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E-Flite Helicopters Discuss E-Flite helicopters in this forum such as the Blade CX, Blade CX2, Blade CP Pro and all other E-Flite rc helis.

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Old 01-26-2006, 12:38 AM   #76
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Oh boy, now the wheels are turning. He's over there plotting on a new paper plate flyer. Coming soon to a dealer near you.

I did fly it tonight. Cooooool. Need to adjust the linkage a little. It travels backward even with the trim all the way. We'll fix that and the costomer should have a ready to go heli when he picks it up tomorrow.

We got one in stock I'm debating. Pay bills..........fly heli.......pay bills......
Oh what a quandry.

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Old 01-26-2006, 09:26 AM   #77
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Ok Debbie,
Just outfit the heli with a night flying module. Then when they turn the power off, you can just keep hovering Really though the cx is a blast be cause you don't have to go out to fly it. Just charge and fly around wherever you are. I have tried to wear mine out and it is still like the day I took it out of the box. I have owned a few heli's and this one has been the most maintnance free just charge it and fly it helicopter I have yet to own. Well worth every penny. And hasn't costed me one more than I spent to buy it! That's the best part of all oh..except the heat sink.
that was a good investment for $8.00 I still have all of the other spares in the bag they came in..
Take care,
Jay

There are two dogs inside of me. One is good, one is evil.
These two dogs are always fighting a constant battle.
Which dog wins? The one I feed the most...
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Old 01-27-2006, 05:58 AM   #78
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Default blade cx fixes

I was also blessed with a blade cx for christmas. Have been enjoying flying it anywhere and everywhere. I accidently slid it off a desk in my classroom when deskhopping with it. Broke the flybar head, lower linkage and 3 blades in different places. Have to wait 2 weeks for replacement parts. With some ca and epoxy, I put everything back together and it is back in the air. Blades can't be too well balanced due to the epoxy, yet flies with no wobble.
Wondering if anyone has tried adjusting the linkage on the servo arms to get more throw? Does it give the heli more movement in the air?
Looking forward to advancing to the next level of heli flight.
Stefan
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Old 01-27-2006, 11:28 PM   #79
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Hi Stefan,
Welcome to Wattflyer! One thing about what you mentioned concerning using ca and epoxy resin to fix your blades. Please be very careful and do not fly the Bladecx around other people until you get new blades. They could come apart, in-flight and really hurt someone. I'm not trying to be harsh on you. They are bound to come apart at some point and they will be spinning when they do. You don't want to be resonsible for taking someones eye out I'm sure. If your flying by yourself, at least wear some shades. I have seen a .50 size (600mm) carbon fiber blade come off a raptor once and it stuck in a pick-up truck door like a ginsu. Please be safe.. We are happy to have you here and hear about you cx. come visit often.
Jay

There are two dogs inside of me. One is good, one is evil.
These two dogs are always fighting a constant battle.
Which dog wins? The one I feed the most...
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Old 01-30-2006, 09:39 AM   #80
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Originally Posted by jacksost View Post
Wondering if anyone has tried adjusting the linkage on the servo arms to get more throw? Does it give the heli more movement in the air?
Looking forward to advancing to the next level of heli flight.
Stefan
if you move the links out 1 space,it realy moves alot.
but you HAVE to shorten the flybar 3/4 inch on each side or you will get a nasty blade clash!

also ,the xrb center shaft and flybar fit perfict and the flybar for the xrb has realy cool paddles.
if your looking for the next level...read this
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=454677

doing that will get you this
LINK
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Old 02-05-2006, 12:34 AM   #81
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Default CX unable to hover after starting peak?

So my new Blade CX just arrived today. I put everything together, following the instructions in the box. I followed all the preflight instructions and added the heatsink and training gear I got with my order. The blades are not misaligned; I don't "see double" from the side when spinning stuff up.

