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|03-24-2012, 04:16 PM||#1|
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Ex UK Brit now in Latvia west coast - Ventspils
Thanked 296 Times in 292 Posts
Club: Founder Member Ventspils RC Club. Ex Waltham Chase and Meon Valley Soaring.
Modifications to stock EDF models thread
I would like to start by listing out a few mods I did to my T45 50mm. I know I've shown these in other threads - but they are a start to get others on the thread and post up their mods.
This is a common mod and involves moving the horn and control from UNDER the wing to the top. This then avoids snagging in grass etc. when belly landing.
Here is out of box servo set-up:
As can be seen the horn, rod and servo are vulnerable to grass etc. snagging on belly landings. I actually stripped one gear on one landing.
emedy is to flip the servo arm through 180 and exit the top of wing via a hole cut by soldering iron.
Move horn around to top of aileron and epoxy in place ... connect up ..
I then just for nice measure took tape and covered the servos underneath ..
I was lucky and had a runway until recently to play on, so making life easier I wanted wheels .. Hobby King have a reasonable light weight set which includes a 9gr servo for nose steering for $6. I could not resist !
The other nice feature is they are removeable to allow hand launching / belly landing saving weight.
Wing with mount areas moulded in ..
These need making slightly larger to accommodate the larger stinger plates ..
I use soldering iron for my foam work as it doesn't remove foam - it melts and forms a strong skin .. here it's rough so epoxy can get a good grip.
Mount plates glued in ..
Now the nose wheel ..
Suitable slot cut into nose and check which way round for it so servo arm on top isn't fouling cockpit tab or other ...
In place - plenty of epoxy ..
and bands to hold while setting ..
ll fitted and not too bad ...
All up weights of these :
Battery compartment :
The out of box stock model had a small area that was moulded for the lipo and wanting to increase size, runtime, C rating etc.- needed to have it enlarged.
So out with trusty soldering iron again ... and after measuring / marking out ...
fitted 1/8th light balsa floor to give a bit of strength back I could now carry a 1800 3S 25C pack ...
The beauty of this mod is that the battery needs no hold down at all - the canopy is sufficient.
Canopy hold down
Sometimes the magnets are not quite enough especially after a few mishaps where foam gets a little distorted or crushed. No matter how much you straighten - the magnets are just not holding quite as well as they used to .. or you up the battery / gear under it and you need a bit more security ...........
These little beauty's set intio the main body and the retracting pin into the canopy ensure a good latched canopy. To further ensure canopy stays put - the foam canopies often rely on a foam tab at one end. This can and often does break of after a few mishaps... Cure for that is to push a cocktail stick into the tab and cut it off flush.
Hope this post has prompted a few to add their tips / tricks / mods .. and lets be honest most of them can apply to general models as well....
- Subscribe my Youtube: "solentlifeuk"
|03-26-2012, 05:22 AM||#2|
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Sunny Florida
Thanked 150 Times in 140 Posts
Club: Badius Boys Flying Club Inc. Outlaw Flyers World Wide
Dang didn't realize how small that jet was till the shots of you holding it!
That's micro surgery! Nicely done.
Here's my latest. After a failed first attempt. (found out oil based poly and foam don't mix) Your basic everyday E-flite Super Airliner, modded into the Banana Republic Airliner.
Didn't take a lot of photos during construction but there were a few along the way.
Let's see, first off was fitting electric retracts in it. I cut a second lower hatch forward of the original in the fuse, for access. Built a mount for the retract to sit on, then to give it added strength I filled the whole area with expandable foam. Making forms for the front cooling intakes for the foam to form around.
Little work and I made the new front hatch, soon to be the gear door frame, easily installable/ removable with a pair of screws and one locating tab.
On the wing it took relocation of the original mount plates, and splitting them so I could bury the retract body into the wing. This lets the gear fold up flat against the wing. Cut outs were made for the wheels to fit up into, and additional bracing added to the wing to compensate for the foam removal.
Decided to improve on my last one by adding gear doors. Had to wet form the balsa to fit the curvature of the fuse. Once dry they were glassed on both sides to hold the shape. One servo operates the nose gear door, and one does both main gear doors. Servo module snaps doors open and slows their closing for the gear to clear.
That done I finished up the wing. All wiring was run, servos installed, and a pair of air scoops made for cooling the esc's. Bottom of the wing was then glassed, and top of the wing got paper/poly treatment.
If you look close at the photos, I had to use Christmas wrapping paper on the wing, as newspaper wasn't big enough to do each half. It worked.
On to the rest. Fuse got the same treatment, paper poly on the outside, and I ran some glass on the inside. Tail feathers all were glassed after CF rods were installed for strength.
