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Old 06-23-2014, 10:02 PM   #1
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Default Painting inside of canopy?...

If I were to paint the inside of my canopy what type/brand paint would be good? I'm thinking the black canopy would look good against the yellow and white covering I have put on so far.

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Old 06-23-2014, 10:13 PM   #2
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I would use Testors as I've found it won't melt foam or plastic. Regular old flat black will work as the canopy will provide the "shiney" surface.

Or even regular waterbased craft paint will work. If the canopy is removable, you can touch it up as needed, but it really should never be necessary as the painted surface will be out of the elements.

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Old 06-23-2014, 10:15 PM   #3
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If it's transparent plastic, you should be able to use about any paint. I'd use gloss black spray paint.

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Old 06-23-2014, 11:23 PM   #4
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I'm not exactly sure what kind of plastic it is. I have searched the forum but came up empty on what other people have used. The Testors would probably work well maybe even some Krylon.

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Old 06-23-2014, 11:46 PM   #5
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If it's lexan, that's the same as rc car bodies. Way back when I did that, I scuffed it very lightly with scotch brite, cleaned it really good, then paint several very light layers letting it dry in between layers. Tamiya has rattle can paint just for it. I forget off hand if it's their ones numbered ps or ts, but it'll be able to flex like you won't believe without peeling.
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Old 06-23-2014, 11:58 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by xmech2k View Post
If it's lexan, that's the same as rc car bodies. Way back when I did that, I scuffed it very lightly with scotch brite, cleaned it really good, then paint several very light layers letting it dry in between layers. Tamiya has rattle can paint just for it. I forget off hand if it's their ones numbered ps or ts, but it'll be able to flex like you won't believe without peeling.
There's a LHS that just opened close by and they're mainly car guys. They would probably have that kind of paint. Worth a look.

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Old 06-24-2014, 12:30 AM   #7
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Be very very careful what color you get. Some of the paints are very thin, run the moment you apply them. Such colors are yellows, and the tint colors. I have always preferred Testors paints, but only Tamiya seems to make the lexan paints now. Use PS is lexan, if not, TS. I have painted a number of rc car and truck bodies, and they are best if using multiple colors, such as a blue, backed by a silver metallic to slightly brighten the blue and give it a metallic finish. If you want more metallic, use less coats of blue, more blue, less coats of metallic or more coats of blue. Backing in black darkens, white lightens. You can't paint in one coat usually.
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Old 06-24-2014, 12:43 AM   #8
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Note that if you paint the canopy black (inside or out) and then leave the plane in the sun in some areas you can end up with a deformed canopy
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Old 06-24-2014, 12:49 AM   #9
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Buy some Rit dye and soak it in a bowl of water. Keep checking it to see if it is dark enough to your liking. Was a thread here with some good info on using this for coloring a canopy. Why we don't lock threads on this site good to dig back in the archives for info.
http://www.cvs.com/shop/product-deta...5?skuId=764498
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Old 06-24-2014, 01:20 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by gramps2161 View Post
Buy some Rit dye and soak it in a bowl of water. Keep checking it to see if it is dark enough to your liking. Was a thread here with some good info on using this for coloring a canopy. Why we don't lock threads on this site good to dig back in the archives for info.
http://www.cvs.com/shop/product-deta...5?skuId=764498
I don't understand how Rit dyes the plastic. Does it actually penetrate the plastic?

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Old 06-24-2014, 01:39 AM   #11
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No it won't penetrate the plastic lot's of info on Youtube. Just don't use boiling water like some of them show for thicker plastic. The thin canopy plastic will deform. One of our club members did a real nice yellow canopy on a plane. Nice thing is it is colored inside and out.
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Old 06-24-2014, 03:35 AM   #12
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Here's a link on how to dye a canopy:

http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=40848

From what I read online, wait until the water temp is 140 or below before putting the canopy in the solution. Some have let them soak over night.

I have seen some that others at my club have done. Still translucent. Cool looking if that's what you are going for. I have never tried it.

I have painted the inside of some with acrylics. Just the panel lines on war birds. Like thepiper92 mentioned, I have painted clear car bodies way back with Testors spray. Not sure what they use today. Spray the inside and be careful to not get it on the outside.

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Old 06-24-2014, 03:59 AM   #13
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Today, all that is left is Tamiya...which I don't trust. There is also some iridescent, pearl, and chrome paints available. I tried it once, took a lot of coats and cracked off, as apparently it needs a special spray on the lexan before the main colors go on. The one LHS I used to go to (they know diddly squad about rc flight, despite having a lot planes and helis in the store, so I gave them up) told me I didn't need to use that spray, so the nice iridescent paint was a waste of paint and a body. The last body I painted was a royal purple, with colored bumpers, lights. This was with Tamiya paint, using a hairdrier to dry the paint, making the process take about 15 minutes. It was a good color, but some colors you'll turn into the hulk with. My dad used a bright yellow back in the day for an RC 10 body, a light coat, instant run.

For solid colors, you'll want black probably, one or two coats, as black fills in great, unless it is metallic. You can get Tamiya smoke colors too, had a purple tint color I tried, but you must be careful, as it goes on really light, barely visible, and you have to use two or three coats before it is actually visible really. This is what I would do for a colored canopy, allowing you to have a realistic look, rather than the typical foamy pitch black canopy. The good thing about it is that you can get the color you want even from tint. 3 layers is light, 4 or 5 is still fairly light, 6 or 7 is medium, and so one. Sounds like a lot but the paint goes on very thin, hence how the tint is achieved, as well as the fact that it likes to run if you try to apply like normal paint. You actually have to hold it back, spray and move your hand quickly, rather than moving along a path for the paint. It has a different angle of spray to mist a large area, and is not a more concentrated mist like typical colors. The dye would also work, but I rather do the job in 10 minutes, vs a number of hours. Each to their own though. I grew up with RC cars, painted probably 10 bodies, been through many screwed up paint jobs, and I'm used to it.

