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Old 04-20-2012, 02:09 AM   #1
motor12
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Default Hangar 9 Taylorcraft maiden

Another maiden this time it's a Hangar 9 Taylorcraft with an 80 inch wing span. She flew very well with only small trim adjustments.
The motor is an E-flite power 160 with a Castle HV110 powered by 10S the prop is an APC 18x10E. the RTF weight was just under 16 lbs. I must say the Power 160 pulls this bird around the sky with no problem at all. I had my timer set at 5 min. for the maiden and the batteries were just warm and i had plenty of battery left upon landing, i have since set my timer at 6min 30sec. thanks..


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Old 04-20-2012, 05:23 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by motor12 View Post
Another maiden this time it's a Hanger 9 Taylorcraft with an 80 inch wing span. She flew very well with only small trim adjustments.
The motor is an E-flite power 160 with a Castle HV110 powered by 10S the prop is an APC 18x10E. the RTF weight was just under 16 lbs. I must say the Power 160 pulls this bird around the sky with no problem at all. I had my timer set at 5 min. for the maiden and the batteries were just warm and i had plenty of battery left upon landing, i have since set my timer at 6min 30sec. thanks..
Wow!

Very nice, and, a very nice looking model! Which batteries are you using?

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Old 04-20-2012, 04:23 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by kyleservicetech View Post
Wow!

Very nice, and, a very nice looking model! Which batteries are you using?
Thanks,I am using Blue lipo 25c 5000mAh a 6S and 4S From Hobbypartz.
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Old 04-20-2012, 05:19 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by motor12 View Post
Thanks,I am using Blue lipo 25c 5000mAh a 6S and 4S From Hobbypartz.
Good to know. Have you measured current/voltage/watts on your setup?

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Old 05-09-2012, 05:53 PM   #5
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Default Sv: Hangar 9 Taylorcraft maiden

Hi from denmark.
Im building the same model. How did you secure your batteries? Could you post pics of the battery compartment and motor mount?
Did you need to use lead to balance it?

Thanks in advance


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Old 05-09-2012, 06:43 PM   #6
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Hey Nico, you're going to love this airplane.Here are a couple of photos, one of the battery box located in the area of the fuel tank. i made the box to fit my set up 10S i use a 6s and 4s the box is installed all the way foward to the fire wall and epoxied in place. only a small amount of the fuel tank area has to be removed and thats easy to do. As for the motor box (no photo) i made one that was shorter than the supplied mount then fine tuned the distance with small spacers when mounting the motor. The power 160 is longer than the 110.As for weight i had to add approx. 3.5 OZ. to the nose .I also made the fuselage sky light removable to make it easy to change batteries, i now attach the sky light with four 6x32 cap head screws and it only takes a few seconds to remove. One other thing i did was to remove more material from the cowling to allow more air into motor and esc area for cooling, it gets hot in Texas. Good luck


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Old 05-09-2012, 07:07 PM   #7
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Default Sv: Hangar 9 Taylorcraft maiden

Thank you so much.

In my t-craft my batteries fits exactly in the forward-most compartment sideways. I constructed a fixture that in the front fits in to the hole in the firewall. In the back its held down by a velcro strap. That holds the batteries down. The batteries are two 5000 mAh 5S in parallel.
Motor is an Axi 5330/18. A motor comparable to the power 160 but with a 259kV rating. I plan on using a 19*10 prop. What prop are you using?
Im using four adjustable aluminum standoffs from Dualsky as motor mounts directly on the firewall.
ESC is a CC 110A and the ubec are fed with full voltage from the main batteries. What do you use for rx power supply?
Servos are Savox 1257tg and im using a Hitec 9 Aurora.

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Old 05-09-2012, 09:55 PM   #8
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Nico to power the servos i use an external BEC (Align) with a 2s 2200 battery.since my first post i have changed props and now use an Xoar 18x10, the servos are Hitec HS-485HB on all surfaces. I was at a local fun fly this weekend and the Taylorcraft got lots of attention, it's a very good looking aircraft on the runway and in the air... Let me know how your maiden goes.
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Old 05-10-2012, 04:08 PM   #9
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Default Sv: Hangar 9 Taylorcraft maiden

Why did you change prop from APC to Xoar?
Do you have enough power with 18 inches and what is your amp draw?
It may not be scale but my goal is at least 1:1 power to weight ratio.
What is your AUW?

