Into The Miss Stik ~ Finished.

[FlyWheel]

( Apologies to Van Morrison )

YouTube Video

Doesn't look to good for flying today... so I guess I'll get off my duff and start this build.

First thing though, I have to neaten up my shop a bit.


That's better.


Okay enough of the foolishness. Since there is already a very long build thread on this bird at RCGroups, I'm not going to go into super detail about it, they already have. In fact I have a copy of that thread on the build table alongside Tom Hunt's directions.



Had no problems so far understanding the directions, especially knowing they are meant to work with the plans. All I was able to get done so far was the bottom frame of the main wing, and the center spar, which is actually two pieces: A .126 x .375 x 25 piece of hardwood with a .125 x .250 x 12 piece of balsa glued to the top edge...

Note the clothespins clamping it, Got that idea somewhere here. Leaving the heater running overnight so the Ambroid can dry proper, it is supposed to get way down below freezing tonight.
Such is the problem with building in the winter, I guess.

[FlyWheel]

Got the main wing center section almost done. While the main spar was clamped to the lower frame and setting, I measured and precut each of the upper rib pieces. I also used a dull edge of my burr knife to pre-bend them where they would "crack" more cleanly over the spar, this lessened the splintering on the upper side and hopefully the amount of sanding necessary. I also sanded/beveled the ends so they would fit tightly.

I noticed while I was doing this that two of the pieces were somewhat harder than the rest (yes, they were all balsa, I didn't accidentally use a hardwood piece!), so I made sure they were used as the center two.


The wing section went together rather smoothly, the alphatic glue (TiteBond-II) giving me all the time I needed, so I was able to work at an unrushed, relaxed pace, knowing I had plenty of time.



I still have to put the .125 x .250 pieces between the upper rib sections. I'll do that tomorrow after what I have done has set completely.

[FlyWheel]

The roads in town were finally passable today, so I spent most of it catching up on errands. Also had to replace all the zip ties holding the tarp over the chicken pen, the weight of the snow was too much for them. Some of them snapped and the tarp had collapsed into the pen.

As such I didn't get a lot done on Mystique (hardly anything, really). I did manage to finish off the main wing center section (except for the sanding, of course). I'll start on the wing tips tommorow.

[stuart]

looks like things are moving along nicely. the miss stick is a great flying plane,a guy at the first club i joined let me fly his on the second day i visited the field.....when he flew it ,it looked very aerobatic with unlimited vertical climb.

will you be going translucent covering?

[FlyWheel]

Had some trouble with the sticks that are supposed to be bent, shaped and laminated for the leading and trailing edges of the wing tips, they break. I would think that .125 Sq. would be flexible enough on its own. So I cut all the pieces for both edges of both wingtips and let them soak.

When they were good and wet I carefully pinned them to the plan where they are supposed to go and I will let them dry, hoping they will hold their shape enough to work with. When they're dry I'll glue them together.

I will use this method on the tail feathers too if it works.

Question: Will alphatic glue (TiteBond II) work on wet wood? (edit: yes it will ) It is water based, and being able to glue it without having to wait until it's dry will save a lot of time. And Stu, I plan to cover her in Trans. purple with white trim.

[stuart]

thats gonna look great,see thru to the wood is class act build.ya gotta make the glue joints look clean.

thats a nice job of bending and pinning,when the ribs go in do you leave those strips pinned down to hold the shape,if so then the bend will definitely stay in the shape you made.....i think I'll visit the aerocraft site and check the instructions on the miss stick,i love flipping through manuals of kits on line to see whats involving the build.

[FlyWheel]

Got an aeroplane on my workbench, snow on my driveway and beach music on my radio.

I messed up on the LE, so I'm going to have to visit my "L"HS to get some more .125 x .125 stock eventually. Oh well, live and learn, at least it's stock wood .

Eventually got the lower half of the wing tips laminated and ribbed, by far the most difficult part of this build yet! But so far so good. I also glued together what will be the tip spars. they will have to be shaped to a long taper, which I'm sure will bring it's own challenges.




While they sat I rough sanded the center section, smoothing the joints and beveling the trailing edge. Thank goodness I saw far enough ahead to get myself a hobby plane! I would have had a real challenge getting that done with sandpaper, especially if I wanted it to be at least somewhat even (and I do).



