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| Delta & Flying Wings Discuss electric powered delta (flying wing) style aircraft here. |
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#1 | ||
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Some people call it Simple plastic aircraft design I preferred to call is Simple Plastic Airfoil Design. The first thing is to built a profile shape aircraft with its basic aerodynamic in place. You can use Depron, foam or simple fold a paper plane to make a profile aircraft . Just toss it around, make necessary modification or add weight at the nose until the proto-type can glide. Note the Balance point in which the proto-type glides well because this will be use later to determined the actual C.G. I started with the proto-type and the final finish product is a fast flying EDF jet. See attachment. |
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#2 | ||
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1. Cut out the template of the top and bottom wing see #3
2. Stack the top and bottom wing and tape out the leading edge see#4 3. Unfold the template and place it on the CP board. Make sure the flute of the CP is running perpendicular to the leading edge(or the edge you are going to fold). Flute line running perpendicular to the folding lines make the CP easier to fold) 4. Cut out the left and right wing as shown in #6 & #7 Note for this wing I use 2mm thick CP material More next time
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#3 | ||
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Retired Master Chief USN
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Hi
Very nice I love Spads Heres some info and more models to build http://www.spadtothebone.com/SPAD/ Take care Hank |
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"When wild the head-wind beat,Thy sovereign Will commanding, Bring them who dare to fly, To a safe landing."
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#4 | ||
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Hi Hank, thank you for the link.
Meanwhile, the SPAD wing is almost done up. Will post more picture when I have the time. ![]() Cheers |
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#5 | ||
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Continue from step4.
5. #8 picture .Score the folding lines with the blunt end of a steel rule or similar instrument before folding. Gently fold the wing. And hold down the wing but DO NOT APPLY Glue yet. You need to trace the chord profile so that you can use the profile to cut out the fuselage. 6. Picture#9 Wing temporary held down by clothes peg 7. picture#10 Trace the profile of the wing chord. Will be useful to build the fuselage. 8. picture#11. Remove the peg and join the left and right wing using masking tape and mark the spot where the carbon spar(I use 3mm hollowed carbon spar)will run across the wing. 9. picture#12 cut out the top doubler. This doubler should fit the vertex of the wing. The Flute should run lenthwise or spanwise to the wing. 10. picture#13 .Prefit the doubler and the carbon-spar 11. picture#14 . cut out the bottom double which is a small retangular CP. Pre-fit the top doubler ,Carbon spar and the lower doubler.( The doubler functions are to add strenth and join the two wing piece) 12. Picture#15. Cut out the airfoil spar. Note the flute should run widthwise .it is a tapered piece with the thickest height of 20mm and the thinest height of 16mm(base on my best estimate ) This important piece of CP is use to prevent the wing from collapsing inward during the fold. The toothpick is use to position the sparwithing the wing. It is important not to glue the toothpick but allow it to slide in and out of the flute. 13. Picture #16 Glue the Carbon Spar, both doublers. 13A#. Picture #13A For Glue get a good contact cement.(do not use C.A). I like it because it is light, cheap and dry fairly fast. |
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#6 | ||
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Cont. from 13
14. picture #17 position the short tapered spar on the wing . (In my case the spar is located aproximate 1/3( 3 1/8") from the vertex of the wing. Push the toothpick so that the toothpick so it goes through the wing. The tootpick has mark the positions. Slide out the spar from the toothpick and apply some Contact Cement(CC). Push the tapered spar so that it comes into contact with the the wing. Let the CC dry. 15. picture #18 shows the position of the short tapered spar. 16 This is crucial! picture#19 preparing to fold and glue the top wing. The tooth pick that is now protruding at the bottom of the wing. you need to pull(not pull out) it out a little bit so that the top end of the toothpick slides just below the tapered spar flute. You need to becareful of the shartp tooth pick that is sticking at the bottom of the wing. Use hollow some support below the wing. Light sand the wing area in which glue is to be apply. Some people to use flame flashing prior to gluing ,but I would not advise you since this CP is rather thin(2mm thick) 17 Picture#20. Apply thin layer of glue and fold the wing. Use clothes peg and masking tape to hold the wing down. Having done that, using a plier push the tooth pick from the bottom up so that it puncture the top wing. Repeat this process on the other wing. 18 Picture#20 If the process is correct, the folded wing should like this in picture#20 19 picture#21. Cut out the top spine with a width of 50mm and the vertex similar to the wing when this spine is on top side of the middle portion of the wing. 20 picture#22 .Position and glue the top spine to the wing. Use masking tape and weight down the wing especially the trailing `edge. Leave it overnight for the glue and the wing to set. 21. picture#23 &24. If the process is correct, the wing will be reasonaby straight and the curvature of both wings similar. |
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#7 | ||
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Continue from step 21.
