mm) Weight: 72 g (2.5 oz) Overall Diameter: 1.10 in (28mm) Diameter: 1.1 in (28mm) Length: 1.3 in (33mm) Continuous Current: 14A Maximum Burst Current: 18A for 15 seconds Cells: 23 Li-Po or 610 Ni-Cd/Ni-MH Speed Control: 20A brushless ESC
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Old 03-01-2014, 10:35 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by skyler View Post
Is the Tom-E-Boy from Mountain Models a fun plane to fly? . . .

The MM website calls for a Power D1811-2000 Outrunner. . . .
FYI, the HURC 180 Plus motor from Heads Up RC appears to be identical. I've had good luck with one, used in two different planes. Price is less also.

Used with a Castle Creations (7A ?)ESC and a HURC 10A ESC.

For what its worth, build the Tom-E-Boy as light as you can. I built a TomBoy, from which your plane is based, direct from the original plans and it came out heavy at 5 1/8 oz before any power or electronics were added. Never took it beyond the build and cover stage. It has a 36" wingspan, however, so it is larger than yours.

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Old 03-01-2014, 10:36 PM   #16
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The Power 110 motor is for very large planes. It's not suitable for the EVA. Even the Park 450 is probably a little too much as well, but I think it would work.

I have the following motor in mine:

http://www.headsuphobby.com/Firepowe...otor-E-630.htm

A 400 class motor. Works great. I use the recommended GWS 9050 prop with it.

I've had very good success with their SkyPower ESCs as well. This one should be enough.
http://www.headsuphobby.com/Sky-Powe...-BEC-H-406.htm

Four 8 to 9 gram SubMicro type servos are needed as well. I've had good luck with the EMax servos. But any of this class should work.
http://www.headsuphobby.com/Emax-8g-...ervo-B-545.htm


Add a 1500 mAh 3S battery and you should be all set.
http://www.headsuphobby.com/111v-150...tery-F-120.htm

When I bought my EVA, I emailed HeadsUp with questions on what electronics/motor they would recommend for the EVA. You should do the same to see if they would recommend something else. Jeff and the others at HeadsUpHobby are great people to work with. Their site has more specs on their parts than almost anyone else. That helps a lot as well!

Steve

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Old 03-01-2014, 11:34 PM   #17
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Default Turnigy Easy-Match Motors

Originally Posted by skyler View Post
Would this E-flite motor be a good fit, at 14a continuous, with 3S seems it would be correct in that MM calls for 100+ watts.


http://www.e-fliterc.com/Products/De...rodID=EFLM1400

Product Specifications

Type: Brushless outrunner Size: Replacement for 370 or 400 Bearings or Bushings: One 4 x 8 x 3mm Bearing, and One 4 x 9 x 4mm Bearing Recommended Prop Range: 9x6 to 11x3.8 Slow Flyer or 10x5 to 12x6 Electric Voltage: 7.2–12 RPM/Volt (Kv): 890 Resistance (Ri): .20 ohms Idle Current (Io): .70A @ 8V Shaft Diameter: .16 in (4mm) Overall Length: 1.30 in (33mm) Weight: 72 g (2.5 oz) Overall Diameter: 1.10 in (28mm) Diameter: 1.1 in (28mm) Length: 1.3 in (33mm) Continuous Current: 14A Maximum Burst Current: 18A for 15 seconds Cells: 2–3 Li-Po or 6–10 Ni-Cd/Ni-MH Speed Control: 20A brushless ESC

While I like EFlite motors I've been using Turnigy Easy-Match motors from Hobbyking. I fly several EasyMatch 450's, 480's and Power 10's and they perform just as well as the EFlite motors I have and at a much more affordable price.
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Old 03-01-2014, 11:39 PM   #18
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Default iS300 servos from HeadsUp RC

Originally Posted by CHELLIE View Post
Anyone seen the Tom-E-Boy from Mountain Models? Is the Tom-E-Boy from Mountain Models a fun plane to fly?

Would it be possible to build a two-part wing for easy transport?

Does Mountain Models make good products?

The MM website calls for a Power D1811-2000 Outrunner. I am not familiar with this motor, is it important to use this exact motor to get a good fit, or could an Eflite outrunner be just as easily used?

Also calls for 3.7 gram servos, Power HD or Mountain Models - is there a Futaba equivalent or are the servos best purchased along with the plane from Mountain Models?

Plans call for SoLite covering - I have plenty of TowerCote and UltraCote, but I assume I need something lighter. Where can I find a covering like SoLite?






The motor seems very reasonable priced from Mountain Models, you can use any motor you want to as long as its not to heavy for the plane, same goes for the Esc and the lipo. with the recommended lite weight of this plane 4.5oz , its a indoor flyer, I dont think it will handle any kind of wind very well. its to lite and big. it will be a kite.
As far as servos I've been using the iS300 servos from HeadsUp RC. They weigh 3.1grams and have worked flawlessly so far on my lighter builds.
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Old 06-19-2014, 02:10 AM   #19
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Hang in there guys. Brian snuck a Tom-E-Boy 150 kit (he knows how much I love 150 size kits) in with another order I made a few weeks ago and I've been trying my best to get a build log put together and posted up. Family visits and just about everything that could keep me from working on the plane has though. I've shot a TON of pictures and have it almost ready to maiden. Now the problem is high winds and temps up to and over 110 degrees. Not conducive to maiden flight for a lightweight little bug like this.