Next I will shape the spar (half balsa, half hardwood (yeah, I know, technically balsa is a hardwood too). Once I got that shaped I should be able to pretty much finish off the wingtips. I think I'm going to have to pick up some lightweight spackle if I want a smooth finish on the skeleton of this bird. That and trim my nails.

[riverrat]

Subscribed!
Jimmy

[FlyWheel]

Originally Posted by riverrat

Subscribed!
Jimmy

Thanks Jimmy.

First thing I did today was to shape the outer wing spars. This was really nothing new to me, other than the fact that I had never done this when the laminated pieced varied so much in hardness. But with judicious clamping, planeing (planing?) and sanding they came out great

Them done I started building up the wing tips. My "soak & crease" method of forming the upper rib pieces (as opposed to dry cracking them) seems to be working out pretty good. The resulting "ribs" turn out just as the designer intend: Straight from the spar to both the leading and trailing edges. The difference is the break is now a bend. Not only will this greatly simplify sanding, but the wood fibers are not broken, they're formed. How much this will effect the overall structural integrity is anyone's guess, but it sure looks a lot nicer!


The framing went together without any problems, It's a lot easier now that I have had some practice. I still have to add the spar caps, then shape and sand (that should be fun, with the curved laminated edges). Then the junction pieces go on and get shaped. Finally the wing goes together.



This is fun.

[FlyWheel]

I'm at a junction here and I'm not sure how to continue, due to this question. The instructions don't say, and there is nothing on the plans that I can see.

1. Does the Miss Stik need washout to fly right, or is this not really necessary? Overkill? Or worse, a bad thing?

If it does, then...

2. How much and what is the best way to do this? Attach the wing tips with a slight forward tilt? Or just warp the whole wing when overing/shrinking? Something I haven't thought of?

Remember, this is my first scratch/kit build, so please, K.I.S.

[gramps2161]

Flywheel this wing would not need any washout in it. This is a very stable wing design as it is. You will find that out when you fly it the first time.
Your build is coming along great been doing a little lurking here, and there.

[FlyWheel]

Got the wing tips shaped and smoothed, and put in the pieces in between the rib sections on the top and bottom. Sanded the ends square so (hopefully) both tips will go on at the right angles.



Finished off the day attaching the wedges to ends of the center section.


I sure hope you're right about washout, Gramps, because all the pieces of this wing are coming together tomorrow!

[gramps2161]

100% sure that no washout is needed Flywheel. That is a interesting way of making the airfoil of the wing with the balsa strips. That is a lot of work, and for a first build it is looking great.

[stuart]

very cool design by tom hunt, he make a lot of planes using mostly sticks only...this make repairs or replacement work easy not to have a bunch of ribs to replace.



Miss Stik Senior
Beginners airplane with old timer appeal
Designed by Tom Hunt
Wingspan: 55"
Wing Area: 400sq. in.
Length: 35.5"
Flying Weight: 20 - 24 oz.
Wing Loading 8oz. per sq.ft.

Price: $33.55

[FlyWheel]

Today was a day of shaping and sanding. got the wedge shaped pieces on the ends of the center section shaped to match the reat of the wing, and the wing tips all sanded to shape. Went to cut the slots in the wedges for the diagonal brace and ran into a brick wall: My needle files seem to have gone missing!

After looking all through my old machinist toolbox. my bicycling tool box, and every other place I keep tools (and a few I don't) I finally gave them up as lost. Guess I'll have to add that to the list of things I was going to get for the shop anyway and head up to Lowe's tommorrow.

[riverrat]

Mr. FlyWheel!

What kind of power are you thinking about using? I think an AXI 22/12/26 is recommended. Seems like that would be plenty of power.

Regards!
Jimmy

[gramps2161]

Don't forget you can use nail files to make groves to. Just don't let the wife or daughter find out you have been using them.

[FlyWheel]

River: The AXI 2212/26 outrunner is exactly the power plant I was intending to use. However instead of the cowling mount indicated in the plans I intend to reverse it and bolt her onto the firewall instead. That to me makes a lot more sence, especially when you consider the cowling is only held on to the fuse with tape! It will not only be more secure bolted directly to the plane. but setting and keeping the proper thrust angles should be easier too.

