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Old 06-30-2008, 03:14 AM   #151
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To make outie change-outs easyer,,,Smile a lot,, bub,steve


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Old 06-30-2008, 01:41 PM   #152
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When trying to compare motors, one must have a good reference chart.

Here is one: http://www.innov8tivedesigns.com/Sco...ison%20Web.htm

Frank

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Old 07-01-2008, 01:08 AM   #153
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Murocflyer:: what a good chart, That really make compare'in um EASY, bubsteve

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Old 07-01-2008, 01:21 AM   #154
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Thanks Steve. Just trying to help where/when I can.

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Old 07-02-2008, 12:04 PM   #155
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The law of aerodynamics are important.

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Old 07-07-2008, 11:19 AM   #156
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Default Fiberglassing

1. You take two pieces of plastic, or better yet, a gallon size ziploc bag (cut the zipper off), draw what you want to glass on the top plastic with a sharpie marker (if you have plans just lay the pastic over the plans and draw the shape).

2. Place your oversized glass inside the plastic.

3. Pour the resin on the glass a little all around. You'd be surprised how little is needed.

4. Lay the top layer of plastic down and spread the resin aound (a CC or squeegee works great) the entire shape where you have drawn. Make sure the cloth is well saturated (it will almost be invisible) and you don't have any trapped air bubbles. You'll get the feel on how much resin to leave on the glass with some experience. You don't want too much -resin rich (brittle) or too little -starved (not strong enough), but just right.

5. Then cut to shape, peel off top layer of plastic, then apply glass & resin to whatever. Since the plastic is still on the bottom side (now top) you can use your squugee to work out any wrinkles. At this point you can let it dry, or if you're careful you can pull off the plastic. The plastic will come off easily when the resin cures so it's the preferred method.


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Old 07-07-2008, 11:40 AM   #157
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Brilliant tip, no more stuck together fingers! Thanks!
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Old 07-07-2008, 02:06 PM   #158
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Sounds like a good tip. I'd like to add though to be sure and not mix the resin too hot or it might start to set up before your ready.

I've started using the glass topped dining table to do all my CA & epoxy gluing on. Easy to clean up with a single edged razor blade or to release the part I just glued to the table. The other day I laid down a 2" wide strip of packing tape and did my gluing on it. I was building ailerons for a 3D balsa build of a old CL design of the Magician .15. As usual I over glued and when I couldn't just easily twist the part to remove it I lifted the tape and the part popped of very easily. I tried this several times and the parts came loose very easy each time by just lifting the tape thus reducing clean up of the glass table top. BTW, if your fumble fingered I wouldn't suggest building over a glass table top especially if it's the regular dining table. My wife has repeatedly warned me what's going to happen if I drop something and break it .

If your plane happens to go down far away from you take a few seconds to look for landmarks to help aid you in your search. I just spent several days looking for a plane that went down in a over grown pasture. It was it's 2nd flight and I just couldn't bare to watch it go in so I looked away just before it hit. Then I walked away before I looked back to get my bearings which resulted in a very long frustrating search and extra damage to my plane from the live stock in the pasture stepping on it repeatedly.
I knew better but :o & now I'm at myself.

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Old 07-24-2008, 11:18 PM   #159
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Default How to remove CA from pinned hinges

I got too much Thin CA into the hole I was using to glue in my Du-Bro nylon pinned hinges today. Usually this results in my having to cut out the glued frozen hinge to install another. For some reason I've been averaging at least 1 hinge per plane having to be replaced here lately. Since the wife likes to use "Super Glue" on everything I asked her if she had any Super Glue Remover. She said no but to try her Non-Acetone Fingernail Polish Remover. It Works!!!!!!
I used a drop or so and started trying to work it back and forth easily and after another drop and less than a minute I had freed up the hinge. I worked it for a couple more minutes and then used a drop of thin reel oil. It's been over an hour now and it's still loose

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Old 07-25-2008, 12:38 AM   #160
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Originally Posted by Dereck View Post
the most useful tools in my shop are sanding blocks - the alloy ones from Tower Hobbies have been the best I've found so far - in lengths from 6" to a monster 36" that comes out occasionally, but is still worth its place in the toolbox. Next come metal straight edges - everything from a 12" rule that's so old its markings have all but vanished, but its still handy for making short cuts in sheet, to a 48" heavy duty steel job that is the best tool I've used for cutting strip wood off balsa sheets.

A good supply of #11 knife blades is essential - I have a sharpening stone for touch-ups, but they don't last long even so. Naturally, it's possible to buy bulk packs of "Numba Ereven" blades for less than a dozen 'real' X-Acto" blades, but you can soon get fed up of blunt knife blades.