Thank you for helping a fellow rc'er :-)

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Old 05-10-2012, 07:10 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by nico View Post
Why did you change prop from APC to Xoar?
Do you have enough power with 18 inches and what is your amp draw?
It may not be scale but my goal is at least 1:1 power to weight ratio.
What is your AUW?

Thank you for helping a fellow rc'er :-)

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I changed to an Xoar prop (1) its lighter (2) looks better, i really can't tell any difference when flying.As for power i am able to climb straight up and it will go beyond my ability to keep orientation so i have to get it back before its too late,in other words loads of power.I had my watt meter hooked up but it took a crap before i could get a reading , i hope to get a new meter so i can get a reading. Weight is 15 lbs plus a bit, but less than 16 lbs.
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Old 05-11-2012, 06:55 AM   #11
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Default Sv: Hangar 9 Taylorcraft maiden

:-) on a beautiful plane like the t-craft the look of the prop is important so i do understand your decision. I did have my doubts about the grey plastic APCs. I dont know if the prop should be wood or black?
If you can go straight up i guess that should be enough power. After all its not a 3D model though it might would be fun to see it hang in the prop. Maybe i should reconsider my plan of using an 19 inch. I usually tend to go for the biggest prop. Not only for power but for braking as well.
I hope i can keep the AUW under 15.4 lbs (7 kgs) because the rules change at that weight in Denmark. Above that the model has to get approved by an instructor and the pilot has to get a "drivers licence". Its not a problem as such but just another thing to do.
By the way in Denmark we have a max weight of 55 lbs for rc planes. What is the max weight in your country (if any)?

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Old 05-11-2012, 05:04 PM   #12
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Thumbs up

I got a new watt meter today and was able to get a reading.
Amps=59
Watts=2291
E-flite power160,Xoar 18x10 on 10S. Thats 147 watts per pound. also Nico keeping your weight below 15.4 lbs will be tight but i don't think you will have a problem, when i converted mine i was not to concerned with weight and 15.4 is about where i am.
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Old 05-12-2012, 12:40 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by motor12 View Post
I got a new watt meter today and was able to get a reading.
Amps=59
Watts=2291
E-flite power160,Xoar 18x10 on 10S. Thats 147 watts per pound. also Nico keeping your weight below 15.4 lbs will be tight but i don't think you will have a problem, when i converted mine i was not to concerned with weight and 15.4 is about where i am.
H'mmm
147 watts per pound on a Taylor Craft model, that should make a very scale like take off and climb out.

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Old 05-14-2012, 02:31 PM   #14
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My Taylorcraft in flight at a local fun fly.


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Old 05-14-2012, 03:07 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by motor12 View Post
My Taylorcraft in flight at a local fun fly.
Motor,

I must say, that is one nice looking airplane ! Congrats on your maiden !

-Hawk

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Old 05-29-2012, 07:36 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by kyleservicetech View Post
Wow!

Very nice, and, a very nice looking model! Which batteries are you using?
Mine will get a Hacker A60-6XS with 7s2p a123...
My former 1/4 scale Cub was too heavy with Cyclon 160 and 12s2p a123.
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Old 05-29-2012, 03:56 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by ramboman View Post
Mine will get a Hacker A60-6XS with 7s2p a123...
My former 1/4 scale Cub was too heavy with Cyclon 160 and 12s2p a123.
Keep us posted on your maiden, i'm curious about your final numbers. Weight, amps, watts and the size prop. Good luck..
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Old 05-29-2012, 05:33 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by motor12 View Post
Keep us posted on your maiden, i'm curious about your final numbers. Weight, amps, watts and the size prop. Good luck..
OK

I will install five specific features:
1. a main SPS switch from Emcotec
2. a charge connector
3. telemetry from Jeti to control battery usage
4. sbec with a123 backup
5. an additional cap on the esc to take cable length into account
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Old 05-29-2012, 11:27 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by ramboman View Post
OK

I will install five specific features:
1. a main SPS switch from Emcotec
2. a charge connector
3. telemetry from Jeti to control battery usage
4. sbec with a123 backup
5. an additional cap on the esc to take cable length into account

IMHO, always a good idea once you get past the 1500 or 2000 watt sized models.