For those that really enjoy building Mountain Models kits you'll be pretty bummed out with this one. The fun lasts less than half the time of a normal build of even something really basic like a Dandy Sport. I just can't see even a rank newbie spending more than two hours tops to have this kit built and ready to cover. This one is a true quick build. Hard to believe how strong it is though as fast as it falls together.

This coming weekend is forecast to be 110+ with high winds so maiden is definitely out again. I hope I don't have to wait for summer to end here in Phoenix to get a maiden flight done. In any case I'm not going to post up the build log here or on RC Groups until I have a successful maiden. I know it'll fly great. After all it IS a Mountain Models kit! I just want to post a truly complete build log.

Joe

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Old 06-19-2014, 04:08 AM   #20
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What I found with mountain models is they are all light planes, or at least seem to be, and I prefer building with a little more strength and weight. The light weight I leave to my UMX planes. If you want you could substitute some stringers with spruce or basswood, as well as extra sheeting over wings, parts of fuse, to increase strength, add weight. This also allows you to use heavier covering that may crush thin balsa (I don't like solite) and end up with a stronger covering all together. Weight may mean upping power, but weight usually means a stronger, stiffer frame that handles wind better too.
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Old 06-19-2014, 02:17 PM   #21
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Yes, they are all definitely built as lightly as they can be, while not sacrificing strength. They are engineered to be as strong as needed, with a safety factor (in many cases, 15g ultimate for maneuvers and 30g 'landings') That's why they fly better than any ARF out there. I have created my own tables of tensile, compressive strength for various density and grain combinations from a nice 'old fasion' Instron and choose materials accordingly.

Sure, you can change balsa to spruce or plywood, sheet wings, and increase the weight of the motor and batteries to compensate, or do whatever else to add weight, but you sacrifice the flying quality as a result. Also by adding more mass to the plane, you increase the energy that the structure has to absorb in the event of an unexpected arrival.

Personally, I prefer to add weight in useful areas, such as battery size for flying in heavier winds. That said, I regularly fly all our planes in 15 MPH winds (except the DuskStick) in their stock configuration.

Anyway, that's part of my design methodology and I'm sticking with it.
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Old 06-19-2014, 07:39 PM   #22
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I can understand that and I like the engineering of MM planes, not trying to attack the designs in any way. One thing that would have greatly benefitted the P51 was a stronger trailing edge on the wing, perhaps spruce. I sanded it down to a nice angle, resulting in solite destroying it. The overall designs are amazing, although certain areas could benefit from stronger wood and would not really increase weight. Perhaps some of this stems from my dislike of solite.
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Old 06-20-2014, 12:41 AM   #23
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First off, HAPPY BIRTHDAY BRIAN!

Brian is right. These birds are designed light to fly right. I've built dozens of MM kits and made tons of mods to them. Nothing was ever changed because I thought that an area was weak though. A typical mod I do is to use 1/8" CF tube for the leading edge on the SwitchBack and Dandy wings. The ONLY reason I do that is because I fell into a killer deal for a boatload of 1/8" CF tube for cheap. I also like to add flaps, retracts etc. My original SwitchBack from 2001 is still flight worthy even after the fuse was nearly destroyed back in 2003. I just glued all the shattered pieces back together and she's fine. The wing took some Solite repair and that was all. No wing structural repair. That was my first MM kit and was built bone stock...

I share your dislike for Solite. I hate the stuff and it's many clones out there with a passion. Unfortunately on a kit the size of the Tom-E-Boy trying to drape it with Monokote or some other such heavyweight covering will crush it into balsa dust. It simply wasn't designed to withstand anything more than Solite and that's fine. I knew that going in and I get to use up some of the stuff I had laying around. The colors aren't the best but it was all I had left.

The pretty weather girl keeps saying we are in for 110 degrees again this weekend with wind. Damn! Will this ever end? When it does I'll do the maiden. I don't have any lightweight LED's or I'd toss some on her and fly at about 9:00pm when it's only 100 degrees.

Joe

The nonsensical ravings of a lunatic mind.....
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Old 06-20-2014, 01:51 PM   #24
subzJC
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Piper,

You also need to admit the the mustang was the first plane you had
ever covered. This was discussed in your p-47 thread when
rcers finally got to the root of the problem with your technique.
I've seen you taking cheap shots on the Mountain Models kits
whenever you get a chance and its annoying.
http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/show...ountain+models



To the Mountain Models makers, I built your Flashback this past
winter and it turned out great and flies awesome as well.
Thanks for a great kit!
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Old 06-20-2014, 02:30 PM   #25
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Not taking cheap shots at all. The plane was very well designed, build went together smoothly. Perhaps I will one day build another MM P51, modding the retract area to take servoless retracts, and altering the build to allow ultracote parklite to work with it. As far as builds, it was the most thorough in instructions, and parts had no errors at all. It is important, however, to note that the designs aren't made for wind, due to weight, and that covering must be taken with extreme care.

Sorry if you think I am attacking MM, it is not my intention at all. My build of the P51 fell apart at the covering, but the kits are top notch nonetheless.
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