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Old 06-17-2012, 06:50 PM   #1
vostemister
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Exclamation Mounting a Brushless motor

Hi

I am new to flying R/C planes, I have been flying for about four months now.

Recently I have purchased a Nitro trainer from a club member.
I am in the proses of converting to electric, I have a Hobbyking ESC 40-50A with a Turnigy G25 870Kv motor.

All of that aside, I have no clue how to mount this motor to this plane. I have tried to read about the angles etc., but is so confused.
I went to a local hobby shop and purchased a "standoff" mount.

Help would be appreciated

Thanks


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Old 06-17-2012, 10:45 PM   #2
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Your thrust angles should be the roughly same as the nitro engine was, probably at 90 degrees from the firewall. Most trainer planes have the thrust angles built into the fuse.

After a few flights you may want to adjust these angles to suit your plane and motor combo.

Down-thrust is supposed to balance the ballooning from more thrust, and right thrust is to counteract any tendency to turn with added power.

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Old 06-18-2012, 03:41 AM   #3
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If you want the easy way out, I love my eflight alpha 450 sport. Its floatie, light (under 2lbs with battery) and has a 48" wingspan. Setting it next to my dad's .40 trainer, it about 5" less wingspan, and 1/3 the weight. I can also get 20-30 minutes of flight time on a 3 cell 1800mah battery.

Part of what makes the electrics perform so much better, and handle crashes better, is how much lighter they are built. The nitro's and gas planes vibrate the plane to death compared to electrics, so they are built much heavier.

If your mount or standoff is adjustable, I would mount it with 2-4 degree's down thrust, and leave the right/left angle alone, then see how you like it and go from there. Another thing to consider, gas planes are generally built with a nose gas tank, which gets lighter as the plane fly's. You could end up quite tail heavy if he plane isn't ballanced properly. I personally don't believe in adding lead to a plane, so if I'm too nose heavy/light, I'll move up or down a couple sizes in battery, or move componants around to achieve a better weight ballance, rather then add lead.
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Old 06-18-2012, 04:14 AM   #4
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That windshield is so dark. How will you see out of it?
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Old 06-19-2012, 01:45 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by vostemister View Post
Hi

I am new to flying R/C planes, I have been flying for about four months now.

Recently I have purchased a Nitro trainer from a club member.
I am in the proses of converting to electric, I have a Hobbyking ESC 40-50A with a Turnigy G25 870Kv motor.

All of that aside, I have no clue how to mount this motor to this plane. I have tried to read about the angles etc., but is so confused.
I went to a local hobby shop and purchased a "standoff" mount.

Help would be appreciated

Thanks
Hard to tell from the photo. Does that motor have an "X" shaped mounting bracket on the motors backside? If so, take a run to your local well stocked hardware store, and buy a pile of nylon spacers, perhaps 1/2 inch in diameter. These nylon spacers need to be long enough to allow the prop to clear the front of your fuselabe. Also buy some 6-32 or 8-32 screws with locking type nuts (the type with the nylon insert.) Drill the firewall holes to match the "X" backplate, and using the screws, nylon spacers and backplate, bolt everything together.

I've used this type of setup up to and including 2500 Watt Hacker motors with out any sort of problems.

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Old 06-19-2012, 02:12 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by vostemister View Post

All of that aside, I have no clue how to mount this motor to this plane. I have tried to read about the angles etc., but is so confused.
I went to a local hobby shop and purchased a "standoff" mount.

Help would be appreciated

Thanks
The proper down and right thrust was probably built into the firewall. As suggested, use nylon spacers or your "standoff" mount with no added thrust offset and set how that goes.

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Old 06-19-2012, 01:38 PM   #7
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Hi all

Thanks for all the advice, I know that will work for me.

I have mounted the motor on the standoff's, but the bolts are a little to sort to adjust the down thrust or any thrust. I am going to get some longer ones and those nylon spacers.

Am I right in saying that if I test fly the plane and the thrust setting is not right I will see it moving more to that side? Eg. If it pulls left I need to adjust more left thrust.

Thanks guys
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Old 06-19-2012, 01:58 PM   #8
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Here is some pics


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Old 06-20-2012, 01:42 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by vostemister View Post
Hi all

Thanks for all the advice, I know that will work for me.

I have mounted the motor on the standoff's, but the bolts are a little to sort to adjust the down thrust or any thrust. I am going to get some longer ones and those nylon spacers.

Am I right in saying that if I test fly the plane and the thrust setting is not right I will see it moving more to that side? Eg. If it pulls left I need to adjust more left thrust.

Thanks guys
It's just my opinion, but I've generally just set the motor to zero/zero off set. Methinks only a real pro would ever notice the difference on a faster acrobatic type model.

But perhaps the real slow flying models with flat bottom wings and such might have to have some downthrust and/or right thrust.

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Old 06-20-2012, 05:07 AM   #10
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A trainer with a high lift wing will pitch up with speed. I think this is much less critical on an electric motor though.

I trim my plane in with motor off gliding level. My alpha 450 sport pitches up with speed, even without throttle, like in a dive. I think this might be the elevator or wing incidence being a bit off though. I personallly have run 0 offset on my planes and like it that way. On my slow stick, right/left thrust made little to no differance. Down thrust made some, and up did more so. But if you know what to expect and your not doing any high speed or percision flying, I don't think it matters.
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