All seems mostly well, except that after a very brief time (it feels like 30 seconds, but my son timed it and it's 2-3 minutes) the power sags and I can't hover out of ground effect anymore. I suspect this corresponds to the initial higher voltage available on any LiPo battery.

The things that I suspect may be affecting this:
1. I live at about 5000 feet elevation. This affects all of my planes. I always have to go for a bigger motor spinning a bigger or higher-pitched prop in order to have a hope of getting nice flying performance from my planks.
2. I noticed that, during initial rotor spin-up tests, the top rotor seems to "wobble" at very low RPMS. This seems to stabilize as the motor winds up, but I'm thinking... could the top blade be badly out of balance or something? If so, maybe it's time to break out the electrical tape and start experimenting. Actually, that's where I think I'm going to start in just a few minutes.
3. At high RPMs while hovering, the heli gets a terrible wobble along the whole airframe and the training gear. Some people have said that removing the training gear fixes the problem, but my suspicion is that it doesn't actually "fix" it. It just makes it less noticeable since you're dragging less weight and losing less power due to vibration.
4. Perhaps a motor is drawing too much current? How many amps should this be drawing from the battery in a static test? I'll hook up my multimeter after dinner to see how much I'm drawing at full throttle while weighted.

(Note: I just checked this using my Triton charger. It's only refilling about 160mAh of the 800mAh, so that tells me it's not a current over-draw. The charger also took the same battery to empty, exactly 800mAh after filling, then back to full, exactly 800mAh. Seems that it's drawing about 55mAh per minute, which would equate to about 800/55=14.54 minutes of flight time if I ran it down to minimum voltage. About right. So I'm not drawing too much power, whatever else I'm doing. I trust my Triton; it's a really useful tool in combination with a stopwatch for determining amp draw!)

5. The LiPo is slightly warm when pulling it out after just the 2-3 minutes of flying. Although sort of neat-looking, it's no fun to just skim the heli along the ground in ground effect the whole time...

You know, after typing this up, I think the combination of altitude and vibration is what's killing performance. The gears seem a little tight (I can feel the clicks when I spin the rotos by hand), but not excessively so. But if you guys have other suggestions, I'd love to hear it!

At least I have not crashed the thing. I'm a pretty careful pilot
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Old 02-05-2006, 05:28 AM   #82
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Hi redgiki, I have a couple of blade cx and and I have a few suggestions. If you feel confident flying without the training gear it will help the performance quite a bit. I also feel the balancing charger that came with the cx charges at about 500ma. and also keeps the cells balanced gives the best results and does not heat the cells. I have heard that if the cells heat on charge it is not a good thing. Don't have any facts to back up that statement. I am fairly new to lipo's care and feeding so I am still learning myself. We have several CX in the group I fly with in a local gym and we are all learning that weight is the enemy of small heli's.
The other tip is on rudder trim drift, which can be cured by cutting a 1"x 2" opening in the top of the canopy and another on the bottom under the 4in1 radio. It lets a lot of cooling air to the unit. If you find the rudder trim at the end of travel you can power down the heli and center the trim on the trasmitter and then power up the heli and you will get things back to center. Didn't meant to get so wordy but hope it helps. I love my CX's and hope you have fun with yours. good luck, Dan
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Old 02-05-2006, 09:18 AM   #83
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Originally Posted by funnysticks View Post
If you feel confident flying without the training gear it will help the performance quite a bit.
Yeah, I tried that out on a flight tonight. Without the gear, power doesn't end up sagging so much. With the gear, if I only fly for 30-45 seconds at a time, there's enough power to climb and be fine, through an entire pack. It seems like it's a combination of factors, chief among them that the motors get too hot, and the LiPos can't sustain the kind of drain I'm putting on them running at nearly full throttle constantly just to stay in the air.

No gear? It flies fine at this altitude, for as long as I am able to keep it there.


