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Old 04-28-2017, 11:54 PM   #1
dereckbc
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Default Cutting, Shaping 1/16 Plywood

I have some damage to my EF Edge 540T landing gear box. Not really sure how to do it because it is going to be a bear to get up. The Battery-RX Tray blocks direct access to make measurements or trace a template.

I have a sheet of 1/16 plywood and not sure how to cut the stuff. My initial thinking was to score it deep with an Exacto Knife and break it away./ Something like a rectangle, then sand into shape to splice in. Or my other thought is to use Popsicle Stick and use epoxy.

Only good thing is the damage is on the rear side of the box. That is the only part of the Landing Gear box that is wood. The rest is that G10 material that has the steel inserts for the gear screws and the front structure.

Looks like the reas section is just attaches to the side walls of the fuselage, forms the straight edge for the ultracoat, and support the two carbon fiber rods that make up the under fuselage support that run the length of the fuselage. Trickiest part looks like getting the curve right to match the underneath portion of the fuselage.

So I could use some tips and pointers from you experienced builders. Or even some links.
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Old 04-29-2017, 01:38 AM   #2
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Sorry to hear that you are having to repair that. On RCG there is some info on this issue and repair.
Bad landing?

My biggest fear is that when I die my wife will sell my planes for what I told her I paid for them
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Old 04-29-2017, 02:13 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by Vic Z View Post
Sorry to hear that you are having to repair that. On RCG there is some info on this issue and repair.
Bad landing?
Yeah kind of, more like crappy new run way. Our New Run Way already has cracks. As soon as the Main Gear touched down, it found a crack, and flipped the plane over. At first I did not notice it. About 2 flights later I noticed UltraCoat was peeling away just behind the main gear.

Any links for repair at RCG?
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Old 04-29-2017, 04:33 AM   #4
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3d/extreme flight edge 540 exp
Just search landing gear.
That sucks anout the runway.
Ours is cracked too. Has never screwed up a landing for me, but it bounces my corsair and adds to the sqirrely factor on take off. I'm going to put on some rubber tires and see if that helps.
Good luck with the repair.
I'm still waiting on weather for my maiden. Has been either rainy or windy every day off

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Old 04-29-2017, 04:48 AM   #5
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This is one of the hardest working tools in my model room.

Cuts 1/4" aircraft plywood just great.

I have a 50mm crabide toothed saw blade on it. Will cut just alittle more than 1/4"


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Old 04-29-2017, 06:37 AM   #6
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If its Liteply - then a decent knife repeatedly scored should do the job.

The 'Popsicle' stick is actually a very good item for repairs, as are the coffee stirrer sticks.

Instead of epoxy - I would suggest use PU glue ... generic Gorila Glue. It is lightweight, strong and expands into the crevises etc.

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Old 04-29-2017, 10:33 AM   #7
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I just use a cheap coping saw and sanding block/drums/rasps. Knife and sanding block for long straight runs. Sometimes scissors, but the older or cheaper plywood tends to de-laminate with those.

I don't have a short temper. I just have a quick reaction to B.S.
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Old 04-29-2017, 01:12 PM   #8
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Of course I do have a laser cutter that can produce replacement parts based on scans...

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Old 04-30-2017, 02:50 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by Wildflyer View Post
This is one of the hardest working tools in my model room.

Cuts 1/4" aircraft plywood just great.

I have a 50mm crabide toothed saw blade on it. Will cut just alittle more than 1/4"
Who makes that saw? I Googled PowerMax table saw based on the label on it and didn't find anything that looked even close other than the Proxxon and it's only close because it's green. I've had the Harbor Freight saw for years but would like something a little better. Not $200.00+ better though.

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Old 04-30-2017, 06:33 AM   #10
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My bench circular saw was about $60 in local shop similar to Wlidflyers .... all I did was to swap the rip blade with a fine tooth job. Has adjustable full span guide rail, makes spars easy to get right.

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Old 04-30-2017, 06:55 AM   #11
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I got my saw at a hobby swap meet for $10.00, cost me $27.00 for the carbide blade.

Micro-Mark had a similar saw but the one in my latest catalog only shows a much larger saw, at a insane price.

