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#1 | ||
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Build Crash Repair Repeat
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: In Teh Garage Watching Glue Dry
Posts: 118
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Hi Guys
because of some interest in the Corsair I am building I decided to post a build log and show a few tips and tricks of this particular building technique |
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Minister Of Information for the Royal Kingdom Of $Tree
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#2 | ||
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Summerville, SC
Posts: 178
Thanked 13 Times in 13 Posts
Club: Ridgeville AMA
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Man your workspace is cleaner than mine! Looks great so far though. Is that also an f15 your building? I've got the GWS model, love it...not a speed demon but very fun to fly and impressive looking in the air.
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#3 | ||
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New Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Arlington, Texas
Posts: 10
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Looking good what plans are you using.
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#4 | ||
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Summerville, SC
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I believe he's out, ran out of material Corsaircowboy but here are some links for the build and plans. I'm going to start on this tommorrow. Looks like a good build and I don't have a Corsair! Always wanted one, and he was kind enough to start this thread. Good luck.
Originally Posted by FoamHeadMike
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#5 | ||
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Stiff Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Toledo, Ohio
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Oh 'this' forum Mike!
![]() Let me dig up the past here: http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=41792 I did most of the build log over at RC groups, but mirrored the thread here as well. I'm always happy to share w/ my wattflyer buds! |
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FoamCasualty, Resource for RC Scratch Building.
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#6 | ||
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Summerville, SC
Posts: 178
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Stiff member, LMAO...thanks for the link. This one looks pretty cool. Mike seems like a pretty good dude. Looking forward to this one.
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#7 | ||
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Build Crash Repair Repeat
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: In Teh Garage Watching Glue Dry
Posts: 118
Thanked 14 Times in 14 Posts
Club: NGFF Founder & Charter Member
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Uh ho TVC found me
![]() Ya I have been hyping up your corsair a little bit over here I hope you don't mind the exposure on this awesome build! not the easiest build but is sure a pleasure to build especially if you like a little bit of a challenge and will definitely hone your building skills.anything after building this plane will be child s play. I cant say enough good things about how accurate these plans and what a great job TVC did on the development of this awesome old war bird and a big thanks TVC for sharing the plans with the rest of us foam heads. One thing I may need to touch on for anyone considering building this plane is you really need to check your templates to make sure they are as precise as you can get them. Check the fuse templates against themselves by folding them in half to make sure both sides are identical to one another this will insure a perfect fit-up when installing the bulkheads and joining the sections together. Oh and I also would like to mention, that is I think TVC is vacuum forming the canopy's and R2800 power plants to sell for a very reasonable price, correct me on that if I am wrong TVC and maybe you can add a few details for us on those parts you are making. Chris Ya that is a scratch Park Jet F14 that I am waiting on my electronics for so I can get this bird in the air, she should be fast for a push prop jet and thanks for the compliments. Ya I try to keep my work space clean because it can get cluttered up pretty bad pretty quick if I don't. I work out of the garage that doubles as a recording studio and guitar building shop so I try to keep it clean as possible. Yep I ran out of material on this fuse but I built one fuse from Dollar tree foam before I started building from the gray depron i was not getting the results I wanted with the wings using the dollar tree foam so I went to plan b mid stream of that build but now I have a wing made from 6 mm depron. I am going to give the 4 MM dollar tree wings another shot once i get revised wing ribs and I will need ti use a couple of yard sticks as wing spars to stiffen that wing up I believe I will attach some pics of that build and my depron wing for you guys. |
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Minister Of Information for the Royal Kingdom Of $Tree
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#8 | ||
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Build Crash Repair Repeat
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: In Teh Garage Watching Glue Dry
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OK may as well attatch the plans here.you will have to download the sketchup file here
This forum does not support the file otherwise I would put it up here |
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Minister Of Information for the Royal Kingdom Of $Tree
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#9 | ||
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Summerville, SC
Posts: 178
Thanked 13 Times in 13 Posts
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You da man Mike...thanks for all the info. I've been building balsa in some form or fashion (started with free flight as a kid) for about 30 years. Doesn't mean that'll translate into flying through this though, I'm finding with the one I'm building now it's not quite as easy as I thought it would be but still a lot faster than stick and ply balsa. I still love balsa but right now I just can't afford it, covering ain't cheap either and if you crash, well...usually its over. Anyhow, thanks a ton and I'll be following. Do you know if they sell the polymer spray at Wally world or craft stores? Like to pick some up tommorrow if possible.
