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Old 02-27-2011, 01:50 PM   #1
racquethand
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Default servo noise and control rods

Hi,
Just built a katana 49" wingspan and some of the new servo's make noise when at idle. If you work the controls the noise sometimes stops. Also the airlerons don't always stop at the same neutral place.

The kit came with metal posts that have a nut to fasten them to the horns, the connecting wire is very thin and flexes with servo movement. The wire is held in place with a small screw. The post does not rotate when the horn is turned ,because of the fixed mounting. I have always used clevises in the past , and really do not care for the post design.
Would it be O.K. to change over to a system with a soldered clevis on one end and an adjustable 2-56 clevis on the other end ? It would weigh a little more , but I don't trust the post design.

Thanks, Bill
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Old 02-27-2011, 03:42 PM   #2
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Servos will sometimes make noise if there is friction in the control rod or surfaces. It is definitely okay to improve the control rod arrangement if you find it lacking. What kit is that?
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Old 02-27-2011, 05:36 PM   #3
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Default servo noise and control pushrods

Hi,
The plane is called katana and was bought from value hobby.

Bill
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Old 02-27-2011, 06:04 PM   #4
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I don't like those post ones either if you use them and dont swap them out make sure there is a little play so the post can turn in the hole. Then use a tiny bit of the blue locktite to keep that nut from vibrateing loose. I lost one on a twinstar lucky for me I did a pre flight check saved me form a crash I had one nut in my flight box sometimes I get lucky.
I have some HXT 9 gram servos and I get the same thing till I jiggle the stick and it goes away. Sounds like the aileron ones might not be good if they don't want to return to center might won't to swap them out be a pain to fly the plane when they dont want to return to center.
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Old 02-27-2011, 06:24 PM   #5
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Nice looking plane. You will want to beef up that motor mount as well if you have not done so already. My son has the Edge 540 and we went to California for a show when several guys asked him if his motor mount had broken yet. We said no. They claimed everyone they knew who had this series of planes had the mount break and guess what. When we got home his motor mount was broken.

Great flying plane my son loves his and has been flying it over a year, they just need the motor mount strengthened.

Mike

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Old 02-27-2011, 07:04 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by racquethand View Post
Hi,
Just built a katana 49" wingspan and some of the new servo's make noise when at idle. If you work the controls the noise sometimes stops. Also the airlerons don't always stop at the same neutral place.

The kit came with metal posts that have a nut to fasten them to the horns, the connecting wire is very thin and flexes with servo movement. The wire is held in place with a small screw. The post does not rotate when the horn is turned ,because of the fixed mounting. I have always used clevises in the past , and really do not care for the post design.
Would it be O.K. to change over to a system with a soldered clevis on one end and an adjustable 2-56 clevis on the other end ? It would weigh a little more , but I don't trust the post design.

Thanks, Bill
Servo's can make a little noise if they have a LITTLE pressure on them. But, you're indicating that the ailerons don't always stop at the same neutral location. That, is not good, and if your model is highly acrobatic, can lead to a lot of frustration in getting the model to fly straight.

If you're referring to a post with a set screw on your servo's control arms, several club members have lost expensive models when those set screws came loose in flight.

As a bare minimum, if you use these posts, IMHO, file a very shallow groove into the push rod where the set screw will go, and install the set screw with thread locker. Or, to really fix its setting, use thin CA on that set screw. Put a drop of CA in the threads, and immediately run it tight. That will be permanent.
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Old 02-28-2011, 11:45 AM   #7
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Default servo noise and control rods

Thanks fellows, you have reinforced my thoughts on not using the posts.
I am going back to using the #2-56 threaded rod with a soldered clevis on one end and a threaded clevis on the other end. The servo's are new hd-1711mg and were also bought from value hobby. I just checked their add and saw it called for a supply voltage of 6 volts, I am using a nimh pack of 4.8 volts.
I had to modify the motor mount to fit my rimfire and also reinforced it at the same time. It is made a little on the light side to start with. When it came to balancing , in order to get the 3" from the leading edge I had to add almost 6 ounces to the nose. And also put the receiver battery all the way forward on top of the motor mount, and the 2650 lithium behind the motor mtg bulkhead.
My radio is new and is the airtronics 2.4ghz sd-5g which seems to work ok except , if I move the airlerons for a right turn they come back to neutral. If I move the stick to a left turn one airleron comes back a little low. Also the rudder seems to do the same thing.
Thanks again, Bill
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Old 02-28-2011, 05:22 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by racquethand View Post
Thanks fellows, you have reinforced my thoughts on not using the posts.
I am going back to using the #2-56 threaded rod with a soldered clevis on one end and a threaded clevis on the other end. The servo's are new hd-1711mg and were also bought from value hobby. I just checked their add and saw it called for a supply voltage of 6 volts, I am using a nimh pack of 4.8 volts.
I had to modify the motor mount to fit my rimfire and also reinforced it at the same time. It is made a little on the light side to start with. When it came to balancing , in order to get the 3" from the leading edge I had to add almost 6 ounces to the nose. And also put the receiver battery all the way forward on top of the motor mount, and the 2650 lithium behind the motor mtg bulkhead.
My radio is new and is the airtronics 2.4ghz sd-5g which seems to work ok except , if I move the airlerons for a right turn they come back to neutral. If I move the stick to a left turn one airleron comes back a little low. Also the rudder seems to do the same thing.
Thanks again, Bill
If you've got binding because of tight fitting clevis's, check out those number drill bits. Harbor Freight has them: These drills are closely spaced in diameter from 0.04 inches to 0.228 inches. They are made in China, and are not machinest quality, but for drilling plastic, aluminum or mild steel they work just fine.

http://www.harborfreight.com/60-piec...set-34627.html
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