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Old 02-24-2008, 11:13 PM   #26
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Can you copy to a Word .doc then print?

Frank

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Old 02-25-2008, 12:55 AM   #27
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ED: Your sit makes it easy to do quick refresher info Thanks.
Thought you would like to know your links to Maxxproducts don't work.
Ernie

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Old 02-25-2008, 01:34 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by FlyWheel View Post
Ed, Is ther a way to isolate individual posts/replies? I have printed up the first part, and would like to add the succesive articles (like the one above) alone to what I have as they come out.
If you click on the post number, that individual post will be displayed. You can print them out one at a time.

Or you can copy and paste them into a word processor.

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Old 02-25-2008, 01:36 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by Slowdoc View Post
ED: Your sit makes it easy to do quick refresher info Thanks.
Thought you would like to know your links to Maxxproducts don't work.
Ernie
Which article? Which post?

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Old 02-25-2008, 01:45 AM   #30
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Well done as always!

Current - Ventura, HZ SuperCub-Freedom-Swift-AB3, PZ Typhoon, T-28 Trojan, Radian, AeroAce Biplane
Maiden - F-27C Stryker
10 years Ago - ElectroSoar 2M Glider, 2M Foam Glider, Mirage 550
Retired - Sky Fly, Red Hawk, Extreme, Challenger
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Old 02-25-2008, 08:27 AM   #31
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Outstanding job Ed!

Thanks!

Larry
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Old 02-28-2008, 06:37 AM   #32
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I fantastic job so far. I would love to see more on gearing a motor, especially an outrunner. I have seen a couple of them, but don't know where to get them or how to set them up. I am interested in powered sailplanes with geared system and most of the motors are inrunners, but there are not that many to be found. I know it can be done, just don't have any location for getting one, or how to set them up. Any help would be great. Thanks for all the information. I haven't read all the links yet, so maybe there is some information there. Anyway, thanks for the great article.
Ed
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Old 02-28-2008, 01:31 PM   #33
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Mred,

Thanks for the ideas. I don't think I am going to do a lot of How to Do articles in this e-book. This is about understanding the technology and the process.

Perhaps someone else will build an e-book of How To articles.

Articles on receivers is next.

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Old 02-28-2008, 02:00 PM   #34
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WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT RECEIVERS
by Ed Anderson
aeajr on the forums
Revised February 2008

You control the plane by moving controls on the radio, but it is the
receiver that "hears" the radio and directs those commands to the proper
servos to move them according to your wishes. So, what do you need to know
about receivers when preparing and flying your plane?

By convention all radio systems use a transmitter and a receiver. However in common
use, in the RC airplane hobby we typically refer to the thansmitter as the radio. While this
is technially incorrect, everyone knows what we mean, so I will speak of the radio and the
receiver. For those of you who are radio systems wizards, I hope you will forgive me
for this convenience.


FREQUENCY AND CHANNEL

Receivers are specific to a given frequency. For example, in North America,
NA, our planes can be flown on 27 MHz, 72 MHz, and now 2.4 GHz. There
are others too. Your receiver has to match the frequency of your radio
in order to be able to hear it. In NA 72 MHz is considered the RC aircraft
hobby channel it is split into 50 sub frequencies, or channels so that we
can have more than one person flying a plane at any given time. In NA, 27
MHz is typically only seen in low end RTF planes and is shared with low end
cars and boats and is limited to 6 channels.

In the last few years, 2.4 GHz has come on the scene and is growing fast. The
main attraction to 2.4 GHz is there is no need for frequency control, which we will
discuss later. Also, this system operates well above the frequency level of most of
the "noise" that is generated by other components in the airplane so the 2.4 GHz
systems are less likely to pick this up as interference. However because of the
very short wavelength they re more prone to having the signal blocked. More on
this later.

With non 2.4 GHz systems your receiver needs a crystal that matches the
channel of your radio. In RTF packages, this is already done, so you don't
need to worry about it. However if you are buying your own receivers, you
must match them to the frequency and channel of your radio when you buy
them. Your supplier can help you with the details. One suggestion is that
you not mix crystal brands. They may work but this introduces a risk that
you are better off avoiding. If you get a Hitec receiver, get a Hitec
crystal.


