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Old 05-11-2007, 02:46 PM   #126
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You do better much with graphics in your sleep than I do while awake. I keep wondering if the Seabee is going to fly based on details per cubic inch. Hang in there.
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Old 05-13-2007, 06:47 AM   #127
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Originally Posted by E-Challenged View Post
You do better much with graphics in your sleep than I do while awake. I keep wondering if the Seabee is going to fly based on details per cubic inch. Hang in there.
The problem will be braving flight after all these details.
I wonder if crashing into water is very forgiving?

Finished covering and installing the skylight glass today.
The bottom was first covered with white Econokote. Next, the glass was glued onto the frame. A small flat area of about 1/16" was sanded onto the glass frame area, before gluing. After installing the glass, the edges of the window glass (really clear plastic) were carefully tapered to meet the contour of the roofline. This way, the glass will blend into the roofline after covering the top of the roof with iron-on. The final step is to score the iron-on covering with an exacto blade to make the window perimeter, and then peel off the covering to expose the window. To make this easy, the covering was ironed onto window about 1/16" past where the window line was to be scored. You definitely don't want to iron the covering onto the entire window, as it would be tough to pull off, and the iron heat would warp the clear window plastis.


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Old 05-14-2007, 06:30 AM   #128
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Figured I'd get the motor housing magnetic mounting out of the way. The same magnets that hold the roof down were used. A 1/32" ply floor was made inside the front of the cover for magnet mounting, and for a cleaner look, when viewing inside the front cooling air opening. The rear of the cover is held down by a recessed cut at the bottom of the motor mounting block. The cover can be removed after removing the prop. The roof foam seal was also added to the roof bottom, and seems to be sealing well, verified by sealing my mouth around the roof mating area, while blowing to check for leaks.

It's becoming obvious that I'm doing whatever I can now, to put off the iron-on covering tasks.

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Old 05-14-2007, 01:10 PM   #129
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Started on the wing ribs, simulating the ribbed aluminum sheeting used on the full scale plane. Now say it like Austin Powers, "One Million Wing Ribs!".

The ribs were made from cutting strips from 1/32" light balsa sheeting.
Anyone ever cover something like this with iron-on?
I'm thinking of 2 different methods:
1st method would be to cover the wing by tacking down the entire covering sheet at low temp across the ribs, and then tack it down between the ribs, leaving the higher temp shrinking ability for the last step.
2nd method would be to only tack the covering across the ribs, and leave the space between the ribs as open framework, by not tacking it down to the wing surface between the ribs. Hopefully the ribs would be pronounced enough to still get the effect. This is the way the rudder and elevator were done, since they were not sheeted, but only spar covered.

What I don't believe can be done is to gradually tack the covering down completely, while moving across the wing panel. I think this would turn into a big ball of mess. Kinda like trying to move across a sheeted gull wing like on a Corsair, with one sheet of covering. It can be done, but not that easily.

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Old 05-15-2007, 08:15 AM   #130
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Started on the removable floor sections. I decided on 2 floor sections, 1 front and 1 rear, with the seats attached to each floor section. The plane has 4 seats total. Everything will be removable for component access, and the front floor and seats will be removable for the battery installation/removal, since it will be hidden under the floor.

Also finished the 1 million wing ribs on the top wing panel, with the bottom panel still to go.

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Old 05-16-2007, 07:09 AM   #131
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Finished the bottom wing ribbing. The ribs had to be cut around the strut and float mounts, to provide ample tacking area for the covering. For this side of the wing, I marked the centerlines of the ribs, instead of just a start mark for each rib. This way I could lay the glue lines for 4 or 5 ribs at a time, instead of just 1 or 2. Went much faster this way.

The aileron cable covers are a Parkzone part that I found at the LHS. They were intended to be wing skids, but work perfectly for aileron cable covers, with the ends cut open. Since the full size plane has lever arms that work the ailerons and flaps, they looks better than exposed cables.