I also feel the balancing charger that came with the cx charges at about 500ma.
Actually, that's right in the specs for the charger. I'm pretty intimately familiar with LiPos, having used them for the last year in several capacities, and having blown one pack through improper heat management.

and also keeps the cells balanced gives the best results and does not heat the cells.
Well, keeping them "balanced" is a relative thing. You can actually accomplish the same thing by charging at a very low rate on a charger without balance connections. Overcharge on the high pack will bleed off as heat, and if you're charging at very, very low amps, the heat will be minimal. Fact is, any pack that's not damaged should be charging fairly evenly anyway. You normally only see imbalances after a lot of charge/discharge cycles, or if you're using a pack made of many cells (like 3S2P or 6S1P or something). On my packs without a balance connector, I charge at a very low rate -- about 1/4C, whatever "C" is -- overnight, and that brings the voltages back pretty much in sync. Hundreds of flights later, once I learned that trick they are still going strong. I buy all my new packs with balance plugs though!

So a balance connector isn't essential, but it sure is useful if you don't want to be pedantic about low-rate charges every few weeks.

I have heard that if the cells heat on charge it is not a good thing.
Well, they'll naturally get a little warm on discharge, when you're flying. They should never feel warm to the touch when you're charging; if they are, disconnect them.

weight is the enemy of small heli's.
I'm learning this, to my chagrin! Part of my plan was to play with my son by airlifting certain of his toys from one place to another. I'm thinking that, with the CG issues on such a small heli, that's not such a bright idea. Maybe knock things over, but not try to carry them across the room!

The other tip is on rudder trim drift...
I read a great deal about the CXs prior to buying one. The heatsink alone doesn't quite do the job, nor does running with the canopy off. I'll be Dremeling holes in the 4-in-1 case tonight for sure!

If you find the rudder trim at the end of travel you can power down the heli and center the trim on the trasmitter and then power up the heli and you will get things back to center.
I forgot that tip; thanks! Just did that a moment ago, and it really helped. I was cranked all the way to the left (I have my pot set so that I need to correct a little nose-right at the start), and still spinning a touch. Definitely need that ventilation on the gyro.
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Old 02-06-2006, 12:50 PM   #84
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I think that maybe I'm not having the heat problems as it is usually cooler here. It has been winter since I got my Blade cx and it is cool, even in the house. I'm thinking I may have more trouble in the summer when it warms up. I am 300 ft. above sea level here. I use my TP charger on the batteries and about every fourth charge I use the factory charge/balancer. I have had good luck with that. One thing I have noticed about the Blade CX is that the servos are at 45* from each other rather than 90* So instead of using one servo for pitch and one for yaw, it uses both any way you move, robbing the little drive motors of power. When a lot of input is applied you have to really compensate with the throttle. That took me a while to get used to..
Jay

There are two dogs inside of me. One is good, one is evil.
These two dogs are always fighting a constant battle.
Which dog wins? The one I feed the most...
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Old 02-06-2006, 04:28 PM   #85
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Default A lot of input?

