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Old 10-01-2012, 11:51 PM   #251
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Originally Posted by road king 97 View Post
Sounds like a party now all we need is someone to break open a kit box and start building . joe
I've built a couple of wooden birds, a die smooshed Skimmer and a cut-the-sticks-yourself Miss Stik Sr. Actually, I built the Miss, lost it, then built another. I also had to rebuild the front end after a less than satisfactory "landing". I've also made some succesful mods to both; so does that make me a basic or a builder?

I too have a couple of kits on the shelf, an H-L "Eastbourne" and a DynaFlight Bird of Time. However I have been out of the game for over a year (vacation), so I think I will just sit and relearn beforeI contribute any "trees" to this project.

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Old 10-02-2012, 01:48 AM   #252
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Jersey Dog
You need to reinforce the length of that door or it may worp when you lay the steel
on it -they do not put any thing inbetween the sheets of plywood in side the frame
unless you get one with structural foam in it
I tryed one for a miniture village once and it did worp from the weight of the senary
and that was made from Styrofoam and paint /glue .
It waited till I put the track down and started to ballast it and went potatochip on me !!
Just my luck in this lifetime I guess ?
George
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Old 10-02-2012, 09:20 AM   #253
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Originally Posted by pd1 View Post
Got it Paul. Thanks.

Frank

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Old 10-02-2012, 11:05 AM   #254
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Dimeflyer
Thanks for the heads up. I really won't have any idea on how to reinforce the door. Beaing that i'm new to all this. Well i'm going to give it a shoot and see how it goes for now.
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Old 10-02-2012, 08:32 PM   #255
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Jersey Dog
Try adding a fering strip or 1"X4" on the two long sides of the door and two 2"X4"
under the bottom spaced about 6 inches in from the sides and a spacer every 12" to 16 "from the ends of the 2x4 s so you can make the bench type table out of the building board so it is stand alone type -that is the best way to make it strong enough so it will not bend in the middle , just make sure you put the 2x4s on thier 2"
sides when you do them
That is thier best strength in the length of the grain !!
also you can use the 1"x4" strips to make the parts between the 2"X4"s
and put your legs on the 2x4 part of the frame and gussets of ply or 1x4 on the legs to the 2x4 to keep it from being wobbly- OH yes you can use 2"X2"s for legs
that is the easest way I have found to make a bench !
If I had a cad program I would send you a digram of what I am trying to explain ?
You could find a book on the frame work they use for model railroads that would show you how to built light but strong suports for things !!
They use what they call open frame work made from 1X4 lumber for the frame work under the trackage and scenary all you would need to do would be put your door and board on that to build on !!
George
P.S. I have built a lot of that type of frame work for modeling in the past and it is very strong and light at the same time guy !!
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Old 10-03-2012, 12:26 AM   #256
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Dimeflyer
What about if i keep the door on a table all the time? I also have a couple of 1x2 studs maybe i'll build some type of support with them.
http://www.bjs.com/alera-resin-30-x-....204079?dimId=
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Old 10-03-2012, 02:37 PM   #257
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That may still give you a curve after a short time so keep an eye on it to make sure it stays level and straight guy
George
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Old 10-03-2012, 02:55 PM   #258
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I dont think the door is going to warp that much to make your steel plate go nuts if you keep a eye one it. Try not to have a bunch of moisture around where your table is and you shoud be fine. You can have the flatest table in the world and still get twists and warps in wings and the fuse or when covering it. I was a trim carpenter for 30 years and most of the hollow core doors that warped were from the painters not sealing the bottom and the tops of them with paint or clear when the painted or stained them. The lumber companys wont even replace them if they were not sealed right. joe
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Old 10-03-2012, 10:06 PM   #259
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R.K.97
I worked as a framing carpender and worked for the schools in our county here
for at least 40 some odd years -believe me when I say I have seen every type of material they used in that time for tables and work benches and ply wood or steel
are the only things that do not bend easy when they are thick enough to be stable
and have the right frame and braceing under them guy .
I am no were near an expert on any subject but I have seen people lose projects
of all kinds due to trusting a table to sapport thier stuff and found it worped
in the next day because the table sagged in the middle from the weight placed on it !
I have been a victim of being dumb enough to trust one to try making . amo on a table when I was young and found out the hard way to never trust a table for
any thing but eating of it !!
Just my experiences with them guys including hollow doors and composit tables .
OK I will get of my soap box and shut up !
George
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Old 10-03-2012, 10:38 PM   #260
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Originally Posted by Dimeflyer View Post
R.K.97
I worked as a framing carpender and worked for the schools in our county here
for at least 40 some odd years -believe me when I say I have seen every type of material they used in that time for tables and work benches and ply wood or steel
are the only things that do not bend easy when they are thick enough to be stable
and have the right frame and braceing under them guy .
I am no were near an expert on any subject but I have seen people lose projects
of all kinds due to trusting a table to sapport thier stuff and found it worped
in the next day because the table sagged in the middle from the weight placed on it !
I have been a victim of being dumb enough to trust one to try making . amo on a table when I was young and found out the hard way to never trust a table for
any thing but eating of it !!
Just my experiences with them guys including hollow doors and composit tables .
OK I will get of my soap box and shut up !
George
You are right about the door needing to be supported under the middle and ends it will sag if weight like a metal slab is put on it. Putting the table in a moist area is no good either . I built my under table out of micro lambs cut to the size of 2x6 ,i also sealed my cuts so it wont wick in water from the air. That was 15 years ago and its still straight and level but if i ever sell my house its staying here because of its weight. joe
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Old 10-04-2012, 05:54 PM   #261
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The weight is the bigest problem if you might want to move it you need to accommodate casters or a set of wheels of some kind .
All of my woodworking tools in the garrage are on casters or trollies of some kind ,
not just for space saveing but so I will be able to move them to load into a moveing van when or if I leave here !
the best casters are the steel type and you need one pair swivel and one fixed for heavey loads .
If you put both ends on swivel casters they will fight each other if thier is any
uneven spots or slopes in the flooring under them !!
like I said try finding a book that shows you how to make the open frame suports
for model RRs , but use 2"X4"s or 2"X6"s for realy heavey things instead of ferring
strips or 1"X4"s and 2"X2" for legs !
George
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Old 10-06-2012, 03:46 PM   #262
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Okay Frank, finally decided, or I should say the boss did. She decided that I should do a Martin B-10 from the plans I have. Got some work done and some pics taken. Do I get a number assigned to me for a build thread, or do I get to pick one??