The E-Z links on the aileron horns are a FlyZone part. They have a fine thread and tighten better by hand, than the Dubro flat head screw type which has a coarse thread. They also only cost a buck for 2 of them, and you get some FlyZone control horns to boot, whether you need them or not.

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Old 05-17-2007, 07:41 AM   #132
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Made the rear seat and the steering yoke frame today.

The seat was made from 1/32" sheet, with balsa tri-stock added behind the corner seams, adding material to allow for rounding of the edges, which has been performed to the upper backrest of the seat. When finished, the rounds will be much larger, like a real upholstered seat. The servo arm cutout on the floor will be covered with a small raised area. This was done to keep the majority of the floor as low as possible, since I'm trying to keep the interior as scale as possible.

The steering yoke was made to telescope into the instrument panel with a rubber o-ring used for friction. I wasn't sure what the correct depth should be, so this way I can adjust it.
I also devised a method to connect the 2 "steering wheels", yet to be added, so that they turn together in sync (I know its not a car, but close enough). Control line string was used to create a cable spool setup around the 2 rotating outer shafts, so that they turn together. As one could guess, it was a bit of a sonofabits to put together. The setup allows them to turn about 45 degrees in each direction. The extra string hanging out of the right side of the yoke still needs to be cut off. I actually thought of connecting this cable loop to a rotating shaft in the center, to be driven from a micro servo under the dash, which would be connected to the aileron servo port. Would be pretty cool to watch them turn with the ailerons. Oh well, maybe next plane.

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Old 05-17-2007, 12:14 PM   #133
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Bill now you're going to have to put a full bodied pilot inside.
When the yoke moves his arms can move.

Now I see why you don't want to fly these planes when you're done,
it's way too nice.
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Old 05-19-2007, 06:05 AM   #134
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Originally Posted by pd1 View Post
Bill now you're going to have to put a full bodied pilot inside.
When the yoke moves his arms can move.

Now I see why you don't want to fly these planes when you're done,
it's way too nice.
Thanks for the comments. It will be shown for a few, before I risk it.
Im working on the yokes now (steering wheels).
You can barely, and I mean barely, see the center part (sculpted balsa) of one of them behind a white wing, cut out from a photo that I took of another plane on the bench.
They have the square indents in the center part, like the full size. I'll probably make the hand grip loops from black vinly covered #12 copper house wiring tonight. Stiff enough to hold shape, but easy to shape. I also have drawn a templat to shape them over.

I thought about that, meaning servo operated yokes and an action full bodied pilot. I bought a 1/9th scale H9 pilot, but he is a hair too big. Should had bought a 1/8th scale. I have a 1/8th scale Williams Brothers pilot that I may use. I'll at least add a torso to him, although I'll look around for a full bodied figure, at this point.

I should have made the yokes move from a servo. They move together, but I came up with the idea after installing the telescoping friction tube mount for the yoke shaft, under the dash. I could still rework it, to run the yokes from a servo under the dash. The dash is removable for service, since the light switch is mounted behind it also.

I've taken a little Seabee break the past day, to rework my AR234 scratch build. The FlyZone Cessna 180 wing is perfect for the Arado, so I had to get one for a 20 dollar investment.

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Old 05-19-2007, 11:46 AM   #135
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Bill, you've exhibited craftsmanship and attention to detail on this build that's second to none.
I'm disappointed that you spent $20 on a foam wing.

Why don't you cut your own?
Why don't you build from balsa?

I know you have the skill and patience.
If you want to cut your own, I can give you a lot of foam, for free.

$20 just seems like a lot of money for a small foam wing.

I know what you mean about taking breaks, I shelved the HE-51 for now.

I've since built a Sidewinder delta and I'm about half way through a 70% Taurus.
Sometimes it feels nice to have a change of scenery.
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Old 05-19-2007, 03:28 PM   #136
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Originally Posted by pd1 View Post
Bill, you've exhibited craftsmanship and attention to detail on this build that's second to none.
I'm disappointed that you spent $20 on a foam wing.

Why don't you cut your own?
Why don't you build from balsa?