AM and FM and FM SHIFT

Just like your car radio, RC radios can use AM or FM to transmit their
instructions to the plane. AM is an older technology but it is still in
use, primarily in low end 2 and 3 channel radios. However most new radios
are FM. Both work!

In North America, 72 MHz systems are grouped by those using positive shift and
those that use negative shift. Typically we speak of JR and Airtronics as
positive shift. Hitec and Futaba are negative shift. In some cases these
brands can be made to change shift through a function called shift select or
reverse shift that can be set at the radio.

Shift refers to how the radio codes instructions for the receiver. One is
not better than the other, they are just different. This is only important
when you are buying a new receiver as you need to be sure that your FM
receiver and your FM radio are using the same shift.

Crystals are not specific to shift, but they may be specific to AM vs. FM.
Be sure you get the right type of crystal for your receiver.


FM/PPM and FM/PCM

PPM and PCM further define how the radio codes commands to the receiver. We
normally speak of PPM and PCM in the context of FM radio/receiver
combinations. If you are buying an AM receiver/radio, or a 2.4 GHz system you don't
need to take this into consideration.

FM receivers can be either PPM or PCM. When people say FM, they typically
mean FM/PPM. If they say PCM, they mean FM/PCM.

As long as the shift is right, you can mix brands of FM/PPM radios and
FM/PPM receivers. On the other hand, FM/PCM receivers are highly brand
specific. If you have a Futaba radio capable of PCM transmission and you
wish to use a PCM receiver, you must have a Futaba PCM receiver that is
compatible with that model radio. No mixing brands in PCM.

As far as I know, all FM radios can transmit in FM/PPM. Some can transmit
in FM/PCM also. I don't know of any that are FM/PCM only, but there may be
one out there. If PCM is listed, it is normally an extra feature, not a
requirement you use PCM.

Some will say that PCM is better and more reliable. I can neither confirm
or dispute this point as I have not done testing. I use both and have found both reliable.
I will point you to a couple of articles that discusses PCM, how it works and their opinion
of the advantages.

Futaba FAQ on Advantages of FM/PCM over FM/PPM
http://www.futabarc.com/faq/product-faq.html#q102

Article on PCM vs. PPM
http://www.aerodesign.de/peter/2000/PCM/PCM_PPM_eng.html#Anker143602

PCM receivers tend to be more expensive, larger and heavier. From what I
gather FM/PPM is what the overwhelming majority of flyers use. FM/PCM seems
to be most popular in the high performance world, giant scale and
competition planes. Choose whichever you like as either will fly your
plane.

RANGE

For practical purposes, range is determined by the receiver, not the radio.
It is a function of sensitivity of the receiver and its ability to pick out
the radio signal and filter out noise. Many brands state the rated range of
their receivers and some do not. I suggest you stick with brands that state
their rated range or at lest advise of their intented purpose. Otherwise you
could end up flying beyond the range of your receiver.

How much range is enough? That depends on the application. You can
NEVER have too much range, but you can have too little. If the plane
gets out of range it will crash or fly away. More range is always better.

Here are my suggestions for minimums:

Indoors

Indoor planes are usually very weight sensitive, every gram counts.
To get extremely light weigh, sometimes range has to be sacrificed but that
is OK indoors as long as you know what it is. I suggest 200' minimum and
more is better but you may be fine with less. Many indoor flying spaces are
less than 100 feet along any span and you are not going to accidentally fly
past the walls.


Outdoor - Planes

Slowflyers, micro helis and small electric planes under 36" wing spans can
often get by with ultra light receivers with ranges of as little as 500
feet. This is adequate if you have a small model or fly in a small field of
under 500 feet in span. Many of these small models can be hard to see at
ranges of more than 300 feet, approximately the length of a football field.
I prefer more range, but many people do fine with 500 foot receivers. The
GWS pico 4 channel is a good example of this kind of receiver.

Today there are plenty of micro receivers with 1000' or greater rated range
that are under 1/3 ounce, about 9 grams. I have a large field that is 1600
feet long so it is easy for me to get a plane out beyond 500 feet without
realizing it. While it can become hard to see them at that range, I don't
want to lose it because I ran out of receiver range.