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#10 | ||
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Build Crash Repair Repeat
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: In Teh Garage Watching Glue Dry
Posts: 118
Thanked 14 Times in 14 Posts
Club: NGFF Founder & Charter Member
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Chris Thanks for those kind words but there is no need to thank me, I am just passing along the info that was already given to us by TVC, he is the one to thank,
Chris you cannot get the polymer coating anywhere but through the manufacturer It is a two part mixture that is just brushed on and it cost about 39 dollars for two quarts shipped but will be worth it if it works like it is supposed to. once I get some I will post results of whether it is good for this type of application and 2 quarts is supposed to be enough to coat several planes because it dont take much at all supposedly. You can go to www.wowplanes.com to view the tutorial of how it is applied, they call it Liquid Sheeting but it is styro spray 1000 and they have marked up the price considerably( like 19 bucks plus shipping for 8 OZ but the tutorial is good to watch to learn how to apply the hard coating. A cheaper method is using diluted Tite Bond wood glue and panty hose stretched over the part to be coated and just brush on the tite bond on to the panty hose. Once the glue cures it gives the foam a hard outer shell that is some what flexible that it will not crack and is sandable and paintable. it takes 2 thin coats of the tite bond then sanded smooth after the application. you will want to allow at least 48 hours for the tite bond to fully cure before sanding and it is best to water sand from what I understand. |
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Minister Of Information for the Royal Kingdom Of $Tree
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#11 | ||
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Build Crash Repair Repeat
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: In Teh Garage Watching Glue Dry
Posts: 118
Thanked 14 Times in 14 Posts
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Oh I forgot to mention that TVC and I have discussed doing a group build workshop for anyone who wants to participate we will try to start up the group build in about 3 weeks you will need to purchase either BluCor FFF from Lowes or 6MM depron, it takes 4 sheets of 15"x39" 1 1/3 sheet for the fuse and 2 sheets for the wing and one sheet of 9MM for the rudder and elevator parts. I usually get my depron Cellfoam88 and EPP through www.RCfoam.com
that will be a start and we should have a parts list together before the workshop starts. I will have more details on the group build in a few days. |
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Minister Of Information for the Royal Kingdom Of $Tree
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#12 | ||
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Summerville, SC
Posts: 178
Thanked 13 Times in 13 Posts
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I'll check out the polymer coating link, I've done the diluted wood glue before, works okay but cracks after a while, then again, never done it with the nylon hose, may have to try that one.
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#13 | ||
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Summerville, SC
Posts: 178
Thanked 13 Times in 13 Posts
Club: Ridgeville AMA
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Finally getting over the H1N1 thang, nearly got put into the hospital for pneumonia! Still not 100 percent but I'm picking back up where I left off. Thanks Mike for the posts and plans, I'll send picks as the fuse comes together. What did you put in yours for power? I have a 35mm 860 KV brushless and a 40 amp esc, little overkill maybe? I have a 28 MM 1150 and 30 amp esc, but that seems it would be underpowered. I'll break out the watt meter once I have the finished weight and figure out what prop I'll use. Sorry for abandoning the board, man was I sick though. Pray you don't get the swine flu, it is a SOB!!!!
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#14 | ||
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Friend Across the Water
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Columbia, SC
Posts: 1,951
Thanked 260 Times in 257 Posts
Club: Not Now- Maybe Never
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There are over 200 (officially acknowledged) cases here on Fort Jackson, but I have thankfully not contracted it.
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"Dum spiro spero." (While I breathe, I hope).
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#15 | ||
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Summerville, SC
Posts: 178
Thanked 13 Times in 13 Posts
Club: Ridgeville AMA
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Yeah, actually I live in Charleston, SC (Summerville) but caught it from my stepdaughter who lives in Houston. Like I said it is a son of a gun to get rid of. Then again, I smoke and that doesn't help and I'm no spring chicken anymore. Take care of yourself, don't get it! Thanks for serving btw, you make us all proud. Old salt myself...
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#16 | ||
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I Want to start this build but am wondering about how to get the plans printed out. do you just take the panel pdf's to a kinko's and have them print them out? or is the Legal Lines version like a tiled pdf? Cant afford to go out and buy a Corsair and this one is looking great. Look forward to any help available. Thanks
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Need More Glue!!!
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#17 | ||
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Summerville, SC
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You can print them yourself or take them to kinkos, tiled means it's be broken down into sections that fit together once printed. They have the same build on RCGroups and I think theres another on this site that you can print the full size plans, those you would take to kinko's and have printed, blueprint size so to speak. Tiled plans have simply been broken up so you can print them out and tape them together. You call PM Mike and see if he has the full size plans. I save the money and print them out myself and tape them together on a workbench.