Originally Posted by zappedalaskan View Post
When a lot of input is applied you have to really compensate with the throttle. That took me a while to get used to.
I thought the extra throttle was required because the CX lost lift due to the counter-rotation of one of the blades being slowed down in order to pirouette? I haven't noticed a need to apply lots of throttle in pitch/roll movements, only in yaw. Of course, you have to apply a little bit when pitching or rolling, because you're losing lift in a heli and "sliding downhill"...
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Old 02-06-2006, 04:36 PM   #86
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I am reminded of my Airforce stint in Alaska when ever I see one of your posts. I was at Elmendorf AFB from '57 to '59 and made my first sucessful r/c flights then on a field at Ft. Richardson liason field. This was single channel escapement stuff, and we all flew on 27.255 mhz. The things we are doing with the new equipment we have were not even dreamed of then. A battery powered helicopter with multi channel radios fully proportional. NO WAY will this ever happen. Well here we are and now the sky is the limit. I am having more fun at 68 yrs of age than I ever have.
I have been reading all of the posts here and have learned so much from all of you with your various experiences. Keep it coming. Thanks, Dan
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Old 02-06-2006, 05:28 PM   #87
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Originally Posted by redgiki View Post
I thought the extra throttle was required because the CX lost lift due to the counter-rotation of one of the blades being slowed down in order to pirouette? I haven't noticed a need to apply lots of throttle in pitch/roll movements, only in yaw. Of course, you have to apply a little bit when pitching or rolling, because you're losing lift in a heli and "sliding downhill"...
That is strange, because mine will hold a hover to pirouette around (rudder) It is when I get after the left stick (axis) that it loses power and drops. It took some getting used to.. Whith my bigger heli's I use the Rev-loc to hold the head speed up and you don't get that effect at all. The only other fixed pitch helicopter I have is a hummingbird I did some trading for, I cannot get it to hover at all. So I just punch it up into the air, and fly it like an airplane basically. Until ready to land, then I bring it at me, flair it out and set it down before it starts squirming around. I got it thinking I could fly it inside during the winter. Boy was I wrong. As it turned out it is the hardest helicopter I own to fly. The Blade cx is the only way to go for indoor flying. The XRB Hirobo is good to, but you have to modify the foam blades. and it is $100 more.
From what I have read on here, it seems like they are all a little different. Some people have had a lot of trouble and other hardly any. Like you said above though, I am a careful flyer as well. I have tipped it over and ran into things, but if you chop the throttle when it tips or you know your going to hit. It seems to be the trick. Or at least works for me
I wish you all the best with your BCX and hope it brings you many fun filled flights. I think is is a great deal for the money..
Dan,
I lived in anchorage for two years when I was 14~15 And that was where I aquired my love for flying rc's. A friend's dad used to take him and I out to liason field to fly our trainer planes. There where several older gentlemen out there, but one guy (he worked for the FAA) Had a quarter scale Fokker-DR1 (At the time I just thought of it as a Red Baron plane) It was gas powered and have a stuffed snoopy with aviator goggles and the scarf on even. Watching that big old warbird flying around got me hooked and I have owned some sort of flying object every since. I am working on 37 now. I have lived here in Fairbanks most of my life, but there is really no one to fly with here and no good fields to fly off of, so I took up helicopters early on. Now days with the newer EP planes that you can toss, then spot land them for the most part. I find myself getting back into planes more. I love to build them. But every time I got one built I would sell it to pay for helicopter parts or kits..
Happy hovering folks..
Jay

There are two dogs inside of me. One is good, one is evil.
These two dogs are always fighting a constant battle.
Which dog wins? The one I feed the most...
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Old 02-09-2006, 02:03 PM   #88
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I had the spinning problem and ended up drilling some cooling holes in the 4 in 1. It still wants to spin after being in the air for about a minute. I guess thats due to the charge on the battery dissipating. I went flying the other night outside when the air was perfectly still. I was under a streetlight and had a blast, but the dark blue police body was difficult to see if I was further than 10 feet away. I got to thinking.....I went to Radio Shack yesterday and bought 2 red blinking LED's and 1 solid white. I mounted 1 red LED on top of the tail fuse (behind the main rotors) and the other on the bottom. I mounted the solid white LED in the nose of the canopy. Since the LED's are 3 volt, I mounted a very light 3 volt lithium photo battery for power. Went out again last night and had a blast. The flashing red LED's really stand out. Even my wife (who is not interested in R/C) thought it looked great. The LED's were $2.59 a piece and the battery was $4.00. It was worth it to me to be able to see the orientation of the CX at night. Around here, it is usually breezy until the sun goes down.

It's gotta be somewhere in this cornfield.....
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Old 02-13-2006, 11:07 PM   #89
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Default Lower rotor head replacement

I brought my CX down hard on an edge and actually crossed the blades. This is very hard on them.

In the parts replacement process that followed, I had to install a new lower rotor head. I didn't really know how things were going to come apart, so I didn't note exactly where the rotor head sits on the shaft.

