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Old 05-19-2013, 02:45 PM   #176
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Originally Posted by road king 97 View Post
I have never tried using silk and have used fiberglass before . If you can get us some pictures of the silking please i would like to see it. joe
Joe, I've used the silk and varnish approach on every foam scratch build but as I've always got my hands totally full when I'm doing it I never got around to taking any photos at the time.
I'll try to on the next build though! It's so easy to use as well. Basically you just cut a piece of 5 momme silk to size and then lay it onto the foam as you brush the water based varnish through the silk to bond it to the foam beneath. I finish it off by using a pair of plastic gloves on my hands to smooth down the surface of the silk and conform it to the foam surface.
It's very much like the method we used in the old days to cover balsa with dope and tissue. ( Without the fumes!!!)

Barry
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Old 05-19-2013, 02:58 PM   #177
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Originally Posted by baz49exe View Post
Joe, I've used the silk and varnish approach on every foam scratch build but as I've always got my hands totally full when I'm doing it I never got around to taking any photos at the time.
I'll try to on the next build though! It's so easy to use as well. Basically you just cut a piece of 5 momme silk to size and then lay it onto the foam as you brush the water based varnish through the silk to bond it to the foam beneath. I finish it off by using a pair of plastic gloves on my hands to smooth down the surface of the silk and conform it to the foam surface.
It's very much like the method we used in the old days to cover balsa with dope and tissue. ( Without the fumes!!!)

Barry
I have silked and doped old timers but does this shrink like the dope does. joe
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Old 05-19-2013, 04:10 PM   #178
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Joe, I think it does. The silk certainly stretches when it's first soaked in the varnish as it can bulge at that point. That's the time to re tension it over the surface using your gloved hands. As it's woven and not solid, I've noticed that the silk will also compress on itself as well which is useful on difficult shapes. I think both the silk and the varnish tend to shrink when they dry out but not to the same extent that shrinking nitro dope and tissue will.


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Old 05-19-2013, 04:39 PM   #179
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Originally Posted by baz49exe View Post
Joe, I think it does. The silk certainly stretches when it's first soaked in the varnish as it can bulge at that point. That's the time to re tension it over the surface using your gloved hands. As it's woven and not solid, I've noticed that the silk will also compress on itself as well which is useful on difficult shapes. I think both the silk and the varnish tend to shrink when they dry out but not to the same extent that shrinking nitro dope and tissue will.


Barry
Thanks Barry good imfo i will try some next winter .I broke out my plans for Ivans big twin otter and will start cutting sticks anytime now. I bought the laser cut short kit so i hope it saves me a little time but with a 84 inch wing span its still a long build . My build thread will be later on wattflyers after i am almost done ,he he . joe
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Old 05-19-2013, 04:48 PM   #180
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Originally Posted by road king 97 View Post
Thanks Barry good imfo i will try some next winter .I broke out my plans for Ivans big twin otter and will start cutting sticks anytime now. I bought the laser cut short kit so i hope it saves me a little time but with a 84 inch wing span its still a long build . My build thread will be later on wattflyers after i am almost done ,he he . joe
I'm looking forward to your build Joe. I underestimated the effort required to build to 84" span model myself !!
I think the next one will be a little 36" span single engined fighter, perhaps a one piece model as well.

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Old 05-19-2013, 04:54 PM   #181
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Originally Posted by baz49exe View Post
I'm looking forward to your build Joe. I underestimated the effort required to build to 84" span model myself !!
I think the next one will be a little 36" span single engined fighter, perhaps a one piece model as well.

Barry
Here is a artical on Ivan i just caught and the picture of his short solent that made me build one. lol joe http://www.modelairplanenews.com/blo...ck-2/?pid=6720 And here is Ivans site. They even have the Ivans BIMBOS club in the UK . joe
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Old 05-19-2013, 05:03 PM   #182
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UK Ivan builders http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=951408
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Old 05-19-2013, 06:06 PM   #183
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Originally Posted by road king 97 View Post
Thanks for the link Joe. Really nice models, sadly they are quite a way away from me even though England is not that big a country. If I'm down that way I'll certainly try to see them fly!

Barry
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Old 05-19-2013, 06:15 PM   #184
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Originally Posted by baz49exe View Post
Thanks for the link Joe. Really nice models, sadly they are quite a way away from me even though England is not that big a country. If I'm down that way I'll certainly try to see them fly!

Barry
We have one of yours visiting here now ( scott) but i missed him because of work in Chicago. He made to Joe Nall fly in and i know by the pictures he is enjoying himself in the states. joe
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Old 05-19-2013, 06:15 PM   #185
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Default Silk and EPS

Barry, I just finished posting to Michael's S&B ME-262 thread encouraging him (once more) to use silk and acrylic sealer on his EPS type foamies. I agreed that it is not as conducive on EPP (if at all).

Bob

"Dum spiro spero." (While I breathe, I hope).
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Old 05-19-2013, 08:47 PM   #186
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Here ya go Barry .joe
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Old Yesterday, 06:27 AM   #187
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Originally Posted by Voyager2lcats View Post
Barry, I just finished posting to Michael's S&B ME-262 thread encouraging him (once more) to use silk and acrylic sealer on his EPS type foamies. I agreed that it is not as conducive on EPP (if at all).

Bob

Sounds like Michael may have a go at silk and varnish on his new EPS models Bob but he has really got the perfect finish on the EPP ones by using packaging tape as his results would show.
Liked the covering video Bob. I didn't think to use water first as I always hit the silk with varnish immediately.

Barry
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Old Yesterday, 06:41 AM   #188
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Originally Posted by road king 97 View Post
Here ya go Barry .joe
Great video Joe, thanks! The night of the 16th May 1943 was the Dambusters raid on the Rhur dams. The 70th anniversary was commemorated on the 16th and and the RAF memorial flight Lancaster flew low over the Derwent Water Dam which was used during the few weeks of practice that the crews had in 1943 before the raid.



I really hope the link works!!

Barry
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Old Yesterday, 02:21 PM   #189
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I have read about that dam raid before ,Yes i read once in a while ! lmao It was amazing to read about it ,then years later i seen some videos on history channel . If i keep watching these videos of the Lancaster i will be have to order the plans from ivan ,she looks like a gracefull bird. We here in the states here about B-17's /B-25's and very rarely other bombers but i like seeing them all. BTW some friends here treated me to a free ride in a real B-17 three years ago and i was smiling from ear to ear the whole time. joe
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Old Today, 06:58 AM   #190
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Originally Posted by road king 97 View Post
I have read about that dam raid before ,Yes i read once in a while ! lmao It was amazing to read about it ,then years later i seen some videos on history channel . If i keep watching these videos of the Lancaster i will be have to order the plans from ivan ,she looks like a gracefull bird. We here in the states here about B-17's /B-25's and very rarely other bombers but i like seeing them all. BTW some friends here treated me to a free ride in a real B-17 three years ago and i was smiling from ear to ear the whole time. joe
Joe, I'm not surprised that you grinned throughout your B-17 flight; I know I would! I considered the Fortress as my first four motor build as it seemed to have the best proportions for a model. In the end I was drawn to the Lanc as it has such great looks in the air and is not so often modeled.
The chance to actually fly in one would be a lifetime experience for me as well
Got the mat black acrylic onto the sides and bottom of the fuselage yesterday. I'm trying some mixed by the local paint shop and it's going on very well. So well that I'm going to get some upper surface dark earth and dark green mixed as well. It should do the job and it will save me a lot of money compared to the cost of using small tins of model paint.

Barry
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