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#18 | ||
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Build Crash Repair Repeat
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: In Teh Garage Watching Glue Dry
Posts: 118
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Originally Posted by chris123sc
Chris I have not been working on the corsair due to lack of funds I am trying to get everything together for the Group build workshop which will officially begin November 20th
Originally Posted by HeliScRapYard
the legal lines can be pasted together with a glue stick. you will need to get the pattern's as precise as you canas long as you match up the lines end to end and use the edge of a table for a streight edge you will be able to get the patterns very precise. you will also want to copy the revised templates and assemble them also. the templates go together pretty good once you get the sheets cut down in order to match up the lines.
Please go to RC Groups and sign up for the build this way we have a good idea how many people are actually building this warbird plus you can see all of our tips and tricks how the aircraft goes together. I will be putting together some tutorial videos on rolling depron and assembling the fuse sections, there is actually a procedure tat needs to be followed in order to make the build as easy as possible in which I will demonstrate on the videos. I do have a couple of pics of my progress that I can share I plan on resuming this build as soon as I can reorder some Depron. ![]() I am installing the Aileron servos at the aileron. ![]() by pressing down on the servo once ZI got it where it needed to go it made an impression so I can cut out a hole to install the servo. ![]() ![]() then I simply cut out the hole and clean it p ![]() ![]() I simply routed the wires in between the trailing edge where the top and bottom panels meet. ![]() ![]() once I am able to build the ailerons (once I can order the foam and hinges)I will install the ailerons then glue in the servo with poly urethane glue and make a cap then spackle it in the hole should not be noticeable where the servo was cut in. the next wing I build for the workshop I will be installing a push pull system for the ailerons and possibly be installing flaps. TV Casualty (Erik) will be demonstrating how to install a pull pull system on his wing so there will be three options you can choose from. the next wing I build I will also be adding a wing spar just in case someone may want to install a wing spar although I don't think it is really needed unless you plan on doing a lot of serious acrobatics. |
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Minister Of Information for the Royal Kingdom Of $Tree
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#19 | ||
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Summerville, SC
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That answered a question I've been meaning to ask. Seems like it (the wing) would need spars, especially with the gull wing structure. Hot glue does the trick though ey? Good news, no bending or routing. Hard to do without CNC fabrication.
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#20 | ||
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Summerville, SC
Posts: 178
Thanked 13 Times in 13 Posts
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Oh and Heliscrapyard, Mike ain't lying about being precise when gluing the tiles, they may look good to they eye but when you start stenciling the foam, unless they are pretty much exact, they will wrinkle and become disfigured and you won't get smooth lines or symetrical patterns cut. Don't do what I did (this is only my second foam build) and consider this the easy part. Take your time on pasting together the tiles. Pays off big later. Don't mean to sound pretentious or smarmy, it's genuine, I just don't know if you've built foam before.
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#21 | ||
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Build Crash Repair Repeat
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: In Teh Garage Watching Glue Dry
Posts: 118
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Honestly I don't think it needs a spar, I did not put one in this wing and it is very srong the modular construction makes for a solid wing once it is all together however the nex wing I build I am tryig other construction methods
with the dollar tree wing I will most definitely use wing spars for that wing. I will have to make bgger wing formers before I build that wing. |
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Minister Of Information for the Royal Kingdom Of $Tree
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#22 | ||
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Build Crash Repair Repeat
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: In Teh Garage Watching Glue Dry
Posts: 118
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Originally Posted by chris123sc
actually this is one of the more tedious parts of the build If I had to cut out patterns every time I build one of these planes I would be giving Kinkos some business. but I am cheap and tight
![]() I just finished piecing together my next project which is a 4X Micro Pitts. |
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Minister Of Information for the Royal Kingdom Of $Tree
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#23 | ||
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
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It is tedious, but then again if you don't look at this as art or in the least a hobby then your interest in it will be very, very short lived. It's tedious learning to fly well to be honest. I enjoy the building more than the flying (sometimes...). BTW a my next project with the expansive inventory of fan folded blucor I have was going to be at Pitts or a Fokker DR1. Still leaning torwards the DR1...
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#24 | ||
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Build Crash Repair Repeat
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: In Teh Garage Watching Glue Dry
Posts: 118
Thanked 14 Times in 14 Posts
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check this out
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Minister Of Information for the Royal Kingdom Of $Tree
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#25 | ||
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Summerville, SC
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I don't...understand, check what out. I'm guessing here but I don't think your link was included with your post or you are finding it now. Resend Por Favor, I'm excited, you probably have something awesome. BTW, just was GIVEN a neck through, 5 string hero Carvin bass. Man I've got great friends in Dallas, the only condition is I have to pick it up personally and I have to jam with him (which I'm always ready to do anyway), off subject I know but he know's I've always wanted a carvin bass and he's a dealer (has over 200 guitars, 18 Les Pauls). Anyhoo, I'll wait.
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