There are two small holes in the outer shaft. Does anyone know if the two upper screws in the lower rotor head should be lined up with those holes? Or should the head be sitting lower, almost down to the bearing?
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Old 02-14-2006, 09:55 AM   #90
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Originally Posted by NegativeGeez View Post
I...There are two small holes in the outer shaft. Does anyone know if the two upper screws in the lower rotor head should be lined up with those holes?
Yes, line the upper screws up with the shaft holes.
Eric
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Old 02-14-2006, 02:25 PM   #91
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Default Lower Grip Pins

You got it. Line up the top holes on the grip sleeve with the holes on the outer shaft. BTW I tried moving the linkage to the last second to last holes on the servo arm.
Big mistake... It made the response real quick, which was a merrit. It was able to buck a little more breeze, merrit. If full cyclic was held it would put it into a situation where the blades almost clashed, demerit. Full cyclic would also turn the bird enough to tip it over and make it crash, big demerit. I ended up moving outward one hole on the servo arm. Good balance of stability and manuverability.
I also bought a magnetic dish from Harbour Freight for about 6 bucks. This thing is cool for I work on the heli in the dish. If I happen to drop one of these microscopic screws it ends up in the magnetic dish! Works well for me.
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Old 02-14-2006, 10:09 PM   #92
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Good, thanks.

I hadn't intended to make so much use of the exploded parts view so soon, but I let the thing get up high and the breeze sent it toward a tree that I didn't want to climb very much, so I wound up dropping her too fast. Aerodynamic lift is one thing, gravity's another, especially with momentum on top of it.

It all went together fine, but you're right, those are some tiny screws.
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Old 02-27-2006, 02:51 AM   #93
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Originally Posted by megaglow_Z View Post
if you move the links out 1 space,it realy moves alot.
but you HAVE to shorten the flybar 3/4 inch on each side or you will get a nasty blade clash!

also ,the xrb center shaft and flybar fit perfict and the flybar for the xrb has realy cool paddles.
if your looking for the next level...read this
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=454677

doing that will get you this
LINK
What is an xrb? Where could you get the flybar and paddles?

Too many projects, Too little time
Bret Martin
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Old 03-31-2006, 11:12 PM   #94
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Default Lots of Yaw

I have a Blade CX that had the 4in1 set to max clockwise from the factory (gives right yaw) and I have the sub trim maxed to the right and the copter still yaws left. Need to give about half 3 oclock to keep the tail straight. Called factory and they were no help. Said to check the shaft setscrews. They were fine. Anyone know how to speed up the top rotor more? Or slow the bottom rotor down? Would more lift on the top rotor get the required result? Or trim some of the bottom rotor off? I like the heli, but it's a pain to always have work the yaw stick.
Have a Hirobo and like it alot. Have a Blade CP, but haven't achieved stable hover, yet.
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Old 04-01-2006, 05:43 AM   #95
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I have two cx helis and it sounds like either a bad motor or 4in1 unit. A test is to put the rudder stick to left and then to the right extremes with very low throttle input and see if the speeds are about the same. It helps to put a weight on the skids when testing to prevent lift off. We have seen only one bad motor, but a couple of 4 in 1 units have failed in our local group. One final check would be to reset the rudder control pot in the 4 in 1 to be sure there isn't a bad spot in the pot. I did have some binding in gear mesh on one. Check to make sure there is a little play in the mesh when moving the rotors back and forth slightly. Hope you can find the problem, Horizon has been very good on warranty issues.
All of the locals with CX's have had very good luck with ours and several first timers including one of my sons have been very happy with theirs.
My son is about to take one of mine now. He is a teacher at a local school where we fly in the gym a couple of nights a week so I can't refuse him.
Good luck with your CX. Dan
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Old 04-20-2006, 05:03 AM   #96
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Default How to repair a burned out Blade CX 4-in-1 controller

What is the most expensive part on the Blade CX? If you said the 4in1 controller, you are right. I just priced one at my local hobby shop at $55.00. Well, I have some good news for you guys. At least for those of you who are adventuresome and willing to try ambitious repairs. It would also be good to have decent soldering skills.