If you can tolerate up to 1/2 ounce, about 14 grams, for your receiver, then
there is no reason to use a receiver with a 500 foot range limit, except
price. The Spektrum DX6 receivers are good examples. Tiny in size they are
a safe working range of 1500 to 2000 feet. The Hitec Micro 05S at .3 oz,
about 8 grams, has a range of 1 mile. Berg, FMA Direct and others make tiny
receivers with over 1500' range ratings. Why limit yourself with short
range receivers and take a chance of losing you model?

For 2M gliders, sailplanes, fast electrics or glow planes with wing spans of 2
meters, about 80 inches or less, I recommend a minimum of 2600 feet, 1/2
mile or 1 KM depending on how your receiver specs are given. More is ALWAYS
better.

Planes with greater than 2 Meters or 80 inches, and especially thermal
duration sailplanes, I recommend you use a receiver with a 1 mile, 1.5 KM or
5000 foot + rating. It is quite easy to get these planes out 3/4 of a mile,
especially the larger sailplanes, and you don't want to have signal problems
with a plane this large that is out that far. This will give you good
signal strength for the likely distance you will fly the plane which is
probably no more than 75% of that range.

If your receiver is rated for "line of sight" that means that as long as you
can see the model, you should be able to control it. These receivers will
be your longest range receivers.


SIGNAL PROCESSING - Single and Dual Conversion, DSP and more

In addition to range, 72 MHz FM receivers will usually specify if they are single
conversion, dual conversion, or that they use some other method of signal
processing. I will leave it to the engineers to go into depth here.
However, as a general rule, dual conversion is better than single but there
are excellent single conversion receivers that have digital signal
processing and other ways of making sure they pick up the right signal.

I have no hesitation to use single conversion receivers with 2600 foot, (
1KM or .6 mile) rated ranges in my models that will be flown less than 1500
feet out. Most of my electric planes can't be easily flown further than
that and since I am operating at less than 70% the raged range I feel comfortable
that good quality single conversion receivers should be fine. This includes
my 2M sailplanes.

For my larger sailplanes I use only dual conversion receivers. Here I am flying
planes, that may be over 1/2 mile out and 1000 feet or more in altitude. I need
every bit of signal processing I can get to insure I get clean control. I can't afford
even a single glitch. If my plane is on 72 MHz I want a dual conversion system.

You make decisions based on your type of flying. This is what I do.

Some receiver brands offer single conversion, dual conversion and perhaps
other types of receivers. Be sure you get the right kind of crystal based
on the receiver. For example, Hitec dual conversion receivers and single
conversion receivers take different types of crystals. I don't know what
makes them different but you can not interchange them. They won't work.


CHANNELS

We spoke of channels above in terms of frequency. We also use the word
channels to describe how many servos/devices you can control. So a 4
channel radio can control up to 4 devices. It is OK to have
more channels in the receiver than your radio has as some slots are used for
things other than channel control. For example, if we have a 4 channel
radio and are flying a 4 channel plane your slots might be used like this:

1 per control channel = 4
1 receiver battery
1 for plane locator or battery monitor

In this case you might want a 6 channel receiver to give you 6 slots. Or you
can use one or more Y cables to share slots. However I prefer to have a
receiver with extra slots rather than use Y cables. I feel it will give me
greater reliability. Rather than putting money into Y cables I would rather
put the money into the receiver.

If you have a 3 channel electric plane, you need a minimum of a 3
channel receiver. You don't typically need a separate slot for a receiver
battery as your electronic speed control normally provides the receiver with
battery power from your motor battery. You can use a 3, 4, 5, X channel
receiver, but it must have at least 3 channels.

You can also use a 2 or 3 channel receiver with a 4 or more channel radio,
but you will only have 2 or 3 channels of control available. An example
might be to use a 3 channel receiver for your R/E/T plane but use a 4
channel radio to fly it. That works!


COMPUTER RADIO AND CHANNEL MIXES
True for all radios regardless of frequency

If you are splitting functions using mixes in a computer radio your
receiver may need more channels. For example, if you have a computer
radio, you might be able to use two servos for your ailerons and have each
work from its own channel. Each aileron will be controlled its own channel.
Some radios can put the second aileron on any channel and some require they
be on specific channels. Consult your manual for guidance here.