Been there, done that, take a look:
http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=63794

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Old 05-30-2012, 05:15 AM   #20
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Cool


I know...
With the sbec set to 7V, you keep the a123 floating... never to be charged again !
I forgot a switch in the drawing.
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Old 05-30-2012, 06:42 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by ramboman View Post
I know...
With the sbec set to 7V, you keep the a123 floating... never to be charged again !
I forgot a switch in the drawing.
Yup
With the two 10 Amp silicon diodes in series with the two cell A123 battery in my drawing, that allows setting the CC sBEC to 6.5 Volts DC. This results in very little power being pulled from the A123 pack during flights.

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Old 05-30-2012, 07:11 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by kyleservicetech View Post
Yup
With the two 10 Amp silicon diodes in series with the two cell A123 battery in my drawing, that allows setting the CC sBEC to 6.5 Volts DC. This results in very little power being pulled from the A123 pack during flights.
Once upon a time, I forgot to charge a Rx pack...
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Old 05-30-2012, 09:40 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by ramboman View Post
Once upon a time, I forgot to charge a Rx pack...
LOL
Therefore, dual power supplies for the receivers in those giant scale models.

I've also got an undervoltage alarm on the receiver battery supply. If it ever drops below 6.0 Volts DC, an LED on the alarm starts flashing, indicating just how low that voltage dropped. The itty bitty microcontroller on that alarm measures the battery supply some 4000 times per second. Not bad for a one dollar microchip, plus a few other parts.

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Old 05-31-2012, 05:48 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by kyleservicetech View Post
LOL
Therefore, dual power supplies for the receivers in those giant scale models.

I've also got an undervoltage alarm on the receiver battery supply. If it ever drops below 6.0 Volts DC, an LED on the alarm starts flashing, indicating just how low that voltage dropped. The itty bitty microcontroller on that alarm measures the battery supply some 4000 times per second. Not bad for a one dollar microchip, plus a few other parts.
I use two pairs of a123 for Rx on large planes.
Discharge curve is plane with some ripple.
There is no way to check charge status with voltage.
How do you do ?
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Old 05-31-2012, 06:23 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by ramboman View Post
I use two pairs of a123 for Rx on large planes.
Discharge curve is plane with some ripple.
There is no way to check charge status with voltage.
How do you do ?
Good question.
The voltage discharge curve on these A123 cells is nearly flat, so just measuring their voltage will not display the amount of milliampere hours stored in them.

On the other hand, these A123 cells have a very efficient discharge/charge characteristic. If you discharge exactly 1000 Mah out of a pack, it will take about 1010 or 1020 Mah or so to recharge it. So IMHO, anything over 1000 Mah put back into your A123 packs after a days worth of flights is pushing it a little.

Based on that, you can top them off with an A123 charger that displays the total milliampere hours required to top off the A123 battery. And they can be topped off several times in an afternoon if desired. A club member has two 2300 A123 batteries for receiver power in a $7000 wet turbine model. He flys a maximum of four flights in one day, and has never used more than about 1100 Milliampere hours in one day. That's about 1/4 of the 2S2P A123 pack.

I NEVER use more than 50% of any receiver battery during a typical day of flying. That way, if you've been doing more acrobatics, put in an extra flight or two, you don't run the risk of running out of receiver power.

Nice thing about the A123 batteries for receiver power, you can store them 1/2 charged, fully charged, don't matter much with them. And these cells hold their charge for months.

As for my voltage alarm, that is set up to watch for any sags in receiver voltage, and it provides a warning that it has happened. After some 60 flights with it, its never gone off, even once.

My receiver battery supply consists of a 10 Ampere Castle Creations uBEC (switching power supply BEC) and a two cell 2300 Mah A123 pack with two series connected 10 amp silicon diodes in series with the battery red wire. These two diodes serve two purposes. One, to isolate the A123 pack from the CC uBEC, second to drop the A123 battery voltage below that of the CC uBEC, so the uBEC provides 98% of the energy to run the receiver and servos.

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