Little help please or a lot a help
Just picked up a total steal , never been flown dave platt Fw Dora D9 , 64" span .
Question one --
Thinking of a Monster Power 110 , for this plane .
Want to add retracts and flaps so I am looking at aprox 7 channels
Any suggestions on power system and battery ?
Dave , thanks for the help .
So far with the frame , including the existing Robart heavy scale wheels its at 6.4 pounds that has the servos calculated along with a radio flight pack, receiver and 4 servos. Rudder , Elvator , 2 flaps , and current set up 1-alerons (internal belcrank).
If you figure
1)1lbs to 1.5 for the retracts depending on the brand (i am going eletric )
2)monster 110 is 17 oz
3)esc =3 oz
I think i am about 9.3 ready to go with no -lipos calculated , biggest weight gain is the motor .
If I go with a 60 size or 90 size motor , obviously I will lose weight but dont know the power needed yet .
The plane was designed around a 60 to 90 2 stroke , typically = 110 or 120 4 stroke
Would love to get away with less motor =less batterys but I dont really think I have a choice and I figure the Monster 110 = a 120 4 stroke
Is the monster 110 you refer to the existing engine?
The general rule of thumb is 100 watts per pound of aircraft. However, for a fighter plane I like to have more but in reality I end up flying at less than full throttle most of the time. When I want to save myself from an unfortunate mistake or make that high speed low pass it is nice to have a little extra.
I am building a 53" Mustang right now and it is predicted to weigh about 5.5 lbs. ready to fly. It is going to have a .32 size equivalent electric motor with a 13X6.5 prop and a 3300mah 4S battery. It is 800 watts (predicted at full power) and that puts me at about 150 watts/pound. The 5.5 lbs. is the predicted all up ready to fly weight so that includes the weight of the battery pack and motor. Roughly 750 watts equals 1 horsepower.
If the original plane flew on a 1.1 motor that sounds like a lot of motor. Was it originally powered by a 1.1? I think the original design was for a .60 to .90 nitro engine. In that case you could start browsing for an equivalent electric motor. However, be aware, that size electric and the battery to support it can be pretty spendy.
After you find a .60 or .90 substitute do the math with the added weight of the battery and motor and see what the watts per pound comes out to.
There are probably many folks out there with mor experience than I have, we will see if anybody chimes in.
Thanks Dave , this is what I have and I am looking at my options ,
I have 4 new in box 5000 mah 5s 45c 5 cell 18.5 voltz
I have two 3300mah 4S 25c 4 cell 14.8 voltz
Then for my 5500 mm small planes I have about 8 2200mah 4S1P 20c 4 cell 14.8 voltz
well finally has time to get back and as little and mundane as it appears it was about 4 hours worth of work lol .
1) i need to cut a opening in the second internal fuse support to allow access for batterys to move aft and to allow the batterys to fit . Ok challenge one is that it was balsa over a thick ply former , even my dremil could not get into the slot .
I had to cut a hole and then gradually grind the openeing .
2)Challenge two was that the existing servo rails would place the servos in a position to block the batterys from sliding back .The servos had to be turned on there side .
3)Challenge three was that the original builder solder the clevises on , so if you simple try to turn them the dowels would bind .
4)so the solution was cut the original clevises off , solder on new end that would allow adjustments without binding , then add plastic tubes on the existing pushrods at all friction points .
So a night of cutting , soldering , glueing , all for what should have been drop in servos !!!
Well with the exception of a simple battery tray and reinforceing the battery /firwall box the fuse is done and will be preped for repainting .
Now onto the wing , will be cutting in flaps and retracts , yippie wonder whats in store for me
If anyone knows the proper colors of German Pilots jackets ect , appreciate the help , mine appears to be an american who has hijacked the German fighter , while interesting in the movies , not so at the flight line lol !!!
I have this exact plane built, and wanting to convert it. I never mean't it to turn into a hangar queen, but it got stored and forgotten.. Now with the electric possibilities it will be flown ! Unfortunately I butchered the top of the cowl when I installed the intended motor.. SO, I am thinking of making a two piece cowl to install the battery thru the firewall from the front !
I am real excited to see your thread on here.. possibly it will get me going on mine as well.
Unfortunately I have fixed gear, but its still great looking with the gear down.
Hey thanks for the interest I know at times its difficult for some to post comments because the kit is long gone but its great to hear questiions and comments .