Here is an example where we use more than one slot for a function because we
have individual servos on each surface. This is the layout of one of my
gliders and is controlled from my Futaba 9C computer radio. I use an 8
channel receiver and 7 servos.

Ailerons - channels 1 & 7
Flaps - channels 5 & 6
Elevator - channel 2
Rudder - channel 4
Tow hook release Channel 8
Battery - uses channel 3 slot
Plane Locator - Shares channel 8 slot with the tow hood release servo
via a Y cable


POWER TO THE RECEIVER

Note that most receivers operate at 4.8 to 6 Volts. This is usually
supplied by a 4-5 cell NiCD or NiMh receiver pack. In planes using glow or
gas power, or in gliders, this is a battery pack that plugs into the
receiver or into a switch that goes into the receiver. There are some new
receivers that can work on a two cell lithium pack of 7.4V, but these are
rare. There are some tiny receivers, made for indoor flight that can
operate one lipo cell at 3.7 V, but these are also rare. Always read your
manual, but in general, never directly plug a battery pack of more than 5
cells, or 6 volts into your receiver or you will release the "magic smoke" and
the receiver will not work. You could fry the servos too, so RTFM, read the
friendly manual.

If this plane has an electric motor, the receiver will most likely get its
power from the ESC, electronic speed control. Note that even though your
flight battery might be 7.2V or higher, the ESC has a circuit that steps
this down to 5 volts to power the receiver. This circuit, called the BEC,
battery eliminator circuit, eliminates the need for a separate receiver battery.

If you look at the manual for your ESC, it probably indicates that, if you
use more than a certain voltage for your motor pack, you will need to go to
a separate receiver battery. This is because the BEC can only step the
voltage down so far. Or it may say the BEC can handle up to 4 servos on the
receiver up to a 9.6V motor battery, for example, but you are restricted to
3 servos if you go above that. After that it has to be bypassed, you need
a separate receiver pack.

Thre is an article on the BEC in this e-book. Be sure to read it.


Summary

The receiver is the most critical of all the electronics you will put in
your plane. The most expensive radio with the wildest features is just a
paperweight without a good receiver to carry out its instructions. While
the terms can be confusing at first, you should now be prepared to choose
a receiver with confidence. Remember to always consult your radio manual
for any specific needs of your radio system.

A key point is that it is the receiver and not the radio that really
dictates the range you can expect. I encourage you to be very aware of the
range rating of your receivers so you don't lose a plane by exceeding your
safe range.

Your receiver has to have enough channels to accept commands from your radio
and to accommodate the number of servos/devices you have in the plane.
However the number of channels in the receiver does not have to match the
number in your radio.

Your receiver needs to match your radio in the areas of shift, frequency and
channel as well as FM/PPM or FM/PCM features. For FM/PPM you can mix and
match receiver brands, but with FM/PCM you can't!


A new generation of radio systems are now coming into wide use. These are based
on 2.4 GHz and do away with many of the issues and points of consideration
discussed above. Here are a few links that may be of interest to allow you to
get to know this technology. I have been encouraging all new pilots to go this
way. 2.4 GHz is here, it is now, and it appears to be the wave of the future.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=715589&goto=newpost

2.4 GHz - A Broad Market Review
http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22170

Good general article on radios by the Torrey Pines Gulls Web Site.
http://www.torreypinesgulls.org/Radios.htm

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Old 02-29-2008, 02:14 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by AEAJR View Post
If you click on the post number, that individual post will be displayed. You can print them out one at a time.

Or you can copy and paste them into a word processor.

Ed
Originally Posted by Murocflyer View Post
Can you copy to a Word .doc then print?

Frank
I can bring up an individual post, but there's no option for the printable version. So I have to do both. I go to the printible version of the whole thread, copy/paste the post I want into Word, then print that.

"Give a man a plane and he'll fly for a day.
Teach a man to build a plane and he'll fly for a lifetime"
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Old 02-29-2008, 06:45 PM   #36
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Anyone else have content they would like to add?