Oh yeah, I'm thinking I'm at the builder skill level.

Cheesy poofs are what Yankees get when they eat Southen Food!! bub, steve
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Old 10-06-2012, 04:15 PM   #263
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Originally Posted by Dimeflyer View Post
The weight is the bigest problem if you might want to move it you need to accommodate casters or a set of wheels of some kind .
All of my woodworking tools in the garrage are on casters or trollies of some kind ,
not just for space saveing but so I will be able to move them to load into a moveing van when or if I leave here !
the best casters are the steel type and you need one pair swivel and one fixed for heavey loads .
If you put both ends on swivel casters they will fight each other if thier is any
uneven spots or slopes in the flooring under them !!
like I said try finding a book that shows you how to make the open frame suports
for model RRs , but use 2"X4"s or 2"X6"s for realy heavey things instead of ferring
strips or 1"X4"s and 2"X2" for legs !
George
I have another boxy type table about 4ft by 3ft on wheels i can lock the wheels down when i roll it where i want to. Most times its in the middle of my shop so i can put the wings on my planes and hook up stuff and still walk around it. I also can put a foam matt on it for building foam planes or covering my balsa ones so i don't put new dings and dents in it after i spent many hours sanding it smooth. I have shelves underneeth on one side for some of my bigger tools that i dont use often. I also put a lip around the top so my new plane don't roll off or me bump it off. lol Its hard to put your new plane all together on a work bench thats against the wall or test fit your wing while checking the fit. joe
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Old 10-06-2012, 05:52 PM   #264
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That will work if your wings and fuse. will fit on the top !
You may need to remove one of the top rails so things lay flat but are a little to long to fit between them ?
If you have the wood to make the top even with the rails it might be better to make a filler sheet for in between them ?
Hope it all works out for you !
George
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Old 10-06-2012, 06:27 PM   #265
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Originally Posted by Dimeflyer View Post
That will work if your wings and fuse. will fit on the top !
You may need to remove one of the top rails so things lay flat but are a little to long to fit between them ?
If you have the wood to make the top even with the rails it might be better to make a filler sheet for in between them ?
Hope it all works out for you !
George
Ha Ha the foam fills inbetween the rails and it works fine for me.This was 100 inch wing span and the fuse 6 ft long and i was able to put it on my tables with no problem. joe