Furthermore, Tamiya makes a type of masking tape, easy to cut, so you can actually apply a patch of multiple strips, draw a pattern and cut around it, much easier than liquid mask. It is what I used for my last body, by masking the bumpers and bottom of the doors, painting it purple, and then bringing out metallic in the purple with silver, plus making chrome bumpers with the same silver.
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Old 06-24-2014, 06:39 AM   #14
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Doing inside canopy is excellent way to get a shiny and good looking job ... and paint to use ? Standard Graphic spray cans .. the Graphics shops sell a wide range of colours in the acrylic range.

I used them for my car bodies and also clear cowls and canopies of planes.

My J3 Cub had a clear plastic cowl .. so cut to fit .. stand upside down on mat ... sprayed inside the Cub Yellow ...



It also allowed me to have clear outer surface to glue the little additions I had ..



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Old 06-24-2014, 06:46 AM   #15
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How well does the paint hold up Nigel? Especially in regards to car bodies. One of the biggest issues is not that paint doesn't stick, it's that it doesn't flex with the plastic.
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Old 06-24-2014, 07:42 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by thepiper92 View Post
How well does the paint hold up Nigel? Especially in regards to car bodies. One of the biggest issues is not that paint doesn't stick, it's that it doesn't flex with the plastic.
I've never had any problem with it. The trick is the thinness of the spray. If you brush it - then you tend to get a thick skin and that can crack .. split of in shards. But spray tends to be so much thinner ..

That J3 cowl is now so beaten up - it's held together by tape. I'm trying to make a new one. The paint has not chipped or flaked in any way. I've lost my exhaust pipe and cylinders of it though ... exhaust pipe a Burger store drinks straw, and the cylinders were just rough discs of foam.

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Old 06-24-2014, 01:30 PM   #17
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I paint the canopy frame and bows on the inside with a fine tipped brush,then over spray that on the inside with silver.Looks pretty cool.

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Old 06-25-2014, 12:54 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by Stevephoon View Post
Here's a link on how to dye a canopy:

http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=40848

From what I read online, wait until the water temp is 140 or below before putting the canopy in the solution. Some have let them soak over night.

I have seen some that others at my club have done. Still translucent. Cool looking if that's what you are going for. I have never tried it.

I have painted the inside of some with acrylics. Just the panel lines on war birds. Like thepiper92 mentioned, I have painted clear car bodies way back with Testors spray. Not sure what they use today. Spray the inside and be careful to not get it on the outside.

Steve
Steve that was the thread I was thinking about thanks for doing the searching.
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Old 07-14-2014, 12:32 AM   #19
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I tried to dye my canopy with black rit today. It didn't take. I boiled the water with the dye in it. Let it cool off enough that it wouldn't warp the plastic. Left it in there for about an hour and nada. However my fingers look like they have frostbite.

What was I thinking?
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Old 07-14-2014, 12:39 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by time bandit View Post
I tried to dye my canopy with black rit today. It didn't take. I boiled the water with the dye in it. Let it cool off enough that it wouldn't warp the plastic. Left it in there for about an hour and nada. However my fingers look like they have frostbite.

LOL fingers are gonna look that way for awhile. On the YouTube videos they had to leave it in the dye for a while and I believe the temp was a little over a hundred degrees.

Didn't it pick up any color kinda surprised that it didn't.
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Old 07-14-2014, 12:51 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by gramps2361 View Post
LOL fingers are gonna look that way for awhile. On the YouTube videos they had to leave it in the dye for a while and I believe the temp was a little over a hundred degrees.

Didn't it pick up any color kinda surprised that it didn't.
No color at all. I was surprised also. I let it sit for a good hour in the pot and took it out and rinsed off the excess. It was still clear. Was I supposed to take it out and not rinse it off? I was afraid there would be runs or drips that would dry if I didn't rinse it off.

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Old 07-14-2014, 01:04 AM   #22
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Wow dye should of taken to the plastic even if you did rinse it. How many times have you washed your fingers trying to get the dye off.
Same thing should of happened to the plastic maybe someone else will have a idea why it didn't work.
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Old 07-15-2014, 05:42 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by time bandit View Post
If I were to paint the inside of my canopy what type/brand paint would be good? I'm thinking the black canopy would look good against the yellow and white covering I have put on so far.
I have used a Transparent Black Window tint from Model Master.Its a spray lacquer that works and looks good. Spray several light coats.I think I bought it at our local hobby shop.Good luck
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Old 07-15-2014, 07:42 PM   #24
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Do you want the canopy to be somewhat transparent? If not, I say hit it with Testors flat black on the inside and call it a day. And go to Michael's for the paint, and be sure to download a 40% off coupon. Much cheaper than buying it at the LHS.

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Old 07-16-2014, 10:02 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by crxmanpat View Post
Do you want the canopy to be somewhat transparent? If not, I say hit it with Testors flat black on the inside and call it a day. And go to Michael's for the paint, and be sure to download a 40% off coupon. Much cheaper than buying it at the LHS.

Pat
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