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Old 09-10-2009, 01:38 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by gramps2161 View Post
That is sweeeet you have the a lot of different skills going for you and the patience of a saint. You should submit this build to model aviation the detail is incredible.
Yes, I agree with Gramps, this build would make for some Great Reading in Model Aviation Mag. Take care, Chellie

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Old 09-10-2009, 11:03 PM   #27
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Default DH-2 scratchbuild

thanks Chellie, i do think 99% of the folks on this forum no more than i ever will. ive only done 2 kit builds and this is my first scratch build,actually my second, my first was a 1/7 scale fokker dv11 and the plans were so bad i ended up smashing it to smitherenes. but ive come to learn that if the plans are not of a kit build you have to think outside the box and 20 steps ahead in otherwords if you cut a part from a plane and think it going to fit like a glove or at all for that matter your in for a rude awakening and this just shows how naive i am and how new i am at this hobby( less than 2 yrs) but i'm learning. as far as modeling i must be a natural. in my whole intire life i probably built 3 plastic kits and thats when i was ten and was a long, long time ago. i started this hobby and fell in love with it and seem to like the building more than flying. at a time when there is very little creative challenge at least for me it's been a life saver. anyway enough with the bio, some more pics of the progress. the cockpit is all finished and i also handstitched the combing on to match the seat cushion and i framed up the tail feathers. i built the LG out of brass tube with the apropriate size music wire running through them for strength. the same for the hardwood legs, i made them solid then i made a drill bit 7 inches long and put a hole all the way down through them so i could insert music wire and weld them to the mounting stud. i'm starting to scratch build a 7 cylinder gnome. the only thin i'll be useing that were made already are some cylinders from a 1/6 scale WB lerhone which i'll modify to represent a gnome cylinder.


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Old 09-10-2009, 11:25 PM   #28
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Talking DCflyer I Think You Have Got the Knack

Beautiful Work, I am loving this Build


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Old 09-10-2009, 11:43 PM   #29
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to funny Chellie LOL.
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Old 09-10-2009, 11:47 PM   #30
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If that is how long you have been building then I'm way behind the eight ball and you have a gift not a knack. Again great looking work DCflyer.
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Old 09-11-2009, 02:20 AM   #31
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That level of detail in such a short time is genius IMHO.
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Old 09-11-2009, 02:52 AM   #32
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Hi DC flyer are you also SPIKKKKKKKK over at RCG, Some really nice builds there too, but they were never finished, like the DR1 and DV11 and the poor Proctor N-11 that a drunk flew and crashed it Oh well, thats RC, Take Care, Chellie

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Old 09-11-2009, 03:00 AM   #33
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Looks like we had a Spikkkkkkkk here on Wattflyers too, and he did not finish a DR1 build

http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38081

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Old 09-12-2009, 03:54 PM   #34
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Default scratcbuilt airco DH-2

i'm not going to confirm or denie that's why there are a couple of sights i don't subscribe to anymore, to much bad blood. here are some pics of a 1/5 scale proctor N-11, it's all repaired now and a VK DR1 1/6 scale i did. as for the 1/8 scale dr1 there was a flood in my basement and the moister from it warped this plane beyond anykind of straigtning so i scratched that build and the 1/6 scale DV11 got so bad because of the plans it became a source of frustration not enjoyment so i smashed it to bits of course keeping any thing worth salvageing. that's it shellie, thats all ive built. by the way i was admireing some of your builds and such, and maybe different from what i do you are an incredibly resourceful and innovative women and would be proud to call you friend anyday.
Rob


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Old 09-12-2009, 04:18 PM   #35
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DC hope you continue post here on your builds looking forward to seeing more of your talent. Great pic's of your past builds.

The pic on the instrument panel is a nice touch carrying a loved one to battle.
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Old 09-12-2009, 11:02 PM   #36
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Impressive! Can't wait to see more on this one...

Rob, if you could suggest what kind of tools to use to cut the small brass and other metal parts...It would be greatly appreciated. I have some electroplate and brass that need to be cut for a long stalled project.

