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Old 06-10-2017, 05:09 PM   #1
lee
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Default *The best combat plane is ........

I have flown combat since the 80's. The flyers in our group like to fly formation with indestructible EPP wings and roll into each other in order to make combat. The planes are tough enough that they can take a hit and get knocked out of the sky and hit the ground and walk over, pick up your plane and toss it back into the sky.

If you use EPP wings, combat is inexpensive and a lot of fun. When you fly most plane designs you go up and fly alone. When you fly combat planes you are flying as a group which makes it a lot of fun. Take a look at these videos and think of what you could do with your club.

Listen to the voices of the pilots in the older first video. If they can't convince you that combat is a lot of fun I don't know what can.





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Old 06-10-2017, 09:58 PM   #2
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The Assassin is my favorite wing right now , and the piņata has been a handful at high speeds but flys mellow she's great. I do have the piņata a bit over powered but that dosn't matter.

The Assassin flys awesome both fast or slow and is excellent for FPV'ing formation with the fellow wing FPV'ers at the field. She has no problem flying fast. I can see her being a great combat wing. I just wouldn't want the Foxeer osd camera on her to fly combat.

narrow is the place to land...wide is the space to crash....choose the narrow way!
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Old 06-10-2017, 11:58 PM   #3
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I enjoy my Assassin as well. Although I have a hard time hitting other LOS...I can imagine that hitting someone FPV would be a freak accident.

"Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex...it takes a touch of genius, and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction."
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Old 06-11-2017, 01:08 AM   #4
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It helps to get more planes in the air to hit but the goal is to fly together. The front planes slow down and the back planes cut the corners of an oval flight pattern to catch up. It is easy to run away but what is the fun in that?

One of the local flyers named Todd and I had 30 hits in one day. I would fly a predictable course and he would chase me down. Most hits didn't knock either of us to the ground.

Here are some other combat games...

http://www.crashtesthobby.com/all-about-combat.html
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Old 06-14-2017, 09:39 PM   #5
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We have had a variety of sWARm events.



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Old 06-26-2017, 05:28 PM   #6
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Building for Combat

Remember your plane needs to stay as light as possible. Each of these methods for reinforcing the plane adds a little weight, and when all are combined, the plane my be as strong as a tank and fly like one too. Think light!

Make everything repairable at the flying field, including the quick changing of servos, battery, and rx. The deeper you bury the rx, the harder it is to fix.

Our flying wings have spars to make them rigid, but the spars alone are not enough to prevent damage in an accident. We use a bidirectional reinforced tape called Scotch Extreme Tape to add incredible strength to our planes. This tape is tested to 150 lbs per inch in strength, but it adds weight and has to be used in moderation in the most stressed parts of the plane.

The Shock Cord makes a difference in a head-on impacts where G-forces try to tear the plane in half between the elevons near the motor. The shock cord also protects the wingtips and keeps the plane intact when most planes would have major damage. We include a chock cord in all of the wing kits.

We like EPP elevons that don't crack or split in impact and they also don't have the hinge tearing problems we see with balsa or bass wood elevons.

We also do not put any type of a fuselage on the wing. The only reason designers would put a fuselage nose or big battery in a plane like this is because they are having CG problems and can"t get their design to balance without the added fuselage or weight. The fuselage adds weight and drag. If I build light I can get my wings to balance with a single 1300 3S battery in the nose and no added weight.

The EPP foam will help protect your battery and rx if you bury them in the EPP foam and secure them so they can’t eject in an accident. Design the cutouts in the EPP foam to protect your investment. We try to build with no empty spaces in the wing so the wing can’t collapse on the empty space.

To balance the flying wings, we have put the batteries and rx close to the front of the plane. We have learned to turn the lipo battery with the side facing forward, to protect the wire connections and the more fragile edges and end of the battery cells whenever possible. In some planes it is not practical to turn the battery sideways, but in combat planes it may save your battery.

We also include a UV-protectant laminate covering in all of our kits. This laminate adds a lot of strength and also protects the foam and the reinforced tape from the sun’s rays that yellow and dry out the tape. It is crystal clear when applied, so some decals or coloring are recommended so you can see your plane in the air. The foam does not need to be sprayed with a spray adhesive for the laminate to stick, like it does if you use Ultracoat or colored packing tape. The laminate is so strong you can build without the Extreme Tape if you are trying to save weight, but as you can guess, the plane can’t take as much abuse.

I like my servos and radio accessible and easy to inspect and change. I install them in cutouts in the EPP foam, usually on the top of the wing where they are less likely to get knocked out in combat or thrown out in ‘high G” maneuvers. Secure them with a small amount of hot glue on the surface that can be easily removed. Make the servo cutouts smaller than the servos, so they fit snugly. If they are loose, it will make your flight surfaces flutter. Do not leave the sevos half out of the wing; bury them deep enough that the servo arm is just above the surface of the wing.

I like my control rods and clevises exposed so they won’t bind. Internal rods look better but can lose leverage and bend, allowing the elevons to flutter at higher speeds and break servo gears in collisions. They also can put drag on the linkage, making it hard for the servo to center and using more battery power. You should be able to move the elevon with the radio off by moving the flap by hand, and have the servo move in both directions. The rods and hinges should not flex or have any free play. We have seen the hinges tear or pull loose when this is the case.

Watch our building instructions at this link and get an idea of how we make a plane so strong it can hit a brick wall and not only survive but the radio is also protected. The video below shows a flying wing hitting a brick wall over and over. This plane still flies great even though we have hit a brick wall with it 15+ times.

http://www.crashtesthobby.com/assass...tructions.html

-Lee

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