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Old 03-02-2008, 11:13 PM   #37
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THE AMA PARK PILOT PROGRAM
http://www.modelaircraft.org/parkflyer.aspx

Since this e-book is focused on electric flight, I thought it would be appropriate to put something in about the AMA membership program developed specifically with electric pilots in mind. At half the price of regular AMA membership, it seems to offer a nice package for pilots who are not interested in larger planes, glow planes, gas planes or jets.. If you are primarily focused on small electrics, electric helies or small gliders, this is something you should consider.

In addition, the AMA is looking to help form Park Pilot clubs and help those clubs establish Park Pilot fields. These clubs would be focused on flying park flyers and would not be open to gas, glow, jets or large planes. As a result they can be located in smaller fields and potentially in places where regular AMA fields have been rejected or cast out.

Certianly sounds interesting.

Park Flyer Definition:

Park Flyer models will weigh two pounds or less and be incapable of reaching speeds greater than 60 mph. They must be electric or rubber powered, or of any similar quiet means of propulsion, including gliders. Models should be remotely controlled or flown with a control line, remain within the pilot’s line of sight at all times, and always be flown safely by the operator.


Flying Site Development:
http://www.modelaircraft.org/UserFil...iteBooklet.pdf

The AMA is encouraging the development of new, officially recognized AMA Park Pilot sites in metro areas throughout the US. As an aid in reaching this goal, we’ve developed a special “How to Start a Park Flying Site” turnkey package so members who are trying to secure a field won’t have to start from scratch when they approach landowners or officials responsible for regulation of public facilities. The package includes a DVD to show landowners and park officials what park flying is all about––and how different it is from the engine-powered, radio-control flying with which they may already be familiar. There are tips on how to approach officials and landowners, plus instructions on how to set up a field. It even includes a guide for how to quickly and efficiently organize a club, its bylaws, and field rules. And best of all, members will be able to inform landowners and officials that they’d be covered by AMA site liability coverage in the amount of $2.5 million, which should serve as a great incentive. The goal is to make it easier for official AMA recognized flying sites to be developed quickly and in great numbers.

Rebates

http://www.modelaircraft.org/parkflyer/shops.aspx
Offset the cost of your new Park Pilot Membership! When you join you will receive rebate coupons in your membership package worth upto $50.00 Our partners include: Hobbico, Ready to Fly Fun, Hobby-Lobby, RC Micro World, and Rotory Modeler. Check out their web sites to see all the products they offer.

Click to join
https://www.modelaircraft.org/joinrenew.aspx

If you have been turned off by traditional AMA clubs, perhaps the best thing to do is to form your own club around the kind of flying that interests you, parkflyers.

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Old 03-11-2008, 04:31 AM   #38
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Ed;

Reading this suggests to me that a problem I am currently experiencing with my HZ Super Cub servos "rocking" or glithcing(?) after Tx input might be caused by this from your ESC lesson:

"Note also that, since the ESC is switching power on and off it is also producing electromagnetic pulses, or radio waves. The electronics in the ESC will typically be designed to reduce or shield some of this radio wave noise, but it can’t block it all. This is why we recommend keeping the ESC and the receiver as far apart as possible as this ESC noise can interfere with the receiver. If you are getting “glitching” or odd pulses to your servos, these may be coming from ESC noise bothering the receiver. Try moving things around."

It seems possible to me and Hobby Zone is sending a new reciever unit to solve this problem.

Your lessons are excellent and this novice is learning much...Thanks!
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Old 03-11-2008, 04:47 AM   #39
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Let us know how it works out.

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Old 03-11-2008, 03:31 PM   #40
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What Goes on Which Stick?
by Ed Anderson
aeajr on the forums


If you are flying an RTF electric plane, your radio and servos are already set-up for you. However if you are setting up an ARF or finishing a kit, you will be installing your own radio equipment. So, which stuff goes on which stick, and why?

We usually talk about what surface is controlled by what stick. However,
that is not really the right way to look at it.

First, the control axis:

Pitch - nose up/nose down - usually controlled by the elevator or elevator function of elevons

Roll - rotation of the wings around the fuselage - controlled by ailerons or the aileron function of elevons.