Tim
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Old 09-13-2009, 01:44 AM   #37
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Originally Posted by DCflyer View Post
i'm not going to confirm or denie that's why there are a couple of sights i don't subscribe to anymore, to much bad blood. here are some pics of a 1/5 scale proctor N-11, it's all repaired now and a VK DR1 1/6 scale i did. as for the 1/8 scale dr1 there was a flood in my basement and the moister from it warped this plane beyond anykind of straigtning so i scratched that build and the 1/6 scale DV11 got so bad because of the plans it became a source of frustration not enjoyment so i smashed it to bits of course keeping any thing worth salvageing. that's it shellie, thats all ive built. by the way i was admireing some of your builds and such, and maybe different from what i do you are an incredibly resourceful and innovative women and would be proud to call you friend anyday.
Rob
Ok Thats Understandable Rob And i would be proud to call you my friend Too Rob Take care, Chellie

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Old 09-13-2009, 08:47 PM   #38
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Default airco DH-2 scratchbuild

Originally Posted by barmonkey View Post
Impressive! Can't wait to see more on this one...

Rob, if you could suggest what kind of tools to use to cut the small brass and other metal parts...It would be greatly appreciated. I have some electroplate and brass that need to be cut for a long stalled project.

Tim
hi tim, i use basic hobby tools, exacto knife, jewelers saw etc. for alum. i hand cut every thing with exacto and i use litho plate that's about 0.13 to 0.15 thick score and bend sand and smooth. to get shape i tack on a template on paper output from corel graphic program. i use corel for every thing, i find it easier than my cad programs and it does basically the same thing. now the big question " brass" and if you happen to catch on the first page that i etch all my brass parts. about 6 months ago i purchsed a small etching system from micro-mark, they have a incredible site for online hobbiest of all types. anyway when i found out how easy it was to do etching in your basement it blew me away. since then ive really mastered the process by getting a bigger tank and adding citric acid to my ferric chloride and little things like that to make it faster and also makes your etching solution last longer. i still purchase all my chemicals ferric clhoride, sodium hydroxide, photo resist which covers both sides of your metal plate ( stainless steel or brass) and inkjet film from micromark.com . here are a few pics of the process and you can also make 3 dementional parts or write by scoring or writing some verbage on one side of your film this way it only etches part way. i forgot to add that my stainless steel or brass ranges from 0.05 to 0.15 in thickness, the thicker it is the longer it takes to etch and i wouldn't put anyting thicker through my laminator.


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Old 09-13-2009, 08:51 PM   #39
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Looks like a fish tank and air stone.
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Old 09-13-2009, 08:52 PM   #40
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Originally Posted by DCflyer View Post
hi tim, i use basic hobby tools, exacto knife, jewelers saw etc. for alum. i hand cut every thing with exacto and i use litho plate that's about 0.13 to 0.15 thick score and bend sand and smooth. to get shape i tack on a template on paper output from corel graphic program. i use corel for every thing, i find it easier than my cad programs and it does basically the same thing. now the big question " brass" and if you happen to catch on the first page that i etch all my brass parts. about 6 months ago i purchsed a small etching system from micro-mark, they have a incredible site online for hobbiest of all types. anyway when i found out how easy it was to do etching in your basement it blew me away. since then ive really mastered the process by getting a bigger tank and adding citric acid to my ferric chloride and little things like that to make it faster and also makes your etching solution last longer. i still purchase all my chemicals ferric clhoride, sodium hydroxide, photo resist which covers both sides of your metal plate ( stainless steel or brass) and inkjet film from micromark.com . here are a few pics of the process and you can also make 3 dementional parts or write by scoring or writing some verbage on one side of your film this way it only etches part way.
Very nice work!

We use Corel in my manufacturing class at my school and it is much easier than using Auto Desk. Except we export it to the CNC rather than print out templates.

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Old 09-13-2009, 09:02 PM   #41
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Do you have a link for the site withe the etching materials.
And do they have instructions too?