The good news? The most common failure in this 4in1 controller (stopping the rotor from turning while throttle is applied, as in a crash where the prop hits the ground). is SUPER CHEAP to repair. How about $2.00 - $4.00. That’s what it costs me to repair mine. Let me explain.

I took my CX outside for the first time last week while it was a perfectly calm day… or so I thought. I got it in the air and was having a blast when I decided to see how high I could get her to go. I got up around 80-100 feet when it began to drift away from me. Full forward and reverse couldn’t overpower the wind up there and soon it had passed over the neighbors tree line where I would not be able to see what I was doing as I was forced to bring it down. I thought the best thing to do would to be time the decent behind the trees in my mind’s eye and give a little extra throttle just as it should be landing to cushion the impact. Upon retrieval of my baby, I noticed a burning component smell coming from under the front canopy.

Upon inspection, I found a component on the 4in1 controller completely burnt and split open. I was forced to purchase a new controller for $55.00 just to be able to see what the bad component is, as my bad one was unrecognizable. I vowed if I have my way, I would never pay this outrageous price again. I opened the case on the new controller and found the part number and manufacturer of the bad component.It turned out to be a dual N-Channel International Rectifier IRF7313 HEXFET Power MOSFET device. A search of International Rectifier’s web site found this part for under $2.00. But they had a minimum order fee of $25.00. I then found this device on <a href="http://www.digikey.com" target="_blank">www.digikey.com</a> for around $2.00 and a minimum order charge of $5.00 (if order is under $25.00). I purchased 3 of them at about $6.00 + $5.00 min order charge + $1.78 USPS shipping for a total of about $13.00. I received it in 2 days after ordering it. Way to go USPS.

Now the hard part… replacing a surface mount component with only a pencil soldering iron. This component has only 8 pins. I opened the controller case and popped the board out. It’s a little tough to get out as there is a double sided sticky piece of foam rubber in there, holding it together. Removing the old part was easy; just apply the hot iron to the pins while lifting the part off the board with the blade of a pocket knife. I cleaned up the pads as best I could when I noticed a couple of things. I discovered that the pc board solder pads were laid out in an interesting way. If you look at you controller pc board, you’ll notice the culprit component located in the lower left corner of the board, right next to the rotor motor connector. The 4 pin pads located closest to the motor connector are actually just 2 extra wide pads. Each pad is soldered to the two left and the two right pins of the MOSFET device respectively. This fact makes soldering such a small component much easier, because if you create a normally unwanted solder bridge between these pairs of pins, it actually improves the solder joint and improves current flow capability. The pads on the opposite side of the MOSFET device are laid out from top left to top right as follows: 1 thin pad, 1 wide pad, 1 thin pad, 1 wide pad. The wide pads are required to handle the high current flow while the thin pads are for the low current control signal to the device. I discovered that the bad part had overheated so badly that one if the solder pads on the pc board had completely burned and broke off. It was the third pad from the left (thin) on my board that was burned off. I mention the dimensions of these pads because since we are working with a very small device, and most likely, your board will be burnt, it might be difficult to align your new device on the board to prepare for soldering. What you need to do is first put a tiny bit of solder on each pad, NOT the pins. Now orient the new device so that the dot on the device (upper right corner of device) is on the opposite side from the motor connector and closest to the edge of the board. Then put a drop of CA glue on the back of the device, and using a pair of tweezers, align the two thin pads with their respective device pins. If you try to align the wide pads/pins, you run the risk of the thin pads/pins not lining up. Once the glue dries, touch your soldering iron to the two dual pads and their respective pairs of pins (motor connector side of device.). Hopefully, you placed enough solder on the pads earlier to allow the solder to melt and create a good joint. I would recommend adding a little extra solder ONLY on these two dual pads/pins to create a solder ‘bridge’ between the pair of pins to improve the quality of the joint and improve current flow. Now the hard part: Heat each pin in the other side respectively to solder each pin to its pad. As long as you have a good hot iron, you should only need to touch each pin for a second to solder the joint. This little MOSFET device is VERY rugged and can handle a lot of heat, but don’t push it. If you find the need to add a little more solder to each pin, be VERY careful NOT to bridge any pins or pads together. If all goes well, you’re done. Connect a battery, the servos and motor wires up and test it out.

