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Old 05-13-2013, 12:20 PM   #151
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I have given up on these. The Eagle A3 Pro is way better and only around $30. It also has 3D mode and switchable in flight.
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Old 05-13-2013, 12:57 PM   #152
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I have 3 of them in use without a single issue.

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Old 05-13-2013, 01:33 PM   #153
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Regarding the strange pin arrangement which makes the conventional futaba type plug useless, go to

http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...h=orange%20fli

and in the photo is is very apparent that the pin spacing is not standard.
Anyone have a solution?
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Old 05-13-2013, 01:45 PM   #154
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Originally Posted by LPatrick View Post
Regarding the strange pin arrangement which makes the conventional futaba type plug useless, go to

http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...h=orange%20fli

and in the photo is is very apparent that the pin spacing is not standard.
Anyone have a solution?

Its just appears that way in the photo. I tried to recreate the same angle. Here are some pics with a standard servo plugged in. The only thing special you need is a male-male servo jumpers. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=21758


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Old 05-13-2013, 02:49 PM   #155
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Another pic of the useless Futaba servo plug plugged in. The spacing on the Futaba plugs is the same as the JR plugs. You can see the middle plug with the Futaba tab sticking out that doesn't work. I'll give you a dollar for it.

Gord.


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Gord.
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Old 05-13-2013, 03:01 PM   #156
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I've use two of these, all with Futaba connectors with no problems.
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Old 05-13-2013, 04:16 PM   #157
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I'm not seeing an issue with mine. Flypaper in your photo it appears you haven't plugged it in correctly and missed a pin.

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Old 05-13-2013, 07:24 PM   #158
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The slot is not wide enough to miss a pin. You can see the Futaba tab in the slot. Besides it works fine the way it is.

Gord.
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Old 05-13-2013, 08:09 PM   #159
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I just ordered One to play with http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...elta_AUX_.html

Will it work with a Sig Hummer ( no rudder )
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Old 05-13-2013, 10:51 PM   #160
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newjak,
I am not interested in an argument; what I want is a solution. My eyes are very good, and my caliper is accurate. The distance between the signal pin and the positive pin is .08", and the distance between the positive pin and the ground pin is .106. This the case on the lower four pin sets, the upper ones are standard.
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Old 05-13-2013, 10:58 PM   #161
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Originally Posted by LPatrick View Post
newjak,
I am not interested in an argument; what I want is a solution. My eyes are very good, and my caliper is accurate. The distance between the signal pin and the positive pin is .08", and the distance between the positive pin and the ground pin is .106. This the case on the lower four pin sets, the upper ones are standard.
I don't know where you see anything argumentative in my post. I posted to show that they are not all misaligned not to make light of your issues.

Lighten up Francis!

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Old 05-14-2013, 12:35 AM   #162
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OK .One more time. The pin distances are .100 thou. apart for futaba and JR. Bend the pos. pin towards the neg. pin till it shows .100. Then bend the signal pin till it measures .100 from the pos. pin then plug in your Futaba plug.

Gord.

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Old 05-14-2013, 03:29 AM   #163
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I'll have to get mine out of the plane tonight and take a look. I did have a problem getting them aligned as at the time I installed it the Cataract on my left eye made me blind in that eye and I had a hard time seeing in 3-D ( Perspective ). I finally had my Grand Daughter align the first plug and then just followed the plugs with my fingers as a guild. It worked. Since Cataract surgery I now see things perfectly and better without my glasses, go figure.

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Old 05-14-2013, 04:38 AM   #164
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Originally Posted by LPatrick View Post
newjak,
I am not interested in an argument; what I want is a solution. My eyes are very good, and my caliper is accurate. The distance between the signal pin and the positive pin is .08", and the distance between the positive pin and the ground pin is .106. This the case on the lower four pin sets, the upper ones are standard.
Following up on the correct spacing post above.

Sounds like the center pin(s) is(are) bent. Should be even spacing.

Slight bend can cause it to be hard to plug in... but once straightened it should be fine.
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Old 05-18-2013, 02:54 PM   #165
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Default Why did i wait so long??!!

Finally got a chance to fly the FMS 750MM P47 with the Orange installed, and all I can say is WOW! Whole 'nother airplane, and while take-offs and landings were absolutely flawless, full throttle dives caused the tail to wag noticeably, I'm thinking I may only have to decrease the gain for the tail? Other than that, it flew like a trainer, nice and smooth. After the first relaxing flight, I let it cool down for a bit, and went through all 3 batteries I brought along, just a complete joy to fly, not fighting it at all like before, I wholeheartedly recommend this Orange gizmo...

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Old 05-18-2013, 03:30 PM   #166
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Yep, just back off on the gain a weeny bit and it'll be fine.

Gord.

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Old 05-18-2013, 07:01 PM   #167
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I'm thinking that was it. Before the rudder had a tad too much corrective throw, and now it's about 1/4 of that, so we'll put 'er up again tomorrow morning, and see what happens. I'm actually giddy with anticipation...can't WAIT to go flying again! I'm thinking about possibly getting an Eagle Tree for Sonny Boy's P47 because after watching the horror show I went through with mine originally, He's scared to death to fly his...then He saw how mine flew today...I've created a Monster...
weird, why did it dead-link "Monster"?
even weirder, now "Monster" isn't dead-linked...not linked at all now??? Hmm...

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Old 05-19-2013, 12:19 PM   #168
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Every owner of the V1, V2 and V3 should give this a try:

Open Flight Stabilizer

Open source, slew of new features, PPM sum (cppm), sideways orientation, can directly be flashed onto each of the above using a USBASP (~$4 on ebay).

Much better than the original firmware. Has both rate mode and attitude hold, I think 3D mode is in the works.
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Old 05-19-2013, 06:35 PM   #169
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Didn't know you could update the firmware on these?? There's a port for that? Maybe I just never noticed it...hmm...

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Old Yesterday, 01:46 AM   #170
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There is no port as such. They have to be opened and in the case of the V2 , wires have to be soldered to them. The V1 has pins internally apparently.
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Old Yesterday, 06:47 AM   #171
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Originally Posted by matiac View Post
Didn't know you could update the firmware on these?? There's a port for that? Maybe I just never noticed it...hmm...
V1 has external 6 pin ISP header so it's plug-and-flash.

V2 and V3 have only the pads exposed, so I just soldered a header, cut a bit of the case and that was it. 10 minute job.
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Old Yesterday, 01:28 PM   #172
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I've got 2 version 1's in both my bigger planes, possibly something to look into...

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Old Yesterday, 07:26 PM   #173
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Took 'er out today in 10-15mph, gusting to 20mph wind, and it was basically a non-issue. Once I got the tail gain turned down quite a bit from what I had originally set it to, it flew great! All settings are now just a notch below 50%, and it's perfect! By the way, this was my first time flying in anything other than dead-calm, and all the apprehension was for nothing. It was like the wind wasn't even there.

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Old Today, 02:54 AM   #174
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Here's video from this evening, wind was still around 10mph, and the planes was solid:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ew6SI...ature=youtu.be

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