How to Fiberglass ?

[waterfire]

How much is involved when it comes to fiberglassing a plane instead of using the film covering? Could I do a Sig Kadet Mark II in fiberglass? I'm sure the glass is heavier, which the Mark II is already on the heavy side I've been told.

[rcers]

Glassing works only for solid wood or foam surfaces. So the Kadet is a VERY poor choice for glassing.

It does take some skill and time but once you get good at it - results can be quite stunning... It works well on all foam models too when needed. Water based poly urathane has made that process much easier too. The old resin and epoxy glassing was messy and stinky.

Stick to film on the Kadet.

Just to show you what a master builder can do with glass - look at my friend Keith's (in the pic) 757.

Mike

[Heli Jim]

The one problem that I see is that it can get really heavy.

[Beemerider]

I did some fiberglass repair once on a small project in the office I once worked out of. The resulting smell forced all the ladies in the office out into the parking lot. I will never work fiberglass indoors again!

[rcers]

Originally Posted by Heli Jim

The one problem that I see is that it can get really heavy.

Not if done properly.

[rcers]

Originally Posted by Beemerider

I did some fiberglass repair once on a small project in the office I once worked out of. The resulting smell forced all the ladies in the office out into the parking lot. I will never work fiberglass indoors again!

That is why I have switched to WPBU. No stink. It is not as hard as epoxy or other resin based but it is good enough.

Mike

[Beemerider]

I made it quickly to the top of their list. They didn't forget nor forgive for a very long time.

[earthsciteach]

RCERS - are you simply impregnating the glass cloth with the water based urethane in place of epoxy resin and hardener?

I am in the middle of a project that I intend to glass, but the cost of resin is loosing out to recent auto repair costs. I have the glass cloth, just waiting for the wallet to refill.

[rcers]

Yes I use minwax and have been very happy. Most of the water dries off so you can keep it very light.

[earthsciteach]

Do you vacuum bag it or simply lay it up? I'm hoping to stay away from bagging. Man, you may have just saved me $100!

[kyleservicetech]

Originally Posted by earthsciteach

Do you vacuum bag it or simply lay it up? I'm hoping to stay away from bagging. Man, you may have just saved me $100!

Years ago I made a number of cowls with fiberglass and balsa or foam molds. After covering the front of the model with an antistick piece of plastic kitchen wrap, the fiberglass was layed over the mold, and front of the fuse.

Then a BIG balloon was inflated and pushed over the front of the mold and fiberglass. Tape was used to prevent the balloon from coming loose. After the epoxy sets, the balloon is removed. It leaves a mirror finish.

This works very well, but is a lot of work. Nowdays, those ARF's have nice cowls included.

[rcers]

Originally Posted by earthsciteach

Do you vacuum bag it or simply lay it up? I'm hoping to stay away from bagging. Man, you may have just saved me $100!

Just lay it up.

http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/...tective-finish

[Glacier Girl]

Just remember that the poly job isn't as strong as a true glass job if you are looking for strength, but as stated it's much lighter. For most of the stuff we fly poly/glass cloth are just fine.

If you are looking for surface quality more then strength, use poly and newspaper.
Works great on bumpy foam to smooth it out. Dependent of the foam, you can go one coat poly/paper then follow with a coat of poly with talcum powder mixed in.

Makes a great fill coat and smells nice when you sand it.

I did up my liner(foamy Eflite Super Liner) like Kieth's, it got the poly glass treatment on the wings and tail feathers, the fuse got the poly paper treatment. Check out the reflection in the paint, that's just plain old Rustoleum rattle can paint.

[rcers]

Had not thought of newspaper - brilliant. You think it is stronger eh?

The other is VERY easy to dent so I suspect you are on to something brilliant and cheap...

Mike

[pmullen503]

Newsprint or kraft paper with water based poly makes an excellent covering for foam. It's more dent resistant than a similar weight of epoxy/glass in my experience. You do need "developable" surfaces as it's tougher to get it to conform to compound curves. On this model:http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62497 I covered all but the toughest curves with paper and used liquid sheeting for the curved parts.

[pd1]

I vote for the Min Wax too.
I have never used Kraft paper but I used silkspan on a GWS plane. I have also used silk instead of glass cloth.

I like the silk because it covered compound curves very easily.
Here is where I purchase silk:
http://www.dharmatrading.com/html/eng/3374-AA.shtml

I have not tested the difference in strength.
Here's a thread I did on using the silk on foam.
http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22327

[AEAJR]

Good discussion. Let's bump this back to the top for the new guys who have not seen it.

And let me add these resources:

Fiberglassing Tips
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ujk-wBQDUSk&list=UUBnIE7hx2BxjKsWmCpA-uDA&index=13

Working with fiberglass
http://www.charlesriverrc.org/articles/construction/williamson_fiberglass.htm


And, for those looking to repair hollow glass wings, this might be helpful:
I ordered the repair kit and will be using it on my Supra Pro hollow molded wing glider

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1779614