22. Picture #25- The wing are folded and glued. As and added precaution, tape down the trailing edge with a broad packaging tape starting 1/4 inch from the top and slowing running over the bottom. This is to prevent the wing from coming apart if the CC glue fails. 23. picture#26 -Intall both servo as shown. Cut push rod to the correct length.I choose to put the servo on top of the wing because this plane is design for belly landing. 24. picture#27-Installing the elevon (aileron) hinges. One of my most favourite hinge material is the 40mm width surgical tape under the brand name blenderm from 3M. They have both the elastic version and the non elastic version. Choose the elastic version. It has some unique properties. It has strong adhesive. Very strong and stick like leeches even when wet. 25.Picture #28-set the throw to max angle of 30 deg each way before applying the surgical tape. You can set to higher angle but it will make the hinges sloppy. 26. Picture#29 applying the tape hinges once the max throw are determined. 27. Picture#30-elevon & servo test . This completed the SPAD delta wing. More next time on SPAD fuselage. |
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#8 | ||
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Hi, here is the peek at the micro-servo partially inside the wing. This gives you a good idea of the chord thickness around the middle portion of the wing and the video clip of the servo elevon test.
![]() Cheers and more next time |
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#9 | ||
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After completion the wing, there are several option.
A) built with no fuselage like the a flying wing e.g. zagi or the slinger B) some simple fuselage ...perhaps a profile fuselage. I choose the profile fuselage with a 3200KV inrunner motor. With this in mind here are the step. 28. #picture26 cut out a suitable fuselage...same size and shape as the proto-type that produce a good reasonable gliding performance. Cut and separate the fuselage as shown. 29.# picture 27 &28 cut and shape the wing slot that can fit the curvature of the wing. Apply and repeat this procedure to bottom half of the fuselage 30. #picture 29 & 30 test fit the fuselage against the wing. Cut and rough file the fuselage to fit the wing. 31. #picture 31 start with the bottom fuselage add and glue 15x3mm medium hard wood or ply doubler to both sides of the fuselage. Let the wood doubler run from nose to tail. Shape to follow the profile of the nose. The wood doubler will also be used to hold the brushless inrunner motor. 32. #picture 32 mount the motor to the bottom fuselage as shown. 33. #picture 33 Trial fit the top fuselage to the motor. 34. #picture 34 cut the rear side of the top fuselage so that the motor can fit the top fuselage. 35. #picture 35 Trial fit the top fuselage to the wing and bottom fuselage with the wood doubler in place. Adjust the wood doubler so that the motor can fit and be mounted to this doubler. use a pencil to marked the position of the wood doubler. wood doubler is 3x15mm and let its length run from rear to the nose of the fuselage. Trim ther doubler to follow the profile of the nose. 36. # picture 36 Glue the wood doubler (both side of the top fuselage). wait for the glue to dry. 37. #picture 37 Assemble the top ,bottom fuselage and wing . Use Bamboo skewer or pins to hold the assembly in place. Mount the motor to the doubler of the top half of fuselage. the unit is now ready for final gluing and assembly. 38. # picture#38 , loosen the skewer and pins. Apply the CC(contact cement ) between the wing and both fuselage. Adjust the wing for good alignment to the fuselase. Ensure the fuselage is at the center of the wing and the vertical fin is perpendicular to the wing. let the glue set before final assembly and installment. Push bad the bamboo skewers and if necessary use elastic band to squeeze the to and bottom fuselage against the wing.
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#10 | ||
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cont. attachment picture 36,37,38
more next time.
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#11 | ||
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39.) Installed the radio , ESC accordingly. Make an opening so that the battery can sit into the opening at the nose end of the plane . The trick is not to cut a complete slot but a simple H slot. Fold back the plastic as shown. Use clothes peg to pull back the folded CP (like open chest surgery like the skin and muscles are pull back to open the check...just an analogy)
40.) when the fold is complete, the battery should slide in the slot pretty tightly. If necessary, use velcro to keep the battery in place. Now for the maiden see video http://www.youtube.com/user/starscre.../0/MGrfiHgEN5Y More next time. |
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#12 | ||
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Having successfully maiden the aircraft and some more trimming and adjustment , this SPAD, I believe has great potential.
Here are some picture taken during the fun fly. This plane is fun to fly. No tipstall or nasty habit. Pretty fast and agile. Depends on the motor and power plant setup, this plane is capable of joining the 100MPH club. In my previous post I mentioned the motor to be a 3.2Kv. it is most likely to be a 3.5 or 3.6KV motor. The static rpm is around 37,000rpm on a 4.5x4 inches prop drawing 20amps. Enjoy. ![]() cheers |
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#13 | ||
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hi, here is the picture of the delta spad. This is the 3rd SPAD sucessful maiden today.