I know you have the skill and patience.
If you want to cut your own, I can give you a lot of foam, for free.

$20 just seems like a lot of money for a small foam wing.

I know what you mean about taking breaks, I shelved the HE-51 for now.

I've since built a Sidewinder delta and I'm about half way through a 70% Taurus.
Sometimes it feels nice to have a change of scenery.
I'll have to take a look at your current builds. Feel free to post links so I can see your builds, since I don't go to that other place anymore. When I finish this build, I may post a smaller than thumbnail size picture of this build in the Seabee thread that my buddy killed off over there, with a link to come here if they really want to see it.

20 bucks isn't much money for anything, these days. Probably should have been $15, but the LHS has to pay premium rent at their location.

I can appreciate the point of not using a ready made wing, and building a frame-up wing. For whatever reason however, I enjoy building fuses much more than wings. I've built a number of parkflyer sized planes, where I pasted a modified $20 replacement wing on a fully scratchbuilt fuse. I just posted in the Jet forum here yesterday, about the new FlyZone Cessna 180 wing that fits perfectly on my older Arado 234 EDF parkflyer build. The retrofitting is in progress right now.

The EXACT answer to why I don't cut my own foam:
Because it would involve investing time and money on building the cutter that is not spent DIRECTLY in building a plane. You asked for it, you got it. Same reason a lot of other things don't get done around here either. Still would really like to build one someday, as I've been threatening for a good while now.

When I first started building, I would never have touched foam, and was a balsa purist.
There are a number of reasons that master modelers all over the world use foamcore wings, and foamcores for entire planes, for that matter. Most of those folks were probably pretty reluctant in the first place, just like I was, until finding the advantages. For the balsa purists, Hey, at least my wing tips and Horner tips are fully frame up construction.

For this specific build which is a sea plane, the idea of having a giant surfboard, versus a structure that can break up and fill with water, is a good reason in itself. Foam also made the complex mounting and sealing of the wing to cabin mating easy to reinforce and tweak. The bottom line is that once sheeted, or at least covered with iron on, a balsa constructed wing has nothing on a foam one. That's the main thing that got me into foam. I think bare foam is ugly, and bare EPP is the ugliest.

After 30,000 pages, I guess the build history has been lost
As for this wing core, it is EPP and has worked well so far, easily accepting standard CA and activator, with no issues. The wing core came before the project, and actually motivated the project at first. It was kindof like, "Well I have this core that looks like it could be used, and I see this decent, uncompleted 2-view that this guy's posted that I could enlarge and scratch build from, so what the heck, let's get started".
I never envisioned what this build would turn into, since I had no clue of how it would come together. The very nature of the build would have gone fully against a frame wing. Without a plan, things are constantly being changed and revised. Building a framed wing would have involved making a detailed plan, and having to work out all the future details for the wing at that time, which would have gone entirely against the method in which everything has been done.

Hope all that makes sense, since this isn't exactly the usual building method.
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Old 05-19-2007, 09:15 PM   #137
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Bill, I'm with you as to what materials to use.
I'll use anything.
I got a free stash of white foam, looking for some project to use that stuff in.

I built a couple of GWS kits last year and I'm having a ball.

The Sidewinder thread is in the general plane discussion site over here.
I'll do the Taurus after I get some more work done on it.

I think I want to get the plane finished or close to finished before starting the build thread.
Resizing the pictures and typing at my speed take too much time out from building.
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Old 05-20-2007, 06:09 AM   #138
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Finished the steering yokes today. The #12 copper house wire worked well for the handgrips. The only problem with the setup now, is that it is tricky to get to the light switch below the yoke shaft on the instrument panel.
The pics flashed too bright, but the embossed detail in the center sections of the yokes is actually there.

The first 2 pics show how the wheels turn together by the internal cable spool setup, made using control line string. The 3rd pic shows the setup in place, installed in the instrument panel.

The last pic shows, well you guessed it, I know somebody's gonna mention it, so might as well just get it out of the way.