If the plane does not have ailerons or elevons, then roll can be controlled by the rudder or the rudder function of a V tail rudervators, depending on the design of the plane. On rudder only planes the rudder works with dihedral in the wings, the upward slant of the wings, to roll the plane.

Yaw - movement of the nose left or right - controlled by rudder or the rudder function if V tail ruddervators.

Speed - throttle control

If you are in a different part of the world, you may be flying mode 1, 3 or 4. I live in North America where Mode 2 is the standard, so the rest of this post will be referencing mode 2 control positions.

Note that I mention Mode 2, which is marked with the * below.

Left stick ...............Right Stick ..................Mode

Pitch and Yaw .......Speed and Roll ..............1

Speed and Yaw*......Pitch and Roll*..............2*

Pitch and Roll ..........Speed and Yaw ...........3

Speed and Roll ........Pitch and Yaw .............4

For a power plane, landing gear, flaps and other such functions are assigned
to switches, buttons, dials, sliders or levers, but are not defined as part of the mode definitions.

For a two stick radio, used in mode two format, the standard format in North
America, pitch and roll are on the right stick with roll ALWAYS being your
primary turning control. Yaw and speed control are on the left stick.

Based on mode 2 it is very easy to move from a dual stick to a single stick radio as the right, or the only stick, always have has your primary fight controls if pitch and roll.

Primary Speed control

Since this is written for electric flyers, we will assume you have an electric motor. On a two stick radio, the speed control is on the left stick and is controlled by the motion that goes toward you to turn the motor off and away from you to give full throttle. For a single stick radio the throttle control is usually on the left side and will be a slide, switch or lever.

Where does the rudder go?

Confusion often exists around where to put the rudder. Depending on the design of your plane, the rudder can play different roles so its placement can change. On a three channel electric plane without ailerons, the rudder is your primary turning surface. It provides both roll and yaw control so it goes on the right stick for roll control, as the primary turning surface. This stick also has pitch control provided by the elevator. The rudder will work with a feature of the wings, called dihedral or polyhedral, to roll or bank the plane when you want to turn.

What if there are ailerons, or elevons?

Primary flight controls of pitch and roll are always on the right stick, or the only stick. If this is a 3 channel plane with throttle, aileron and elevator controls only, like a flying wing that has elevon controls (combined elevator aileron in one surface), now where do I put things? Think of function rather than surface and you will know immediately. Which surface provides roll control? In this case it is the ailerons, so they go on the right stick with the elevator which provides pitch control.

If this is a 4 channel plane that has ailerons and a rudder, the ailerons are your primary roll control, so they go on the right stick. The rudder moves to the left hand stick to provide yaw control, which helps the ailerons turn the plane smoothly.

If you are flying off a runway, the rudder can be very valuable as it helps control your path down the runway during take-off and landing. If you have a steerable ground wheel it is usually attached to the rudder or the rudder channel. The rudder, in this configuration, also plays a valuable part during landing when we may wish to redirect the nose of the plane without tipping the wings using the ailerons.


Moving from single stick to dual stick radios

Some people feel it is confusing to move from a single stick radio to a dual stick, radio, however, if you are flying mode 2, it really isn't confusing at all. If you think of your radio and your controls in this manner, there is no confusion moving back and forth between single stick and dual stick radios or between three channel R/E/T planes and A/E/T planes or planes that are A/E/R/T.

On a single stick radio, pitch and roll are on the single stick, which happens to be oriented to the right side of the radio. If this is a dual stick radio, pitch and roll are still on the right hand stick. It doesn't matter if it is a rudder/elevator plane or an aileron/elevator plane. Pitch and roll are on the right stick, or the only stick.

Think of your controls this way and there is never a doubt what goes where or which controls to use when you switch between radios and planes.

I hope this was helpful.

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Old 03-15-2008, 04:16 AM   #41
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Originally Posted by AEAJR View Post
Let us know how it works out.
Received replacement controler from Horizon Hobby...."Rocking/Glitching" remained the same. HH Tech could not speculate w/o testing electronics. I returned fuse w/electronic parts and Tx to them. They will send replacement upon receipt. While I am w/o plane they certainly seem to be trying to do the right thing! Looks like I may never know actual cause of problem...
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Old 03-22-2008, 02:21 AM   #42
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Originally Posted by AEAJR View Post
Let us know how it works out.

