With mine, it does not like taking off without flaps, tried it twice and it bounces around all over my concrete runway almost loosing it both times. As for my Lipo, I have it all the way back and she still is a tad nose heavy, not sure why. I'm using a 3S-2200. I do hate the 3 velcro straps as well. I also turned the motor 90º to provide better placement of the ESC on the floor next to the battery tray.
Other then the mentioned, it flys great. Landings are easier with flaps.
There's a really long thread on RCG E-Zone, Scale Electric Plane forum about this PZ Reliant. I have enjoyed flying mine for about 1.5 years on the same stock motor and props, using a 2200mah 3S 25 C lipo. After I added the flap servo, I had a brownout crash with a 2.4Ghz Hitec Optima rcvr and the stock speed control's wimpy 700mah rated switch mode BEC. I added a Park BEC from Dimension Engineering and have had no glitches since. I have really enjoyed using flaps for scale take-offs and landings, touch and goes and very slow fly byes. The model has more than enough power and duration to keep up with sport IC powered models. The aluminum landing gear is very bendy and the foam around the plastic landing gear mounts will eventually deform after hundreds of landings, causing loosening and breakage of plastic landing gear mounts and wheel pants. Wheel pants and grass do not work well together. If you use flaps, start with a modest 20-degrees down flap angle and take off at 1/2 to 2/3 throttle being ready to control pitch up with elevator. When you raise flaps be ready to add throttle and up elevator /retrim for level flight at 1/2 throttle. Experiment with throttle settings and elevator trim with and without flaps.
Any model climbs at full throttle and should be able to fly level at 1/2 throttle with elevator trim. Before lowering flaps, reduce speed to 1/2 throttle/level flight. Be ready to control pitch-up with elevator or elevator trim. Notice how nose goes up as you increase throttle and settles back down when you reduce throttle. To land reduce speed, line up with runway, drop flaps and reduce throttle to let it settle down to the runway gradually. Keep some poser on. When wheels contact runway, reduce throttle and let tail wheel settle down and as it slows down, raise elevator to keep tail wheel down and prevent nose-overs. User rudder to steer straight until it comes to a stop.
I use aileron/rudder mix most of the time to counter adverse yaw and make takeoffs and landings easier in general. The PZ Reliant is one of the easiest tail-draggers to fly. You don't need full throttle to take off. Let it rise off ground with little or no elevator control inputs. Keep climb and bank angles reasonably shallow to avoid possible tip stalls. Model is not tip stall prone. There are scads of PZ Reliant videos on You Tube. The model does nice rolls, ,multiple loops and inverted in the hands of a reasonably competant model pilot. I deserves a smooth airstrip and plenty of unobstructed room to fly. I think that the Reliant is great preparation for flying tail dragger warbirds.
Finally solo'd on the Stinson, mostly weather related setbacks. Great plane to fly, the landing gear sucks, breaks too easy going to screw a piece of flat stock to join the two landing halves together. might add a little weight but it will add a lot of rigidity.....
I have to land on rough grass and had a nose-over and broke the prop. I'd flown it @ 6 batteries before breaking the prop. but I'm sure it'll happen again.
Is a "prop saver" available for this size plane ?
Would you recommend a different size prop. for someone who likes to fly as slow as possible ?
I tried to read up on props but it isn't "sinking in".
I have found the Stinson Reliant particularly hard to fly myself. My thoughts are that it can be very 'slippery' and unpredictable.
In the end I solved the problem by installing an Eagle Tree Guardian. Even though it flies way better, it can still be a handful. My thoughts are that is probably down to the lack of dihedral. Many fliers might disagree with fitting these electronics, but if they get you in the air and make 'hard' planes easier to fly, why not?
There is a long running thread in the RC Groups Scale Electric Plane forum about the PZ Stinson Reliant. I have been flying mine for nearly two years now on the same motor, prop and 2200mah 3S lipo combination. I did have a suspected brownout/receiver reset crash just after I added the fifth servo for flaps. I added a Park BEC from Dimension Engineering and have had not further brownout crashes. I think that the 700ma rated switch mode BEC is marginal and that the 1.5amp rated BEC is good insurance, weighs nothing, costs $19 and is easy to install. My Stinson is not fussy about front to rear location of battery pack. If all the way foreward, use a little up trim on the elevator, if all the way rearward, a little down trim may be needed. If the model has the stock PZ 480 motor and typical RC gear it should not be radically nose or tail heavy unless you change something. My Stinson does all of the normal aerobatics and will also does an outside loop and fly inverted for some distance. The aluminum landing gear legs bend easily and plastic fairings need to be put back in place after hard "landings" After hundreds of landings I had to replace landing gear parts including plastic fairings and wheel spats. Not hard to do and not very expensive. Models with wheel pants do better taking off and landing on smooth surfaces. Grass must be short and evenly cut or much skill is needed for takeoffs and landings. Model must be able to gather adequate flying speed and lift off with little or no up elevator to avoid stalling. Land on main wheels at 1/4throttle like a P-51, let slow and raise elevators to keep tail down on runway to avoid tip overs and to aid steering during roll to a stop. Use nudges of right rudder to counter left yawing tendencies during take-offs as with any tail-dragger. This is an easy to fly model but you must have good tail dragger piloting technique. It is not a "teach yourself" beginner's first model that will fly hands off. BTW I use aileron/rudder mix most of the time and override it with left stick or shut it off when desired for certain kinds of maneuvers and wind conditions. Use moderate flap for takeoffs and more flap for landings, use elevator and flap trims with flaps for slow fly byes, touch and goes, takeoffs and landings.
Oops, mostly repeated same stuff in a previous post. Still flies great but looks really war weary.