Of course also saw the installation of the elevator/rudder/steering/nose gear door servos and control rods.
Followed by weeks of sanding, prime coats, and more sanding.
More mods followed. I decided to do it up big time. I added working NAV lamps, wing and tail strobes, beacons, landing lamps in the wings and on the nose gear, cockpit lamps, and tail emblem lamps.
Three sets of boards operate them. The landing/cockpit/emblem lamps come on automatically when the landing gear extend, and snap off when the gear retracts. The other lights are tx switch controlled. All lamps are 5mm high intensity 12 volt LED's.
With all that I figured I'd re-power her. Out came the 64mm 3 blade fans, and a set of Change Sun 70mm 10 blade units were grafted in. To make maintenance easier I made the nacelles so they could split apart and are removable. Screws hold em together and bolts/blind nuts hold em on They got a glassing job too.
I left the fan shrouds in the stock location in the nacelles, but also wanted to use the shroud lips for better performance. This meant I ended up with a 3/8" gap between em. Not a good thing. Little woodworking and I wet bent a pair of balsa strips to fit the gap, so no obstructions in the flow.
Then some fun. 8 servos, 3 electric retracts, 3 control boards, sequencer, rx, bec, two packs (one for motors, one for electronics), 2 esc's and motors, and 15 sets of lamps means a heck of a lot of wiring.
To keep it neat I ran all the wiring for the lamps in the top inside of the fuse, the servo leads went in the bottom of the fuse. Bec sits on one side behind where the motor/esc wiring runs. Rx (2.4)sits in the tail far, far away from any electronic interference. Control boards and sequencer occupy the opposite side of the fuse from the bec.
Mini pack sits up by the nose gear, and main pack also is fuse mounted on the CG point.
All wires are run in separate conduits made out of clear plastic straws, keeping it all organized, neat and out of the way of everything else.
Then it was onto the wing. I had to figure out a way to make the servo and retract connections, plus all those lamps that were on separate circuits, nor forget the esc/motors all plug in and work.
Plus I wanted a safety switch as once the wing is bolted on the main pack is not reachable.
Made my own servo extensions so I had no excess length to deal with on the wing end, built a set of servo leads from the rx to the front wing mount. There I mounted the ends on a block with each marked for what it was.
For the lamps, I dug deep into the junk drawer. And came up with a 9 pin set of plugs off an old PC. Worked perfect, soldered the lamps to the male end and mounted it in front of the retract bay. The female end got wired to leads running to the control boards in the fuse. Simple one plug in for all the lamps. Bullet connectors were used on the esc's due to the amp load, so it was a simple deal making up an arming harness that is accessible from the nose hatch, and still allows the connection between the wing and fuse.
All done, it all works as intended, and no glitches!!!
Then I had to take it all apart and out. It was paint time.
Wasted no expense there, Rustoleum rattle can paint. Yellow, red, and black. Approx 2 weeks of painting one color, drying time, laying out the next, more paint, more drying, more tape, more paint, and final drying time. Laid on the decals, little hand lettering, and she's just about ready to go.
Ended up I wasn't happy with the motors I chose, so I've got another pair coming for more power. On a side note, the new fans sound fantastic.
No normal edf whine from them, they have a turbine sound. Air rushing in and out with a slight whistle.
Pretty cool, I had drug the wife out to see it, she's used to me and my toys, and usually all I get is a roll of the eyes and a shake of the head.
Had it sitting on the floor, all the lamps going, and just as she's about to give me the look, I tap the throttle. Eyes go wide, and jaw drops!
She goes " It sounds just like being at the airport!"
Good enough for me.
When I die, I want to go like my Grandfather did, in his sleep...... Not screaming like the passengers in his plane.
|03-26-2012, 06:07 AM||#3|
Scale Nut Loves Biplanes!
Join Date: Dec 2005
Thanked 39 Times in 39 Posts
Club: Fraser Valley RC Flyers
Dynam A10 mods
My Dynam A10 has the following mods:
1: Chin gun pod hollowed out, al. tube inserted, for airflow over battery/esc.
2: Carbon fibre rod inset and epoxied across underside of hor. stab.
3: Inside of nacelles had mold bumps and flash sanded smooth, and fan blades checked and sanded for clearance.
4: Tiny gear wire hold down screws were replaced with servo mount screws, after 1st landing popped main gear leg off.
My pics were not attached due to "lack of security token" Huh?? Never had that happen before.
5: Battery pack upgraded from 3S to 4S Wild Scorpion Nano 2800/35C - very noticable increase in take off power and in-flight perfomance; larger loops, much better vertical.
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