My saw only pulls 40 watts, I think one could be made with some thinking and a small outrunner. It might take a belt to get some torque but it could be done.

A sewing machine motor would be great. I was going to build one then I found this one.

It's just too convenient to be without.

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Old 04-30-2017, 07:43 AM   #12
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A buddy had passed on a couple links to me related to micro-mini hobby saw's when I was looking around......ended up with a Harbor Freight model like this....:

http://www.micromark.com/16-Inch-Scr...aft-Attachment

Check this site.....:

http://www.micromark.com/mini-powertool/-saws

and this....:

https://www.amazon.com/AMPSEVEN-Prec...e6lFSYxoDPtCug
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Old 04-30-2017, 11:25 AM   #13
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I have a bench scroll saw as well and to be honest even the Dremel one I had years ago - all do the same .... I can never get a true vertical cut ... the blades go offline and twist ...

My present one has adjustable tension to try and stop it ... no - still does it.

Personally unless willing to spend a long time going VERY VERY slow - not worth it.

Better to get a good quality jewellers hand saw.

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Old 04-30-2017, 03:03 PM   #14
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Micro Mark and Proxxon really need to put down the crack pipe and get back to reality. I'm sure some of their products are nice but c'mon, the name alone isn't worth THIS much difference in price! Look at this:

http://www.micromark.com/MicroLux-Mi...er-Cut-Off-Saw
Now this:
http://www.harborfreight.com/2-in-mi...saw-62136.html
Same exact saw but different color. AND twice the price at Micro Mark!
Proxxon is no better. I'd love to have a nicer table saw but I refuse to pay those prices.

My old Harbor Freight saw just keeps going so I guess I'll stay with it. I made a sliding tray for it and perfectly straight cuts are not an issue.

Agreed with Nigel on scroll saws. I hate 'em for trying to do an accurate cut. My Delta scroll saw sucks worse than any other brand I've ever had. Surprising because my Delta band saw is awesome. The old Dremel scroll I had in the early 80's wasn't bad. Maybe I got a good one. Wish I'd kept it now.

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Old 04-30-2017, 04:04 PM   #15
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I have the Harbor Freight 12" scroll saw, my friend has the Micro-Mark 12" scroll saw.

Guess what? They are the same saw. just have a different name sticker.
I paid $34.95 He paid $149.95

If I really need to get busy with a scroll saw I have the 24" Delta one my dad taught me to use when I was 4 or 5 years old. It still runs perfect. 65 years later.
Sometimes blades cutting to an angle means they are not made correctly, a little more set to one side makes them cut crazy. With a "GOOD" blade I have cut 1 1/2" Douglas Fir straight up and down, but with a bad blade it might be a 1/4" curve in the same wood. Tested this one day.

The prices at MM are stupid, but sometimes they have stuff no one else carries.
I searched all over the internet for the small blade for my little table saw, finally had to buy it from MM. $27.95 I think.
I have bought 10" carbide 60 tooth blades for my full size table saw, for $19.99.
It's just supply and demand for the two different sizes I guess.

My saw came with a 2 3/8", 80 tooth blade but it was dull, I found out I am not a good saw filer.
I don't bother with anything other than carbide blades if I have a choice.

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Old 04-30-2017, 04:14 PM   #16
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The Dremel scroll saw cannot be adjusted for blade tension as it's a spring loaded holder. You press top holder down to change blade. The best thing about the Dremel though was the flexi drive it had !!

My bench scroll saw now - I sold the Dremel when I left UK - has a tension adjust wheel on top arm ... but the bottom holder still has a spring affair so adjustment is still only nominal.

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Old 04-30-2017, 04:36 PM   #17
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Yep....the HF saw is nearly identical to the Micro-Mark, the little blower attachment is the only thing different......and was $50.00 less.

