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Old 12-31-2011, 01:25 PM   #1
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Default P-51D House of Balsa 1/10 kit Build Thread

Well, gang, I've been sitting on this kit for several years and I finally decided that it is time to brush the dust off of the wax paper and push pins.

I've only done one other kit build before and it was a much simpler design, so I will post up progress good or bad, warts and all. Please feel free to join in, give advice and ask questions. Here we go!

House of Balsa kit - Nick Ziroli design
46 1/2" wingspan
33 1/2" length
AUW in manual 38 ounces
Will probably go with a .10 size motor.



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Old 12-31-2011, 01:28 PM   #2
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Default Stage 1: Right wing.

The plans are nice and well laid out. The included Instruction Book is Fantastic. Color pictures and step by step instructions make this kit very user friendly.
Here's a couple pictures of my progress so far.


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Old 01-01-2012, 11:42 AM   #3
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Default More progress on the wings.

Got to work a bit more on the wing yesterday. Again the plans and instruction book are very thorough and anything that might be a little bit tricky has it's own special note or picture.

I love building. It is so relaxing to get all the pieces for the next steps sanded smooth , dry fitted, pinned and glued. Here are some more pictures.


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Old 01-01-2012, 11:47 AM   #4
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Default Right Wing Complete

More pics.


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Old 01-01-2012, 12:12 PM   #5
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Default Left Wing & Wing Assembly.

Even though these pictures are coming pretty fast, the build has taken me about 13 hours over three days. We just got back from celebrating New Years Eve (Happy 2012 my WattFlying Bubs!) and after I post these pictures up I am ready to start on the fuselage and body.

The left wing went together just as easy as the right. Oddly enough, I did a better job on the right one. I think it was because I didn't stop until about 0315 in the morning.

The final wing is ready for sanding, spackel, sanding and covering.
The only question in my mind so far is the airfoil. I tried to go very slow and methodical, but it just doesn't seem uniform across the leading edge.
We'll just have to wait and see how it turns out.


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Old 01-01-2012, 08:34 PM   #6
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nice build so far,keep the pictures coming ....,i built the hob v-tail bonanza and loved how nicly it went together....i over built it though with lights and mech retracts causing to much exess weight. the newer electric retracts would go nice in your build.

thanks for sharing your build with us,looks like you'll be covering in no time.

narrow is the place to land...wide is the space to crash....choose the narrow way!
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Old 01-02-2012, 11:32 AM   #7
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Default Fuselage

Thanks Stuart.

More work last night. Mostly building a box style fuselage and sheeting the top for the rounded taper. The wing joiner was a bit of a chore. But it all got sorted out.


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Old 01-02-2012, 11:41 AM   #8
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Default more Fuselage

More fuselage pictures. The instructions were good for this part, but as always dryfitting before glueing definitely helps.


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Old 01-02-2012, 11:52 AM   #9
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Default finishing up the Fuse.

and more pics...


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Old 01-03-2012, 06:39 AM   #10
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Well Hey!
I have one of those.

Maybe this will finally encourage me to fly mine. I got as close as having it at the field, only to find a horribly out of balance Goldberg snap-on spinner. That has been corrected, and about my only issue now is that it really could use a SBEC. It's an old geared cobalt brushed setup, and will draw power. I have no clue what the BEC rating is in the high amp brushed ESC, and even a 3A linear BEC would be questionable.

This kit builds well, fast and easily. It seems you've probably already determined that. It was one of my first kits, and still hanging like new, along with 1/4" of dust.


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Old 01-04-2012, 08:00 PM   #11
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Thanks for the post and pic BillG.

I am to a point where I had to quit working on the nose because I am going w/ a brushless power 15 motor. I'm not sure which brand I'm buying and their dimensions vary a lot. I don't want to fabricate the firewall without having everything on hand.

Next I'll work on the tail section and get what I can prepped for covering.


I am Not decided 100% on the .15 size motor. I am researching if I can keep it light enough to go with a 480 sized outrunner.

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Old 01-08-2012, 09:01 PM   #12
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Smile Great Weekend.

Well sportsfans. It's Sunday night so I get to post up the progress from this weekend. I only got to work on "Bear" about two 1/2 hours yesterday, but today was a different story. I got about 5 or so hours of uninterrupted work done today.

Here is where I stand: The balsa cutting and glueing is about 99% done. I have left the bottom of the nose open and one bulkhead loose until I get my motor in-hand and can do the required measurements off of the motor itself (not dimensions from the spec. sheet).

Today I was able to make the battery hatch functional and complete the horizontal stabilizer, elevator, and rudder assemblies.

I am ready to start with the covering!

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Old 01-08-2012, 09:04 PM   #13
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Default Battery hatch.

Here are the final pictures of the battery hatch. As you can see I introduced a warp into the left side/front. I thought I had her squared up as I was building, but obviously I didn't!
I think it is repairable. I might work on that during the coming weeknights.


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Old 01-08-2012, 09:24 PM   #14
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Default Tail feathers!

Well, I'm done with the front until I get my motor. So... on to the tail!
I really enjoyed the framing, cutting and building on this part. Very relaxing stuff. One piece measured and cut at a time. Then Frame it, pin it, and glue it.


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Old 01-08-2012, 09:35 PM   #15
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Default Final dryfitting and static display.

Final dryfitting and static display.


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Old 01-08-2012, 09:48 PM   #16
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That Looks very Nice, I get to do the Maiden Flight on it LOL, Take care and Have fun, Chellie


I may be getting Older, But I Refuse to grow Up I am Having to much Fun to Grow Up LOL
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Old 01-08-2012, 09:52 PM   #17
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Default I did say warts and all....

