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Old 04-18-2014, 03:02 AM   #1
CHELLIE
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Build Review $100.00 Twin Build Contest 337 Cessna

My Choice for The 100.00 Twin build Contest, Will be the Cessna 337 Sky master, Wish me Luck



I may be getting Older, But I Refuse to grow Up I am Having to much Fun to Grow Up LOL
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Old 04-18-2014, 04:02 AM   #2
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Sweet, Chellie! One of my favorites!
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Old 04-18-2014, 12:06 PM   #3
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It's never too late to have a happy childhood.
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Old 04-18-2014, 07:37 PM   #4
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I think tower hobbies had a .40 sized model of one of these designed to run two .25 nitros. i really wanted to build a non scale.version of this plane for a while. either that or a variaeeze or other burt rutan model. i like the idea of a fully functional canard, but I'm afraid to actually impliment.it.

good luck chellie.

slow stock prop reversal. it flies! easily! 543 watt dual motor bipe slow stick. push-me-pull-you. 242 watt 3 channel slow stick. 365 watt mini ultra stick. 415 watt mini contender. 810 watt ultra stick .25e. 220 watt alpha 450 sport (retired).
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Old 04-18-2014, 09:20 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by hayofstacks View Post
I think tower hobbies had a .40 sized model of one of these designed to run two .25 nitros. i really wanted to build a non scale.version of this plane for a while. either that or a variaeeze or other burt rutan model. i like the idea of a fully functional canard, but I'm afraid to actually impliment.it.

good luck chellie.
Canard?
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Old 04-18-2014, 10:39 PM   #6
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VariEZe was/is a canard design

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rutan_VariEze

It has a fixed main canard surface with elevator on it.
Some Canard designs (including the Wright Flyer) have/had "flying stab" forward surfaces where the whole surface was moved to act as elevator. Some have fixed forward surfaces and depend on elevator/elevon on the main wing for pitch control.

Lots of ways to do it... you can mix and match flying stab + elevators on the forward surface and elevons if you want.

The flying stab is easier than you might expect.
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Old 04-19-2014, 01:00 AM   #7
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Lol! Fh, I thought he was referring to the Cessna!
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Old 04-19-2014, 03:40 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by xmech2k View Post
Sweet, Chellie! One of my favorites!
Mine Too

Originally Posted by hayofstacks View Post
I think tower hobbies had a .40 sized model of one of these designed to run two .25 nitros. i really wanted to build a non scale.version of this plane for a while. either that or a variaeeze or other burt rutan model. i like the idea of a fully functional canard, but I'm afraid to actually impliment.it.

good luck chellie.
Thank You

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Old 04-19-2014, 03:48 AM   #9
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Ok, I got to thinking about this build, and Know What I have a Dynam I can Fly Foam Plane Laying around here its been well used, so its ready to live another life
I am just going to use the front fuselage, and cut it a little behind where the wing mounts to the fuselage, That will work, then i am going to build a new wing out of 3mm depron, and make the rudders and stabilizer out of 1/8" balsa sheet, the wing will need to be moved back a little on the fuselage to give it the 337 look, and I will have to build up a little foam on the rear of the fuselage, Frankenstein Build




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Old 04-19-2014, 07:28 AM   #10
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Real trick is keeping the booms light but stiff. Its very easy to make a 336/337 tail-heavy.

I had the Nitroplanes big 337
(336 is fixed gear with a different air scoop at the wing TE.... going 336 makes going scale easier and allows easier wing mounting/removal)

Note your photo showing cooling flaps open for the rear engine... pretty much required on 336 and 337 to keep them open all the time.
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Old 04-19-2014, 11:04 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by fhhuber View Post
Real trick is keeping the booms light but stiff. Its very easy to make a 336/337 tail-heavy.

I had the Nitroplanes big 337
(336 is fixed gear with a different air scoop at the wing TE.... going 336 makes going scale easier and allows easier wing mounting/removal)

Note your photo showing cooling flaps open for the rear engine... pretty much required on 336 and 337 to keep them open all the time.
Yea, I was thinking how to make them lite and yet be able to run a control wire through them, I think a ladder stick type build, with a 6mm CF tube on top will work, that should keep it lite, I Hope

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Old 05-24-2014, 12:13 PM   #12
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I Got The Motors Ordered, just waiting for them to get in, I am going to be Using my favorite 1800kv Micro Motor They are a little motor that think they are a big motor They are a little power house and only about $6.00 each, if you never used these motors, give them a try, i use them with a 7x6 apc prop and a 30 amp esc with a 3 cell lipo of about 1300 to 1500mah, they can be pushed, they have thick windings, i use them at about 20 amps and about 220 Watts and they love it just use a little epoxy to to help hold the wires at the motor and use a little epoxy on the motor mount so the motor does not turn in the mount and break the wires coming out of the motor, here are a few videos of this micro motor in action with a 7x6 apc prop on 3 cells, enjoy, Chellie

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...cro_Motor.html



http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/show...arry+lancaster

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Old 05-25-2014, 12:45 PM   #13
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Hi Chellie
I shall be watching this with interest.
What will be its span?

Just for interest the booms on my 53" O-2 (337) are hollow built up in 3mm Depron and nothing else - no reinforcing at all!
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Old 05-25-2014, 07:10 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by quorneng View Post
Hi Chellie
I shall be watching this with interest.
What will be its span?

Just for interest the booms on my 53" O-2 (337) are hollow built up in 3mm Depron and nothing else - no reinforcing at all!
Hi The span is going to be about 40" Wow thats amazing that your only using 3mm depron for the booms, take care, Chellie

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