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#1 | ||
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Join Date: Dec 2012
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First off, the antenna on the RX is extremely short. Like 1.5". Can I use standard wire to extend it? There appears to be a hull plug to put the antenna through in the aft hull. Any advice on this would be appreciated. Second, the RX that came with the plane is a 6CH, while the TX is 4CH. There are impressions in the wing to make flaps, so I am assuming that is why it has a 6CH RX. The obvious problem is the TX is only 4CH. I tried identifying the TX/RX through the FCC ID and came up flat. Is there any other way to ID the TX/RX system? Also, since the flap servos would be on the wing underside, they need to be small. Any recomendations as to what size? I'll probably have more questions later, but that is a good start. lol TIA |
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#2 | ||
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Join Date: Mar 2011
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DON'T change the antenna! It's normal for 2.4G antenna to be that short. The hole was probably for a long 72mHz antenna.
No idea of the TX make but if you want to upgrade you'll need a new TX anyway so just get a RX that matches your new TX. Cheap 9 gram or 5 gram servos will be fine for flaps. |
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It's never too late to have a happy childhood.
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#3 | ||
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Originally Posted by pmullen503
Thanks. Will do. I am planning on upgrading the TX, but not till next month some time. I guess I'll save the flaps install till then.
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#4 | ||
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Here is an odd one. The RX was installed inside a balloon(yes, like the blow up kind). Needless to say the balloon needed to go since the bind plug was not installed. Should the RX be put in a balloon after binding? I won't be pond surfing anytime soon, but just wondering if this is a normal method with seaplanes.
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#5 | ||
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Community Moderator
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They put it in a balloon to protect it from the not so good landing on water AKA dunking.
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#6 | ||
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Originally Posted by gramps2161
Yea, I figured that. But being that the balloon was zip tied closed WITHOUT the bind plug attachedto the RX, there would be no way to use the balloon.
So I guess I will find a better way to water proof it before water flights. Or just buy some balloons. lol |
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#7 | ||
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Just found out this model seems to be based on this prospective aircraft(real): http://www.iconaircraft.com/index.html
Very cool plane! |
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#8 | ||
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Community Moderator
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Lowthudd you can get corrosion x to protect the electronics. It is a liquid that you dip the ESC and TX it helps protect the electronics from water.
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#9 | ||
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#10 | ||
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love to build!
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lowthud,don't follows gramps advice on dunking the tx in corrosionx.....lol [he's old like me and meant rx... ].....stinks getting old eh gramps?
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narrow is the place to land.
..wide is the space to crash ....choose the narrow way!
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#11 | ||
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#12 | ||
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Looking forward to flying impressions on this plane!
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#13 | ||
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Community Moderator
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Originally Posted by stuart
Dang no wonder my planes wgt. so much, and the control sticks seem so floppy when I try to use em. I got it all backwards. ![]() ![]() ![]() LowThudd glad you knew what I was talking about hate to see your TX sitting in a 5 gallon pal. of corrision x.
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#14 | ||
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Next question. My controller has a training port(3.5mm). The instructions don't cover it. I am assuming that this can be used as a "Buddy box", and also for simulator. How do I hook up to the PC? USB adapter?
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#15 | ||
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Another. I finally got all the servos adjusted as best I could without taking it out. And even with very limited motor use, the ESC got pretty warm. It is a 18A ESC, but there is no airflow through the inside of the fuse, as it is a seaplane. Should I try putting a heat sink on after removing the plastic cover on the ESC? Should I get a higher amp ESC? Or (other)?
Also, the servo rods seem to stick a slight bit going through the plastic tubes. Should I lube the rods? |
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