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Old 10-06-2012, 10:03 PM   #266
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That is great news Joe !!!!!
then you should be in good shape to do your projects !!
My bench is 30"X62"X32"so I do not have to many problems with wings or fuse.s and
it hase an shelf under it and I have a large shelveing rack along one wall + two areas over the stairwell in the same room that I put doors over to store stuff the only thing that takes up a lot of room is a light table for traceing plans to make parts and doing reverse wing and stab
plans when the original plane only has 1/2 the frame shown on the plan !
It is also 30"X60"X26" so my10'X9' room is kinda crouded OH yes there is an small band saw on an 24"x24" stand in there also !
So between aircraft stuff I also some times do N scale model RR villages so I have a ton of
stuff for that on the shelves !
I think I need to quit on or the other of those hobbies ?
George
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Old 10-07-2012, 06:10 AM   #267
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I am hoping to start building in a day or so. Just finishing make a little 22 sq ft closet into my building room. Better keep the door open if i get the air brush going.
Steve
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Old 10-07-2012, 12:43 PM   #268
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http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=68244

Okay Frank. Got mine going...........finally.

Hope you don't mind the choice of the number too much. Figured 1007 (todays date) would be high enough not to interfere with any of the other build numbers.

Cheesy poofs are what Yankees get when they eat Southen Food!! bub, steve
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Old 10-07-2012, 10:14 PM   #269
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Originally Posted by RCTOYS4ALL View Post
I am hoping to start building in a day or so. Just finishing make a little 22 sq ft closet into my building room. Better keep the door open if i get the air brush going.
Steve
It sounds like no silk and dope work for you then. joe
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Old 10-07-2012, 11:41 PM   #270
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Be carefull guy we don't want to lose you !
You build good planes and thats like lerts we need more of them !!
George
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Old 10-08-2012, 03:53 AM   #271
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Started aero star 40 around noon can't believe how fast a build it is. All i have left are the wing and the airframe is done.

Steve
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Old 10-08-2012, 04:24 AM   #272
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Well I had a very productive weekend. I was able to add 2 coats of primer to my sheet of metal. I think I might just add another coat next week if the weather is good. I had to cut it short because of the rain. I was able to make my first jig for cutting the fixtures. It took me forever but finally got it right. I was able to cut about 50 1 1/2" fixtures. I was making a delivery on Friday and the company specializes in small boxes for cheese. The wood they use is 1/8" ply which after making all their cuts, small pieces are left over of an average 7"x6". These left over pieces end up in the garbage and I did a little dumpster diving and was able salvage about 200 pcs. I'll be going back to that place for more wood on a daily basis to see what other goodies are in the dumpster.


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Old 10-08-2012, 07:22 AM   #273
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Originally Posted by offtom View Post
http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=68244

Okay Frank. Got mine going...........finally.

Hope you don't mind the choice of the number too much. Figured 1007 (todays date) would be high enough not to interfere with any of the other build numbers.
Got it Tom. Thanks!

Frank

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Old 10-08-2012, 05:35 PM   #274
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Air brush will by in garage . The ca and kicker is bad enough.
Steve
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Old 10-09-2012, 12:38 AM   #275
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Wow some guys have all the luck , it's amazing what you can find in the trash any more !!
George
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