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Old 08-16-2007, 02:08 AM   #1
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Default Electrifly Rimfire Motors why would anyone buy these

There is a serious problem with Rimfire motors, they spit the motorshaft after just a couple of hours causing lockup and destruction of the motor. These things are junk yet aren't that cheap. I have 14 dollar CD rom motors that have at least 50 hours on them and they are reliable.

Why would anyone pay 40 bucks and up for a motor that isn't even as good as the bargain ones???
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Old 08-16-2007, 03:00 AM   #2
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Um, how many times has this happened to you?

It's easy to be wise. Just think of something stupid to say and then don't say it.
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Old 08-16-2007, 04:25 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by Ribcracker View Post
Um, how many times has this happened to you?
There seem to be quite a few guys out there with the same unfortunate experience: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=719568

I have never believed the optimistic specs which accompany Rimfire motors..... so I have never wanted to try/buy one!
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Old 08-20-2007, 02:49 PM   #4
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Never had a problem with my 42-50-800.....seemes to be only the 28 motors.

AMA 869130/LSF 8042

Currently planeless
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Old 08-20-2007, 03:04 PM   #5
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I don't own one but I know a guy that does, he has all kinda flight time on his and he has crashed his plane so many times with the motor on it. its on a small blasa 3d plane.

Sorry your having bad luck.

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Old 08-20-2007, 03:10 PM   #6
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You're correct Bill only the ones with the built in prop saver have this problem. The screws on the propsaver are the only thing that holds the shaft in the motor. The bad part is that when I bought mine there was nothing in the literature that came with the motor explaining this or instructions to tighten them using loctite. Electrifly recently put a tech bulletin on their website but that doesn't do me any good now.

By the way, the shaft is smooth so even tightening the screws doesn't last. It just seems like it would be too easy for the manufacturer to mill a flat on the shaft where the Prop Saver screws contact it and the problem would be solved.

Anyway, Great Planes and Electrifly don't respond to E-mails and when I called on the phone all I got was lip service and no help or offer of replacement.
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Old 08-21-2007, 10:22 PM   #7
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Default RimFIRE well named

I recently purchased a rimfire 28-22-1380 from Tower Hobby. It ran for less than 5 minutes with a small APC 6X4 prop using Great Planes LiPO 11.1V 910 mAh and an Electrifly SS-12 brushless ESC before it gave a puff of smoke and died.

I am returned the motor for warrent and recieved a replacement.

The same thing happened to another 28 Rimfire I had in a foamie which I actually had a flame from the motor start in on the plane!- I sent it back for warenty and am waiting for a reply. ??

I have use numerous other "cheap" brands of brushless motors with no problems.

Perhaps they should try renaming them Rimflame. Just think of the realistic airial combat !

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Old 08-22-2007, 12:50 AM   #8
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Great Planes imports these motors from China. The ones with the built in prop saver seem to have most of the problems. They draw excessive current and overheat, the bearings drag, and the motor shafts come out because the soft screws used in the prop saver aren't strong enough to hold the shaft when the motors are used in reverse.

If Electrifly replaces your motor then consider yourself very lucky.
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Old 08-25-2007, 07:40 PM   #9
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Or, if you are too vocal about it, "they" may get you "banned" from posting about the problem. This happened to me, but it's probably a "favor" in a way!
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Old 05-22-2010, 03:30 PM   #10
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So what can i do with the 3 rimfire 28 motors that have smoked.Other than not buy them anymore.Electrifly hasn't given me any answers.
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Old 05-22-2010, 05:23 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Windy_planes View Post
So what can i do with the 3 rimfire 28 motors that have smoked.Other than not buy them anymore.Electrifly hasn't given me any answers.

I have a Great Planes "Edge 540T" model. The manual recommends the GP Rimfire 42-50-800 brushless outrunner motor.

This is a direct quote from page 20 of the manual for this model.

"The motor gets hot! Do not touch during or after operation."

Needless to say, I did not install a Rimfire motor. My model is using a Hacker A40 series motor that is only slightly warm after a hard flight. (10 degrees above ambient temperature)

IMHO, any motor that is running over 100 watts per ounce of motor weight is pushing the motor windings. Some of these Rimfire motors are running double that value. If you run the recommended Rimfire setup through Motocalc, the Motocalc opinions gives warnings about overheating the motor.
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Old 05-22-2010, 07:38 PM   #12
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I have never understood brand loyalty. I have been buying generic everything since the 70's with little problems and saved loads of cash.
Most brands buy the generics and stick their label on them anyway. At times they even have the generic manufacturers make the item with inferior parts to get a better price (Sears did this alot with craftsman tools). As for RC stuff, 90% of everything available is made in a handful of factories in the Shenzhen district of China. If it doesn't have "Made in USA" proudly displayed on it, guess where it was made.
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Old 05-22-2010, 07:40 PM   #13
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Odd - I have run a number of the Rimfire motors (mostly larger ones) and they have given me excellent service and reliability. I have run two of the smaller ones ~150 size with great results too.

