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Old 05-12-2011, 11:15 PM   #1
rminut
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Default Sig Senorita Kit Build

Sorry I did not detail the entire build, but I enjoyed the time and effort that went into it!

Motor E-Flite Power 25
ESC 45Amp
Battery Li-Poly 3S1P 2200mah
Servos Futaba S3004

Modifications:
2 Hatches - Top cowl in front of windshield, behind the main LG
Changed to tail-dragger
Bolt on wing
CF pushrods

For the main landing gear, I added a piece of 3/16" plywood just below the location of the leading edge of the wing. I drilled this to match the holes in the aluminum landing gear that I purchased. I installed (4) 10-32 tee-nuts and fastened the gear with 10-32 nylon bolts.
For the tail wheel I used an Ohio Superstar tail wheel. I added a piece of 1/8" plywood to the rear of the fuselage at the bottom to fasten the tail wheel bracket. I added a piece of 1/8' balsa in front of that one bay long and taper sanded it to flow smoothly to the plywood.
As the rudder configuration is unique with this model I ran a second control rod from the opposite side of the rudder servo arm to the tail wheel.
I used JB Weld to fasten the 2-56 threaded rods into the end of the CF pushrods.
For the wing hold downs I glued a large piece of triangular stock at the rear of the wing opening and drilled through the trailing edge of the wing and then tapped the balsa with a 10-32 tap. At the front I put in a piece of 5/32" plywood across the cabin top piece. The wings had balsa blocks glued in to fill the space between the top sheeting and the bottom of the wing. Holes were drilled and 10-32 tee-nuts installed for the 10-32 wing hold down bolts.
Everything else was built according to the plans and no substitution of materials was made. Gluing was mostly Titebond, used CA and Epoxy (both 5 minute and 30 minute) where needed.
Covering is Ultracoat, white to cover all the wood parts and transparent yellow, red and green for the open frame work.
I was afraid of the weight as I built it and was worried how tail heavy it would be as it was designed for more weight in the nose.
The final AUW came out to be 3lbs 10oz and I only needed a 1/2 oz of weight in the nose for balance.


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Old 05-13-2011, 12:28 AM   #2
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Looks good. Could you post some close ups of the tail wheel assembly and control linkage. Thanks
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Old 05-13-2011, 03:21 AM   #3
rminut
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I will do that, it will take a day or two though
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Old 05-13-2011, 01:14 PM   #4
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I like the coloring. I bet that helps with orientation. Nice looking plane. Thanks for sharing.
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Old 05-13-2011, 02:55 PM   #5
rminut
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Here are the pictures of the tailwheel, servos and pushrods. Note how I used a coffee stirrer glued to the side to hold the long antenna of the AR600 receiver.


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Old 05-13-2011, 03:26 PM   #6
Dereck
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Good looking model, she'll be a lovely sight against a clear blue sky.

Apart from the taidragger UC CF rod control rods, she's pretty close to kit stock - not something you see all that often.

Good luck flying her.

D
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Old 05-13-2011, 04:00 PM   #7
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Thanks Thymekiller and Dereck
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Old 05-14-2011, 03:15 PM   #8
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Excellent pic of the servo box. I wondered how to attach a tail wheel.
I really like the control rods that you have used. Are those spring loaded, kinda like little shocks? Or are they simply adjustable.
Whats the brand name?
Thanks for sharing. That's a very nice plane.
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Old 05-14-2011, 04:22 PM   #9
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The push rods consist of Sullivan Aluminum Ball Connector (the Red things) 2/56 threaded rod (cut to length both ends) and CF tubing.

The 2/56 threaded rod is glued into the CF tubing using JB Weld glue, from what I have been told regular epoxy wont hold.The tailwheel pushrod has a ball connector on both ends, while the rudder and elevator have a 2/56 clevis on the control surface end.

The spring you see is just to hold the "clip" over the "ball". Here is what the manufacturer says about them:

HD Aluminum Ball Connector for throttle connections and internal servo arms. These ball joints are made of machined aluminum and provide a full range of motion, permitting off-axis operation. Unique spring loaded, steel sleeve holds plated steel ball firmly in place yet easily released for changes and final adjustment. They come in three sizes and three colors: 4-40 in blue, 2-56 in red, and 2mm in green.


They are available from Tower Hobbies and I imagine other places.
Hope this answers your question!
Roy
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Old 05-14-2011, 05:03 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by rminut View Post
Here are the pictures of the tailwheel, servos and pushrods. Note how I used a coffee stirrer glued to the side to hold the long antenna of the AR600 receiver.
Thanks for the additional photos. I have a couple of tricycle to tail dragger conversions planned and am looking for ideas.
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Old 05-14-2011, 05:36 PM   #11
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Turner,

I looked at a few different tail wheels and decided that I liked the Ohio superstar simplicity and the single metal tongue mounting. The "tiny" size I got included springs for attaching directly to the rudder, which would require some major modifications to accomplish on this model.
For the next model I will more then likely use a Sullivan as it can be set to caster.

Roy
Good luck on your build
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Old 05-14-2011, 06:09 PM   #12
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I saw the Ohio Superstars for the first time at Hodges Hobbies recently and thought they looked pretty good. I have to overcome the same problem of the H stab completely blocking the rudder. Thanks
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Old 05-14-2011, 08:24 PM   #13
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Thank you. Very informative. I had never seen one before.
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