Cutting strips - as I mostly build RC these days and the bulk of my stripwood is spruce rather than balsa, my preference is a 'razor saw' - X-Acto do the best again, for a change . Use the one with the shallowest blade and practice making cuts with the blade vertical. I've tried cutting jigs various over the years, can usually do it better 'by eye' and don't have to go looking for the jug (tidying up is not really in my genes )

Anything involving joining sheet or stripping sticks off a sheet - the first cut is always to straighten up one edge of the balsa sheet. They seldom are straight. If it's a real tiny discrepancy, that long sanding block can sometimes be a better bet.

Hope that helps

THis needs to be a sticky!

Regards

Dereck
On a tool shadowing project at work, I found that it was faster and easier to just sharpen the xacto blades by stropping them on a piece of leather with some jewelers rouge than it was to keep replacing them.

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Old 07-25-2008, 05:57 PM   #161
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Hey now,
I cured this problem by putting some ppetroleum jelly on the hinge where the pin is. Glue won't stick there now. Much easier than fixing it afterwards.
RobII


Originally Posted by Slowjohn View Post
I got too much Thin CA into the hole I was using to glue in my Du-Bro nylon pinned hinges today. Usually this results in my having to cut out the glued frozen hinge to install another. For some reason I've been averaging at least 1 hinge per plane having to be replaced here lately. Since the wife likes to use "Super Glue" on everything I asked her if she had any Super Glue Remover. She said no but to try her Non-Acetone Fingernail Polish Remover. It Works!!!!!!
I used a drop or so and started trying to work it back and forth easily and after another drop and less than a minute I had freed up the hinge. I worked it for a couple more minutes and then used a drop of thin reel oil. It's been over an hour now and it's still loose

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Old 07-27-2008, 04:25 PM   #162
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Here's one I learned last night.
If your build with hot glue and need to reposition a part slightly a hair dryer will soften the glue a bit while not totally releasing it.
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Old 07-27-2008, 04:31 PM   #163
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Excellent Tip!

Do life with optimism

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Old 08-03-2008, 04:13 PM   #164
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Wow, great tips fellas! Keep 'em coming.

And I agree, sticky this thread!

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Old 08-03-2008, 04:38 PM   #165
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Default Foam blocks

As many of you know, our most used tool is the hobby knife with the #11 XACTO blade in it. I have had several close calls with dropping the knife and sticking various parts of my anatomy with it. I have found a simple and cheap (Free) method to prevent this from happening. I use the foam blocks used to pack and insulate items usually found in cardboard boxes. These blocks are similar to EPP foam and have a semi-hard consistency. I pin one to my workbench and simply stick the knife (and other sharp instruments) into the foam when not in use. It is always ready and doesn't fall off once it's in the foam. After it becomes chewed up and throughly used, I simply turn it over and use the other side. One of these blocks lasts a long time. Discard when used up. Check in the cardboard crusher of your local food store or cardboard dumpster (yeah I know.... it's dumpster diving) behind some of the local strip stores for them. Marty

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Old 08-04-2008, 03:57 AM   #166
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Originally Posted by fr4nk1yn View Post
Here's one I learned last night.
If your build with hot glue and need to reposition a part slightly a hair dryer will soften the glue a bit while not totally releasing it.
on that note...

a ply motor mount broke loose from one of my planes (I know, a real surprise).

It was only held on by hotglue (yeah, another surprise...).

I was able to melt the hotglue with a torch, soft enough to reattach it to the plane. It is still flying. (Ok, that one might come as an actual surprise.)

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Old 08-09-2008, 07:05 PM   #167
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Originally Posted by scalercflyer View Post
As many of you know, our most used tool is the hobby knife with the #11 XACTO blade in it. I have had several close calls with dropping the knife and sticking various parts of my anatomy with it. I have found a simple and cheap (Free) method to prevent this from happening. I use the foam blocks used to pack and insulate items usually found in cardboard boxes. These blocks are similar to EPP foam and have a semi-hard consistency. I pin one to my workbench and simply stick the knife (and other sharp instruments) into the foam when not in use. It is always ready and doesn't fall off once it's in the foam. After it becomes chewed up and throughly used, I simply turn it over and use the other side. One of these blocks lasts a long time. Discard when used up. Check in the cardboard crusher of your local food store or cardboard dumpster (yeah I know.... it's dumpster diving) behind some of the local strip stores for them. Marty
Also to prevent the xacto knife from rolling off the bench I wrap a little electrical tape flag on the opposite end of the blade.

Mike K


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Old 08-09-2008, 09:02 PM   #168
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Electrical tape on the Xacto, Nice!

