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WWI Era Discuss all your favorite WWI warbirds here!

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Old 09-26-2011, 08:21 PM   #1
brutus251
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Default The best iron on covering for small BALSA planes?????

Im having a heck of a time covering the wings on my Electrifly Fokker DV11. I ran out of the covering I had which worked like a charm,it was noticeably thinner than the MonoKote I just bought which is much thicker and just wont do.The thinner brand stuck easily,stretched and shrunk easily too.The MonoKote is fine for my bigger projects but its too heavy duty for this plane.I dont remember the brand I used before,any help would be appreciated. Thanks. Brutus

"Its the exact same thing, just completly different"
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Old 09-27-2011, 02:07 AM   #2
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Did you buy it online? or at a LHS?
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Old 09-27-2011, 02:51 AM   #3
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Don't know what you were using, but Coverite Microlite has the qualities you described, plus the aggravating habit of sticking to itself while trying to apply it.

I still like the stuff, though.

David

"In theory there is no difference between theory and practice. In practice there is."

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Old 09-27-2011, 01:28 PM   #4
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The LHS, Ill give the Micro a try. Thanks guys. Brutus

"Its the exact same thing, just completly different"
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Old 10-25-2011, 09:13 PM   #5
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Did you ever try the Coverite Microlite? I've wanted to try that also, just haven't yet.

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Old 10-25-2011, 10:16 PM   #6
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I used that one time. Just had a time keeping it from sticking to its self, then while trying to unstick one place it would stick in another place. Did a good job but not worth the trouble.
Henry
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Old 10-25-2011, 10:53 PM   #7
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Used it on a Herr Cherokee. Here are some photos.
Henry


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Old 12-01-2011, 08:06 PM   #8
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Tissue & dope would be my choice for this too be honest. iron on covering doesn't add strength as much as this.
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Old 12-10-2011, 06:36 PM   #9
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For older planes and WW1 jobs - I use Solartex - a UK shrink material that has a fabric look and feel to it. Only downside is it is heavier than the gloss plastic shrink, so not really suitable for really small models.

I have to admit that a WW1 machine in glossy plastic film is not really what I like to see ...

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Old 01-03-2012, 11:37 AM   #10
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personally i would use either litespan or polyspan, both work beautifully on small models, litespan being my favourite due to not needing to be sealed but polyspan being porous works better in my opinion on covering sheeted/planked structures due to being doped down once shrunk to lock the structure together.

the pup was covered solely in litespan


the Pfalz wings and tail surfaces were covered in litespan, and the fuse being planked was covered in polyspan.


the F2b will be covered in litespan and even though nearly 70'' w/s should work out just fine.

an added feature of moth materials is that they have a surface texture, and take paint extremely well!

my 2 bits anyway
Craig
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Old 01-03-2012, 02:53 PM   #11
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Trumps-- Beautiful models. Is the F2b the Manzano Laser version?

Where can you get polyspan and lifespan? Do you use Nitrate or Butyrate dope?

I'm just getting back into balsa and I haven't used dope in at least 35 years.

I saw in Rob's Halberstadt thread you mentioned that you painted the lozenge on the Pfalz. Beautiful work.

Thanks,
Mike
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Old 01-03-2012, 03:33 PM   #12
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Thanks Mike,
i am only new at this building caper, the pup and pfalz were my first 2 builds with the F2b being number 3, and yes the F2b is the Peter Rake designed one from Manzano's. i airbrushed the lozenge, and comet motifs after a lot of mask cutting with frisket.
the litespan and polyspan are available from Peckpoymers
http://www.a2zcorp.us/store/category.asp?Cguid={FD3F1D5A-2F40-41A2-B176-4547219B3607}&Category=BuildingMaterials:Covering
i forgot to mention that while both these coverings are heat shrunk they do not have an adhesive backing and are applied to the airframe using Balsaloc which is like a whiteglue and is painted onto the airframe, let dry and the covering ironed on as per normal. the dope i use is the only one locally available and from what i can gather reading the MSDS it is a Butyrate dope.

Cheers
Craig
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