Horizon Hobby received my SC on 3-18...tested for servo/Rx problem....They gave me no specific explainations today (3-21) but, true-to-their-word, are Fed Ex'ing a new plane to me. Sure can't beat that service... I will have to post general kudos to them when new plane arrives...

Ed, thanks for your valuable info!
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Old 04-09-2008, 03:06 AM   #43
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This is great reading. I converted this to a PDF for my own use but thought maybe somebody else might like it in that format too. So here it is.

Thank you Ed.

Tim


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Old 04-09-2008, 03:07 AM   #44
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Thanks Tim. That's pretty cool.

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Old 04-09-2008, 03:37 AM   #45
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Thanks Tim...Now I can try to absorb more of Ed's wisdom while off-line!
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Old 06-09-2008, 04:49 PM   #46
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hello guys !! exellent work here !!

I got a question.
I am searching for ESC for a ARF model that I am building and I have foud something not mentioned here. ESC with breaks and w/no breaks. what is that and how I know wich one to buy. I will use a speed400 geared 3:00.1 motor system. with 8cell 750 mAh and 10x6 prop or 9x6. any help please.
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Old 06-09-2008, 04:56 PM   #47
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The brake function in the ESC is used to stop the propeller from spinning freely when the throttle is moved to zero.

A free spinning propeller creates a lot of drag. If you like to glide your plane, stopping the prop will give you a MUCH better glide.

On electric sailplanes/gliders, an ESC with a brake is a must have.

Some give you a choice of a hard brake or a soft brake. This has to do with how fast it stops the prop. My suggestion is, if you have a gearbox, use the soft brake. It takes some of the stress off the gears.

BTW, that also goes for the throttle, some offer a soft start as well as a regular start. If you are flying aerobatics, 3D, pattern or the like, where throttle response is important, then the regular start is what you want. But if you are a casual flyer, the soft start will take some stress off the gearbox.

Hard start or regular start will apply full power to the motor immediately. Soft start might build it up over a second or two. I use soft start on my gliders, regular start on my sport planes.

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Old 06-09-2008, 09:35 PM   #48
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Originally Posted by AEAJR View Post
The brake function in the ESC is used to stop the propeller from spinning freely when the throttle is moved to zero.

A free spinning propeller creates a lot of drag. If you like to glide your plane, stopping the prop will give you a MUCH better glide.

On electric sailplanes/gliders, an ESC with a brake is a must have.

Some give you a choice of a hard brake or a soft brake. This has to do with how fast it stops the prop. My suggestion is, if you have a gearbox, use the soft brake. It takes some of the stress off the gears.

BTW, that also goes for the throttle, some offer a soft start as well as a regular start. If you are flying aerobatics, 3D, pattern or the like, where throttle response is important, then the regular start is what you want. But if you are a casual flyer, the soft start will take some stress off the gearbox.

Hard start or regular start will apply full power to the motor immediately. Soft start might build it up over a second or two. I use soft start on my gliders, regular start on my sport planes.
I hate going over a mods post, but - the "better" ESC's are programmable, so u can say if there is a soft start or reg start, or brake or no brake - and so on. It is worth your money to get a programmable ESC, since it can be set for the way u want to fly that day.
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Old 06-12-2008, 10:40 AM   #49
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what is the max voltage you can put on a futaba 6 chanel reciver with out burning it up? Will it handle 7.4 lipo?My 6 volt flight batterys have bit the dust and about coust me a airplane Glenn
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Old 06-12-2008, 02:13 PM   #50
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Originally Posted by Nemesiselite View Post
I hate going over a mods post, but - the "better" ESC's are programmable, so u can say if there is a soft start or reg start, or brake or no brake - and so on. It is worth your money to get a programmable ESC, since it can be set for the way u want to fly that day.
Mods are not gods, just guys who enjoy the hobby and are willing to give up some of thier time to help the forum operate.

I presume your point is that not all ESC have these features. That is quite true.

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