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#1 | ||
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Shenandoah Valley Of Virginia
Posts: 340
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Club: Augusta County RC Club
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On the repairing subject--what advice would any of you experts offer in putting this wing back together? It snapped in the center---the plywood brace snapped almost clean. This was an ARF back when I built it 10 yrs ago. Epoxyed a 6" long plywood brace into each wing half and then epoxyed both wing halves together. I've got ideas in my head but I don't know the preferred way to do it. My thoughts are to possibly use some sort of carbon fiber rod (s) as a brace--drill into the existing broken plywood on both halves. After joining both halves (with carbon fiber rod), should I fiberglass the center? Life is still good! |
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#2 | ||
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2013 President of PSSF
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Lacey WA, 1 mile E of Mushroom Corner
Posts: 911
Thanked 110 Times in 107 Posts
Club: Puget Sound Silent Flyers -PSSF & Thurston County Miniature Aircraft Association - TCMAA
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If your plane had a significant amount of dihedral at that joint, you may not be able to drill in far enough to use a carbon rod.
Some times the best way is to simply cut further into the wing to give you access to both sides of the spar, and then replace the broken dihedral brace. Maybe cut most of it away, or split off the laminations to get as close to the spar as you can with out damaging it. Your plane is not too bad, I blew the wing, on a $600.00 glider a few weeks ago. I'm waiting for some carbon fiber tubes, coming from Australia, to fix a glider from Czechoslovakia, here in the US. Sorta covered the world this time. |
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Dave R, Proud PGR rider.
When you have flying skills like mine, ![]() You become a master at repair.
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#3 | ||
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: near Cortland NY
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I broke mine much worse- I epoxied the halves together and then after that cured I epoxied basswood sheets on the top and bottom. Not as pretty, I was just going for strong.
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#4 | ||
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Neenah Wisconsin
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Originally Posted by Beemerider
It's an "E/Z connector". Need to make sure that the nylon washer is fully "snapped" in place.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...hrod&search=Go
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#5 | ||
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: near Cortland NY
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Mine:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1532614 ![]() ![]() ![]() It's a little heavier post-repair but flies fine... I nailed a telephone pole with one wing and the wing held just fine, just had to repair the spot that hit. |
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#6 | ||
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Dennis V
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Wisconsin, USA
Posts: 5,692
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Originally Posted by Beemerider
IMHO, I'll never use those set screw type attachments to the servo arms. Have seen to many models go in over the years when those setscrews come loose. Especially with the glow models. Last summer, one of them was a very nice Bipe, that went in on its third flight. There was nothing left, including the DLE 30 gasser engine.
Take a look at those "Z" benders available in a lot of places as well as some well stocked hobby shops. Those Zbends absolutely can not come loose. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXXC81&P=ML (I've got the "Cheaper" unit, for $15. Been using it for 10 years.) As for your wing, you epoxied it when you built it up long ago? Nice thing about epoxy, just strip off the covering around the spar, grab a standard heat gun used for covering. Heat up the epoxy joint with the heat gun, and with a dull knife or screwdriver, gently separate the epoxy joint. Take your time, 5 or 10 minutes or so. It will work. Then when you get to enough good wood to allow building up a repair splice, just fit in the splice and epoxy it into place. FYI, this also works with various wood glues such as titebond. But, don't try it with CA joints. It doesn't work, and stinks up the house. Be sure to use plenty of ventilation if you're doing this in an enclosed area. Some 30 years ago, I repaired a busted spar in a 10 foot sailplane wing using this method. Went on to fly that model another 10 years before selling it to a club member. When you're out buying stuff, take a look at these drill bits. I've got several sets of these number drills. They REALLY come in handy when you're drilling out the servo horns and control horns for an exact fit with the carious clevises and so on. http://www.harborfreight.com/60-piec...set-34627.html These probably are not the highest quality, but they work just fine drilling out plastic, or soft metals such as aluminum and similar materials. (A higher quality set will be on the order of $100 or so.) |
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DennyV
Retired and the days are just too short, busier than ever!
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#7 | ||
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
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That dosn't look good
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#8 | ||
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Shenandoah Valley Of Virginia
Posts: 340
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Club: Augusta County RC Club
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Thanks for the replies. I have already canned those connectors on the servo arms. And my mentor has told me about using the z bends. That's the plan. I wondered if fiber-glassing the wing halves was appropriate. I know it's not as smooth in appearance as an internal brace but since it's a trainer for me and not something I'm trying to show off maybe that's a good option? Would certainly be faster I think. Oh--and this plane was an ARF 10 yrs ago, all I had to do was epoxy the wing halves together (and wing end sections) and epoxy the tail feathers on.
Another plus for me on fiber-glassing the wing....I don't have full function and use of my hands yet due to a prior illness and actually all this work does help with that but glassing the wing would be easier for me. I've a little experience with that from 20 yrs ago. Here are a couple pics of what little I've done so far. |
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#9 | ||
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Shenandoah Valley Of Virginia
Posts: 340
Thanked 7 Times in 7 Posts
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Could someone tell me how much dihedral to put back into this wing when rejoining the two halves? fwiw--there is a slight amount as well built into the outer wing panels. Never paid much attention exactly how much was there before I busted it up. No longer have any documentation either. This is a Explorer 2M sailplane.
Thanks! Wayne |
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#10 | ||
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Master Of The Crash
Join Date: Feb 2009
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I absolutely detest EZ Connectors. It only takes a little more time to fabricate a proper connection. I myself use locking clevises at each end with a locknut to prevent unwanted movement.
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