Here's one that may or may not be a tip, i.e. I didn't try it intentinally.
I was laminating a wing and missed a couple spots on the LE trying to keep glue from squeezing out and making me sand through it, Ironic.
I ran a thin bead of CA across the LE and clamped it back down. That stuff turned the LE into a rock!
Running some thin CA across the LE after finishing might toughen it up quite a bit.

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Old 08-14-2008, 06:31 PM   #169
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Things I've learned :

Epoxy tricks, Mix a few drops of Testors paint with the epoxy and you can match just about any color of covering. Good for invisable repairs, fillets arond tail feathers and wing joints etc. Mix micro ballons in and a small layer will attach the canopy making a pretty and strong bonding fillet to the fuse.
Wetting your finger with alcohol allows you to spread and work epoxy while it cures without it balling up and making a mess.
Epoxy can be thined with either rubbing alcohol or denatured alcohol and then "painted" on a surface. This works good when laminating wood or glass, you can get a much thinner layer of resin to keep weight down. It does increase the drying time but does not weaken the bond as far as I can tell. My next attempt is going to be trying to thin the epoxy enough to be able to spray it through an air brush. Wish me luck. For some reason the above does not work as well with quick set epoxy. Seems to make quick set rubbery.
When I use either CA hinges or the nylon flat hinges I always "pin" them with round tooth picks. After the bonding glue dries drill a 1/6" hole in both the LE and TE of the surfaces perpendicular to the flat hinge and then push the tooth pick into the hole. Cut one end of the "pin" with cutting pliers then pull the other end out a little further. Cut that end off and shove the pin back in till flush with the surface and put a drop of CA on each side of the pin. I have yet to see a hinge pull out when this process is used. And that's in 20+ years of R/C flying.
On wood air planes, where a wire linkage goes in the wood for Aileron touque rods or tail wheel tiller arms etc., "peck" the outer wood surface with a straight pin or Xacto knife and flow CA glue around it. The peck holes allow the glue to penetrate the wood better and prevents the rod from wearing the hole out and breaking loose.
Where wire is used in the same way on foam, drill an oversized hole and insert a piece of wood dowl to act as a bushing to prevent the wire from tearing through the foam.
It was mentioned earlier when painting spray clear over the tape line to prevent the color from bleeding under the tape. If you're painting on tender surfaces you can reduce how strong the tape sticks buy rubbing the tape on your pants leg or the carpet a few times before applying to the surface. Then spray the clear to seal the edge. This will help prevent pulling the first color paint up when removing the tape.
Tooth paste (especially the kind with baking soda) makes a good rubbing compond and polish for painted surfaces, Monocote and canopies. Also works good to brighten up dull headlamp lenses on your car.
And for the question about tight joints, remember always cut either on the inside or outside of your mark. Which ever side you cut is determined by which side you measured with. Blunt joints can be reinforced by drilling and pinning simular to the process I use on hinges.

That's all I can think of for now.

Charlie
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Old 08-15-2008, 01:19 AM   #170
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Thanks proffcharlie, I'll be putting some of those to use very soon.

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Old 08-15-2008, 08:35 AM   #171
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Default Great tips

Great tips Charlie! As far as epoxy, I just use a heat gun on it. The stuff liquefies to the consistency of water. Doesn't affect strength either. I used this trick when I fuel proofed the engine area on my slimers. Paint the epoxy on and the brush stokes disappear as it cools. Many possibilities using this technique. Martin

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Old 08-15-2008, 05:03 PM   #172
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Thanks my bub's, steve

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Old 08-19-2008, 07:21 AM   #173
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For the guys building with wood, take the plans to Kinko's/Fedx and use their plans copier to make a second set of plans. Cut the reproduced plans into component sections and then place the section on a piece of wood with the print side down. Using a clothes iron or a monocote iron you can transfer the print onto the wood. After the paper cools peel it off and you have a cutting guide to make construction templates. This process can usually be repeated 2 or 3 times before the ink is too thin to leave a mark on the wood. This process will also work to transfer circuit traces on copper laminate board (for all you guys that like to etch your own circuit boards).

Charlie
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Old 08-19-2008, 01:09 PM   #174
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That'd be okay if there was a location closer than a 3 hour round trip but then I guess that's the price we pay for those of us who chose to live in small remote towns.
I did try calling the closest location once to see if I could email them the link to some plans I wanted off the internet. After they received them they emailed me back saying that they wouldn't/couldn't print them out and send them to me due to some copyright violation type of thing, even though it clearly stated the plans were for individuals personal use but not to be sold. I called them back but they wouldn't budge. Does anyone have a solution for that problem? Some plans just don't lend themselves to being "tile printed" IMO.

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Old 08-19-2008, 01:20 PM   #175
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check your local blueprinting place.

it's often cheaper too

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