Mine has fixed gear as well and I plan on adding retracts , am I asking for some major surgery ?
So far every step of the fuse has been some big time cutting but its so worth it .
I am also adding flaps , do you have flaps on yours ?
Last comment , the cowl is an easy fix , i had to patch and fill cowls many times so let me know if you need help
Well I actually went down and started making the new firewall and working on the cowl tonight.
I am going to have to do major repair on the top of the cowl, so I thought I would try to make a nice top that comes off of it.. I just couldn't stand to cut the gun section on the fuse. I am really hoping to be able to load a 6 cell 5000 from the front.. By just simply removing the top of the cowl...
The sad thing about my plane is that I got it third hand from a guy.. he had stripped the landing gear out of it.. But I was cheap and just built in fixed gear....what a mistake ! Oh well it was a lifetime ago.
I will tell you a funny story though, when I got my plane it was METALIC PURPLE MONOCOTE !! I kid you not..
Ha hahahah, I stripped it down and covered it with a fabric and painted it. I have some history all the way back to high school with art, so it was my second scaleish paint job.. and I have always been happy with it...
cool paint job !! You will notice on mine its missing the plastic parts , I bought mine built for a steal , I just ordered the plastic parts and got them from Top Flight , while not exact size its close enought .
On the cowl you can fix that . You take plastic , (thick , sand it so that CA will stick to both the plastic and inside cowl.
The most important thing is to get the initial plastic sheet to stick , you can even cut curved plastic from a coke bottle or your favorate beverage .
After glued you mix micro balloons with some 20 mins expoxy , more of the micro ballons , you fill the seem and smooth it as you go along like your are applying puddy to tile , your goal is to simply blend the seems that will eventually be sanded flat into one level surface
Hey Foodstick , great mods your making , you can post in this thread at any time you want . I dont live in any drama buddy , we all love RC and any post is a great post when you on the same subject .
I love this plane and how its turning out .
I have some major work on the wing with the retracts ect . I ordered 80 degree retracts for $69 bucks from Hobby King , there Turnegy that are relabled -RC Landers
I know the plane takes 74 degree from Spring Air but I know I can get the look from 80 degree as well .
Hobby King is so backloged I dont know when I will get my gear and batterys
On the spinner I expect it to arrive today , received notice from the post office yesterday and will pics so you can see if you like them .
The retracts ... well I expect major work lol . I bought a seafury 66" about 7 years ago , I acutually burned our my dremil cutting the rails .
My plane is as follows , remove existing gear legs , carefully open the wing and I will have to cut out the entire ply rail . The reason is that the retracts houseing will need the space that the rail play rail takes up .Now I have not even seen the inside wing , experience tells me what to expect .
Ideally if I get lucky , I can remove part of the rails and run new play wing ribs inside the cut wing rails , but i dont think that will happen .
I have a contour gauge and that will be my tool of choice to replicate new wing rails .
The CG , I will check to see if I can find any refferance in my paperwork received with my plane , however I never use stock CG anyway . I use 25% of MAC (always ) and have never had a bad maiden as a result of bad CG .
I know the plane will not need flaps , but its the voice in my head saying "you need flaps " lol , its work but I want to be more scale .
If you check out my blog on RC groups , you will see my FW190 bash 71" span , its under LDM . I added split flaps , full scrtach built interior , air powered sliding canopy , functional pilot moves with rudder , all the gear retracts , home made inner gear arms ect , lets just say I get carried away .
I wont do that with this plane because its was build so well by the original builder that its not easy to cut anything !!!
Magnets are now on the hatches , there so tight I can barely open the lid lol , the batterys will be strapped in with velcro straps to the base .
The magnets will simply allow easy access .
The biggest challenge is still the motor shaft , if I use the Kyosho spinner i will be ok , but this new medal spinner seems more appropriate to the monster 110 , if I can not find a solution then I will simply use the Kyosho .
The easy option is to attempt to change out the prop shaft with a smaller shaft that has the 4 universal screws that fit the monster 110 , or attempt to tap the monter 110 prop shaft to adapt the spinner bolt directly but that means getting a tap dead center and that will not be an easy task .
I was amazed that in all my fuel engines how small the prop shafts are , I am thing at looking in the gas engine but G26 even has a smaller shaft then the monster 110 , funny thing is even my Giant Turengy motors that are equal to 4 stroke 150 have smaller shafts then then Monster 110 , I tried switching them over but the screw holes are differant