Well, here is another mistake that I made and had to cover up. I hope it doesn't have any negative affects later on.

Short story - While dryfitting the front-most bulkhead ply on the nose, I got ham-fisted and cracked/broke the side of the fuse! Aaargghh!

Well, I fixed it up as best as I could and here are some pics.

Tried it first with Medium CA, but that didn't work. Final repairs were made with 5 minute epoxy.


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Old 01-08-2012, 10:00 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by CHELLIE View Post
That Looks very Nice, I get to do the Maiden Flight on it LOL, Take care and Have fun, Chellie
Sure thing, Chellie! Two favors, though. I'm going to need round-trip airfare and you have to let me use your camera/aiming rifle!

Deal?

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Old 01-09-2012, 02:20 AM   #19
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wow! john,yourflying thru this build. hob kits look like fun to build.

i started building 4 years ago or so....the smaller kits with 35"ws are tough to keep my thumbs from crushing something during the build...lol...the repair you did is super and won't show at all.

i tend to swap out the turtle deck stringers on herr kits for something more solid. on the herr minisport the stingers were so thin that i feared covering shrinkage would crush them.

narrow is the place to land...wide is the space to crash....choose the narrow way!
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Old 01-09-2012, 09:36 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by max2112 View Post
Thanks for the post and pic BillG.

I am to a point where I had to quit working on the nose because I am going w/ a brushless power 15 motor. I'm not sure which brand I'm buying and their dimensions vary a lot. I don't want to fabricate the firewall without having everything on hand.

Next I'll work on the tail section and get what I can prepped for covering.


I am Not decided 100% on the .15 size motor. I am researching if I can keep it light enough to go with a 480 sized outrunner.
There's a lot of wing on this plane, and a favorable wing loading. Considering that people were flying the plane with geared brushed 480 long can motors, you would do fine with the 480bl. The thing that hinders weight reduction, is that the plane was designed for the heavy cells, so our lipos don't really help. I have a stack of sticky lead weights in the nose, that looks like an igloo. I haven't looked at mine lately, but if possible I would like to install an outrunner, and move the battery further forward, using the space that the gearbox now takes up.

You could always use the old school gearbox setup also. The MPJet 400 size gearbox was pretty much a direct fit, into my P51. I used a MPI 4011 cobalt, but the 400 size gearbox will almost certainly fit 28mm inrunners, which are easily as powerful as the BL15. I used to buy a few spare gears, in case I trashed one while drilling it for the larger diameter motor shafts. The tiny MPI loctite tubes that come with these boxes, are the best stuff I've ever used for locking gears.
http://www.hobby-lobby.com/gearboxes...ns_289_ctg.htm


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Old 01-10-2012, 10:16 PM   #21
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Thanks stuart. I hope to get most of the sanding done this week so I can begin with the covering this weekend.


Thanks for the picture Bill G. I realy like the looks of your model. I am still undecided what paint scheme I am going to use.

I know that it's been done many times already but I like...


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Old 01-13-2012, 03:30 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by max2112 View Post
Thanks stuart. I hope to get most of the sanding done this week so I can begin with the covering this weekend.


Thanks for the picture Bill G. I really like the looks of your model. I am still undecided what paint scheme I am going to use.

I know that it's been done many times already but I like...
Thanks. The box scheme talked me into mine. The added panel graining that they put on theirs looks excellent. Being one of my early builds, the Monokote chrome also got me up to speed quickly with iron-on covering.
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Old 01-13-2012, 09:58 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Bill G View Post
There's a lot of wing on this plane, and a favorable wing loading. Considering that people were flying the plane with geared brushed 480 long can motors, you would do fine with the 480bl. The thing that hinders weight reduction, is that the plane was designed for the heavy cells, so our lipos don't really help. I have a stack of sticky lead weights in the nose, that looks like an igloo. I haven't looked at mine lately, but if possible I would like to install an outrunner, and move the battery further forward, using the space that the gearbox now takes up.

You could always use the old school gearbox setup also. The MPJet 400 size gearbox was pretty much a direct fit, into my P51. I used a MPI 4011 cobalt, but the 400 size gearbox will almost certainly fit 28mm inrunners, which are easily as powerful as the BL15. I used to buy a few spare gears, in case I trashed one while drilling it for the larger diameter motor shafts. The tiny MPI loctite tubes that come with these boxes, are the best stuff I've ever used for locking gears.
http://www.hobby-lobby.com/gearboxes...ns_289_ctg.htm
Thanks for the motor advice Bill. I have been wondering what my AUW will be with today's technology.

I have came across a pretty good deal locally. I hope to pick a motor up tomorrow from a local fellow WattFlyer. It is smaller than a .15 (which is OK, that's WAY too much motor!) but it's a bit bigger than an outrunner 480. It's an HK 3536/1400.

I'll post up more specs and info when I get it and can do more research.

I was able to begin covering tonight. I'll post pictures up tomorrow. No promises though, the weather is looking pretty for tomorrow and we all know what that means!

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Old 01-15-2012, 12:24 PM   #24
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Default Let the covering begin!

The iron on covering I'm using is Monokote. The pictures show some good, smooth spots and more than a couple places where I have room to improve. I worked on the seperate pieces first.

Horizontal stabilizer and elevator. Rudder and vertical stab. The air inlet scoop. And one aeleron finishes out the first covering session.

I left everything at about 95%. I know that some of these wrinkles can be ironed out.


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Old 01-15-2012, 12:35 PM   #25
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Default 1st Covering Session part 2.

More pics.

and we had a break in the weather so we had a beautiful but cold morning of flying here in Kaiserslautern.


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