Depends on the application and quality saw blade selection. I decided on the scroll for radius cuts. I've made a few little jigs for holding the wood/plastic in place more securely. With a little learning curve (practice) and patience (steady hand and consistent speed and pressure applied), it works just fine. I like the variable speed aspect and attachments........
Besides, I'm rarely in a "mass" production mode and seldom have need for a dozen different power tools....The scroll, a Dremel and my smallish table belt sander is about all I need for the size of model making and repairs I'm into.
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Old 05-01-2017, 07:06 PM   #18
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Get yourself one of these:

http://shop.balsausa.com/product_p/496.htm

They're cheap and they work extremely well, and they cut very straight. Power tools are nice but sometimes can be expensive.

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Old 05-01-2017, 09:09 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Xpress.. View Post
Get yourself one of these:

http://shop.balsausa.com/product_p/496.htm

They're cheap and they work extremely well, and they cut very straight. Power tools are nice but sometimes can be expensive.
Great Advice!!
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Old 05-01-2017, 11:34 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by Xpress.. View Post
Get yourself one of these:

http://shop.balsausa.com/product_p/496.htm

They're cheap and they work extremely well, and they cut very straight. Power tools are nice but sometimes can be expensive.
Got a couple of 'em along with the miter boxes. Indispensable for cuts less than 2" wide. Anything wider or for thick ply and it's off to the table saw.

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Old 05-02-2017, 12:56 AM   #21
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Back to the topic. Between Popsicle Sticks, Carbon Fiber Rod, Epoxy, Gorilla Glue, and Dremel tool all is fixed and stronger than ever.

I ended up cutting and peeling back the Ultracoat and the damage worse worse than I had thought. It broke out the Gear Box completely instead of just one side as I had originally thought. It actually popped the key joints on the G10. Fortunately all the little bits were mostly there. So What I did was crush up some Carbon Fiber Rod to harvest the fibers, mixed with Epoxy to fill in the voids where splintered out. Then I used Popsicle to make a spline using Gorilla Glue. Once dries painted over with Epoxy. The G10 Key Joints I used thin CA to tack back to gether, then used Epoxy fillets and a heat gun to make it run into the joints and soaked in surrounding wood. It is as strong as steel now.
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Old 06-14-2017, 04:19 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by dereckbc View Post
I have some damage to my EF Edge 540T landing gear box. Not really sure how to do it because it is going to be a bear to get up. The Battery-RX Tray blocks direct access to make measurements or trace a template.

I have a sheet of 1/16 plywood and not sure how to cut the stuff. My initial thinking was to score it deep with an Exacto Knife and break it away./ Something like a rectangle, then sand into shape to splice in. Or my other thought is to use Popsicle Stick and use epoxy.

Only good thing is the damage is on the rear side of the box. That is the only part of the Landing Gear box that is wood. The rest is that G10 material that has the steel inserts for the gear screws and the front structure.

Looks like the reas section is just attaches to the side walls of the fuselage, forms the straight edge for the ultracoat, and support the two carbon fiber rods that make up the under fuselage support that run the length of the fuselage. Trickiest part looks like getting the curve right to match the underneath portion of the fuselage.

So I could use some tips and pointers from you experienced builders. Or even some links.
I like using the Dremel with cutting wheel - got some diamond micro wheels from Harbor Frt and they work real well on that stuff, even 1/8" ply.
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Old 06-14-2017, 06:22 AM   #23
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I have a couple of Dremel 'look-alikes' and both have same problem. The tapered collets no longer hold the shafts of bits securely. I can't get replacement collets.

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Old 06-14-2017, 09:30 AM   #24
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I often use large scissors for cutting 1/16" ply. They make a surprisingly good cut.
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Old 06-14-2017, 09:46 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by Panther View Post
I often use large scissors for cutting 1/16" ply. They make a surprisingly good cut.
I do same but always make sure I align the cut with outer grain direction to avoid splitting.

The old practice of cutting outside the item lines and then sanding back is excellent when combined with scissor cut. You can even use 'tile nippers' to snip of small bits as you round corners etc.

There are two workshop items I want :

a) Bench drill press so I can centre and vertically drill better than with hand drill.
b) Bench side wheel sander to finish of items. I have a two wheel bench grinder for sharpening stuff ... but need the sander.

Ally those to my Bench table saw ($60), Scroll Saw ($70), Laser cutter ($500), 3D printer ($400) .... I'll be well on the road !!

Nigel

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