hi,i'm building a DH-2 from scratch. i wont be useing any laser cutting just a table and scroll saw plus the usual hand tools. this plane will have a fully working cockpit and even the knome motor will spin with the electric motor. this will be a highly detailed museum quality build.i thought about useing fiberglas for the front of the fuse or even wood laminations over a skeliton frame. after alot of heming and hawing i decided to vacuform the piece. it's a very formidable piece to produce with all it's compound curves. i'm going to form it in 2 pieces as my vacu system is only 10"x10" and then glue together, fill and sand. i'll be useing very thick 0.60 black styrene. i made the plugs out of very hard balsa. i always put a car wax or silicone wax on the surface of the plugs and buff them out when they are complete. i use a little talcum powder on them just before i form the plastic over them. i used litho plate and small rivets for the banding. here are a few pics of the work so far.
i got some more of the fuse done and also framed up some of my tail feathers. i cut my struts from spruce and finished them so they will be ready when i get to that point. i also installed the rudder bar, i have a small etching tank and besides making brass or stainless parts from scratch i also design them on my computer and etch them which intails takeing the artwork to film on my printer and exposing the metal to U.V. light that has been coated with photo resist. i will be etching a lot of parts for this build. i'm working with p. neate plans. here are couple more pics of the build so far.
thought i would post a couple more pis of the inner workings such as the rudder bar, servo deck and control stick. i could not find for the life of me any thing on the net as far as a close up of the control stick. i do know because of the placement of the horz. to the elevator horns and from what pics i do have that the stick has to pivoy left to right and a solid placement foward and reverse to control the elev.. so i got left to right covered for the alierons but how do i get elev. movment with out affecting the alieron shaft and keep it from going up and down. i'm not sure if this is the way they did it in 1916 but it works and works well and as i see it there arn't to many ways to do this plus at 1/6 scale you don't have alot of room for a cockpit that works so i built a minature universal so to speak. so i hand cut all the parts and silver soldered every thing together and it works just fine, you'll see when you look at the pics.
Wow. There is a guy who built a really nice blue foam DH-2 over on RC Groups (forgive me, for I have sinned), but your vacuum formed and balsa composite model is fan-freaking-tastic. Outstanding workmanship. I am running out of superlatives.
first i'd like to thank everyone for there compliments and i have another batch of pics of the build progress.i started some of the grommet work on the sides. i did this by useing 1/64 ply as a stiffner and predrilled holes in the ply then i wrap and seal in solartex leaving a 1/4" tab. useing a soldering iron i then burn holes through the solartex where i predrilled and then set the brass eyelets in and then useing a tool i made i tap the reverse side and expand the eyelet to anchorit in place. i decided to keep everything in brass and not paint anything, it seems to be a nice change. i have about 75% of the cockpit detail done, a little more instrumentation and a few other things and will call it done. i also built a wicker seat it took about 12 hrs to design, cut and weave it. the seat cushion is in tan leather, all the leather work will match the seat. well that's all for now i'll keep you updated on the progress.