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Old 09-27-2009, 04:21 AM   #1
FoamHeadMike
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Default Dollar Tree Foam Board

I got the heads up about thislittle tio at RC Groups where someone mentioned that it was good foam to build planes with if you want to take he time of wetting down the board and peeling off the paper.
well I went to dollar tree today and got 6 pieces of the foam board and I took the sheets home and hosed them down until the paper was saturated the n peeled off the paper and to my amazement the paper came off very easily and Man the foam under neats the paper is very good quality foam!
so any one else flying dollar tree foam?

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Old 09-27-2009, 05:16 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by FoamHeadMike View Post
I got the heads up about thislittle tio at RC Groups where someone mentioned that it was good foam to build planes with if you want to take he time of wetting down the board and peeling off the paper.
well I went to dollar tree today and got 6 pieces of the foam board and I took the sheets home and hosed them down until the paper was saturated the n peeled off the paper and to my amazement the paper came off very easily and Man the foam under neats the paper is very good quality foam!
so any one else flying dollar tree foam?
http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16392

http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16298

http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/show...124#post265124
my first pusher jet was dollar foam board

http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25054

the foam board has to be braced a little more than Depron does, cf tube works great, its easier to cut the foam with the paper on, then soak the paper off, hope that helps, Take care and have fun building, Chellie

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Old 09-27-2009, 05:23 AM   #3
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Or, for those less weight concious people, leave the paper on and it adds plenty of stiffness
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Old 09-27-2009, 05:28 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by mumblinaviator View Post
Or, for those less weight concious people, leave the paper on and it adds plenty of stiffness
Yes it does add strength, its best to remove the paper if the wing span is under 30" over 30" leave the paper on, the paper is half the weight of the foam board, and the extra 30"+ wing span can handel it with no problem, just my 2 cents worth, Take care, Chellie

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Old 09-27-2009, 06:23 AM   #5
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When i did the 36" fokker I lrft the paper on the exposed side for the fuselage and top of the wings. It helped hold the curves (heated in), looked nice and gave strength. without the paper it was too "floppy". The 20" S.E.5 wings I did didn't need the paper at all.
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Old 09-27-2009, 06:26 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by dbcisco View Post
When i did the 36" fokker I lrft the paper on the exposed side for the fuselage and top of the wings. It helped hold the curves (heated in), looked nice and gave strength. without the paper it was too "floppy". The 20" S.E.5 wings I did didn't need the paper at all.

Great Advice dbcisco, leaving the paper on one side of the foam, take care and have fun, Chellie

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Old 09-27-2009, 11:25 AM   #7
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Thumbs up

Thanks for the tips guys
as soon as I got home from the store I sprayed the foam down with a hose and peeled the paper off
I think I am going to build a divinity wing and start the wings for a 50" F4 Corsair and go get moe foam from thr dollar store

Ya once I peeled the paper off I really liked what I saw
looks to be close to FFF (minus the blue )but better quality
and Ya I will be using plenty of Carbon tube and rod and probably some ply wood here and there

definitely worth a dollar per sheet
FFF is still the best bargan though IMO

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Old 09-27-2009, 02:05 PM   #8
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hey is this the same as the wal-mart foam board, looked at that stuff last night,

different strokes for different folks.
It is what i wan't it to be
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Old 09-28-2009, 01:12 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by crashoverride View Post
hey is this the same as the wal-mart foam board, looked at that stuff last night,
no the paper on the Wal Mart board is higher quality and harder to remove than the dollar tree board but the foam on the dollar tree board is really good stuff.

plus wal mart board is way more expensive.

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Old 10-17-2009, 10:14 PM   #10
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do i need to just peel the paper or should i remove the glue layer as well? its a pita to get the glue off after peeling the paper
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Old 10-17-2009, 11:55 PM   #11
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I use Elmers Foam board a lot, but once I used depron I may never go back. Its good for building a fuselage from where the "floppiness" doesn't make a difference. For flat wings (like for profile foamies) its a little too weak IMO.

I've tried removing the paper on one side and the foam warped a bit. Removing the paper backing and completely covering it with packing tape helps a lot. Fiberglass reinforced tape would be even better. Much lighter than the paper left on, and still durable.

You're better off removing the glue. Better surface finish, less weight (although it may be negligible). I often use a spray bottle with a water/rubbing alcohol mix, spray the board until wet, then run off the stubborn bits of paper and glue.

I don't have any experience with Walmart or Dollar Tree foam. It may be different.
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Old 10-18-2009, 12:10 AM   #12
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thanks i'm removing the glue too...i'm planning a chellie slow stick and also a high wing tail dragger fuse for a 36" wing i have laying around so should be perfect!!
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Old 10-18-2009, 12:25 AM   #13
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This is what you can do with foam board. I kept the paper on one side and there wasn't much glue left on the removed side.


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Old 10-18-2009, 12:29 AM   #14
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I have two pieces of the Dollar Tree foam board and it is nice stuff. I am using it as the internal frame for the fuselage based off of some balsa plans. I left the paper on as most of my build consists of blue foam (Dow PBIII) so there really won't be much of a weight penalty. The paper on both sides does give good surface rigidity, but if you peel it off the foam is softer than depron. Like most have already said in this thread- reinforce it if you take the paper off (tooth picks, bamboo skewers, carbon fiber, whatever fits your budget!). I am going to use it as the rudder and elevator on this model, but they will be getting some bamboo leading edges as well as water-based polyurethane coating before all is said and done. I have some pictures in case anyone is interested.