Bill


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Old 05-23-2007, 09:14 AM   #139
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I've returned to the Seabee, after having some fun with some other projects. pic3

Back to Doll House Furniture Making 101.
Finshed the front seat. The interior is pretty much complete now, less paint and adding magnets to hold the seat/floor assemblies in place. Both seats unpainted are 1/2 oz. I wish I had mounted the steering column a hair higher, but the seat still fits. I can adjust the mount, but unless I use a pilot with legs, there will be no problem. As of now, the pilot will be a torso body pilot.

Bill


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Old 05-23-2007, 01:51 PM   #140
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Ah, the dreaded tri motored FW.

The interior of your plane is more detailed and better than the exterior of mine.
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Old 05-23-2007, 08:58 PM   #141
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I am beginning to feel like a monk translating ancient greek to latin and illustrating each page with ornate graphics and illustrations. You must be talking to yourself and getting wierd answers too. My P-26 is finally taking shape as you saw on E-Zone. I am not looking forward to doing all the swoopy multi-colored graphics but if I can keep slogging along I'll get 'er done. I'm hoping to get our club pres, who does graphics, to make me up a set of roundels, numerals and letters U.S.Army etc. in the next few days so I can get it done and ready for maiden flight and in-flight pictures before the end of the month contest deadline. Your Seabee is going to be too purty to put in the water and attempt to commit aviation with it. I see it hanging in Kenmore Aviation's office at the seaplane base.
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Old 05-26-2007, 04:53 PM   #142
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Originally Posted by E-Challenged View Post
I am beginning to feel like a monk translating ancient greek to latin and illustrating each page with ornate graphics and illustrations. You must be talking to yourself and getting wierd answers too. My P-26 is finally taking shape as you saw on E-Zone. I am not looking forward to doing all the swoopy multi-colored graphics but if I can keep slogging along I'll get 'er done. I'm hoping to get our club pres, who does graphics, to make me up a set of roundels, numerals and letters U.S.Army etc. in the next few days so I can get it done and ready for maiden flight and in-flight pictures before the end of the month contest deadline. Your Seabee is going to be too purty to put in the water and attempt to commit aviation with it. I see it hanging in Kenmore Aviation's office at the seaplane base.
They do have some schemes that would require some work on the P26.
I spent forever finding and rescaling the correct Indian graphic for the fuse. Still didn't look quite like the original Sterling version.

PD1, its my old Arado234 wing, with the fans stripped out, mounted on a Guillows 190 fuse. Flys like all hell's get out.

Bill
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Old 06-02-2007, 09:05 AM   #143
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Finally back on this, after a hiatus of maidening a number of planes that have been hanging from the strings for a number of years. Fortunately, they are all still in one piece, but maidens mean repairs and rework.
I'm going to have to quit flying, to finish this project. I can't seem to leave a repairable plane unrepaired for any length of time, and they're hogging all my time.

Finished covering the Seabee floor sections with Econokote. I opted for 1/32" balsa with covering, since the end result is more durable than 1/16" without covering, and weighs about the same. The seats will be painted with Sig dope. I thought about covering them, but I'll have plenty of covering to do soon, as it is.

The interior is held in with 2 sets of magnets. The rear seat will be glued to the back panel, which attaches with magnets to the rear cabin (pic 2). These small 1/8" dia Hobby Lobby RE magnets are good for the task, since they will hold the parts in, but did need to be fitted well, since they are not that strong. That will be good, since I don't want it to be like pulling teeth, to remove the parts.

The front seat will be glued to the front floor, which has a post mounted magnet to hold the floor in place. This assembly will be removed for batt access. (Pic3) There is a small area of frontmost floor that is permanently installed, since the scale pilots won't want things falling under the floor, if a large void is left. At the very front, there is an opening above the batt for venting. The rear seat assembly will normally be left installed in the airplane, since it does not need to be removed for batt access.


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Old 06-05-2007, 07:36 AM   #144
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Took a pic of everything loosely fit together. Gotta do that every now and then, for motivation.

