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Old 01-14-2013, 04:24 PM   #1
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Default PZ T-28 damage pics

Figured this would deserve its on thread as I will be looking for some advice as far as how I should fix this thing.

I need to be able to remove the wings so that it will fit in my car. I will let the pics speak for themselves.

I have ordered a new cowl and horizontal stabilizer. But I want to attempt to simply repair the wing and fuselage.

I ordered a new motor/gearbox, fuselage, and tail section for my Champ. So hopefully I will have that back in flying shape soon as well. I am just trying to figure out how I am going to move the electronics to the new fuse.
There is still a lot of adhesive from the factory holding those things in place.

This leads me to the question of, what is the best epoxy/adhesive to use?

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Old 01-14-2013, 04:40 PM   #2
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Just 30 minute epoxy everything back in place. looks like you have most of the foam bits so it should be pretty easy.

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Old 01-14-2013, 05:38 PM   #3
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Yep, epoxy the foam bits back where they should go and re-hinge the elevator with some tape. If you have the broken piece of cowl you could probably temporarily tape it back in place but a new cowl would look nicer.
If the foam has compressed and wrinkled some almost boiling water will sort it out. Be careful not to get the boiling water on the cowl and plastic parts as it may cause distortion.
Then get some red and black paint, or tape, and touch up the nose where the paint has flaked.

Take your time dont rush and it will be virtually as good as new.
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Old 01-14-2013, 06:10 PM   #4
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Make sure you use a good quality tape for the elevator. I use hinge tape and it is usually much stronger than the original foam hinge.
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Old 01-15-2013, 07:03 PM   #5
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Is this decent stuff here?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/E-Flite-Foam...item2a27411624
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Old 01-15-2013, 07:10 PM   #6
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It's ok for non structural repairs. I would use the eopxy for you wing mount area though as it gives you a much stronger bond.

http://www.atlantahobby.com/store/pc...5&idcategory=0

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Old 01-15-2013, 07:13 PM   #7
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Is that stuff okay to use on the foam?
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Old 01-15-2013, 07:18 PM   #8
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Epoxy? yes.

It is the CA that you have to make sure is the foam safe type.

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Old 01-15-2013, 07:26 PM   #9
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Cool thanks. I'll order some epoxy then. I wonder if the stuff we sell at Lowe's would be safe on it.
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Old 01-15-2013, 07:31 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by mattman0182 View Post
Cool thanks. I'll order some epoxy then. I wonder if the stuff we sell at Lowe's would be safe on it.
Yep, epoxy from the local hardware store will be fine. It's basically the same stuff. If you get the '5 minute' type you don't have to wait for so long for it to dry but it does limit the time you have to work before it starts to set.

Worst thing about epoxy is that it's heavy if you are too generous with it, and it gets on your fingers and leaves glue prints everywhere. As I mentioned before, denatured alcohol will remove stray epoxy if you get it before it sets.
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Old 01-15-2013, 07:44 PM   #11
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As JPF said yes it will be fine. I would go with the 30 minute as opposed to 5 though. The longer the cure time the less brittle the set.

Plus it gives you longer to work with it if you are slow like I am!

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Old 01-15-2013, 07:57 PM   #12
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+ 1 on 15min epoxy. though I use 5 min due to my impatience . Plus, I don't like to hold things together for very long. Dog needs to go out or barking to come in, doorbell rings, wife wants something, etc. Always glueness interuptus at the worst moments.

Make sure to mix it well. I use a piece wax paper over a towel and the back end of a small paint brush to mix. On some foam hinges I apply a small bead of "Welders" glue along the detached joint and hold it together for a few minutes. It's strong yet very pliable. Looks and works good as new.

For reshaping foam, the boiling water method has worked well for me. But I did discover that to avoid the alligator skin affect that this method leaves behind, take a large cold spoon( from fridge) and rub the back side of the spoon to the treated area. Works like a charm !

You should be back in the air soon !

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Old 01-15-2013, 08:01 PM   #13
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Dat's true, the slower setting stuff does have greater strength, but to be honest i'm not sure if i've ever managed to break a well made epoxy joint. The material around the joint is usually the weakest link. For sure with foam any type of epoxy will be stronger than the foam it's joining.

The advantage of the 5 minute stuff for me, other than the saved time, is that you don't need to clamp or pin or tape the parts together while the glue sets. You just hold it together for a couple of minutes and the job is done.

But the slower set is an advantage for more complex set-ups where you need time.
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Old 01-25-2013, 02:49 PM   #14
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Well the plane has been fixed! Installed a new cowl. Glue pilot back in place.

Used epoxy to fasten a couple wooden rods in the wing where it slides into the fuse.
Put the front wing mount back in place.
Plane looks almost good as new!
I don't think I'll fly it again till I get some proper training next Thursday.
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Old 01-25-2013, 04:14 PM   #15
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Good deal!

Repairing is a part of flying for me. Not that I crash but that unforeseen things have caused unexpected damages. I had the canopy fly off on takeoff with my T28 and it caused it to start porpoise'ing out of control and hit the ground hard. Had a flap come off on my Dynam Cessna in flight that sent it to the ground hard.
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