Just my $0.02

Mike
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Old 05-22-2010, 07:52 PM   #14
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Were they any better than the equivalents direct from China (HobbyKing Et Al) and worth the extra cost?
I haven't had a problem with inexspensive Chinese equipment. I must note that I only have park and slow flyers.
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Old 05-22-2010, 08:34 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by dbcisco View Post
If it doesn't have "Made in USA" proudly displayed on it, guess where it was made.
Well none of mine have "Made in USA" displayed on them. That's because most were made in Germany or the Czech Republic. Works for me .

Steve
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Old 05-22-2010, 09:07 PM   #16
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My big question is can these motors be rewound..i need resources to start..The big key is i need help..
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Old 05-22-2010, 09:20 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by slipstick View Post
Well none of mine have "Made in USA" displayed on them. That's because most were made in Germany or the Czech Republic. Works for me .

Steve
I hear you. The European manufacturers make high quality stuff as a general rule. That is their major PR focus and selling point. However, even super expensive hobby companies like Marklin are having their products made in China and simply selling them as their own (at a huge profit). Unfortunately only the USA has strict laws concerning the use of "made in XXX". If they are actually made in Europe they are usually high quality but if they are just rebranding Chinese items (more and more common) then you end up paying several times more for a fancy label. Welcome to the global marketplace. Caveat Emptor.
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Old 05-22-2010, 09:42 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Windy_planes View Post
My big question is can these motors be rewound..i need resources to start..The big key is i need help..
Yes, you probably can rewind the burned out motors you have.

You can start by checking out the thread in this forum. In there you'll find discussions about winding and re-winding motors as well as links to resources outside WattFlyer on the technical issues and theory behind brushless motor winding.

I have only rewound one brushless motor but I was able to use a slightly heavier wire than the original and gained in both performance and efficiency over the original manufacturer's wind.
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Old 05-23-2010, 12:14 AM   #19
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i guess i'm kinda weird but, i only run Hi-Max and E-flite motors on my electrics.....i've only been flying electrics for about 1 1/2-2 yrs......i only run the high end O.S. 2 strokes in my nitro planks, haven't had any problems in over 25 yrs. of flying and they alway's hold one hell of an "IDLE"......never owned an O.S. LA, not enough low-end for my style......i'm running all .46AX and 55AX O.S. engines in my nitros, gas 'em up, fly all day....no dead-sticks......no problem......it's not so much that i like spending more for my motors, i just hate getting ready all week to go flying and then spend all weekend fighting with my motors.......Thank You, O.S.......JMHO........thanx for listening........(KOOLKRABBER47........P.S.......t hanx for warning me about RIMFIRE, Though.......Yuk!!!!!.......
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Old 05-23-2010, 01:08 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by dbcisco View Post
I have never understood brand loyalty. I have been buying generic everything since the 70's with little problems and saved loads of cash.
Most brands buy the generics and stick their label on them anyway. At times they even have the generic manufacturers make the item with inferior parts to get a better price (Sears did this alot with craftsman tools). As for RC stuff, 90% of everything available is made in a handful of factories in the Shenzhen district of China. If it doesn't have "Made in USA" proudly displayed on it, guess where it was made.
Yeah
Just bought a brand new Hacker A50-12S motor. The instructions were printed in Germany. The motor is manufactured in China. Figures.

At any rate, putting the China made motor along side of one of my two year old German made motor resulted in identical performance. Time will tell if the bearings are also identical. Come to think of it, maybe the German assembled motors used parts made in China??
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Old 05-23-2010, 01:42 AM   #21
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I have three rimfire and three ammo motors of varying sizes. None of them have given me a moments grief.
But it's not a loyalty thing. My motors run the whole spectrum of brand names.
These aren't Swiss watches, ala Hacker, Kontronic, et. al. but they seem to give plenty of bang for the buck.
No complaints here!

It's easy to be wise. Just think of something stupid to say and then don't say it.
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Old 05-23-2010, 01:59 AM   #22
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I bought a few from Hobby King , all Turnigy brand. My most recent 35-48 -1100 came with the male bullet ends not soldered on at all. Solder was in the hollow end and was on the wire but the two were not connected. They were held in place by the heat shrink tubing. You can image the fun I had when my favorite plane was sparking while 70 feet in the air.

So I had to solder them myself. I like the price and will buy more from them but I will check it alot closer.
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Old 05-23-2010, 03:11 AM   #23
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The first brushless motor I bought five years ago when I got started flying electrics was a Rimfire 22M-1000. It is still working fine. I never bought any more Rimfires because after learning more about electrics I discovered that there are many other brushless motors available that are as good or better for much less money.
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Old 05-23-2010, 03:25 AM   #24
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I've only bought one Rimfire motor, back when I was too dumb to figure out that you don't have to use the manufacturer's recommendation

I only made one flight and then sold the whole shebang (decided I didn't like the plane).

Interestingly, my Eflite motors (a Park 300 and 370 and 370 inrunner) have gotten noisier and rougher than my Turnigy and other "off brand" motors in the same timeframe.
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Old 05-23-2010, 03:32 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by MadMonkey View Post
I've only bought one Rimfire motor, back when I was too dumb to figure out that you don't have to use the manufacturer's recommendation

I only made one flight and then sold the whole shebang (decided I didn't like the plane).

Interestingly, my Eflite motors (a Park 300 and 370 and 370 inrunner) have gotten noisier and rougher than my Turnigy and other "off brand" motors in the same timeframe.
Wow, small world. Thats exactly why I bought my Rimfire.
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