Getting ready to start covering the fuse. The strip pattern is roughly penciled on the plane, so I could write down the dimensions, and determine where to overlap the blue and white covering that will be used. The dark blue stripes will overlap the covering seam.

Finished painting the seats, and glued the seats to the pans. The front seat and floorpan assembly are a bit tricky to r&r for battery access, now that they are glued together as one part , but it simlifies having to r&r both parts separately. Now that I have the trick down pat, on how to finagle it in and out, its not too bad. The interior parts are held in place with RE magnets.

I bought a H9 pilot, but at 1/8 scale, its too big, and should have got 1/9th. I'm using a Williams Brothers pilot, which I always liked, but you have to make the torso, if you want one. The torso was made with 1/32" balsa, worked around a frame consisting of 2 side pieces and top and bottom frames, made to match the torso perimeter of the pilot. A little sanding and filler, and the seam's not too bad. I painted his shirt with paint that was made for my Alfa FW190. It doesn't match the Alfa all that well, but looks good on his shirt, to go with the plane's scheme.


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Old 06-05-2007, 02:10 PM   #145
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Looks very nice Bill. Maiden in two weeks?

Tom
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Old 06-05-2007, 07:48 PM   #146
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Originally Posted by Grasshopper View Post
Looks very nice Bill. Maiden in two weeks?
Thanks
If I stayed at it.
It been easy to get distracted with other projects, since I'd rather build, than have to work on covering 2-tone schemes with striping. Covering's one of those things you've gotta really be in the mood for.

Bill
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Old 06-05-2007, 08:34 PM   #147
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Bill, have been following this build since you started it on the "other" site. always enjoy your builds and admire your craftsmanship. keep up the good work.
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Old 06-06-2007, 07:44 AM   #148
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Thanks for the comments David. I guess I should take a look to see what you're doing over there. Any new Luft builds?

Seabee:
Well its not going to cover itself, so I finally got started. As they say, the hardest part is getting started. Could have made this easier by painting the blue and white 2-tone, but paint has limited success bonding to iron-ons. It probably is actually easier to work with smaller pieces on the fuse anyways. Still may end up painting the blue a bit darker, but it will have a good base color, so that any inevitable paint chips won't stand out too bad.

Started by laying in corner seams, in the rear cabin area where the covering sections will join. The stripe pattern dimensions have been determined, since I needed to pencil the seam line between the white and blue on the fuse sides. The dark blue top stripe on the fuse side will overlap the seam. Actually wasn't as bad as I thought. I'm convinced that its ok to poke pin holes to remove trapped air, since they tend to seal up before you can even get the air out. The iron-on backing glue seems to have no problem sealing the tiny pin tip holes, although I didn't need to make too may of them. Not too worried about the wood, since its been soaked from both sides with many coats of dope.

The fun part next will be to apply the upper fuse white covering, and work it around the raised ribs, which were added to simulate the ribs on the real plane. I may cover the ribbed wing as if it were a form and stringer build, and not push the covering down to the sheeting below the ribs. Depends on how pronounced they look if done this way. I'll experiment with the ailerons.


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Old 06-06-2007, 03:02 PM   #149
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hi, Bill.
have got the layout done for a Ju 128 in depron - probably for the new hobby lobby fan and jetscreamer motor. need to clean up the work area to have room to do it.
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Old 06-11-2007, 07:23 AM   #150
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Trying to get back on this thing again, since I took a break to do a little Cox Wings 190. Keep realizing the Seabee will not cover itself. Since the toughest part is always getting started, I may have the motivation now to keep going.

Got the main fuse cabin covered now, which will still need blue striping, after the rest is covered. The junk seen on the blue is there since I haven't cleaned the covering grime off yet. Was actually easier to work the covering than I expected. Using Econokote for the white was a good choice, since it was much easier to work around the curved nose and the raised ribs. The raised ribs turned out pretty well, adding a nice touch of detail to the fuse. I'm now glad that I didn't decide to glue them on later, as it looks better with them seamlessly under the covering job.

Bill


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