Paul
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Old 09-13-2009, 11:01 PM   #42
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Originally Posted by pd1 View Post
Do you have a link for the site withe the etching materials.
And do they have instructions too?

Paul
yes, it's micromark.com and yes they do have instructions
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Old 09-13-2009, 11:23 PM   #43
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Default DH-2

Originally Posted by dbcisco View Post
Looks like a fish tank and air stone.
yes it is a plastic fishtank and holds a 5" piece square of brass opposed to micromark's plastic tank and ive since moved on from air stone to a custom airiator that i use. the stone breaks down and desinagrates after 5 or 6 etchings and my new one has more thrust to make things faster. you definitely want to go with plastic or glass or plexi thats glued together, NO METAL like glass tank has holding the corners together plus anything that's glued together has to withstand the heat from your ferric chloride, you have to heat your chemical just below boiling it makes the etching faster and cleaner that's why i chose a molded tank to eliminate some of the variables some day when i have the money i will go with a lexan or plexi with the special glue and also a ceramic heating element so i would never have to take the ferric chloride out except when it gets bad,( to many etchings) and pour some fresh stuff in. micromark.com gives you a plastic tank that's 3 1/2" square by 10", it's tall like a quart of milk that's so you only have add 16 oz. of etchant to get the desired depth
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Old 09-13-2009, 11:47 PM   #44
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Reminds me off the photo etching of circuit boards I did years ago. Same principles?
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Old 09-14-2009, 04:49 PM   #45
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Default airco DH-2 scratchbuild

i finally finished my 7 cyl. gnome. i just about scratch built the whole thing. for one thing you cant find a gnome in 1/6 scale but do believe WB sells a 1/4 scale cylinder. so i scavenged the net for reference material, ( ther seems to be quite a few versions of this engine) and started building. the crankcase is made from 1/16 ply laminated with 0.10 stainless steel. i used some existing cyl. i had left over from my newport 11 build. i had to make a 1/5 scale( which they dont make) out of two 1/6 scale lerhone kits, that was a challenge i was newer at this than i am now. back to the knome i cut the head off the cyl and a little nip and tuck here and there.every else i etched in brass and stainless steel. the new heads are all soldered together and were made from 3 brass circles from small to large with 0.15 thickness all notched and stacked. all the 3-D were etched flat with a score line etched on one side for easy and clean bending into it's form. the crank cover etc. is stainless steel backed by 1/16 ply lamed together. the engine also spins at about 1/6 the overall rpm and seems to look relly good no wobble. i did this by fluting the inside of my mount and the engine crankcase so it basically pinwheels at about 1000 rpm and seems very balanced with my out runner a 35-48-850 rimfire with a 70 amp speed controller. i think if i hooked up the dummy motor with the outrunner the torque and kv combined would have been to much, gnome parts flying every where, duck. talk to you in a bit.


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Old 09-14-2009, 06:40 PM   #46
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OH MY , this plane is really over the top , I cannot wait to see it complete and flying .

DO not tell us that the rocker arms are working as it rotates also
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Old 09-14-2009, 07:47 PM   #47
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Again, my jaw has dropped to the floor..
Just amazing !!


When I grow up, I want to be like DCflyer !!

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Old 09-14-2009, 08:04 PM   #48
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Oh brother...


That photo of the spinning motor had me feeling like



And you dont work for the Smithsonian because

Electricity... It's not just for light bulbs anymore.

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Old 09-14-2009, 08:18 PM   #49
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Amazing craftsmanship! What weight are you targeting?..

Are you really going to fly it or will it be for static display?.. If it were me I'd be frightened to fly it after putting in all that work. Flying or not it's a work of art.

Please keep the inspirational build photos coming.

Steve
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Old 09-14-2009, 08:55 PM   #50
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Hello all,

Very impressive work. You should enter this in Top Gun contest and it will blow away many of much larger models. This model once completed should be in the Smithonian Museum in the WW1 Gallergy section! DP
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