It is faster then is predessesor because of some changes made . Same power plant use. I like to correct the current drawn as previously reported of 20amps is incorrect. It is now drawing 28amps on a 3 good cell lipo The higher flying speed attributed to a thinner both in cordwise and thickness. It has a more flat bottom airfoil and a curvature top airfoil. It was fun racing with some fun-jet today. This 3rd spad with a sexy colored scheme(pinky is very visible and nice in the air. Sorry no video yet. ![]() Cheers |
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#14 | ||
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Here is the video of the "pink Colored SPAD" made of corrugated plastic in action
Best view at full screen as the video taken with a camera video at wide angle. This plane is fast. I modified this particular SPAD to enhance its speed. Thinner airfoil & shorter wing span. The advantage of the faster speed is it will unload the propeller more and reduce current at speed flight. As a result a 1750mah 3S 25C cells gives me nearly 4-5 minutes flight. Enjoy the video. Cheers |
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#15 | ||
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Here is the video
Very good flying characteristics More next time.
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#16 | ||
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Here are some picture. This fuselage is make up of 2pcs of 2mm c.p. that has the flute direction perpendicular. When they are glued together ...a sort of ply bend and shaped correctly ,they become one very "tough cookie' . This Fuselage has taken quite a few crashes this evening and still survive. ![]() Cheers |
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#17 | ||
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My pink colored Coroplast Aircraft videpo after it is tweak.
Video cameraman has a hard time tracking the plane because it is too small and too fast. Cheers |
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#18 | ||
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Hi, I have compiled some video footages of the SPAD aircraft during the early part of the experiment. Although the video show 3 crashes there were several more crashes not caught on video. In most of the crashes, the wing always survive but not the fuselage. This has lead me to design a better, stronger and lighter fuselage that can take some of the worst crashes and yet survive.
Crash video link ![]() Cheers |
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#19 | ||
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Hi, here is the video link to my corrugated plastic EDF version with a proper fuselage in action. It's very stable and almost crash proof.The corrugated ply fuselage is very tough.
Hi Chellie does this remind you of the depron version of your scratch built EDF? Cheers |
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#20 | ||
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Originally Posted by babylon5
It sure does
BTW nice job on the SPAD, Take care, Chellie
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I may be getting Older, But I Refuse to grow Up
I am Having to much Fun to Grow Up LOL
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#21 | ||
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Here is the latest update of my mini interceptor corrugated built aircraft.
Part1 or earlier flight before the modification. partII Upgraded and modification for speed and agility. Modifications: 1) Reduction of fuselage mean thickness by 10mm (slender ) to reduce further drag. 2) Replaced the 2.5KV/V motor with a 1.4KV/V running a bigger 7-6 propeller 3) Added Rudder control for tighter and possible knife edge type of turn. ( with this modification, I can have a good dogfight with my friend's fun jet.) The penalty is and increase of the weight to 815-830grams...getting heavier. Enjoy the video. Please let me know your honest comment so I can make further improvement to my built.
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#22 | ||
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Hi, Chellie, I have change the 55mm EDF on a 4.2KV ourunner with the 64mm 5blade running on a 4KV outrunner.
Surprisingly, the current consumption at max power was much lower 21amps versus 27amps on the 55mmEDF. For speed and vertical performance feels about the same as the previous setup. See video link. Cheers and enjoy the video. |
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#23 | ||
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Hi, I have re-built my first scratch built prototype micro-interceptor.
Better wing built allows the plane to fly straight at high speed. First part uses a lousy new batteries from H.K. so the speed was disapointment The second part after timeline 3.00 performance is better using a better but older lipo Is there anyone who can do a doppler speed on the second part of the test flight ? Thank you in advance and enjoy the video. ![]() Cheers |
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#24 | ||
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This delta mugi is similar to the original except with lots of differences.
The spine and the doubler are removed in favor of a proper lifting fuselage. A spacer added about slightly less than 1/2 from the vertex so that when the coroplast in folded, it will always give symetrical airfoil(last picture on the right. Another departure from the original mugi is the servo are not installed prior to folding with good reason. The servo will be installed last. I will come to it later. The picture tells all. |
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#25 | ||
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Hi,
I have just finished building my Depron Delta. It is a good stable 4 channel elevon trainer. ![]() ![]() Also I made a video of it to show the constuction and test flight http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b_KKH1X4WJg |
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