And since you brought it up, I have a Q; The plans call for a 2s lipo pack and a 10x7 slowfly prop (10x7 is slow?). However the AXI site recommends a 9x6 for this motor. At least when used in this kind of bird. I was thinking a compromise of say 10x6? Same amount of air being fanned, but should do so with fewer amps being drawn (will you listen to me? It almost sounds like I know what I'm talking about! :LOL: )

What do you think? About the prop selection, I mean.


Gramps: Thanks for the tip! I forgot all about nail files (DOH!). They would not only be cheaper but would eat through the wood better. Unless I can find some needle files made for wood and not just the jeweler's sets. You're talking about the sanded cardboard ones, right? I'll put them on my list too.

[gramps2161]

Yup I am talking about the cardboard ones they work great, but get ametal one as they are thinner. You can use the edge to make a thin groove with the metal ones.

[riverrat]

Mr. FlyWheel!

I'll tell you my expierence with the 22/12/26 & an AeroNaut 9X7 folder on a Turbo Spinner.

Watts=150, Amps=12.9 @ WOT static! Motor comes down way way too hot after 3-4 min. flight @ 50% T. Too much trust @ 100% T for AUW 20 oz. warmliner. Couldn't get it trimmed for more 50% T!! But my flying skills leave alot to be desired!!

Got an AreoNaut 9.5X5 will try that.

Regards!
Jimmy

[riverrat]

The test in prev. post was done using 3S.

I will try a 3S & 2S when I run a static test with the 9.5X5.

Any advice would be appreciated?

Regards
Jimmy

[FlyWheel]

<>150 WATTS?!?! GREAT SCOTT! The lights in my garage aren't that high!</> And the recommended prop on the plans is a 10x7?

Not a lot done today, but a lot involved in it. The nail file worked great, with a little help from the tip of my x-acto blade. Yeah, a flat needle file would have worked great. But I got the slot cut, and I had to trim the side of the brace a bit to get it to fit better between the top and bottom spar covers. I removed the plans from the top of the table and put the foam pieces end to end to fit the entire assembled wing on it.

The center section is not completely flat, but has a slight bow in it: When I hold one end down the other end sticks up about 1/4 of an inch, but the difference between the leading and trailing edges are only .010 (ten thousanths) of an inch, so it isn't warped. If I feel it is necessary I can shrink this out when I cover it. Still, just to be safe I pinned all four corners flat to the table when I assembled the wing.

After figuring out exactly how I was going to hold everything in place I got everything ready and started gluing and clamping. Both wing tips are being held 4 inches high as called for in the plans, +/- .005" (did I mention I used to be a machinist? ). With any luck they will still be that way when I release the completed main wing.

[FlyWheel]

Great! The wind tips held their placement, and everything is symmetrical to within .010"! The wing even balances within 1/8" from dead center. Naturally the covering is going to affect this.

The fuse is going to be trickier, the crutches came out easily enough...


As did the cabin sides. Here they are under construction.


I sanded all the pieces so the matching ones on each side were within .005" of each other, since this structure is what the wing is going to be mounted on. Putting it all together was tricky, since I have to clamp in all three dimensions at once. It took me a good part of the day coming up with a way I could pull it off. I guess I'm going to have to add some of those scissor-like clamps to my list.

[FlyWheel]

The fuselage top is coming along okay, this is as far as I got today.



There is a back plate that I cannot see clearly on the plans with the wood on top of it, and the perspective drawings aren't too great either; I'm still getting over the fact that I'm actually supposed to scale the drawings (a little engineering humor there). So I'm going to have to wait until it is cured so I can take it off and see exactly hot it works.

I wish I could have found a place that could have printed me out a copy of the plans, it would have made things easier at a number of junctures. Not that this has been a difficult plane to build.

[stuart]

i get copies made at staples office stores ,but make sure to check with a ruler the copy....i had the wing on my first hog build become over sized do to stretching of the copier.

now i pin up the copy and build on the original print. the thing that bugged me with the issues of large copies being off comes from my carpenter scaling off the drawings with a ruler...lol....a 1/4" =a ft...someone might build the bedroom closet to large..lol......i told staples copy center the problem and they should warn builders making copies and they didn't really care about the discrepancies between original print and the copies.

builds looking good!i keep checking your posts all the time to watch the progress.I've always been interested in these stick plane designs.