While you’re operating so deep inside your beloved CX, might I recommend that you do what I did and cut slots in the case of your 4in1 to improve airflow/cooling. Also, I have added a micro switch inline with one of my battery leads to create a main power switch. I then CA’ed the switch to the top of the 4in1 case where it sticks up out of the hole I cut in the front canopy to improve air flow into the motors and the 4in1. I am always annoyed with having to fiddle with the battery terminals, and I find this a nice touch for rebooting the gyro and for momentary power downs.

I have not done this yet, but I am looking for a couple of surface mount or otherwise miniature ~5amp fuses to solder inline with the motor leads to protect this MOSFET from being fried again. It would be MUCH easier to replace the fuse than to replace the MOSFET again. Besides, this board can only take so much heat before you have nothing left to solder to. When I find the appropriate fuses and complete the next surgery, I’ll fill everybody in on how to do it.

I hope someone finds this info useful.

Matthew McGinnis
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Old 04-20-2006, 05:27 AM   #97
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Really good info on the 4 in 1 repair. It sounds like something I would try if mine ever smokes. I have dealt with Digikey in the past and they are a good source for semiconductors of all kinds. I am retired but I still enjoy doing electronic repair jobs. Thanks for the info. Your experience with the CX outdoors is pretty much the same as the locals who have tried it. If smoke is going straight up you may get a flight in without a disaster. Otherwise I just terrorize my cat and wife in the house. We also get to fly in a local school gym, and that is a great place to fly. My oldest son is a teacher there so I fixed him up with a CX and he is having a great time with it. He has helped our local group get into the gym a couple of times a week to fly helis and fixed wing stuff in the 6 to 12 oz. size. the wild spring and winter weather doesn't keep us from flying now. Dan
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Old 04-20-2006, 04:28 PM   #98
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It’s a curious thing, the physics of a dual prop heli. Since the upper prop is at a fixed pitch, you always get more lift when you add throttle, regardless of weather or not you add cyclic or not. Add this to the fact that the prop creates more lift during forward motion, and you find that this heli will begin to climb really fast when it catches a breeze up there around 100 feet and you try to fly forward/backward to overcome the breeze. The problem is that to go forward or reverse, you must add throttle to overcome the wind, but this added throttle also causes more lift. It becomes very hard to get the darned thing back down on the ground anywhere remotely close to you, because once it gets high enough, glitches start appearing. So the heli must be low enough to receive your signals. What a vicious circle. I agree with you… DON’T take the CX outside unless you intent to keep it low. But that’s like being in a dragster and being able to control yourself to NOT go fast.
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Old 04-26-2006, 03:56 AM   #99
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I don't know if I'm alone in this, but here's a question. Why don't they sell a clear body for the CX? I would love to paint my own body for this thing. Maybe there's one out there and I haven't found it.
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Old 05-03-2006, 11:39 PM   #100
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Smile blade cx

I broke the lower plastic shaft, no problem, I went out and bought a new one. But as I was taking it apart I never noticed the position. There is a flat place on the shaft and a hole in it, does some thing need to be lined up? I slipped on the new plastic lower shaft, and hooked up the wing's ect, now it does not fly the way it used to. Swash plate is even with the arms, but I am still wondering about the flat spot and hole?
Any help would be nice!
Thank's Bry
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