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Old 05-11-2014, 02:40 AM   #1
carpetbagger
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Okay, so now I have two motors that came with optional stick mounts, although the stick mount thingie was missing in one motor package. They are 1700 kv about 100 watt motors. Stick mount has fins - cooling? Unless the contact area on the motor/stick mount was coated with some sort of heat conductive grease I doubt the fins do all that much, but they're pretty.

My question: I'm all about easy and it seems that sliding the motor on a stick and driving the single screw is easy - motor mounted. But, is that secure enough? I mean one screw - back in the day that would be called a "Jesus screw" because when it lets go the pilot would go JESUS! Any one have problems with this simple mount system?
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Old 05-11-2014, 02:59 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by carpetbagger View Post
Okay, so now I have two motors that came with optional stick mounts, although the stick mount thingie was missing in one motor package. They are 1700 kv about 100 watt motors. Stick mount has fins - cooling? Unless the contact area on the motor/stick mount was coated with some sort of heat conductive grease I doubt the fins do all that much, but they're pretty.

My question: I'm all about easy and it seems that sliding the motor on a stick and driving the single screw is easy - motor mounted. But, is that secure enough? I mean one screw - back in the day that would be called a "Jesus screw" because when it lets go the pilot would go JESUS! Any one have problems with this simple mount system?
The stick mounts are great, but do yourself a favor, where the stick mounts to the motor, add a little 5 min epoxy to the motor and stick mount to keep the motor from ever wanting to spin in the mount, it has happened to me, and it pulls the wires out of the motor, second, epoxy the stick mount to the fuselage mount and use a screw, its better to have a good solid mount that wont come loose. hope that helps, Chellie

I may be getting Older, But I Refuse to grow Up I am Having to much Fun to Grow Up LOL
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Old 05-11-2014, 04:56 AM   #3
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Stick mounts ... two types .... one has four screws to fix motor in place - (full face mount) and other has a ring with grubscrew to lock motor in place (pole mount). Both work fine.

I assume that OP refers to the single screw that fixes the square tube to the 'beam' ? Because it's in sheer and not under inline stress - it's fine. Usually the beam is a relative tight fit to the mount tube ...

As to epoxy ? I never bother - even with the pole mount ... never had any turn or loose. If concerned for the pole mount type - friend of mine uses a drill to put a small shallow dimple into the metal so the grubscrew locks into it.

Well fitted - a beam mount is a good system, allowing easy adjustment of motor to match cowl depth etc.

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Old 05-11-2014, 07:00 AM   #4
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I used a bigger longer screw on the mount of my p47, goes through the other end of the mount. I initially used the stock tiny screw, but when I secured the hole with ca, the screw would snap while trying to get it in. The bigger screw holds well.
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Old 05-11-2014, 07:58 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by thepiper92 View Post
I used a bigger longer screw on the mount of my p47, goes through the other end of the mount. I initially used the stock tiny screw, but when I secured the hole with ca, the screw would snap while trying to get it in. The bigger screw holds well.
I have always used the stock screw or if lost - as sometimes happens in my model room ! I use similar.
I do not CA it in or use larger unless absolutely necessary .. CA creates a stress point as it hardens wood and has a sheer face to it. Second a larger screw creates a weak point in the beam.

All the screw has to do is stop the mount sliding ... nothing else. The mount tube should be a tight wriggle fit to the beam .. if it's a loose sliding fit - then IMHO should be replaced. I have never had a beam mount come away because of the small screw.

I make my own beams from 10mm sheet stock from hardware store .. I set my table saw to 10mm cut and can cut as many as I like in wood of choice .. as long or short as required.

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Old 05-11-2014, 08:06 AM   #6
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I was initially worried about that with a larger screw, but the spruce can handle it. The screw isn't a great deal larger. I was actually forced to do so, as the stock screw broke off into the stick. As for CA, I read that CA was good to use in this area to stop the screw from loosening...wasn't a good idea in my case.
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Old 05-11-2014, 09:50 AM   #7
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mmmm It's what I call the CA illness.

CA seems to be the universal answer to things .. but in fact if you look at the history and origins of it .. is not really the case.

The properties of normal CA are thin, instant bond when tight close jointed, with a hard stressed face to the bond.

If you take two pieces of wood .. make them thin so you can break in hands. Let's say 1/8 sq balsa or pine. Overlap ends and CA them together .. allow a little to soak out into the wood past the joint area. Now take other ends and snap the item. Where does it break ? Usually unless wood is faulty - at the end of the soaked in CA. It's what we call a Sheer Point.

If the wood is subject compression - it acts like a brick and is hard .. resists immense pressure / compression, but any surrounding material not soaked becomes the weak point.

OK ---- sorry for the lecture - I don't mean it to be so .. Just explaining my reasons for disliking CA as the universal answer.

With screws and yes I do it with cowling screws into ply edge firewalls etc. - I run screw into a suitably drilled hole. This cuts a reasonable thread. I remove the screw .. put small and I mean small drop of CA in so it soaks into the hole ... leave it for a minute or so to ensure it has soaked in and set. Then return the screw and tighten - but not too tight, so as to hold but not break the threads.

With the beam mount screw - it is NOT intended as a fixing structural holding screw .. it is purely a way of preventing the mount from pulling of the beam. You can in fact if beam and mount are properly matched use a pin instead ! We don't of course because we are not precision engineers, it's wood and we need to be sure the screw does it's job.

My view anyway ...

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Old 05-11-2014, 02:18 PM   #8
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Carpetbagger: I concur with Chellie, a little epoxy drops will do a lot to keep not so much your motor from flying off the plane, but rather pointed in the proper direction. On my scratch built mini stick I've used and crashed many many times the little stick mount motor. Since the mount was metric and the stick was fractional inch, the thing would always fit loose. I would shim it up with a bit of this or that scrap and sand to get a proper thrust angle and then add a few drops of 5 min. epoxy to keep it pointed there.

My major concern with these mounts evolved to be adding a few drops of epoxy to the motor wires where they exited the windings so they would not break off on impact. They're very hard to fix and the motor performance is degraded, but they can be fixed. So, get the wires dressed nicely and near the mount and stick them together so the stick is the weaker link. It is very easily fixed. Oh, and I've never had much trouble getting the motor off the stick when required even when epoxied together.
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Old 05-11-2014, 06:13 PM   #9
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Thank all y'all (all y'all proper South Speak when addressing 3 or more folks). CA is out, and sorry Chellie, I doubt I will epoxy the motor to the stick mount gizmo. Cranked down set screws w/Locktite work for me. I learned about Locktite on my newb test run #2 when the itty bitty 250 motor leapt off the mount, reached the end of it's chain (wires) spun around and gave a few shallow prop slices. Dang, I think waw one of the few model I had built without blood markings.

Yes, Mivins, 3/8" is a shade under 10mm, but no problem. I have a nice table saw and a selection of wood: mahogany, white ash, cypress, and western red cedar. I think I'll go with cypress or cedar = lighter, and the stick will be saturated with WEST resin, but I won;t epoxy the mount on. Idea is easy to remove = one screw so I'll go with one screw and tight fit.

My builds aren't "stick" so I'll use a short 10mm stick glued through a hole in the regular ply firewall. Thenh I can adjust position to match cowl easy without padding the firewall mount out with chunks of ply.

Don't all y'all hold your breath for an update. The Base Commander (AKA wife) has me busting hump to get our house ready for the house market. *crack* goes the whip . . .
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