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Old 10-18-2009, 12:58 AM   #15
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yeah Chellie's slow stick has some bass wood running on the leading and trailing edges, for my fuse it seems like it will be stiff enough as sheeting and formers, i was going to use it for the rudder and elevator of the high wing but since that wing is a nice balsa job i think i'll stick build it and cover it with some some of the same monokote... should look nice, i need a color for the fuse though, wing is dark trans red this leads to another question

can you cover this foam with monokote?
what works good for surface finishing it? i was going to do the slow stick with perm marker but want something nicer for the fuse on the other plane

thanks
Pete
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Old 10-18-2009, 02:22 AM   #16
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This F4U Corsair Fuse was built from Dollar tree Foam board

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Old 10-18-2009, 03:09 AM   #17
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Very nice looking Corsair fuselage Mike, the foam Board with the paper removed, seems to be easier to make curve parts with, as the depron is a little stiff, but by using both foams, you can have a very nice plane thats not to Hard to build.

BTW Mike, your building Table is Way to Clean and Neet

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Old 10-18-2009, 03:17 AM   #18
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Nice looking Corsair! Nice curves!
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Old 10-18-2009, 03:43 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by CHELLIE View Post
Very nice looking Corsair fuselage Mike, the foam Board with the paper removed, seems to be easier to make curve parts with, as the depron is a little stiff, but by using both foams, you can have a very nice plane thats not to Hard to build.

BTW Mike, your building Table is Way to Clean and Neet
CHELLIE
I have discovered that I Actually like working with depron a little better on these types of builds because it is more rigid than the DT foam which makes for an all around stronger air plane.


this particulsr frame however will weigh in very light which is a plus for 3D type of flying
I will use the StyroSpray1000 on this fuse to add a lot of strength to make it a bit more crash proof because as it is now this frame would not survive mush of a bump because it is egg shell delicate.
I will leave the DT foam for flying wings and simpler and smallerdesigns from now on This foam was just not made or 50" plus WS foam air frames however it will eventually catch wind sooner or later


Thanks dbcisco

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Old 10-18-2009, 03:46 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by biznak View Post
yeah Chellie's slow stick has some bass wood running on the leading and trailing edges, for my fuse it seems like it will be stiff enough as sheeting and formers, i was going to use it for the rudder and elevator of the high wing but since that wing is a nice balsa job i think i'll stick build it and cover it with some some of the same monokote... should look nice, i need a color for the fuse though, wing is dark trans red this leads to another question

can you cover this foam with monokote?
what works good for surface finishing it? i was going to do the slow stick with perm marker but want something nicer for the fuse on the other plane

thanks
Pete
Hi Pete Krylon short cut paint works great, but only use in thin coats, as it can eat into the foam if a heavy coat is used, i use it all the time on foam and wood, the krylon H2O paint is very very heavy, as its a latex house type paint, hope that helps, Chellie

http://www.misterart.com/g1014/Krylon-Short-Cuts.htm





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Old 10-18-2009, 04:06 AM   #21
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Thanks for the tip Chellie! You always have good tips!
Have you tried the short-cuts on coverlite? I've been using testors with decent results but if short-cuts works better....
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Old 10-18-2009, 04:09 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by dbcisco View Post
Thanks for the tip Chellie! You always have good tips!
Have you tried the short-cuts on coverlite? I've been using testors with decent results but if short-cuts works better....
Hi dbcisco I have not tried short cuts on coverlite, but i think it should work ok, you will just have to try it on a scrap piece and see, Take care and have fun, Chellie

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Old 10-18-2009, 04:35 AM   #23
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Hi Chellie, That Corsair is great looking. Gotta get rid of the antenna wire though. I don't know what the normal range on your Rx is but if you are not flying too far you could probably do as I do and wind up a lot of the Rx wire on a bobbin made of depron. Just don't wrap it over itself. Then feed the remainder down throught the fuse. I fly a berg 4 Rx with a Lite_flite indoord antenna on one of my bigger foamies-outdoors- without ever having a glitch. Al
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Old 10-18-2009, 04:39 AM   #24
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Sweet Looking Corsair CHELLIE

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Old 10-18-2009, 06:24 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by dbcisco View Post
Thanks for the tip Chellie! You always have good tips!
Have you tried the short-cuts on coverlite? I've been using testors with decent results but if short-cuts works better....
Originally Posted by aramsdell View Post
Hi Chellie, That Corsair is great looking. Gotta get rid of the antenna wire though. I don't know what the normal range on your Rx is but if you are not flying too far you could probably do as I do and wind up a lot of the Rx wire on a bobbin made of depron. Just don't wrap it over itself. Then feed the remainder down throught the fuse. I fly a berg 4 Rx with a Lite_flite indoord antenna on one of my bigger foamies-outdoors- without ever having a glitch. Al
Originally Posted by FoamHeadMike View Post
Sweet Looking Corsair CHELLIE
Thank you Guys for the complements that corsair finally went in, At first I was Having a lot of trouble with the plane pulling to the right, left thrust and left aileron trim did not help very much, it took me weeks to find the problem, the right wing had a down twist to it, and thats very hard to see with a Gull wing, second, I was flying in a very high RFI area, Whitter Narrows, in So Calif, and my hitec receiver just could not filter all that junk out, and it glitched real bad and i lost it, now i only use Berg Receivers, i Love them no more Radio glitches on 72mMHz, i have a 2.4 radio too now a DX6i, but i love my 72 radio now with the Berg receiver, its Perfect I have flown at WN for over 25 years, and know that 72MHz radios with a channel of 45 or more, dont seem to like it there very much, i have normally flow on channel 16 for a long time, to avoid some of the RFI problems at WN, I wish i would have know about Berg receivers a long time ago I want to get another Corsair soon, but i have a lot of unfinished planes to get done first, and i am still in the middle of moving, Take care and have fun, Chellie

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